Devin's 06 LS - Round 2
- Thread starter DeviLSh
- Start date
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
You have given me a lot to think about and even a boost in motivation here. The board setup is next level. Looking at a lot of custom builds on grassroots forum (might even start by posting a thread there)
I agree - if using the stock ECM I will need to make bandaids no doubt. If I can live with that work and do it safely, I may stay the course. Knowing what is critical and what is not is probably a good first step.
I agree - if using the stock ECM I will need to make bandaids no doubt. If I can live with that work and do it safely, I may stay the course. Knowing what is critical and what is not is probably a good first step.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It should not.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Update - I have thinned a great deal out of the chassis & dash harness and reinstalled it into the car. Total savings blew me away - 41lbs! It was a huge project unraveling the entire harness, labeling all connectors and pins, and trimming & untangling But totally worth it both in weight and simplification.
The car started up and had no issues other than a solid airbag light (no chime). I was able to entirely remove the wiring that runs down the driver side of the car, and the only things I had to re-route from that path was the shifter and YAW wiring, which I simply ran from the dash down the tunnel. I also re-routed the large power feed from rear fusebox to the driver kick panel area across the front of the firewall, vs around the trunk and down the driver side like stock. (this took out about 5ft of that 4GA cable).
Here is a basic breakdown of what is left by section of the car:
Rear - Trunk Harness (plate and reverse lights), Tail lights, REM
Mid-Rear - Fuel Pump, Rear Wheel Speed, 3rd Brake light & capacitor
Mid - YAW/Advance track, Shifter Housing
Mid-front(dash) - Message Center, FEM, Cluster, Passenger junction box, TCS switch, Headlight + Dimmer, Steering Column control, turn signal control.
Here is a basic breakdown of what came out:
All 4 door harnesses, All audio/nav/video/antenna, Elec Parking Brake module/switch/motor, Rear Park Assist, HVAC, Headliner/Roof harness, Defroster, Airbag wiring, all interior dome lighting functions, trunk & fuel poppers, power pedal wiring, seat harness wiring, seat belt wiring, excess power wiring and grounds, any associated fuses, relays, and power distribution. (joint connectors and merge points simplified).
I am now focused on testing circuits and functionality, and then cleaning up the wiring by looming & sleeving it. Next will be to break down the engine bay/front exterior harness, but there is less to gain there so I am not in a rush to do that. Maybe if/when the motor ever comes out that will give me cause to relocate the engine bay fuse box, and simplify the front end. I now have a ton of room behind the dash to house and simplify the design.
Looking into deleting the following still:
1 - ABS if I can get the ECU/Trans and speedo to stay happy. Ideally the function of ABS and solenoids will go away, allowing me to simply the line routing but retain speedo functionality
2 - Steering column motors. Looking into getting a custom light weight column with manual telescoping and a hub for after market wheel. The stock column weighs almost 20lbs and I dont think I have ever hit the switch. S197 could work maybe but I need something that will allow me to hook up to the LS intermediate shaft, and be strong enough for a manual R&P conversion I have planned.
3 - YAW sensor and TCS switch. I turn off TCS every time i start the car, not sure if just cutting these out will effect ABS/drivability. I suppose I could unplug and test drive.
4 - Wiper wiring, A/C, Power Steering, Washer Fluid, Fog lights, and assocaited power feeds that go to the front fuse box for things deleted.
5 - Custom switch panel exterior lights, message center, and turn signals. Wondering if I can bypass the dimmer switch and just keep cluster at 100% brightness
The car started up and had no issues other than a solid airbag light (no chime). I was able to entirely remove the wiring that runs down the driver side of the car, and the only things I had to re-route from that path was the shifter and YAW wiring, which I simply ran from the dash down the tunnel. I also re-routed the large power feed from rear fusebox to the driver kick panel area across the front of the firewall, vs around the trunk and down the driver side like stock. (this took out about 5ft of that 4GA cable).
