Devin's 06 LS - Round 2
- Thread starter DeviLSh
- Start date
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks for the tip. Go figure, the 5 search results I found made no mention of a steamer method. Next time I will increase my sample size of searches before quick-starting the job. 
Andrizzle
Dedicated LVC Member
Yea I actually use a clothing steamer to remove tint. It is extremely handy to use on auto-tint as it is small and there is no bulky parts or hoses to lug around. Not to mention it does a great job at releasing wrinkles on clothes!
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
steamer works great.
Ive also use adhesive remover called "Tint Off" worked pretty good too.
the only thing I wouldn't recommend doing is scraping the back window... I've seen somebody damage their rear defroster too many times.
Ive also use adhesive remover called "Tint Off" worked pretty good too.
the only thing I wouldn't recommend doing is scraping the back window... I've seen somebody damage their rear defroster too many times.
RigsLS
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Devin, I changed the belt, pulley and the tentioner last night and on a somewhat cold start this morning my clanking noise has subsided. The old Tentioner actually didn't even want to move when i went to remove the belt so much so that I was forced to cut the belt off. I suspect the old Tentioner was my problem. I'll still be listening and on the look out for this sound over the next bit.
At one point I honestly thought the noise was coming most notably from the DCCV solenoids. Thought it was possibly the A/C clutch also at one point.
Noise is gone is all that matters to me.
GL
At one point I honestly thought the noise was coming most notably from the DCCV solenoids. Thought it was possibly the A/C clutch also at one point.
Noise is gone is all that matters to me.
GL
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks for the Update BigRig, I spoke with another LLSOC member and a mechanic friend of mine. The three of us have also decided I will start with a tensioner/pulley. (by pulley do you mean the pulley on the tensioner? Or did you replace a separate part?)
NOW GO FILM YOUR EXHAUST SETUP SO I CAN HEAR IT!!!!!
EDIT- Just saw your post in the other thread. Tensioner and pulley replaced. Thanks!
NOW GO FILM YOUR EXHAUST SETUP SO I CAN HEAR IT!!!!!
EDIT- Just saw your post in the other thread. Tensioner and pulley replaced. Thanks!
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Hi all,
Still need to get some better pics up of the tint and LSE tails, but am loving the look so far on the car. Work should slow down soon.
Yesterday, I ordered:
1 - Fuel line disconnect tools so I can complete fuel filter job
2 - Idler pulley, tensioner, and correct cabin air filter. (rockauto)
Got lucky tonight and drove out to meet a fellow LS owner, and to my surprise he had one of these for sale - I was not going to pass it up.
The two mods I thought I would have the hardest time finding ended up being some of my first (LSE tails and Mclaren) So I am glad that those two are out of the way. Might be a while until I can commit to painting this grill, but am ecstatic to have found it.
But the luck was short lived - I have noticed the car has been "chugging" lately under medium/heavy throttle, at lower rpm. Usually when cruising on the highway or winding it out uphill, on ramps, etc. Almost felt like the tq converter or trans was engaging in/out, but no cel, no other symptoms. Just noticeable vibrating and jerky acceleration every so often. I even started to think the K&N intake was causing turbulence and irregularity at certain throttle inputs. But tonight the problem keep happening, to the point where no matter when I was on the gas it would do it. Idle got rough, leveled out, repeat. Eventually, the CEl starts flashing when the car was sputtering as I pulled away from a stop, after the flash it stayed on and I was able to get home alright, but had to use light throttle the entire drive. Smell of rotten eggs (cats) was present after the misfiring.
Scanned it when I arrived home and got: P0300, P0301, P0302. Cyl 1&2 misfires. I knew I was on borrowed time with this car being on 7 original coils. (one replaced with the previous owner, and all 8 plugs done at that time) But Man - I did not think I would get cooling parts, rear deck speaker, coils, and a window regulator all in the first three months with her. Trans is probably next with this luck streak I am on!
Here is what I know: Get all 8 new motorcrafts. Get new plugs for all 8 at the same time, and set the gap to 1mm. (thanks to Joegr for his daily post in any given thread).
