Had no problems except AC was not all that good. Had new compressor installed. Ran ok for about a month, but twice in the last 12 hours, the temp shot up, message came on check engine temp, turned off AC and as I pulled to the side of the road it went down to normal and never missed a lick. Do you think it is a faulty gauge? Never had this problem before.
Engine overheat?
- Thread starter Maxx
- Start date
Travis2000LS
Well-Known LVC Member
Ok. So this Overheating problem has been beat to death on these Lincoln LS's..
This is what I know about the Gen I's 2000-2002
A FEW things to check..
THERMOSTAT! 20$ Fix.. about a 1 Hour repair time.. Hey money well spent and that way you can say you replaced it at X amount of miles..
*Are you losing water?* If So - Check your Degas Bottle (Where you fill your anti-freeze up at), These are notorious for getting small hairline cracks and letting in air..
*Is your fan spinning realativly slow or at all. Is it fluctuation with RPM's?* If So or Not - Check your Fan Pump, Your Hydraulic fan fluid should be Darkish Red. Not Pink or Tanish, this is a sign of water in it and could mess up the pump. If your fan is not spinning fast or not fluctuation.. Check the Fan pump actuator.
A Few Other Things To Check...
Air bleed your system.. Search in Air Bleed in the search bar on the Forums ..
Get a new Degas Bottle Cap.. 7$ at Auto Store..
Any further questions??
Would be smart to post what year LS you have..
Lincoln LS's Differ in Engines and Electronics and just about everything in a mechanical way in the Generations
How to tell your Gen..
Gen I's 2000-2002
Gen II - 2003-2006
Gen I's have Fat Tail lights, Gen II have Slim Tail Lights..
Gen II's have electric fan.. Gen I is Hydraulic..
Gen I's 3.9L V8 Has 252Hp, Gen II 3.9L 280HP
Tada..
ALSO
How is the heat in the car.. Is it hot?? Or does it not heat up.. Could be a stopped up heater core..
This is what I know about the Gen I's 2000-2002
A FEW things to check..
THERMOSTAT! 20$ Fix.. about a 1 Hour repair time.. Hey money well spent and that way you can say you replaced it at X amount of miles..
*Are you losing water?* If So - Check your Degas Bottle (Where you fill your anti-freeze up at), These are notorious for getting small hairline cracks and letting in air..
*Is your fan spinning realativly slow or at all. Is it fluctuation with RPM's?* If So or Not - Check your Fan Pump, Your Hydraulic fan fluid should be Darkish Red. Not Pink or Tanish, this is a sign of water in it and could mess up the pump. If your fan is not spinning fast or not fluctuation.. Check the Fan pump actuator.
A Few Other Things To Check...
Air bleed your system.. Search in Air Bleed in the search bar on the Forums ..
Get a new Degas Bottle Cap.. 7$ at Auto Store..
Any further questions??
Would be smart to post what year LS you have..
Lincoln LS's Differ in Engines and Electronics and just about everything in a mechanical way in the Generations
How to tell your Gen..
Gen I's 2000-2002
Gen II - 2003-2006
Gen I's have Fat Tail lights, Gen II have Slim Tail Lights..
Gen II's have electric fan.. Gen I is Hydraulic..
Gen I's 3.9L V8 Has 252Hp, Gen II 3.9L 280HP
Tada..
ALSO
How is the heat in the car.. Is it hot?? Or does it not heat up.. Could be a stopped up heater core..
never did find a radiator cap, closed system? anyway, opened coolant bottle ran car for about 20 minutes and added a gallon of water. Car is driven 124 miles daily. Worked fine, no leaks detected, but will see about new bottle.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The cap on top of the degas bottle is the radiator cap.
There is also an engine fill cap at the front of the engine.
You need to find and replace all the leaking cooling system parts, put fresh new coolant in, and follow the bleeding procedure.