Here is a basic breakdown of what is left by section of the car:
Rear - Trunk Harness (plate and reverse lights), Tail lights, REM
Mid-Rear - Fuel Pump, Rear Wheel Speed, 3rd Brake light & capacitor
Mid - YAW/Advance track, Shifter Housing
Mid-front(dash) - Message Center, FEM, Cluster, Passenger junction box, TCS switch, Headlight + Dimmer, Steering Column control, turn signal control.
Here is a basic breakdown of what came out:
All 4 door harnesses, All audio/nav/video/antenna, Elec Parking Brake module/switch/motor, Rear Park Assist, HVAC, Headliner/Roof harness, Defroster, Airbag wiring, all interior dome lighting functions, trunk & fuel poppers, power pedal wiring, seat harness wiring, seat belt wiring, excess power wiring and grounds, any associated fuses, relays, and power distribution. (joint connectors and merge points simplified).
I am now focused on testing circuits and functionality, and then cleaning up the wiring by looming & sleeving it. Next will be to break down the engine bay/front exterior harness, but there is less to gain there so I am not in a rush to do that. Maybe if/when the motor ever comes out that will give me cause to relocate the engine bay fuse box, and simplify the front end. I now have a ton of room behind the dash to house and simplify the design.
Looking into deleting the following still:
1 - ABS if I can get the ECU/Trans and speedo to stay happy. Ideally the function of ABS and solenoids will go away, allowing me to simply the line routing but retain speedo functionality
2 - Steering column motors. Looking into getting a custom light weight column with manual telescoping and a hub for after market wheel. The stock column weighs almost 20lbs and I dont think I have ever hit the switch. S197 could work maybe but I need something that will allow me to hook up to the LS intermediate shaft, and be strong enough for a manual R&P conversion I have planned.
3 - YAW sensor and TCS switch. I turn off TCS every time i start the car, not sure if just cutting these out will effect ABS/drivability. I suppose I could unplug and test drive.
4 - Wiper wiring, A/C, Power Steering, Washer Fluid, Fog lights, and assocaited power feeds that go to the front fuse box for things deleted.
5 - Custom switch panel exterior lights, message center, and turn signals. Wondering if I can bypass the dimmer switch and just keep cluster at 100% brightness
Nice! I figured you'd be able to remove alotta that "creature comfort" stuff. I figured there was about 50-60 lbs worth of wiring in an LS. I was just guessing & half-joking, but nice to know how close I was. Lol
I'm wondering if you might need a few resistors for some of that stuff to make the lights go out. As far as the deletes go, you could always remove the fuses & see what happens. Also, just because there's no light doesn't mean there's no code being saved somewhere. Might be helpful to check what might trigger a limp-mode response so there's no surprises
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Yeah I bet once you look into the engine harness, there is more weight to lose, but close to 50-60 pounds total i bet is a safe estimate now. You are a good estimator!
I agree on testing beyond the MIL (or lack of). So I want to drive the car for a bit to keep things isolated. The car started and shifter through all gears, but I havent driven it yet. Still snow and freezing here so not gonna risk that.
I agree on testing beyond the MIL (or lack of). So I want to drive the car for a bit to keep things isolated. The car started and shifter through all gears, but I havent driven it yet. Still snow and freezing here so not gonna risk that.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Things are happening over here! Trying to get some things done before the little one comes along, so really making the most of the WFH/Pre-Parenting life, so that I can have an LS to drive for some driver's therapy when things get hectic!
