Heater blows cold air

thank god for this website i'm having the same problem with my 2000 ls6 and i'm going to try the code test then bleed it
 
so i passed with the test so i guess i have to bleed it hopefully this is the issue
 
Tried using the search function to find some help, this seemed to be closest to my problem.

I ran the diagnostic test as recommended and get two fault codes, (16 46) and (24 77). I noticed there seemed to be a link to a code map earlier in the post but all I see now is a red X, anyone have any ideas what these codes are?

The problmes I'm having are that the heater takes forever to blow warm air (start for 10 minutes before leaving in the morning, then drive 10 minutes and it's just starting to blow warm air.) I also only get heat on my passenger side vents, the driver's side is all cold air.

Any help or insight is appreciated. Just when I think I can do some more mods to this thing, it's time to do more repair work. Awesome!! :mad:
 
... Now this morning the car starts to overheat during my trip in to work. Guess I'll try bleeding the coolant system and go from there. Given the heating system code I'm only assuming that there is still a problem. One step at a time I guess?
 
1646 - Not listed in my 2004 service manual.
2477 - Module configuration failure. The manual doesn't say what to do about this other than "reconfigure the DATC module."
 
joegr, thanks for the reply, didn't even see this here.

I have been driving my girls WRX since the car stated acting up, just haven't had a chance to look at this thing.

Anyone had any experience with this fault code or resetting the DATC? Likely going to take a night this week when it's not freezing and bleed the system.

Thanks in advance folks.
 
Is it at all possible that the 1646 code was really a 1946 code? That one would fit with the problem described. Of course, a bad DCCV also fits with your problem.
 
In an attempt to fix the 24 77 code, which sounded as though it needed a reset, I pulled the negative terminal to the battery. Let it sit about 10 minutes, and ran the diag test again. Confirmed the two codes - 16 76, and 24 77. I didn't have the chance to bleed the system last night, but these fault codes won't be caused by an air bubble.

joegr, thanks for offering some help, any listing of this 16 76 code?
 
Okay, that's a little different. You started out with 1646 and 2477.
You now have 1676 and 2477

2477 is still the strange module not configured correctly code. I gather that it takes dealer equipment to reprogram the module. I don't think a hard reset will make any difference.

1676 - is a valid code. It is "Battery Voltage Out of Range." There are no suggested actions in the service manual to verify or fix this concern. I assume it is just what it says and you need to check the battery voltage. I would suspect that they want it to be between 12.6 and 14.8 volts.
 
This sounds like this can get fun. I guess I'm going to look into what this will take to get right with the dealer. joegr, thanks again for all the help. I have no idea when the time will be alright to get this pile into the dealer, but I will try to update with what my findings are.
 
Have been reading lots of postings about the intermitent heating, no heat at idle and have not found the problem on my 2005 LS 6. I would like know if anybody replaced the DCCT (Dual Coolant Control Valve) on a 6 cylinder car and if it solved any problems.
Also for what it is worth the 6 cylinder models do not have the auxciliary coolant pump only the 8 cylinder models have.
 
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Got some more sometimes conflicting information on the DCCV.
As I mentioned before I unplugged the electric connector and got full heat so I was sure the DCCV was the cause but got some information that the DCCV was not the problem so I plugged the DCCV connecter in again and the system seem to work again but sometimes the right hand side blows warmer than the left hand side this in the center console. So I decided to change the DCCV as I am not sure it is working properly. Got some very interesting information from a member who took the DCCV apart (lots of pictures) and also some information that the valves in the DCCV would receive variable voltages to let in more or less coolant, I am not so sure about this and could not find anything about this in the factory 2005 wiring manual.
What I did notice that the DCCV was making a clicking sound so this makes me believe it cuts in and out depending on the heat settings.
 