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x33004.htm~gen~ref.htm#extract_142
While you're doing all this, you might as well replace the thermostat too.
chocolat1701
Dedicated LVC Member
Also check and inspect the upper radiator hose remove it and look at the middle t it tends to break at the seam also inspect the thermostat housing where the upper hose connects to if it looks brittle then change it cuz its going to bust good rule in this ls since I also have a 04 v8. When the degas bottle goes replace all the plastic components all at the same time they seem to fail at the same interval. I did this and I ordered my parts from rockauto.com and it was around 400 just foe the cooling components. Here is a list of it.
Degas bottle
Upper radiator hose
Lower radiator hose
Thermostat housing
Thermostat housing cover
Thermostat
Small host that goes from upper radiator hose to dccv (AutoZone 5 bucks)
2 Small hides ontop of thermostat housing (AutoZone 5 bucks)
Hose that goes from degas bottle to the connector (AutoZone 8 bucks)
Thermostat rubber washers x2
Thermostat cover washer
When you remove the thermostat there is a tube that goes from the engine to the housing that one is usually good but inspect it if bad replace but what the heck change that too.
I did this 2 months ago now I'm good for another 100k. I currently have 124k on my 04 and my 02 has 214k. So replace all and do ot right and remember a tow will cost you more and you still have to replace the parts and labor.
Degas bottle
Upper radiator hose
Lower radiator hose
Thermostat housing
Thermostat housing cover
Thermostat
Small host that goes from upper radiator hose to dccv (AutoZone 5 bucks)
2 Small hides ontop of thermostat housing (AutoZone 5 bucks)
Hose that goes from degas bottle to the connector (AutoZone 8 bucks)
Thermostat rubber washers x2
Thermostat cover washer
When you remove the thermostat there is a tube that goes from the engine to the housing that one is usually good but inspect it if bad replace but what the heck change that too.
I did this 2 months ago now I'm good for another 100k. I currently have 124k on my 04 and my 02 has 214k. So replace all and do ot right and remember a tow will cost you more and you still have to replace the parts and labor.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yep, much of that stuff cracked at the same time on my 04 a year or two ago. I replaced just about all of the parts that you mentioned. I also replaced the serpentine belt since it was easy to get too with the hoses off, and it can be damaged by spilling coolant on it.
chocolat1701
Dedicated LVC Member
Yup I did so ass well and I also replaced the tensioners and pulleys they are cheap at rock auto it was like 950 for parts and labor.
Travis2000LS
Well-Known LVC Member
Yep, Lincoln LS's are bad about their plastic Cooling components
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
HELP old thread revival.
well with all the searching, at least this thread is close enough to post in/about
so, shocker here, but the end cap just blew off of my coolant outlet pipe
item 6 in image below
now for the question, I though I've seen a lot of you guys are getting a lot of these brittle @ss pieces of plastic from rock auto. and I for the life of me can not find this part on their site, does anybody know the part number they use??? or how to find it???
also open to other alternative places to pick one up, as always i would like to avoid a trip to the dealer on Monday if i can!
03 V8 sport
well with all the searching, at least this thread is close enough to post in/about
so, shocker here, but the end cap just blew off of my coolant outlet pipe
item 6 in image below
now for the question, I though I've seen a lot of you guys are getting a lot of these brittle @ss pieces of plastic from rock auto. and I for the life of me can not find this part on their site, does anybody know the part number they use??? or how to find it???
also open to other alternative places to pick one up, as always i would like to avoid a trip to the dealer on Monday if i can!
03 V8 sport
nelliott500
Well-Known LVC Member
No clue about Rock Auto. I ordered mine from www.fordpartsgiant.com. Great prices and shipped quickly. However, they fu cked me on shipping. I paid them extra for three-day shipping (had to work with them through email to do it) and they shipped it ground anyway. Ended up having to call them over and over again to refund the extra shipping cost. Eventually sent them an email with an ultimatum. I gave them one week to refund the full shipping cost ($51.70 -- they only refunded the extra amount though) or else I would call my bank and issue a charge-back on the full order due to their negligence and would also contact the BBB about it.
