For the simplest swap-for-displacement NA engine, I'd go straight to the 4.4L Land Rover block. The 4.3L & 4.7L would need the oil system to go with it, & real estate under the hood of the LS is already at a premium
Devin's 06 LS - Round 2
- Thread starter DeviLSh
- Start date
SteveOwens
Active LVC Member
Look at the Bassini X-pipe. It is an engineered exhaust mixing chamber. It provide extended mid range versus the oem chamber.
SteveOwens
Active LVC Member
As for your leak, place a white poster board under where your seen the leak. Easier tracing.
SteveOwens
Active LVC Member
Inspection the rubber couples on the driveshaft. Bend them some to see for cracks. Also make sure all the oem driveshaft fasteners are used. When the corrected driveline is back in use a Sanford Meanstreak to index all parts.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Looked like leak was between bellhousing and engine block at the 6o'clock spot.(from what I could tell kneeling underneath the car)
Driveshaft was custom made to mate to the new diff. New hardware and LS stock guibos were removed.
Trans --> Billet yoke --> Chromoloy slipshaft 1pc driveshaft --> Pinion Yoke --> Mark8 DIff flange.
Driveshaft was custom made to mate to the new diff. New hardware and LS stock guibos were removed.
Trans --> Billet yoke --> Chromoloy slipshaft 1pc driveshaft --> Pinion Yoke --> Mark8 DIff flange.
SteveOwens
Active LVC Member
Custom work to get the MK VIII carrier in?
Hey, isn't the vent somewhere around there? I seem to remember that the 2005-2010 S197 Mustangs would leak from there sometimes when they were run on track. I think JDM used to make an overflow tank for it that mounted on the firewall or something.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Will look into this - seems like a lot of fluid for a venting process (idiots's opinion)
Yes - you have to modify the LS subframe to accept the forward mounts of the mark8 diff. However, the bolt pattern of the rear cover matches the LS, so you can use an LS rear cover to utilize the existing rearward mounts on the subframe. In my case, I needed to source a gen1 diff cover as the gen2 is a bit different offset. Also gen1 LS axles. Then all the guts, bushings, driveshaft, tune change, and associated parts for the swap. More info earlier in this thread. (see previous page)
SteveOwens
Active LVC Member
Thanks for the info on the 8" to 8.8" irs carrier swap!
When was the last fluid change on transmission? And/or how hard were you driving it before then? The vent line travels along the top of the trans from the rear to the front. If the fluid got hot enough, & if it was overfilled, it'll start puking
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
It hasnt been serviced/topped off for 4-5 years (30k mi or so).
It isn't babied - before or after the diff swap. So not much variance in driving style to be a "change". I did give it hell before the leak was found. (175-185trans temps observed on X4). couple 1-3 pulls, one launch, a few 1-2 shifts, trying to stay below 60 though. confirming the LSD works lol.
Something I have always wondered - does changing the R&P from 3.58 - 4.10 add stress on the trans, some sort of upstream reaction to the change in torque ratio? It possible i had a pre-existing issue, that is now highlighted and coming to the surface.
Driveshaft shop just called - going ot double check balance on the shaft, but all looks good. Mentioned that the passenger side axle appears to be be popping out 1/2" and might not be the proper length. (unclear if it needs to be shorter or longer) trying to see what I can find of others who have done this swap on a gen2 and kept the 3.9/5R55, to keep things comparative.
So current ideas:
1 - Coincidental trans issue causing a leak or vibration. or both
2 - New driveshaft balance issue
3 - Potential axle issue that arrives at 70mph due to length of unit
4 - Something unrelated to trans. (Motor, bearings, suspension, etc) Trying to figure out what else is dependent on mph.
I should have tested 70mph in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears to see if it occurred in all gears. Hindsight is 20/20
It isn't babied - before or after the diff swap. So not much variance in driving style to be a "change". I did give it hell before the leak was found. (175-185trans temps observed on X4). couple 1-3 pulls, one launch, a few 1-2 shifts, trying to stay below 60 though. confirming the LSD works lol.
Something I have always wondered - does changing the R&P from 3.58 - 4.10 add stress on the trans, some sort of upstream reaction to the change in torque ratio? It possible i had a pre-existing issue, that is now highlighted and coming to the surface.
Driveshaft shop just called - going ot double check balance on the shaft, but all looks good. Mentioned that the passenger side axle appears to be be popping out 1/2" and might not be the proper length. (unclear if it needs to be shorter or longer) trying to see what I can find of others who have done this swap on a gen2 and kept the 3.9/5R55, to keep things comparative.
So current ideas:
1 - Coincidental trans issue causing a leak or vibration. or both
2 - New driveshaft balance issue
3 - Potential axle issue that arrives at 70mph due to length of unit
4 - Something unrelated to trans. (Motor, bearings, suspension, etc) Trying to figure out what else is dependent on mph.