Update #1 - Conversion to manual steering
Bought a spare/used rack from another '06. Broke it down, and cut out the main seal shaft. Cleaned & Re-greased all parts to reassemble. Just need to make some block-off's for the hydraulic ports (now unused) and replace the lower bushings while its out and on the bench. Never taken a rack apart before, this was a lot of fun. Copying what a lot of miata's do to de-power their rack. We will see how hard it is to drive like this before I look into alternative solutions (EPAS, column motor, custom rack, etc). With the LS being uncommon and rare, all options are custom so I am starting with de-powering the OEM rack and will go from there
On the other side of this system, is the issue of what to do with the pump. The stock mounting position doesn't allow for a simple delete & shorter belt setup. So I needed to find an idler delete solution. The LS pump and pulley are really only shared in the DEW98 family. After hours of cross-referencing and searching, I had no confidence in an off the shelf option. So - using another spare pump from a local part-out, I sent the pump and pulley to a fabricator I know, and he made for me a custom pump base, and custom idler pulley to mimic the stock pump and allow me to run the stock belt/layout. Also has a serviceable bearing for maintenance. This should allow me to gain a minor amount of power from no longer driving a pump, and give me more direct feedback in the steering.
Update #2 - Fuel Rails Aesthetic and Simplification
The same fabricator who made the pump-delete, also modified a set of oem LS fuel rails for me. I wanted to get rid of the OEM feed fitting on the driver side, along with the OEM crossover line to feed the passenger rail. Both of these things get in the way and add clutter. So These ports were removed and plugged, and a steel -6AN male fitting was added to each rail, before getting coated for a clean look. This will allow me to run custom fuel hose around the rear of the manifold. Making for a much cleaner look in the bay, and allowing me to service one side only. Vibrant also offers a OEM style 3/8" collared adapter fitting to convert to AN style. This attaches directly to the stock fuel filter outlet. I will likely run push-loc style hose or SS braided line (I need to double check pressure and length limitations of this) all the way to the driver's rail, and then Tee from there to feed the passenger rail. CLEAN!
Update #3 - Custom BBK preview
VERY EXCITED FOR THIS! Years ago, a member on here had a custom wilwood setup made for his LS. It was a F&R kit using 4piston calipers and custom brackets, 2pc rotors, and hardware/hoses. After realizing his vendor was TCE out of Arizona, a company I was already looking at for my MKZ daily brake upgrade, I gave them a call and ended up moving forward on a kit for the front of my LS. I explained to him that I was looking to keep the performance of my Jag STR 14" kit, but get closer to stock weight and expand pad options, improve looks, etc. I added almost 27lbs per corner with the JAG setup, and while the performance is incredible, the looks and unsprung weight gain were always bothering me. Plus - who doesn't like a nice BBK?! I am expecting rotor rings soon, and will likely install these in a month or too when I can drive the car and get them properly bled/bedded. But here is the basic breakdown.
Wilwood 6piston black calipers (FNSL6 - only 6lbs each!!!)
2pc rotors, 14 x 1.10", slotted. Machined Center hats for LS
Custom L&R brackets for LS knuckles, and radial mount calipers
SS hoses, and hardware
Will get final specs up once I have everything in and put together. I will be selling the Jag setup after these are on so keep an eye out if interested.
Update #4 - Front End Work
In March 2016 - I sourced an unpainted Mcalren Grill. Literally have been sitting on it since. So decided it was time to get that painted. Body shop starts on this next week, along with repairing my front bumper. I have license plate bolt holes to fill and some scuffs/scrapes to address. I am doing gloss black for the center of the mclaren, and lower grille. I am also having the chrome trim done in gloss black. Cannot wait to see this car without the plate holes and the new grill setup. No pics of this yet, but will upload when its back and together.
Taking this time with the front end apart to polish the headlights and foglights as well.