My questions for the group are:
1) How often do coils fail without a VCG leak or cowl cover water leak? Is it possible mine died of old age?
2) Car still has ESP coverage, so I will take what I can get from the dealer, but my guess is I will be out of pocket for 6-7 coils, plugs, and who knows what else based on what they want to fix and cover for this. Does anyone have any good advice or an experience to share regarding coil pack failure and how to manage this with a dealer and ESP plan to minimize cost and maximize the repair? - I have no problem fixing the rest, but I am almost hoping the VCG leaked and that will get fixed, allowing me to buy the other COP's and plugs and swap those out myself. The tech I have gotten to know is very familiar with the LS and the COP/VCG job, but again, not sure how to approach this so that I can obtain the best benefit while under ESP care.
Hopefully some more pictures and better news to report soon.
Thanks,
-Devin
Still need to get some better pics up of the tint and LSE tails, but am loving the look so far on the car. Work should slow down soon.
Yesterday, I ordered:
1 - Fuel line disconnect tools so I can complete fuel filter job
2 - Idler pulley, tensioner, and correct cabin air filter. (rockauto)
Got lucky tonight and drove out to meet a fellow LS owner, and to my surprise he had one of these for sale - I was not going to pass it up.
The two mods I thought I would have the hardest time finding ended up being some of my first (LSE tails and Mclaren) So I am glad that those two are out of the way. Might be a while until I can commit to painting this grill, but am ecstatic to have found it.
But the luck was short lived - I have noticed the car has been "chugging" lately under medium/heavy throttle, at lower rpm. Usually when cruising on the highway or winding it out uphill, on ramps, etc. Almost felt like the tq converter or trans was engaging in/out, but no cel, no other symptoms. Just noticeable vibrating and jerky acceleration every so often. I even started to think the K&N intake was causing turbulence and irregularity at certain throttle inputs. But tonight the problem keep happening, to the point where no matter when I was on the gas it would do it. Idle got rough, leveled out, repeat. Eventually, the CEl starts flashing when the car was sputtering as I pulled away from a stop, after the flash it stayed on and I was able to get home alright, but had to use light throttle the entire drive. Smell of rotten eggs (cats) was present after the misfiring.
Scanned it when I arrived home and got: P0300, P0301, P0302. Cyl 1&2 misfires. I knew I was on borrowed time with this car being on 7 original coils. (one replaced with the previous owner, and all 8 plugs done at that time) But Man - I did not think I would get cooling parts, rear deck speaker, coils, and a window regulator all in the first three months with her. Trans is probably next with this luck streak I am on!
Here is what I know: Get all 8 new motorcrafts. Get new plugs for all 8 at the same time, and set the gap to 1mm. (thanks to Joegr for his daily post in any given thread).
My questions for the group are:
1) How often do coils fail without a VCG leak or cowl cover water leak? Is it possible mine died of old age?
2) Car still has ESP coverage, so I will take what I can get from the dealer, but my guess is I will be out of pocket for 6-7 coils, plugs, and who knows what else based on what they want to fix and cover for this. Does anyone have any good advice or an experience to share regarding coil pack failure and how to manage this with a dealer and ESP plan to minimize cost and maximize the repair? - I have no problem fixing the rest, but I am almost hoping the VCG leaked and that will get fixed, allowing me to buy the other COP's and plugs and swap those out myself. The tech I have gotten to know is very familiar with the LS and the COP/VCG job, but again, not sure how to approach this so that I can obtain the best benefit while under ESP care.
Hopefully some more pictures and better news to report soon.
Thanks,
-Devin
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
We've been debating the possibility of using a bit smaller gap on the plugs to extend the life of the coils. No conclusions yet, nor suggestions although if you'd like to give it a shot I'd suggest reducing it 5 to 10 percent. That would be 0.035 (-10%) to 0.037 9-5%) instead of the 0.039 that is 1mm. The smaller gap would be easier for the coils to spark a strike on, which would allow them to run cooler.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
I have been following that thread, and was considering John/Deacon's advice regarding the iridium plugs with fine wire, which in my understanding also places less stress on the COP's. He recommended running them at .038, as he does. So this seems to be inline with what you are proposing.
