Been a few days now on the new rad, so I will post some more info on the swap. the cooling performance has improved, drastically.
General:
I am running a Mustang V8 all-aluminum radiator from Mishimoto. It was ordered from CD3 performance, but here is
the manufacture's link. It is for the 05+ Mustang. I spent considerable time looking for LS, Stype, & Tbird rads, with no luck on anything all aluminum, short of sending in stock specs to a custom outfit like Griffin. However, when I came across images of a stock stang rad, I noticed the shape similarity and Inlet/outlet location was just like the LS. I decided to investigate the specs, I compared them to the LS, and after being comfortable with how close they were - figured I would give this a shot. Once I got it out of the box, it was clear this would not be a direct fit. So
please read this, as this is not a direct replacement for the LS rad. Also please keep in mind my LS does not have the A/C system, which may have helped my fitment. While I think this can work for any LS, even with A/C, it will require some minimum modifications.
Comparison:
Changes to the Mustang Rad:
I only made one change to the mustang radiator. In the upper-driver's corner, is a welded nipple for hose not present on the LS. I had this removed and replaced with a -8 AN aluminum male bung. So that I could effectively cap it. I figured down the road if I change motors, cooling setup, etc that retaining and port here would be good insurance.
Overall - changes needed to fit into the LS were not too bad. One mount, Fan shroud, a bracket or 2, and some hose trimming.
I was able to use 3 out of 4 original LS radiator mounts. Only the 4th, (lower driver) required modification. I had to notch the bracket, then I retained the LS rubber bushing, and used a series of nuts, long bolt, and L bracket to support the rad from the bottom. There was already a hole in the bracket for my bolt to pass through. This worked out nicely, and allowed me to not only secure the rad at all 4 corners, but it also helped take some stress off the main hoses and keep the radiator at a level mounting position.
Ironically, the LS Fan & Shroud were almost meant to be mounted to the mustang rad. The new rad had notched tabs located on it for the shroud to rest in - just like the LS rad, along with mounting provisions (2 per side). We had to slightly notch the driver side bracket to allow the shroud to sit level, and for the upper-driver bolt hole to align. Otherwise, this part was relatively easy. The fan is secured using 2 oem bolts, and one of the lower tabs. It is sturdy and the coverage area of the radiator is almost perfect.
Notch: (we used a standard file to make it)
The stang rad also has two notched brackets on the front, JUST LIKE THE LS, for the accessory cooler(s) of P/S and Auto Trans. I was able to rest the coolers directly into the brackets like stock, and was pretty happy. Some side to side play was present, so I used a small piece of steel, drilled it, and made a bracket. The holes did not line up, but were easily joined with this bracket. **This is where if you are retaining A/C, the job may get more difficult. As some added caution may exist to fit the cooler, rad, and A/C condenser.There are plenty of threaded holes on the Mishimoto rad to make brackets for mounting both**
After the initial test-fit, it was clear the new rad was wider, and therefore closer to the engine. The main hoses, and the small hose of the T-stat housing needed to be trimmed slightly to prevent kinking, and contact with the fan shroud. Use a good set of hose cutters or a sharp blade and take about 1/4" off at a time. Testing as you go. If you don't cut the hoses down there will be *slight* kinks near the bends. We could have installed as-is, but thought it would be best to perfect each hose. After everything was on, we secured the oem spring style clamps, and secured the upper rad mounts. We were done!
New rad is also slightly taller, so it pokes out of the bottom a bit more. However, no modification to the bumper, skidplates, or under-panels was needed. Everything bolted up A-OK.
Bleed the system like normal, being sure to follow instructions exactly. After bleeding once, then again, then again (1x per night, letting it cool down in between) I was confident I had the air out, and no external leaks were found.
I began to drive it. Now, it is possible I had some air before, or my parts were starting to go. But so far, the rad is outperforming stock very well. The car warms up about the same, within a few minutes, and at around 190, it begins to slow down. Once driving, it
almost NEVER comes above 205 or so. If it does, its because you are driving hard, or creeping in traffic/low speed. I am seeing 195-200 at most driving times, with 205-210 in higher stress times. On the highway I have seen it drop to 188-192. Average temp though is 195 in most cases. Another thing to note, is that if/when the temp climbs, the efficiency of the rad is so great that within a few seconds of driving the temps fall back to the 190's. We "stress" tested it by doing back to back 1st-3rd gear pulls, a burnout, highway pulls, and then coming to a stop. The system worked flawlessly.
Cruising for about 25min at 80mph
So far, the fitment, performance, and overall success of this swap has exceeded my expectations. Should be interesting to see my temps next time I am at the strip.
Please feel free to ask any questions on fitment, product, etc. I will do my best to respond.