So, in other words, order from them but don't expect to expedite the shipment because they might screw it up.
I've pasted a picture of the invoice below of what I ordered. I recommend you replace, at the minimum, everything listed. If you order replacement seals/gaskets like I did, order two 8255A. I accidentally ordered one but you don't necessarily need any of them. You can re-use them.
The invoice replaces these three plastic components -- thermostat housing and both inlet tubes:
Do a search for coolant issues and you will find many threads on this including a basic walkthrough on replacing the components I listed. You will have to cut two bolts off for the second inlet tube (which is the one that failed on me).
Ignore the item with 0 quantity. They had to remove it because you can only order it in a pack of 4 and I don't need 4.
So, in other words, order from them but don't expect to expedite the shipment because they might screw it up.
I've pasted a picture of the invoice below of what I ordered. I recommend you replace, at the minimum, everything listed. If you order replacement seals/gaskets like I did, order two 8255A. I accidentally ordered one but you don't necessarily need any of them. You can re-use them.
The invoice replaces these three plastic components -- thermostat housing and both inlet tubes:
Do a search for coolant issues and you will find many threads on this including a basic walkthrough on replacing the components I listed. You will have to cut two bolts off for the second inlet tube (which is the one that failed on me).
Ignore the item with 0 quantity. They had to remove it because you can only order it in a pack of 4 and I don't need 4.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Sweet, thanks a bunch!
yeah, I do plan on replacing more than just the failed part, with just under 150k on the clock, I know its not going to be that long before the rest fails, im just throwing together a shopping list right now.
another question, i see that in your diagram, there is a part that does not have a number on it.
in this image, it is part number 23
on the Deneau workshop manual it list both part #23 and part #15 as the "coolant outlet pipe". it looks like it connects the main coolant outlet pipe to the water pump, but it doesn't say anything about removing it from either the instructions for removing the outlet pipe or the water pump. what is the deal with this, is it a separate part? does it come with the outlet pipe? or do i just have to get both pipes? it also looks like the bolts for it are under the throttle body, does it have to come off too to get the rear coolant outlet pipe off ?(this is what I'm going to refer to it until some one give me a better/proper name for it)
EDIT: is this part, the "Tube ASY" in your parts list?
yeah, I do plan on replacing more than just the failed part, with just under 150k on the clock, I know its not going to be that long before the rest fails, im just throwing together a shopping list right now.
another question, i see that in your diagram, there is a part that does not have a number on it.
in this image, it is part number 23
on the Deneau workshop manual it list both part #23 and part #15 as the "coolant outlet pipe". it looks like it connects the main coolant outlet pipe to the water pump, but it doesn't say anything about removing it from either the instructions for removing the outlet pipe or the water pump. what is the deal with this, is it a separate part? does it come with the outlet pipe? or do i just have to get both pipes? it also looks like the bolts for it are under the throttle body, does it have to come off too to get the rear coolant outlet pipe off ?(this is what I'm going to refer to it until some one give me a better/proper name for it)
EDIT: is this part, the "Tube ASY" in your parts list?
nelliott500
Well-Known LVC Member
It's a separate part. The part number is 9N499. It's a common failure point and is the issue that I had. The ring plastic ring at the front that is part of how it seals with the outlet pipe became brittle and a piece cracked off causing a leak.
It's a bit of a bitch to replace but definitely recommended. It's under the throttle body so you'll have to remove it which is a bit of a pain. The bottom two bolts for the throttle are a bit hard to get to and even harder to put back in. Like I mentioned in my previous post, you'll have to cut off the two rear bolts for the outlet pipe and replace them with a new, shorter version that you either make yourself or buy somewhere. I just ordered a pack of replacement bolts with the rest of the parts (the SCREW listed on the invoice) and, as suggested on this forum, cut two shorter as a replacement.