Decided after checking lots of websites and drawing my own confusions to start changing the DCCV and replacing the coolant at the same time.
Will take the old one apart and see if there was anything wrong with it
There are lot of treads about the LS cooling system and lots of problems too.
Tried the trick with the buttons to get a self diagnostic reading but apperently this does not seem to work on my 2005 LS 6 cylinder so I will do as the stealership does and replace parts untill the system works properly.
 
Jake Houtop said:
Tried the trick with the buttons to get a self diagnostic reading but apperently this does not seem to work on my 2005 LS 6 cylinder so I will do as the stealership does and replace parts untill the system works properly.
Click to expand...

Sure it does. The procedure is a little different for gen II.

The DATC module self-test through the front panel display:

* can be initiated at any time. Normal operation of the system stops when the self-test is activated.
* is entered by pressing the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously and then pressing the AUTO button within 2 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed.
* concludes by reporting all on-demand DTCs. Follow the diagnostics procedure given under ACTION in the DTC index for each DTC given.
* reports individual on-demand DTCs as 4-digit DTCs (less the alpha character).
* will calibrate all the mode doors and check all analog inputs. The DATC module will only report on-demand (hard) faults that occurred while the DATC module was conducting its self-test.
* will light all control panel display segments if no faults are detected.
* will report individual on-demand DTCs without the °C symbol lit.

To exit the self-test, press the DEFROST button. This will clear all on-demand codes from the DATC module memory. If no button is pushed, DTCs will continue to be displayed.

Upon exit from the self-test the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.

ontinuous DTCs are fault codes recorded by the DATC module which have occurred during normal operation. For the DATC module this means that all faults (intermittent or hard) that occur while the module is in an operational state shall be reported as a continuous DTC.

* To retrieve continuous DTCs, press the OFF and DEFROST buttons simultaneously, followed by pressing the RECIRC button within 2 seconds.
* The DATC module will report all continuous DTCs to the vacuum fluorescent (VF) display.
* The DATC module will not carry out a self-test; it will only display continuous faults codes which are stored in memory.
* All VF display segments will light if no faults are detected.
* Individual continuous DTCs will be reported with the °C symbol lit.
* DTCs shall be reported as a 4-digit DTC (less the alpha character).
* Pressing the front DEFROST button will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and clear all continuous DTCs from DATC module memory.
* Pressing any other button (other than DEFROST) will exit the retrieve continuous DTCs mode and maintain all continuous DTCs in DATC module memory.
* Upon exit from the retrieve continuous DTCs mode the DATC module returns to operational status. The DATC module executes a hard (cold boot) reset which places the DATC system in the OFF mode.
 
Hi joegr. Tried to see if this self test works but no luck with any combination so I gave up. Just to come back to the operation of the DCCV I cannot seem to find anytning about variable voltages on this valve so I believe it cycles trough off-on depending on the EATC module
 
Jake Houtop said:
Hi joegr. Tried to see if this self test works but no luck with any combination so I gave up. Just to come back to the operation of the DCCV I cannot seem to find anytning about variable voltages on this valve so I believe it cycles trough off-on depending on the EATC module
Click to expand...

I don't know why you can't get into the self-test, but I can give some detail on the control of the DCCV.
The climate control uses a technique called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) to vary the amount of water flow. Basically, it just turns the current to the valve on and off very quickly. It varies from on all the time for no flow all the way to off all the time for maximum flow.

Never say never, but your case sounds like one of those rare ones where the valve is not the problem. If you get full heat every time you disconnect the valve, and don't get full heat when connected, then it is probably not the valve.


I guess it could still be the valve if it is shorted in just the right way (unlikely). Do you have a DMM? Set it to the resistance setting. Disconnect the connector at the DCCV. (Key off for all of this.) Measure the resistance between the metal ground of the car and each of the three contacts on the DCCV connector. (The one of the valve, not the one on the wiring harness.) You should read overrange for all three measurements. (Make sure you aren't touching both probes or you will read your body resistance instead.

