GenII LS8 Cooling System Overhaul

Just thought I would add a couple of tips to this wonderful thread based on my full cooling system overhaul today.

  1. Buy a set of crow's foot wrenches if you don't already have them. It is darn near impossible to get the back two bolts on the 9N499 thermostat housing connector if you don't have a set. (I went with the method of not pulling the intake)
  2. Worm drive hose clamps. Buy them and use them. After the first full bleed and on the first test drive, the spring clamp on the upper radiator hose at the thermostat housing let go and puked $30 worth of G05 coolant all over the roadway!
 
I am just about ready to order all of these parts and do the overhaul - I have been adding a small amount of coolant bi-monthly since the fall, and it is finally warm enough to tackle in the garage. I am hoping that the labor is similar or even easier than coils and plugs, which I had to do (twice) last year ((the result of trying to replace only 2 plugs instead of all 8 at once - stupid))... anyways, my question is this: I have been through as many of the coolant threads as I can find, and I have not noticed anyone with the same "leak spot" that I am experiencing. It seems my leak is under the passenger side, center of the tires. Any idea what specific part that may be? Will it be obvious what part is bad once I have pulled all of them out? Just curious... the other thing I notice is that the drivers side of the engine cover seems to be damp or greasy, where the rest of the engine cover is dry and shows dust. Could this be related? Thanks so much - this site has helped me through a Mark VII, 2 Mark VIIIs and my LS.

2006 LS, 110k
 
Fundy1842 said:
I am hoping that the labor is similar or even easier than coils and plugs,
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Not even close. Coils and plugs can be done blindfolded, (even with a couple challenging coil cover bolts. Cooling system rebuild is a bit more challenging, depending on how in depth you go. Might even entail removing the intake manifold, (depending on how you do it).
 
Fundy1842 said:
... It seems my leak is under the passenger side, center of the tires. Any idea what specific part that may be? ...
Click to expand...

Maybe the radiator, the DCCV, or the aux pump.

Fundy1842 said:
... the other thing I notice is that the drivers side of the engine cover seems to be damp or greasy, where the rest of the engine cover is dry and shows dust. ...
Click to expand...

The appearance cover over the intake, or the valve cover? If the valve cover, then probably the VCT seal on that side (might as well do both sides though) needs to be replaced.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Quote Ima:

" and I have to agree, even though the cooling system and the TB have really been the only issues, but they always seem to happen at the most inopportune times!"

Have you ever really know ANY vehicle to break down at an opportune time??? :)
Click to expand...

very true...My insurance claims on tows is in the double digits in my lifetime!
 
04_Sport_LS said:
Not even close. Coils and plugs can be done blindfolded, (even with a couple challenging coil cover bolts. Cooling system rebuild is a bit more challenging, depending on how in depth you go. Might even entail removing the intake manifold, (depending on how you do it).
Click to expand...

yup, that degas bottle removal will have you creating your own vocabulary that NO ONE wants to learn if you still have the factory hose clamps! The thermostat housing is easier, IMO...

my DCCV is on order and in transit...I let the battery go dead nad when I replaced the degas bottle this time, no A/C...HVAC self-diagnostic code 12-42, but usually this means the DCCV is bad, despite the code's actual definition: "air inlet door fault"...

...actually, it was joegr on another forum that said:
"1242 is an air inlet door fault. It wouldn't be related to the cold/hot problem, and it may not be a problem at all. The LS seems to be easy to set false failure codes for the air doors.
Your problem with temperature control is almost certainly that your DCCV is failed (mechanically, not electrically). Replace the DCCV, and it'll probably correct the problem."
 
To me... the degas didn't seem too bad. Once the cowl brace is out of the way,,, it's just a matter of having the right tools... and the "eye" of how to approach it.

Most people have issues with snapping the bolts on the cowl brace. A little "soak time" with some PB Blaster... and a propane torch,,, makes pretty easy work of that part.
 
04_Sport_LS said:
To me... the degas didn't seem too bad. Once the cowl brace is out of the way,,, it's just a matter of having the right tools... and the "eye" of how to approach it.

Most people have issues with snapping the bolts on the cowl brace. A little "soak time" with some PB Blaster... and a propane torch,,, makes pretty easy work of that part.
Click to expand...


I would say the basic owner who has decided to go the DIY route after some time passing paying others to fix (and expired warranty) probably does not have all the right "tools" initially...my toolbox has expanded exponentially in the last 10 years! (that happens when you have room in the garage to store them and are too cheap to pay someone else for mid-level repairs you know are less technical, but just a PITA and time consuming to perform yourself)...
 
Ima Luthier said:
... my toolbox has expanded exponentially in the last 10 years! ...
Click to expand...