Only downside to this experiment, is collecting accurate data to prove it's worth ya know? Even if I do it, and the COPS last to let's say... 160k mi(6.7% longer life than the current ones lasted) Too many other driving and environmental variables present I would think to conclude it works. I suppose - if they failed immediately we would know the theory was way off.
I am not opposed to taking this approach though, I generally agree with how the smaller gap can cause lower stress.
Thanks
(no call from dealer today by the way, I guess a lot of lincolns are breaking down these days)
Only downside to this experiment, is collecting accurate data to prove it's worth ya know? Even if I do it, and the COPS last to let's say... 160k mi(6.7% longer life than the current ones lasted) Too many other driving and environmental variables present I would think to conclude it works. I suppose - if they failed immediately we would know the theory was way off.
I am not opposed to taking this approach though, I generally agree with how the smaller gap can cause lower stress.
Thanks
(no call from dealer today by the way, I guess a lot of lincolns are breaking down these days)
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Heh heh, if your Lincoln dealer is like mine, they don't think Lincoln made an LS.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Telco, when I called in the morning after I dropped off the LS - The guy was like uhhh what car did you drop off? But after a few seconds, I was relieved, he goes OH THE GUY WITH THE NICE LS!! So that made me a little happy.
Got the car back this morning. COP #1 was replaced under ESP care, #2 & #3 did not fail the stress test, per the tech, and therefore would not be covered under ford. No Oil leaks found in any of the 8 plug holes. I am ordering 8 plugs and 7 COPS and will fix the rest on my own shortly. Just want all done at the same time. To do one at a time at the dealer, would cost me 2x as much if I had to do all of them that way. Would rather spend the $$ now and know that they are all new.
-dev
But after a few seconds, I was relieved, he goes OH THE GUY WITH THE NICE LS!! So that made me a little happy. Got the car back this morning. COP #1 was replaced under ESP care, #2 & #3 did not fail the stress test, per the tech, and therefore would not be covered under ford. No Oil leaks found in any of the 8 plug holes. I am ordering 8 plugs and 7 COPS and will fix the rest on my own shortly. Just want all done at the same time. To do one at a time at the dealer, would cost me 2x as much if I had to do all of them that way. Would rather spend the $$ now and know that they are all new.
-dev
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Fuel filter, Coils, and plug swap done last night/this morning. Some good news, some bad.
Good:
1) Job was not as bad as I anticipated. Various threads on here to thank for preparation (tools needed, etc) - thanks LVC!
2) No oil in any plug wells, but some on the plug threads of #3 and #8.
3) Replaced coil cover bolts, and am happy with the turnout.
4) Car runs like a champ!
Bad:
1) The car clearly has suffered some sort of water intrusion from either faulty sealant application on the covers, or just typical LS cowl water leak/intrusion. Passenger side shows water stains, rusty valve cover hardware, and this was the side of the recently failed #1 and failing #2/#3.
2) Cylinder #3 and #8, showed nothing in the wells but hardened oil at the base of the plug (not fresh or wet) and some buildup on the plug threads and base.
3) I broke #4's coil electrical connector when installing. It just snipped off like it was nothing.
4) Witnessed the water drip DIRECTLY onto the p/s coil cover after my test drive. Nothing new to the LS crowd, so back to part ordering I go.
Fresh parts:
First sight at #3 & #4 - indicative of a water leak.
Old coils: #1 less than 100mi on it, 2-7: 74K, #8: 20K or so on it.
Old Plugs: 20k or so, done when #8 COP replaced by prev. owner
Close-up of #8's plug (YIKES!)
New hardware - Old ones pictured, were dirty, rusty, and slightly stripped. Stainless M5x20, .80" pitch.
Installed -
All finished and ready for her test drive:
I sealed the coil-covers with fresh rtv, and then ran some extra over the outside of the wiring after they were bolted down. While I feel good about the seal as it sits, I need to get this leak fixed. After the test drive, I glanced under the hood and was able to observe the drips - Passenger side.
video
https://www.flickr.com/photos/devinbarnas/26336535566/in/dateposted-public/
1.5 more weeks of tax season, then I will have some more time off to do work on the car, and take some pictures. Tensioner, cabin air and idler still in the to-do pile.