Update #1 - Conversion to manual steering
Bought a spare/used rack from another '06. Broke it down, and cut out the main seal shaft. Cleaned & Re-greased all parts to reassemble. Just need to make some block-off's for the hydraulic ports (now unused) and replace the lower bushings while its out and on the bench. Never taken a rack apart before, this was a lot of fun. Copying what a lot of miata's do to de-power their rack. We will see how hard it is to drive like this before I look into alternative solutions (EPAS, column motor, custom rack, etc). With the LS being uncommon and rare, all options are custom so I am starting with de-powering the OEM rack and will go from there
On the other side of this system, is the issue of what to do with the pump. The stock mounting position doesn't allow for a simple delete & shorter belt setup. So I needed to find an idler delete solution. The LS pump and pulley are really only shared in the DEW98 family. After hours of cross-referencing and searching, I had no confidence in an off the shelf option. So - using another spare pump from a local part-out, I sent the pump and pulley to a fabricator I know, and he made for me a custom pump base, and custom idler pulley to mimic the stock pump and allow me to run the stock belt/layout. Also has a serviceable bearing for maintenance. This should allow me to gain a minor amount of power from no longer driving a pump, and give me more direct feedback in the steering.
Update #2 - Fuel Rails Aesthetic and Simplification
The same fabricator who made the pump-delete, also modified a set of oem LS fuel rails for me. I wanted to get rid of the OEM feed fitting on the driver side, along with the OEM crossover line to feed the passenger rail. Both of these things get in the way and add clutter. So These ports were removed and plugged, and a steel -6AN male fitting was added to each rail, before getting coated for a clean look. This will allow me to run custom fuel hose around the rear of the manifold. Making for a much cleaner look in the bay, and allowing me to service one side only. Vibrant also offers a OEM style 3/8" collared adapter fitting to convert to AN style. This attaches directly to the stock fuel filter outlet. I will likely run push-loc style hose or SS braided line (I need to double check pressure and length limitations of this) all the way to the driver's rail, and then Tee from there to feed the passenger rail. CLEAN!
Update #3 - Custom BBK preview
VERY EXCITED FOR THIS! Years ago, a member on here had a custom wilwood setup made for his LS. It was a F&R kit using 4piston calipers and custom brackets, 2pc rotors, and hardware/hoses. After realizing his vendor was TCE out of Arizona, a company I was already looking at for my MKZ daily brake upgrade, I gave them a call and ended up moving forward on a kit for the front of my LS. I explained to him that I was looking to keep the performance of my Jag STR 14" kit, but get closer to stock weight and expand pad options, improve looks, etc. I added almost 27lbs per corner with the JAG setup, and while the performance is incredible, the looks and unsprung weight gain were always bothering me. Plus - who doesn't like a nice BBK?! I am expecting rotor rings soon, and will likely install these in a month or too when I can drive the car and get them properly bled/bedded. But here is the basic breakdown.
Wilwood 6piston black calipers (FNSL6 - only 6lbs each!!!)
2pc rotors, 14 x 1.10", slotted. Machined Center hats for LS
Custom L&R brackets for LS knuckles, and radial mount calipers
SS hoses, and hardware
Will get final specs up once I have everything in and put together. I will be selling the Jag setup after these are on so keep an eye out if interested.
Update #4 - Front End Work
In March 2016 - I sourced an unpainted Mcalren Grill. Literally have been sitting on it since. So decided it was time to get that painted. Body shop starts on this next week, along with repairing my front bumper. I have license plate bolt holes to fill and some scuffs/scrapes to address. I am doing gloss black for the center of the mclaren, and lower grille. I am also having the chrome trim done in gloss black. Cannot wait to see this car without the plate holes and the new grill setup. No pics of this yet, but will upload when its back and together.
Taking this time with the front end apart to polish the headlights and foglights as well.
Any idea if the gears in the rack are interchanged with anything else? Might be fun to up the ratio lock-to-lock, if that's even possible. In the meantime, you could try pulling the fuse/module for the power steering to get an idea of what to expect
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
no idea so far, i briefly glanced at the STR specs and all I could find for ratio was "Variable:1". Did some more light research today on other jags and the racks do all look similar, so it might be something to look into.