You'll need a Dremel to cut the bolts out. I can't imagine anything else exists that's small enough to get in there to do it. If you don't own a Dremel, pick up a cheap one or borrow one from a friend and then buy a pack of cutting wheels because you'll likely go through a handful.
Here's a really great thread from TooManyToys with some pictures from when he replaced pretty much every plastic cooling part on the car. It includes pictures of cutting the bolts and an explanation as to why you have to do it and why you can get away with using shorter bolts.
FYI, you will make a mess when doing this. I drained coolant at the petcock (fill cap and bottle cap off) and only got less than two quarters. There was still a lot left in the hoses.
It's a bit of a bitch to replace but definitely recommended. It's under the throttle body so you'll have to remove it which is a bit of a pain. The bottom two bolts for the throttle are a bit hard to get to and even harder to put back in. Like I mentioned in my previous post, you'll have to cut off the two rear bolts for the outlet pipe and replace them with a new, shorter version that you either make yourself or buy somewhere. I just ordered a pack of replacement bolts with the rest of the parts (the SCREW listed on the invoice) and, as suggested on this forum, cut two shorter as a replacement.
You'll need a Dremel to cut the bolts out. I can't imagine anything else exists that's small enough to get in there to do it. If you don't own a Dremel, pick up a cheap one or borrow one from a friend and then buy a pack of cutting wheels because you'll likely go through a handful.
Here's a really great thread from TooManyToys with some pictures from when he replaced pretty much every plastic cooling part on the car. It includes pictures of cutting the bolts and an explanation as to why you have to do it and why you can get away with using shorter bolts.
FYI, you will make a mess when doing this. I drained coolant at the petcock (fill cap and bottle cap off) and only got less than two quarters. There was still a lot left in the hoses.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
BTW: Every one always b!tches about all of the "common" problems with the LS, but at least common problems have common solutions, and are well known long before you ever have the problem you need to fix.
I'll take that any day over a car that has a thousand little gremlins that nobody can figure out!!!
I'll take that any day over a car that has a thousand little gremlins that nobody can figure out!!!
nelliott500
Well-Known LVC Member
Perhaps, but I also don't like the fact that my car is 8 years old, under 70k miles, and a large list of issues that cropped up while I owned the car for just a few months. A car shouldn't be as problematic as these things.
My 2004 V8 LS just overheated this past Tuesday on the way to the airport.
Seems like it just started as I got to the ticket booth entering the airport and then when I went to park.
I was able to pull into a spot and pop the hood.
About a month ago the thermostat housing cracked and was replaced along with some other parts.
I cracked the cap on the degas bottle (that's the one up by the driver's side of the windshield right?)
And the system was pressurized, so I know there isn't a major leak.
One thing I've noticed is that it seems like the fan is running a lot more than before the repairs and is really loud.
Is it possible that they used the wrong thermostat?
Also, I'm planning on trying to drive it home, any suggestions to keep the temp down?
I'm thinking running with the heat on?
Seems like it just started as I got to the ticket booth entering the airport and then when I went to park.
I was able to pull into a spot and pop the hood.
About a month ago the thermostat housing cracked and was replaced along with some other parts.
I cracked the cap on the degas bottle (that's the one up by the driver's side of the windshield right?)
And the system was pressurized, so I know there isn't a major leak.
One thing I've noticed is that it seems like the fan is running a lot more than before the repairs and is really loud.
Is it possible that they used the wrong thermostat?
Also, I'm planning on trying to drive it home, any suggestions to keep the temp down?
I'm thinking running with the heat on?