Pretty sure no toolbox should be swelling up like that unless it's made of cardboard and somehow got wet.

Perhaps check your warranty on Manufacturer defects :p
.
 
RigsLS said:
Pretty sure no toolbox should be swelling up like that unless it's made of cardboard and somehow got wet.

Perhaps check your warranty on Manufacturer defects :p
.
Click to expand...

I should have expected the comedians coming out to play! :rolleyes::p It houses a lot of my tools for home improvements and other projects as well...
 
Well I can say that over the last 30+ years... my box has grown appendages and the drawers are getting fuller. It may not look like much... But i'd bet the replacement value would be over $10K.
 
Ima Luthier said:
I should have expected the comedians coming out to play! :rolleyes::p It houses a lot of my tools for home improvements and other projects as well...
Click to expand...

Your collection of tools has grown, box you put them in can not get any larger unless you go buy a bigger one.
 
RigsLS said:
Your collection of tools has grown, box you put them in can not get any larger unless you go buy a bigger one.
Click to expand...
wrong! after I filled up my 48" box, it grew 17" and 9 more drawers. never bough a bigger tool box... just a smaller add-on. :cool:
 
1LoudLS said:
wrong! after I filled up my 48" box, it grew 17" and 9 more drawers. never bough a bigger tool box... just a smaller add-on. :cool:
Click to expand...


well, now THERE's a workaround! Like a building addition, and the toolbox actually grew! :p
 
Ima Luthier said:
Oh good grief, you're a literal one, aren't you?
Click to expand...

Whatever you please, just stating the facts. Literal or not, tool boxes do not grow. Can add water or more tools, box still stays same in size.



1LoudLS said:
wrong! after I filled up my 48" box, it grew 17" and 9 more drawers. never bough a bigger tool box... just a smaller add-on. :cool:
Click to expand...

Also living in a fantasy world where tool boxes magically expand in sizes all by themselves.

Eventually you'll see it my way. Tool box itself will always stay the same in size. If you have more tools then box, you'll have to go buy a bigger tool box or in your case an "add-on".


#MagicalGrowingToolboxes

559a41f1458b55eba1f6f60050eab565.jpg
 
now you're just trolling, egging..."literal or NOT" ("NOT" is figurative, where we are speaking)...we WERE having a good time and a laugh, but now you just kill the atmosphere
 
Ha, ok well I'm glad you were able to point that out to me.
Particularly enjoy the part where you need to make reference to "trolling".

Fn awesome you are!
 
1LoudLS said:
wrong! after I filled up my 48" box, it grew 17" and 9 more drawers. never bough a bigger tool box... just a smaller add-on. :cool:
Click to expand...


Agreed. My main rollaround started at 3 ft tall,,, and after all of the appendages... it is now 6 ft tall and almost as wide and has sliding trays in some of the drawers.

Then again,,, there is the smaller rollaround and top chest in the basement... and the third top chest on the workbench in the garage. It never ends... :rolleyes:
 
I plan on doing a complete overhaul next week. I already changed the water pump and thermostat earlier this month. Car is at 191k, 2005 Lincoln LS V8 sport.

In my case, I would just need the new degas bottle, and all the plastic fittings +,hoses?
 
Marcus101 said:
...In my case, I would just need the new degas bottle, and all the plastic fittings +,hoses?
Click to expand...

Plus the water outlet pipe, crossover tube, and seals. You need everything that is in this thread minus anything replaced in the last year or three (that wasn't aftermarket).
 
joegr said:
Plus the water outlet pipe, crossover tube, and seals. You need everything that is in this thread minus anything replaced in the last year or three (that wasn't aftermarket).
Click to expand...
I'm changing the upper radiator hose tomorrow. Which part number is the water outlet pipe? I checked the 2006 Lincoln LS work shop manual and i don't see it.
 
Marcus101 said:
I'm changing the upper radiator hose tomorrow. Which part number is the water outlet pipe? I checked the 2006 Lincoln LS work shop manual and i don't see it.
Click to expand...
It's all in this thread.
2W9Z-9N499-AC
 
Purchased an 04 V8 with 57K miles its at 61K now, love the car but its over heated on me once because I was low on coolant. Ever since I've been keeping an eye on it and I have to top it off every other day it seems. DCCV code of 27 98 and no air condition on drivers side, circuit short on drivers side solenoid. I thought it was leaking coolant from the DCCV but reading this thread makes me feel like I should go with replacing all the plastic parts. I could probably do the repairs my self if I had proper tools but I will probably end up buying all the parts and have my mechanic do the install.

What website did you guys end up going with for the cheapest OEM parts?
Thanks any advice would be great.
 
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