Engine overheat?

LOL i was the 2nd visitor to his page... Welcome back?!??!

or

...there's a glitch in the Matrix
matrix-code-agents.gif
 


Reread post #2, some good possibilities especially the degas bottle if that has never been replaced. If your fan doesn't kick in high, your fan actuator may be bad.
 
^ wow member since '04 and this is your first post???
I lurk and glean plenty of good info without having to post superfluous redundant info. Ive fixed the ball joints wheel bearings and plenty of other things thanks to the support on this forum. This problem is a real pain that I need some help with. Just to rant, the design of the cooling system is terrible; poor design which is too complicated and uses inferior plastic parts -- enough said. Now onto fix it
 
Checked out post #2 and checked fluid level in reservoir which was low by about an inch below min level. Another question; owner manual says "Mercon" and specifically not to mix "mercon" and "Mercon V". I have a quart of Mercon V that says it replaced "Mercon" - leave it to automotive engineers to totally confuse us. Going to top it off and see if that was the issue.
BUT, I experience one side blowing hot and the other blowing cool.
Further FYI: I did the DTAC test and got no codes
 
Still over heating without much change. I'm down to two possible causes, the hydraulic fan or the thermostat. Is there any way to tell if the fan is not kicking into high?
 
yes, watch it. you should also be able to hear that it is on high, a fast moving fan is much louder than a slow moving fan.


if it was the fan, i would think that it shouldn't over heat at higher speeds, there should be enough airflow through the grille to cool the radiator down enough, since you are experiencing this, it very well may be your problem.
 
Still over heating without much change. I'm down to two possible causes, the hydraulic fan or the thermostat. Is there any way to tell if the fan is not kicking into high?

Unless it has been changed recently, which still is no guarantee, the thermostat would have been the first place I would have addressed along with making sure the system is bled properly.

I am interested to see what ends up being the culprit.
 
Rocket, shouldn't be a problem with the fluid. MerconV is synthetic, MerconIII is dino. Check the rad fan with the A/C on and the A/C off. There should be a dramatic difference in fan speed. If not, the pump actuator is usually at fault. When that fails, the fan will run at low, but the actuator doesn't free up for high pressure. That's an easy to replace part, but costs somewhere over $100.
If the fan does change speeds, then it's back to standard cooling system diagnosis - leaks, can't maintain pressure, blockage, water pump, thermostat, etc.
 
Well guys, looks like it is worst case scenario.

The place that replaced all the coolant parts has tested everything and couldn't find anything.

So they did a block test and it looks like a blown headgasket...sh*t.

So now I have to figure out what to do since that's going to be expensive to fix relative to the value of the car.
 
Well guys, looks like it is worst case scenario.

The place that replaced all the coolant parts has tested everything and couldn't find anything.

So they did a block test and it looks like a blown headgasket...sh*t.

So now I have to figure out what to do since that's going to be expensive to fix relative to the value of the car.

Do you have white smoke exiting your tailpipes? That is a sign of a blown head gasket. This is the first example of a blown head gasket I've heard about.
 
I have seen blown head gaskets that never had any smoke or coolant in the oil. It very well could be burning off in the cylinder. Does the exhaust smell sweet? Did they check the overflow or whatever the hell you guys call it for exhaust gases?
 
I don't know where exactly they checked.

But I asked my sister in law who followed me to the shop, and she said she didn't see any smoke.
 
I would want some kind of proof. Is this a reputable shop? Does the mechanic have the same hair-do as Pauly D? Many a folks have tried to feed unsuspecting suckers a bullchit sandwich.
 
Well, the shop who did the test and told me there was exhaust gas in the coolant told me they didn't have the capacity to do the work right now, so i'm thinking they're not trying anything fishy. I mean if they wanted the business you'd think they would make room for a big job like this.
 
Well guys, looks like it is worst case scenario.

The place that replaced all the coolant parts has tested everything and couldn't find anything.

So they did a block test and it looks like a blown headgasket...sh*t.

So now I have to figure out what to do since that's going to be expensive to fix relative to the value of the car.

What did they replace before? Get all the part numbers and compare them with the diagrams in this thread. If they didn't replace most of the plastic, you may have more broken plastic pieces allowing air in and leaking fluid. I would go to a different shop and get a second opinion.
 
so would a small air leak cause the symptoms I have?

driving <10 miles, a/c on 60, no problem.

Right around the 10 mile mark the temp creeps up.

I need to find the full report, but I know for sure they replaced the thermostat housing and the thermostat, and the thermostat housing cap.

Not sure if any hoses were replaced.

I know the degas bottle and cap were not replaced.
 
Any air in the system will cause overheating. However, if there are exhaust gases in the coolant....you are fvcked. I would just find a used JY engine. Prolly be cheaper. At least it is with a 4.6. I don't know a whole lot about 3.9 and I don't wanna know. Too many problems.
 
so would a small air leak cause the symptoms I have?

driving <10 miles, a/c on 60, no problem.

Right around the 10 mile mark the temp creeps up.

I need to find the full report, but I know for sure they replaced the thermostat housing and the thermostat, and the thermostat housing cap.

Not sure if any hoses were replaced.

I know the degas bottle and cap were not replaced.

The degas bottle develops hairline cracks not allowing the system to pressurize. Have you noticed any fluid on the ground behind the driver's wheel?
 
philly0420 said:
don't know a whole lot about 3.9 and I don't wanna know. Too many problems.

There's nothing wrong with the engine. It's just the plastic parts get brittle over time/heat cycles.
 
The degas bottle develops hairline cracks not allowing the system to pressurize. Have you noticed any fluid on the ground behind the driver's wheel?

I'm picking up the car tomorrow, so i'll check that.

Other system is that when the heat is on, the temp stays normal.
 
There's nothing wrong with the engine. It's just the plastic parts get brittle over time/heat cycles.

And tensioners that are plastic and the tendency to chuck coils and the gen1 fan abortion. Really Ford should have just used the 4.6 instead of some destroked jag bullchit. I can deal with the marks poorly designed bullchit but the ls is too much.
 
ive had both, and in the time that it takes to replace one airstrut or compressor, you can change all of the coils and plugs.
 
And tensioners that are plastic and the tendency to chuck coils and the gen1 fan abortion. Really Ford should have just used the 4.6 instead of some destroked jag bullchit. I can deal with the marks poorly designed bullchit but the ls is too much.

Maybe you should apply to FOMOCO as an engineer. Like I said, the plastic parts. The hydraulic fan was actually a very smart design to an electrical load issue. The 4.6 wouldn't fit from the bottom and it had cooling issues (see the OLOA LS). Obviously you are a Mark guy. Spread your hate there. There is a reason I have 3 LSes in my garage; one a 2000 V6 with just under 180K miles. My '06 will turn over 100K next week.
 

Members online

No members online now.
Back
Top