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
i would see exactly what parts where replaced, you may still have a couple to do.
also i would try following the bleeding procedure above just to make sure that there is no trapped air in the system.
if the bleeding procedure was not done right when the thermostat was replaced, there could still be some air in the system (i would think that this wouldn't wait around a month before it was a problem)
if the bleeding procedure was done correctly and there is still any air trapped in the system, then yo still have a leak somewhere that need to be addressed.
also i would try following the bleeding procedure above just to make sure that there is no trapped air in the system.
if the bleeding procedure was not done right when the thermostat was replaced, there could still be some air in the system (i would think that this wouldn't wait around a month before it was a problem)
if the bleeding procedure was done correctly and there is still any air trapped in the system, then yo still have a leak somewhere that need to be addressed.
I need to review what was replaced.
I drove the car home from the airport with the heat fully blasting and the temp stayed just above the middle of the gauge.
I tried turning the ac on and down to 60 degrees and the temp started to rise. Heat back on and it fell back down.
I drove the car home from the airport with the heat fully blasting and the temp stayed just above the middle of the gauge.
I tried turning the ac on and down to 60 degrees and the temp started to rise. Heat back on and it fell back down.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Check your cooling fan to make sure it's drawing the proper amount of air across the radiator. And check that there's no airflow obstruction in the cooling system. It sounds almost like you might have sucked a plastic bag across the front of the radiator or something. Either that or the cooling fan motor is worn and is no longer allowing the fan to draw enough air across the rad. I don't know enough about the LS to know if there is enough ram air to keep it cool at speed or not without a little fan help.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
since it is a 2nd gen, the fan itself should be an issue (at least not common) if the car is running hot, you should have no problem hearing the fan running on high, i also recommend that you check for anything blocking air flow.
I need to look into this. It very well could be a blockage.
I drove the car to work on Friday and running the a/c around 70 degrees the engine temp came up to normal after about 4 miles and then rose a little before I got to work, about 3 miles later.
Turning the heat to 90 immediately lowered the engine temp back down to the middle of the gauge
I drove the car to work on Friday and running the a/c around 70 degrees the engine temp came up to normal after about 4 miles and then rose a little before I got to work, about 3 miles later.
Turning the heat to 90 immediately lowered the engine temp back down to the middle of the gauge
Ok, so I finally popped the hood and looked at the resevoir.
It was about 1/4 to 1/2 " low, so I filled it to the appropriate level.
I drove the car around the block with the a/c on 60 for about 10 minutes and the temp didn't go above normal.
This morning though on the way to work, again with the ac on 60 it finally started to creep up near the end of my 10 mile drive, most of which was highway 60-70mph driving.
And I checked and no blockage on the radiator.
What the heck could be causing the car to run fine and then start to creep up?
It was about 1/4 to 1/2 " low, so I filled it to the appropriate level.
I drove the car around the block with the a/c on 60 for about 10 minutes and the temp didn't go above normal.
This morning though on the way to work, again with the ac on 60 it finally started to creep up near the end of my 10 mile drive, most of which was highway 60-70mph driving.
And I checked and no blockage on the radiator.
What the heck could be causing the car to run fine and then start to creep up?
Curt, your symptoms sound similar to mine. I've checked the coolant levels - good. l
Last month I replaced the DCCV as I determined that was the culprit but is is still happening. I'm leaning toward the fan. My LS is a 2002 so its hydraulic. I do see it turning and it seems to moving a good amount of air. I just wonder if it starts and stops intermittently.
I've used the trick of turning the heat up to 90 and that does get the engine temp down. The funny thing is that I can drive 100's of miles at highway speeds and not have an over heating issue in hot weather with the air cond on full blast. Shortly after I switch to city driving it will overheat. I'm also going to change out the thermostat as a cheap fix. I'm not holding my breath that that is the solution.
One thing i noticed after i ply my "crank the heat up to 90" to get the engine temp down is that the passenger side vents sometimes continue to blow hot while the driver side blows cooler.
The intermittent nature of the problem makes it hard to pinpoint
mlara1129
Dedicated LVC Member
^ wow member since '04 and this is your first post???