I should have tested 70mph in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gears to see if it occurred in all gears. Hindsight is 20/20
Last edited:
Popping out ½", huh? Can't remember offhand, but weren't Gen 1 axles about a half an inch different in length left to right? Trying to remember from the axle comparo thread. I got no other ideas on the trans. Just gotta start looking. Are you having NVH problems too?
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
I dug deep into my photos this morning, and found this pics of gen1 & gn2 side-by-side that I took years ago when I had both sets off the car.
Gen1 passenger is at the bottom, and the gen2 pass is above it. gen1 Driver is at the top, and gen2 driver is second from top. If the driveshaft shop is right, and the gen1 passenger axle is indeed too short, it looks like the slightly longer gen2 pass might still work.
Ill have to see if using the part numbers of each, I can determine compressed and extended lengths of each since this picture isn't very precise. Gen1 & gen2 LS didnt change rear track did they? Wondering now if any suspension or chassis dimensions changed between the two generations.
Gen1 passenger is at the bottom, and the gen2 pass is above it. gen1 Driver is at the top, and gen2 driver is second from top. If the driveshaft shop is right, and the gen1 passenger axle is indeed too short, it looks like the slightly longer gen2 pass might still work.
Ill have to see if using the part numbers of each, I can determine compressed and extended lengths of each since this picture isn't very precise. Gen1 & gen2 LS didnt change rear track did they? Wondering now if any suspension or chassis dimensions changed between the two generations.
SteveOwens
Active LVC Member
The difference i read is the front ball joint shafts diameter went from 14mm Gen 1 to 16mm Gen 2. Also the shock/spring changed. I had Swift Springs make me a set when the oem went flat.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
yes the gen2 diff is more narrow, so the gen2's are more offset than gen1. But gen1's are not equal, just less pronounced.
Got the car back from driveshaft shop yesterday, they pulled the shaft off and it still balanced out ok. Told me to look into the axle and see if I can get something longer back there. (maybe gen2). Two other people running this diff swap, in a gen2, with gen1 axles. One has a similar issue, one does not. Might try swapping another gen1 unit in to rule out MY axle, then maybe try the gen2.
Does anyone know if the axle nut torque sequence for the newer nylon nut is the same as whats in the manual for the stacked washer style (OEM/original) axle nut?
Got the car back from driveshaft shop yesterday, they pulled the shaft off and it still balanced out ok. Told me to look into the axle and see if I can get something longer back there. (maybe gen2). Two other people running this diff swap, in a gen2, with gen1 axles. One has a similar issue, one does not. Might try swapping another gen1 unit in to rule out MY axle, then maybe try the gen2.
Does anyone know if the axle nut torque sequence for the newer nylon nut is the same as whats in the manual for the stacked washer style (OEM/original) axle nut?
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
No other leaks since the two I saw - so It either was indeed venting, or I have lost so much fluid, there's not enough to leak anymore
Been a crazy last few weeks though, I sold my S4 project car as we just found out we have a little one on the way! So while I prep for that I have started to clean out the garage of parts from that build and have begun organizing a bit more of a plan for where I take the LS.
While I still have this 70mph vibration issue to solve, along with maybe a trans leak, I have continued to removed items from the car to get the weight down as its too cold to drive and diagnose the drivetrain at the moment. This week I removed the dash to pull the Pass airbag, curtain airbags, and module. While the dash is off, I am thinning the main dash harness that runs within the paneling. In other words, I am officially starting the wire diet in hopes of finding another 20-25 lbs of weight to removed from the car in total. And, my goal is to simplify the body harness down to essentials. Every component I have pulled off so far still has some associated wiring in the car, so I am depinning where I can, recording what I remove, and will soon have a condensed/reorganized system. Its a big project, and a lot of work for a little weight. But I enjoy the puzzle aspect of it and knowing it will be as thin as possible at the end. Also, Id rather work with the OEM harness than scrap it all and build new for a car that has little aftermarket support. I have the time and determination might as well try to make this work as a gutted harness first before I look into aftermarket body wiring.
Quick report on OEM SRS weight(s):
Curtains - 11lb
SW Bag - 3.5lb
Passenger - 12lb
Module, Bolts, Loom - 3lbs
More on wiring :
There is a LOT of audio, HVAC, and door wiring to purge. In addition to that, the SRS wiring, unused engine harnesses, and accessories have a lot to them. Things like fuel and trunk poppers, dome lights, sunroof, all have a decent amount of complexity and components and are all coming out. I am no engineer or electrician, but am learning a lot about the thought that goes into a vehicle harness, the SCP and Bus network(s), is really impressive stuff. I am slowly getting an understanding of the diagrams and circuits in the printed manual I have. For example, usage of joint connectors and a bus bar is a cool thing to see. VW's I worked on previously tend to just strip and press all the wires together, making removal a forced cut or snip.
