2002WRXSTi
Dedicated LVC Member
Love seeing this project going together 
F100
- Thread starter SATURN5
- Start date
danny_holtermann
Dedicated LVC Member
Ive been gone awhile, but damn this looks like an awesome project. great work Bob
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Thanks. After having a fight with the driver's side spindle, she's back on all fours.
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Put the bed on for fun, get and idea of "final" height. With 580lbs added.
My gut says the fronts gonna lose a coil.....
My gut says the fronts gonna lose a coil.....
Markviiiedrea
Speed Bump
I see you found a use for a teenager.
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Three actually. Two in the bed are mine. John 15, and Jr 16.
Two in the bed are mine. John 15, and Jr 16.
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Modified the clutch assembly to use a cable. Extended the shaft 3 inches, made a spacer, check for fit. Not my final piece, but now I know it works, replacing the plastic "bushings" with bearings, and making a new longer arm to catch the second hole in the quadrant.
Nosjunke
Active LVC Member
Any updates? I got the FE 360 motor out and am ordering some of the pieces I need for the swap like fuel pump, etc...Looking to see what you're doing.
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Of course....
Clutch assembly bearing upgrade and conversion to cable.
Will need some 5/8" dia rod, some 1" rod, two 5/8" flat washers, some schedule 40 1 1/2" pipe (1 3/8" id), two 5/8" ID/ 1 3/8" OD bearings with external snap ring. These can be found on ebay cheap. A Fox Mustang aftermarket quadrant. Some flat stock and 1/2" rod.
Drill the pivot hole on the quadrant to 5/8" id, make the shaft extender and spacer per below. I'm not the greatest explainer as most of what I do is on the fly... But everyone gets pictures.
Knock out the original "bearings" from the pedal mount.
Bearings are 5/8" ID/1 3/8" OD with external snap ring. Bearing rings are .310" thick.
Weld rings on center on both sides.
Weld 5/8" flat washers as spacers on the inside.
Blasted the parts, painting..
Modified clutch arm. Extended to catch quadrant, 1/2" dia rod/stud.
Spacer for extended shaft. Shaft extension 3 3/4" drill and tapped to thread on the original shaft, welded with flats matching original shaft. Either make from scratch or from second clutch pedal. Spacer is 2 1/2" long.
Antisieze lube on original plastic brake pedal.
Completed pedal assembly.
I'm using a firewall adjuster, pretty self explanatory...
Clutch assembly bearing upgrade and conversion to cable.
Will need some 5/8" dia rod, some 1" rod, two 5/8" flat washers, some schedule 40 1 1/2" pipe (1 3/8" id), two 5/8" ID/ 1 3/8" OD bearings with external snap ring. These can be found on ebay cheap. A Fox Mustang aftermarket quadrant. Some flat stock and 1/2" rod.
Drill the pivot hole on the quadrant to 5/8" id, make the shaft extender and spacer per below. I'm not the greatest explainer as most of what I do is on the fly... But everyone gets pictures.
Knock out the original "bearings" from the pedal mount.
Bearings are 5/8" ID/1 3/8" OD with external snap ring. Bearing rings are .310" thick.
Weld rings on center on both sides.
Weld 5/8" flat washers as spacers on the inside.
Blasted the parts, painting..
Modified clutch arm. Extended to catch quadrant, 1/2" dia rod/stud.
Spacer for extended shaft. Shaft extension 3 3/4" drill and tapped to thread on the original shaft, welded with flats matching original shaft. Either make from scratch or from second clutch pedal. Spacer is 2 1/2" long.
Antisieze lube on original plastic brake pedal.
Completed pedal assembly.
I'm using a firewall adjuster, pretty self explanatory...
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Mustang starter switch....
Original trans cross member set the trans up too high, so once setting the driveline angle -3 degrees.... I whipped one out...
Original trans cross member set the trans up too high, so once setting the driveline angle -3 degrees.... I whipped one out...
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
So I wanted Cobra brakes.....
First is the hub is stepped, with the wheel end the same diameter as Mustang, but at the rotor, was larger for some reason. The Cobra rotor would not sit flush with the hub face. So, press the hub assembly out of the spindle, was a pain due to corrosion, pressed out the studs and chucked it in my lathe. A couple passes later, press the studs back in and on to the next issue. The caliper cradle bolt spacing is different in length and diameter. This required some .566" diameter plugs be made and pressed into the spindle.
Machining the plugs flush with the spindle.
Set the cradle in the correct location and scribed the outline of the spindle on the cradle. Removed the rotor, set the cradle back on the scribe marks and clamped in place. Marked the centers with a center punch dowel, checked my spacing, setup the spindle in the mill and drilled the new holes.
And here we have the cradle bolted to the modified spindle.
Needed to space the cradle toward the rotor to center. A simple washer was perfect. I need to order up the correct bolts and hardened washers to finish, but I've got my big brakes....
