Cool to see you guys interested in this and thanks for the compliments.
A few more pics.
From left to right: clear ( no black coloring at all), light tint ( about 1/30 of a drop), dark tint ( 1/4 of a drop ), super dark tint ( 1 full drop).
I can for sure do a level of tint in between light and dark, maybe 2. Its concetrated coloring, I just stuck a small flat head screw driver over the drop to just collect a little bit of coloring. I was planing on having a little system to get similar amount of coloring, maybe tooth picks or allen keys. It would be like, " I want 2 tooth picks of tint"
![Big Grin :D :D](data:image/gif;base64,R0lGODlhAQABAIAAAAAAAP///yH5BAEAAAAALAAAAAABAAEAAAIBRAA7)
More on that later.
Also, I would not suggest going with one drop of tint, too dark and it seems like its just too much coloring to get a clean shiny surface. If you really want that much tint, I'll give it another try and see if I can get better results.
More pics at different angles to see the tint. The top of the 2 darker reflectors still have part of the funnel, since they were just for tint testing, I didn't bother to really clean that part up.
Here is a failed mold of the gen1 reflectors. I didnt make the mold under pressure so if I were to not cast under pressure it would be ok. Since I need a bubble free part with the clear, I need to cast under pressure. The bubbles that were left in the mold once it dried, when placed under pressure, got compressed and left all these holes after the mold came out of the pressure pot. I was pissed, 100 dollars down the drain right there.Good thing I didnt throw it away though because I found a way to use these as fillers to save on silicone for each mold. I recently started making the molds under pressure, compressing the bubbles while it dries so when it goes back under pressure once dried, the bubbles are already compressed and it wont alter the mold. Now that I bought the vacuum pump, I can take most of the air out and I will have less bubbles to deal with so everything will be easier and better.
Also, when casting, I also place the resin under vacuum to remove as much air as possible before casting under pressure. With this, I have noticed the the level/volume of the resin does not drop nearly as much under pressure since there is very little air left to be compressed. This will make casting easier as well.
For andrizzle- Here is a pic of my mold making supplies box.
The molds at the top are failed attemps. The thin, dark pink mold is the mold for the gen2 reflector, the one behind that is one for the gen1 reflector, the gen1 side marker front was in the pressure pot, and I still haven't demolded the gen1 side marker backing. I will probably do molds for all of them again for the final products now that I am well equiped for replicating parts. I now have a vacuum, pressure/vacuum pot, and oven for post curing.
Pressure pot, it's actually a paint pressure pot from harbor freight tools. I was not going to buy a casting pressure pot for about 300 bucks when this pot holds pressure also and is only 100 bucks. I found other mold making guys using this one so i went with it too. The vacuum pump, I also got from harbor freight tool, 130, pulls more than enough vacuum to degas silicone and resin. There was a pressure/vacuum pot with compressor/vacuum combo all in one from this one company, 795 + shipping, no way! I just bought myself a toater oven today for post curing, 35 bucks. I definitely have more than 1k already invested in this and will go spend a few more bucks tomorrow for more silicone and clear resin.
I doubt I will even get close to breaking even, but I do not regret doing this for me and for you guys, it was a great learning experience. Doing non clear parts is a lot simpler than clear parts, so now that I am confident I can do good quality clear parts, I'm sure I can and will do more parts in the future either for my own cars or as a hobby/summer "job".
Gen1 backing mold
All the clamps I also had to buy