In terms of fuse pulling, are you referring to the VAPS valve? That's all I know of on the car that would affect the system. I wonder if de-powered, what it defaults to.. More or less assistance
In terms of fuse pulling, are you referring to the VAPS valve? That's all I know of on the car that would affect the system. I wonder if de-powered, what it defaults to.. More or less assistance
Over on the Jag forums there was a thread on the racks & it was discovered that all the racks used on the DEW98-based cars (including the 5.0L V8's) were interchangeable with each other, like the sway bars, & other suspension parts. The fastest rack was the one used on the XKR-S GT...which is the same as the F-Type R. It's 14.6:1 ratio, which is pretty quick. Downside is it ain't the cheapest mod, but according to the one guy that's done the swap the difference is substantial
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
preview! Got the bumper and grill back yesterday, did a quick mock up. Currently battling some headlight lense restoration woes, and ordered new fog lights to keep everything fresh up front But am very happy with the look of the de-chrome lower lip and gloss black centers. I have had the license plate bracket holes for so long that it looks like a new car to me now!
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Was really nice out yesterday, so I took the LS out for a quick drive. I was able to improve the tracking of the car by manually adjusting toe. But I need to get this car on a rack for a proper alignment. I am still chasing my driveline vibration that begins around 68mph and unfortunately its still there. Car is very smooth at all other speeds and surprisingly quiet for a car that is completely gutted. Anyway, it still looks great - and with the new front end its looking near perfect for me.
And one of the LS next to our new baby hauler
@HRLNKN I might need your assistance on sourcing some replacement rack bushings. I purchased these: UR-XR837779 and they are the same dimensions as the LS ones. But have different internal ribs vs the LS and I am having a hard time getting them into the rack without the outer flanges rolling over. Tried a variety of lubing/bolt & cup, bearing press tooling and it just doesn't wanna go in smooth. I am trying to find a set of universal POLY bushings with a center sleeve that I can just install from both sides and gain the benefit of the stiffer material. But so far, I cannot locate anything that matches the correct size. Wondering if you have come across anything on the Jag sites that talk about replacing these with an upgrade. (Maybe delrin?) All I can find is XJ6 kits.
And one of the LS next to our new baby hauler
@HRLNKN I might need your assistance on sourcing some replacement rack bushings. I purchased these: UR-XR837779 and they are the same dimensions as the LS ones. But have different internal ribs vs the LS and I am having a hard time getting them into the rack without the outer flanges rolling over. Tried a variety of lubing/bolt & cup, bearing press tooling and it just doesn't wanna go in smooth. I am trying to find a set of universal POLY bushings with a center sleeve that I can just install from both sides and gain the benefit of the stiffer material. But so far, I cannot locate anything that matches the correct size. Wondering if you have come across anything on the Jag sites that talk about replacing these with an upgrade. (Maybe delrin?) All I can find is XJ6 kits.
LSontheloose
New LVC Member
An alternate way to rout the accessory belt may be to go straight up from the crankshaft on right side, over the water pump, over the alternator, over the idler(and now a possibly tensioner) pulley and then down to the bottom of crankshaft on left side of pulley. Find/make a tensioner pulley with a slotted hole or a cam type setup or an offset hole. Ditch the stock tensioner( install a shorter bolt) and your PS idler pulley. With the limited amount of driving you do you could probably adjust the belt manually once a year.
Could you please post the part number or a model year for the stypeR rear diff bushings that you used. Thanks.
I would also suggest that you get another (or three) driver side outside door pull and check if it fits on the passenger side and then have it re-keyed to your fit key. Beats crawling through the trunk. Do your rear doors lock?
Thanks and good luck.
Could you please post the part number or a model year for the stypeR rear diff bushings that you used. Thanks.
I would also suggest that you get another (or three) driver side outside door pull and check if it fits on the passenger side and then have it re-keyed to your fit key. Beats crawling through the trunk. Do your rear doors lock?
Thanks and good luck.
ajv8
Well-Known LVC Member
LSontheloose
New LVC Member
Thanks.
ajv8
Well-Known LVC Member
anyways about your swap plans.
the 3.9 AJ30 is a cost cut version of the 4.0 S-Type AJ28. the AJ28 ran on the PTEC (PCM150/5R55 controller) like the AJ30 but had denso VVT actuators and programming for it.