Here ^^ is with the dash, and dash bar removed. FEM visible along with my new non-adjustable pedal setup. You can also see the main harness near the top of the firewall/bottom of windshield. The LS body harness essentially runs the perimeter of the interior and sub-harnesses branch off of it There are also connectors to bridge the Engine portions of the harness. Which will make it easy to "section" this off into manageable parts. Will attempt to document as much as I can for anyone who is watching, and for my sanity as I forget what I removed and where I am going with this! I am thinking of keeping the battery in the rear, but maybe relocating the Battery Fuse box, Engine fuse panel, and a few other items to the passenger glovebox area. This will decrease total wiring runs and keep things in one spot. My goal is to condense the system down as much as possible for a clean look too, not just function
@joegr - Any idea if the sunload sensor plays a role in the car starting/not starting? It has a ground, power, 2 wires to the HVAC and 2 more to the cluster. I believe its for auto headlight functionality - but am not sure if its needed for security as this is where the red blinking light is.
Congrats on your soon-to-be new addition. Parenthood is like the matrix: no one can be told what it is. You have to see it for yourself. It's gonna change the pace & priority of everything you do from here on out. Enjoy it while they're young, cause they'll be growing up quicker than you'll realize
About the wiring harness I have a suggestion: try to figure out what exactly you want to be left with & work backwards by wiring up your own harness on a board. It'll take a while, but it'll be INFINITELY less headache making than trying to nip/tuck the factory stuff. Plus afterwards when it's installed, you'll have far fewer failure points to figure out
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Your parenting comment is very similar to all the ones I am starting to get - def something I was intimidated by for the longest time, but now that is on the horizon, I am getting excited for it. I have yet to hear the Matrix analogy though, and am loving that! haha.
Regarding the wiring. I know you are right - I really dont have much to retain beyond the ECU, TCU, cluster, Lighting, Charging system, fueling, and ABS (for speedo, I actually want to remove the ABS braking system!).
I WISH I could find a way to confirm what I absolutely need to keep the stock ECU system happy, so I am doing that piece by piece right now. Or in other words, truly confirm the level of integration between body and engine harness. Since I am willing to say goodbye to 99% of the creature comforts in this car, this may be easier in my case than those who are just doing motor swaps. But I am still learning what is essential and what is not. Digesting the harness with my hands in a weird way is easier to conceptualize than reading the diagrams.
Budget and capability are holding me back right now I think. As you know, I like the AJ motor, and might even upgrade to a jag unit at some pooint. I am obsessed with seeing how far this car can go on stock motor/family motor. As such, Im not sure standalone is the answer for me on the engine side, which would undoubtedly make the chassis side easier if the two systems were divorced.
My limited knowledge of even basic electric circuits is also intimidating to me. With the OEM harness, I can at least retrace steps and have a mold to follow. I recognize I have the ability to learn it all, but I am trying to save $$ where I can. I not even sure the first place to start would be in a home-made harness.
I have looked at some of the race car systems out there, in the $$$'s range and are now aftermarket CAN and such. With nice little switch boards and simplified wiring. I love the thought, but get overwhelmed by my own knowledge gap. End up spinning in unproductive circles haha
Regarding the wiring. I know you are right - I really dont have much to retain beyond the ECU, TCU, cluster, Lighting, Charging system, fueling, and ABS (for speedo, I actually want to remove the ABS braking system!).
I WISH I could find a way to confirm what I absolutely need to keep the stock ECU system happy, so I am doing that piece by piece right now. Or in other words, truly confirm the level of integration between body and engine harness. Since I am willing to say goodbye to 99% of the creature comforts in this car, this may be easier in my case than those who are just doing motor swaps. But I am still learning what is essential and what is not. Digesting the harness with my hands in a weird way is easier to conceptualize than reading the diagrams.
Budget and capability are holding me back right now I think. As you know, I like the AJ motor, and might even upgrade to a jag unit at some pooint. I am obsessed with seeing how far this car can go on stock motor/family motor. As such, Im not sure standalone is the answer for me on the engine side, which would undoubtedly make the chassis side easier if the two systems were divorced.
My limited knowledge of even basic electric circuits is also intimidating to me. With the OEM harness, I can at least retrace steps and have a mold to follow. I recognize I have the ability to learn it all, but I am trying to save $$ where I can. I not even sure the first place to start would be in a home-made harness.
I have looked at some of the race car systems out there, in the $$$'s range and are now aftermarket CAN and such. With nice little switch boards and simplified wiring. I love the thought, but get overwhelmed by my own knowledge gap. End up spinning in unproductive circles haha