I have seen cases with the LS where it was one of the climate control temperature sensors that was the problem, and not the DCCV. It really sounds like your DCCV is functioning correctly.
 
joegr said:
I don't know why you can't get into the self-test, but I can give some detail on the control of the DCCV.
The climate control uses a technique called Pulse Width Modulation (PWM) to vary the amount of water flow. Basically, it just turns the current to the valve on and off very quickly. It varies from on all the time for no flow all the way to off all the time for maximum flow.

Never say never, but your case sounds like one of those rare ones where the valve is not the problem. If you get full heat every time you disconnect the valve, and don't get full heat when connected, then it is probably not the valve.


I guess it could still be the valve if it is shorted in just the right way (unlikely). Do you have a DMM? Set it to the resistance setting. Disconnect the connector at the DCCV. (Key off for all of this.) Measure the resistance between the metal ground of the car and each of the three contacts on the DCCV connector. (The one of the valve, not the one on the wiring harness.) You should read overrange for all three measurements. (Make sure you aren't touching both probes or you will read your body resistance instead.

I have seen cases with the LS where it was one of the climate control temperature sensors that was the problem, and not the DCCV. It really sounds like your DCCV is functioning correctly.
Click to expand...


Hi again. Yes I fully agree here about the working of the DCCV the reason I questioned it is that in my wiring manual it looked like either on or off. (PWM)
I did have some problem in the beginning by different temperatures coming out of the center outlet but after reading that by setting the temp. to max. and than to min. somebody on the forum got it working properly again. It does seem to work fine for me now too but I ordered a new valve from Max so I will change it and the coolant just to make sure. Today it was minus 22 degrees Celcius so good thing I have lots of heat. Thank you for your messages. Have a grreat week-end. Jacob Houtop :D
 
Be aware that there is two different self test procedure for the later 2003-2006 Lincoln LS's. One is for the cars with heated and cooled seats. And a different procedure if you don't have the A/C seats.
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clubairth said:
Be aware that there is two different self test procedure for the later 2003-2006 Lincoln LS's. One is for the cars with heated and cooled seats. And a different procedure if you don't have the A/C seats.
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Click to expand...

Hi. Can you explain the different checks so I can try them.
TIA Jake ;) ;) ;)
 
Heat

jslagter said:
I am having the same problem with no heat in my 2002 LS. Has anyone actually found a solution to this problem?
Click to expand...

There are lots of solutions to this sometimes difficult to diagnose problem but you have to search this forum and draw your own conclusions. :eek:
 
I found mine had a compression leak cause i had that problem, i sent it to the ford dealership and they found a leak in the compression line.
 
heater blowing cold air/Rattling near transmission

Hello, I have a 2000 Lincoln LS V8. I have done just about every step that has been mentioned on this heater blowing out cold air issue. I did the test and got 88.8/188.8 which means i passed. Just replaced the radiator and bleed the coolant 3-4 times to make sure there was no more air in the system. I keep running the heat in the car and gradually its getting warmer (well atleast i think). Any idea's? I've had some issues with this car since i got it a couple of months ago. Also have some grinding/rattling noise near the exhaust and transmission. I thought it was the cat's, got both replaced spent $600+ and still grinding/rattling noise. I'm conviced its probably got something to do with the trans. Any help will be appreciated!
 
Jonathan said:
Hello, I have a 2000 Lincoln LS V8. I have done just about every step that has been mentioned on this heater blowing out cold air issue. I did the test and got 88.8/188.8 which means i passed. Just replaced the radiator and bleed the coolant 3-4 times to make sure there was no more air in the system. I keep running the heat in the car and gradually its getting warmer (well atleast i think). Any idea's? I've had some issues with this car since i got it a couple of months ago. Also have some grinding/rattling noise near the exhaust and transmission. I thought it was the cat's, got both replaced spent $600+ and still grinding/rattling noise. I'm conviced its probably got something to do with the trans. Any help will be appreciated!
Click to expand...

What procedure did you use to bleed the air out of the coolant?
Did you replace the degas bottle?
What about the other plastic cooling system parts?
Why was the radiator replaced?
 
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