Jag bailed out and dumped as much Visteon equipment as they could, all the facelift s-types with the 4.2 have a denso pcm and accessories.
the AJ35 in the gen2 has a bunch of changes from the AJ33 (4.2) but adapted for the PTEC. morse chain, front mount throttle body and new intake bolt pattern. some bean counter finally gave the green light for VVT. converting an AJ33/41 to run on a gen2 is absolutely doable
the 3.9 AJ30 is a cost cut version of the 4.0 S-Type AJ28. the AJ28 ran on the PTEC (PCM150/5R55 controller) like the AJ30 but had denso VVT actuators and programming for it.
Jag bailed out and dumped as much Visteon equipment as they could, all the facelift s-types with the 4.2 have a denso pcm and accessories.
the AJ35 in the gen2 has a bunch of changes from the AJ33 (4.2) but adapted for the PTEC. morse chain, front mount throttle body and new intake bolt pattern. some bean counter finally gave the green light for VVT. converting an AJ33/41 to run on a gen2 is absolutely doable
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DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
I can confirm AJV8's post for the bushings are correct. part# XR8-13260 is what I purchased. They are oem solid rubber and fit the LS sub frame.
Good idea on the keyed door handles. All my doors still lock, albeit manually.
Thank you for all the insight. I still like the idea of running the NA 4.2 in the LS. DO you think i can keep the LS wiring/ECM?
Also - as an ex-accountant I take mild offense to the bean counter comment. I wouldnt have hesitated
Good idea on the keyed door handles. All my doors still lock, albeit manually.
Thank you for all the insight. I still like the idea of running the NA 4.2 in the LS. DO you think i can keep the LS wiring/ECM?
Also - as an ex-accountant I take mild offense to the bean counter comment. I wouldnt have hesitated
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
I looked into alternate routing and couldn't gain confidence in leaving the OEM routing. Might revisit this again down the road though so thanks for the tips.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Something else has arisen since my last post. The car (trans) is just making a lot of hissing and mechanical noise now when in Reverse or Drive. Additionally, the driveline vibration has not subsided even after I have triple checked hardware and now alignment. So I think I have a diff/driveshaft/axle or maybe trans issue that is persisitng. Finally, the car started to "wobble" around a long right hand turn the other day at about 35. I had to slow down and straighten out to ease my anxiety. Maybe I have a bad axle. (wish there were more people with this swap on a gen2 that could confirm the gen1 axles are the correct choice)
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Hey everyone - I have decided to part ways with this project and pass it off to someone else. Local friend of mine bought her. He has always been there to help out and support this build, and is a fellow LS owner already, so the car is on good & deserving hands. He may continue my saga for ultra-light 3.9 performance, or use the car and some of its mods for a good swap candidate. Either way, I had a blast with this car over the last 5 years and want to thank everyone on LVC that has helped me over the years keep this project going/answer so many questions. Before the car was delivered to him, I decided to have a final photoshoot with it in its running condition. Enjoy these parting photos.
Will have FS thread up soon in the classifieds for anyone looking for some of the parts I have kept & hoarded over the years. If you want anything just pay shipping, I need to get it cleaned out and make space for the next project. Any Chicagoland people, just come and take it. The only thing I will be asking for $$ for is the OZ wheels, Rear seats, and likely the headliner as it is in good shape.
CL Link here currently: 2006 Lincoln LS Parts
Will have FS thread up soon in the classifieds for anyone looking for some of the parts I have kept & hoarded over the years. If you want anything just pay shipping, I need to get it cleaned out and make space for the next project. Any Chicagoland people, just come and take it. The only thing I will be asking for $$ for is the OZ wheels, Rear seats, and likely the headliner as it is in good shape.
CL Link here currently: 2006 Lincoln LS Parts