Marauder guys, eat your hearts out....
First is the hub is stepped, with the wheel end the same diameter as Mustang, but at the rotor, was larger for some reason. The Cobra rotor would not sit flush with the hub face. So, press the hub assembly out of the spindle, was a pain due to corrosion, pressed out the studs and chucked it in my lathe. A couple passes later, press the studs back in and on to the next issue. The caliper cradle bolt spacing is different in length and diameter. This required some .566" diameter plugs be made and pressed into the spindle.
Machining the plugs flush with the spindle.
Set the cradle in the correct location and scribed the outline of the spindle on the cradle. Removed the rotor, set the cradle back on the scribe marks and clamped in place. Marked the centers with a center punch dowel, checked my spacing, setup the spindle in the mill and drilled the new holes.
And here we have the cradle bolted to the modified spindle.
Needed to space the cradle toward the rotor to center. A simple washer was perfect. I need to order up the correct bolts and hardened washers to finish, but I've got my big brakes....
Marauder guys, eat your hearts out....
lobird91
Well-Known LVC Member
Awesome work
-Alan
-Alan
93mkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
Wow, takes a lot of time and hard work to pull something like this off. Best of luck.
98BLKLSC
Active LVC Member
Loving the project! Makes me miss my 78 F100.
Nosjunke
Active LVC Member
Still hoping for more updates...I'm Jonesing over here....I haven't started mine yet as my Lincoln was in an accident and I had to put a little money in her to keep her on the road. My F100 still sits in the garage waiting patiently...
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Nothing much to report, both spindles are modified and I put new ball joints in, replaced the inner tie rods. Been busy building up a Cobra IRS for a friend.
and the XJ my son bought last Sunday, kissed a pole last night... He's had his license two weeks, bought his first car and mashed it up in five days. He's fine, but we've got some work to put it back together again.
and the XJ my son bought last Sunday, kissed a pole last night... He's had his license two weeks, bought his first car and mashed it up in five days. He's fine, but we've got some work to put it back together again.
Nosjunke
Active LVC Member
I know the feeling on the crashed car. I helped my sister-in-law practice and took her to get her license. She passed on try number 2. First day on her own after not even 30minutes on the road she pulled out in front of oncoming traffic. Smashed up my Mk VIII good and totalled the guys 2010Corolla. Glad your son is okay.
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Got my steering sorted out.
75 F100 auto steering column that I have. Rebuilding it as a "manual" column, +98 Mustang steering column u joint and steering shaft. Ground the F100 column to match the +98 u joint which bolts on per factory.
A buddy gave my a pile of parts left over from his Termi swap into his 27K mile Bullitt.... rack, lines, complete A/C setup, radiator the steering shaft.
Checking the radiator for fit, only needs the lower mount narrowed so it will slide. Build lower mounts using +98 biscuits and modify the +98 Mustang uppers.
Need to rework the lower side where it's just a bit wide.
75 F100 auto steering column that I have. Rebuilding it as a "manual" column, +98 Mustang steering column u joint and steering shaft. Ground the F100 column to match the +98 u joint which bolts on per factory.
A buddy gave my a pile of parts left over from his Termi swap into his 27K mile Bullitt.... rack, lines, complete A/C setup, radiator the steering shaft.
Checking the radiator for fit, only needs the lower mount narrowed so it will slide. Build lower mounts using +98 biscuits and modify the +98 Mustang uppers.
Need to rework the lower side where it's just a bit wide.
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Steering 2.0
Mustang shaft didn't work out with the flex joint and two u joints. Picked up a 2004-8 F150 steering shaft as it has the correct ends, but was a bit short. A little shop magic later.....
Mustang shaft didn't work out with the flex joint and two u joints. Picked up a 2004-8 F150 steering shaft as it has the correct ends, but was a bit short. A little shop magic later.....
Nosjunke
Active LVC Member
Getting ready to pull the lincoln motor and trans and wanted to see if there has been any further progress/issues/etc..
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Not much. Been busy helping my son repair his XJ. Got the cab stripped, got my hydroboost lines, realized I needed more clearance at the firewall so I've cut/folded/welded in a "pocket/recess". Funds have been a bit tight here as of late...
Stangman
Project car a.d.d.
Have you found cobra manifolds yet Bob? Or are you going to try and find some used headers?
SATURN5
Dr. Frankenstang
Yeah, cobra manifolds. Looks like I'm going to have to cut a scallop (half moon) out of the top of the frame rail on the pass side for x pipe clearance, but I haven't got that far...
Stangman
Project car a.d.d.
Cool. I had to do some bending of the dipstick tube on my '93 to get my cobra manifolds to fit. They hug the block a lot more than the stock drivers side manifold. It will always sit against the manifold unfortunately it looks like. Not sure how I feel about that.