I will order the wiper shaft seals (5W4Z-54021A46-A), and new cowl pins. Anything else you guys recommend for chasing down this water leak?
Got a new phone this week and snapped this pic during overcast - makes the tint look VERY dark.
Thanks for checking in,
-Devin
Good:
1) Job was not as bad as I anticipated. Various threads on here to thank for preparation (tools needed, etc) - thanks LVC!
2) No oil in any plug wells, but some on the plug threads of #3 and #8.
3) Replaced coil cover bolts, and am happy with the turnout.
4) Car runs like a champ!
Bad:
1) The car clearly has suffered some sort of water intrusion from either faulty sealant application on the covers, or just typical LS cowl water leak/intrusion. Passenger side shows water stains, rusty valve cover hardware, and this was the side of the recently failed #1 and failing #2/#3.
2) Cylinder #3 and #8, showed nothing in the wells but hardened oil at the base of the plug (not fresh or wet) and some buildup on the plug threads and base.
3) I broke #4's coil electrical connector when installing. It just snipped off like it was nothing.
4) Witnessed the water drip DIRECTLY onto the p/s coil cover after my test drive. Nothing new to the LS crowd, so back to part ordering I go.
Fresh parts:
First sight at #3 & #4 - indicative of a water leak.
Old coils: #1 less than 100mi on it, 2-7: 74K, #8: 20K or so on it.
Old Plugs: 20k or so, done when #8 COP replaced by prev. owner
Close-up of #8's plug (YIKES!)
New hardware - Old ones pictured, were dirty, rusty, and slightly stripped. Stainless M5x20, .80" pitch.
Installed -
All finished and ready for her test drive:
I sealed the coil-covers with fresh rtv, and then ran some extra over the outside of the wiring after they were bolted down. While I feel good about the seal as it sits, I need to get this leak fixed. After the test drive, I glanced under the hood and was able to observe the drips - Passenger side.
video
https://www.flickr.com/photos/devinbarnas/26336535566/in/dateposted-public/
1.5 more weeks of tax season, then I will have some more time off to do work on the car, and take some pictures. Tensioner, cabin air and idler still in the to-do pile.
I will order the wiper shaft seals (5W4Z-54021A46-A), and new cowl pins. Anything else you guys recommend for chasing down this water leak?
Got a new phone this week and snapped this pic during overcast - makes the tint look VERY dark.
Thanks for checking in,
-Devin
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Replaced the old seal last night, Looks like I also need some new stripping near the cabin-air filter cowl drains. The old stuff was all broken-down and flaking like a croissant. So I do not thin my leak is fixed yet, but definitely getting there. Anyone know where I can grab some new metal clips for the cowl seal? A few of mine are not sticking like they should, and This appears to be part of my problem.
Old seal:
Quick video of the intake, after COP/plug install.
[video]https://flic.kr/p/FoYGsw[/video]
Old seal:
Quick video of the intake, after COP/plug install.
[video]https://flic.kr/p/FoYGsw[/video]
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Got the Tensioner, Idler pulley, and leaky VCT seals done today. Install wasn't that bad, I got the LS on ramps - did the belt removal from the top, and the two components were unbolted and removed from the bottom. About an hour's worth of work. VCT seals took 5-10min per side. Intake went back on and I was off for a quick victory drive.
Testing out my coworker's camera today - here are a few shots of the new tails, and tint.
Lastly, Before I start any exhaust work/modifications, I decided to take a video of the stock LS note for comparison. Nothing you all haven to seen/heard before. The K&N comes through a bit too, sounds good. Headphones work best, as the wind noise drowns out a lot the engine exhaust.
https://flic.kr/p/GyweT4
Picked this up this week too (Cover from 4.2 XJ) Anxious to start this project!
Testing out my coworker's camera today - here are a few shots of the new tails, and tint.
Lastly, Before I start any exhaust work/modifications, I decided to take a video of the stock LS note for comparison. Nothing you all haven to seen/heard before. The K&N comes through a bit too, sounds good. Headphones work best, as the wind noise drowns out a lot the engine exhaust.
https://flic.kr/p/GyweT4
Picked this up this week too (Cover from 4.2 XJ) Anxious to start this project!
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
If you don't find the clips, try Permatex windshield sealant. It flows well, will hold it in place damn near forever, but won't be a bear to remove if you ever need to. Just clean it well.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Finally - I can hear my LS. Friday I deleted my rear mufflers off the car. Saturday morning I had straight pipes put in place and some magnaflow tips added, 3.5". For now, the sound is actually pleasing. It could definitely use some refinement, but the over-run and coast while in SST are glorious. Nice crackles and gargles as the revs fall. Loving it so far. Eventually I will work on the mid section, but still have some other things to tend to on the LS before I can start building a full exhaust. My guess is a Dual MF with X, and a pair of magnaflow resonators, then some mandrel bends to finish it off will add the refinement I am looking for with the added benefits of an X pipe. Highway drone is not bad with this setup. 75-85 above 2300 rpm I can carry a conversation easily in the car. So I was also please with that.
The installer had 4' available, but I felt better about the 3.5" being a nice middle ground between stock and 4".
Question for the group - The aluminum chassis braces underneath the car. Is there supposed to be a gap between the bar and the shoulder/collar of the frontward bolt that keeps into bolted to the body? (near the rack) See picture below. I will check the manual tonight for tq spec, but it is one of the things I noticed while the LS was on the lift.
Lastly - Can you say bad diff seal? (yikes)
Video soon of the exhaust, will probably dump it in the LS video thread as well once I get around to it.
The installer had 4' available, but I felt better about the 3.5" being a nice middle ground between stock and 4".
Question for the group - The aluminum chassis braces underneath the car. Is there supposed to be a gap between the bar and the shoulder/collar of the frontward bolt that keeps into bolted to the body? (near the rack) See picture below. I will check the manual tonight for tq spec, but it is one of the things I noticed while the LS was on the lift.
Lastly - Can you say bad diff seal? (yikes)
Video soon of the exhaust, will probably dump it in the LS video thread as well once I get around to it.
RigsLS
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Devin, do not torq that bolt up, leave it be. It's supposed to be like that. We've had someone in the past that attempted to tighten that bolt and he snapped it right clean off.
Confirm with others but it's my understand this is normal, the bolt is already tight in place.
here have a look,
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?94847-Broken-bolt-in-the-front-subframe
Confirm with others but it's my understand this is normal, the bolt is already tight in place.
here have a look,
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?94847-Broken-bolt-in-the-front-subframe
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks guys! Had bolts similar to this on my last car(s) so I assumed as such, but definitely wanted to check with you all.
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks, LKQ vendor on ebay $50 shipped to my door (they did an excellent job wrapping it in bubble wrap) Search 4.2 Stype or XJ v8 engine cover. Usually a few for sale at any given time.
Found one - EXAMPLE LINK
Yes - Mike H. has done a hybrid of an LS cover, using the Jag middle section.
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/forum/showthread.php?92119-jaguar-air-intake/page4
I just took a video today, but am having a hard time getting Windows Movie Maker to finalize it. The clips turned out very well though on my new phone's camera. Should have something to show shortly.
Meanwhile - Snapped this pic after washing her this Saturday:
DeviLSh
Dedicated LVC Member
Video up!
WMM doesn't seem to play nice with iphone videos - as a result, the only video I can upload is one without trimmed clips or fancy captions. I apologize for the sloppy video editing. I will have to get some better software for future use. Very happy with the image/audio quality, overall.
Headphones allow the lower tones to come through better, I recommend wearing some when viewing
[video]https://youtu.be/RX2Ob9M3evk[/video]
WMM doesn't seem to play nice with iphone videos - as a result, the only video I can upload is one without trimmed clips or fancy captions. I apologize for the sloppy video editing. I will have to get some better software for future use. Very happy with the image/audio quality, overall.
Headphones allow the lower tones to come through better, I recommend wearing some when viewing
[video]https://youtu.be/RX2Ob9M3evk[/video]