Hydraulic Fan Pump Bypass Belt Size 100"

Kid_Lyrics said:
The fan, say it's not hot and I save amperage and power. When the needle creeps, I flip a switch and cool it down... or is that a bad idea?
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No. You don't want to do that! When the temperature needle starts to move after the half-way point, the engine is already overheated! There would be no way for you to tell when to turn it on. Do like every thing else, and put a thermostatic controller on the fan. Set it to come on if the return water temperature from the radiator goes over 180 or so. (might need to set it lower than that)
 
joegr said:
No. You don't want to do that! When the temperature needle starts to move after the half-way point, the engine is already overheated! There would be no way for you to tell when to turn it on. Do like every thing else, and put a thermostatic controller on the fan. Set it to come on if the return water temperature from the radiator goes over 180 or so. (might need to set it lower than that)
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Yeaaaa idk how to do all that lol
 
Remember not so long ago he boasted about his A/C interrupt switch? Now attempting suggestions of running a high current fan fed from the seat heater circuit.

You guys gotta stop feeding this ill advised troll.
 
BigRigLS said:
...You guys gotta stop feeding this ill advised troll.
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Exactly. He has no intention of actually discussing any of his ideas, only insistence that he is right with no actual evidence to back it up. There seems to be no point in attempting debate.
 
I used 10 gauge wire to power my fan. The seat heater wires are significantly smaller. Thats right up there with the guy who used a muffler clamp to set his spring perch so he could use Billstien shocks.
 
Hite! I looked in my book at the wiring schematic(though it's an 04 schematic), and though it is close, there is probably not enough amperage to the seat heaters to properly run the larger fan motor of the LS.
KidL!..... HOWEVER,the good news is the under-hood fusebox probably has a few blank terminals meant for fuses that CAN be used. You want to go by the instructions of the manufacturer of the fan itself.
Scrap the seat heater idea.......just not enough amperage. don-ohio :)^)

hite337 said:
Wow don....the seat heater?
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I have EVERY intention of discussing it Joe! What would you like to discuss? How to spend hundreds of dollars on an LS when you can do the fix for something over a hundred? KidL has said he's gotta fix it on the cheap. Stop judging,that you may not be judged. You should heed that. And same to BR. don-ohio :)^)

joegr said:
Exactly. He has no intention of actually discussing any of his ideas, only insistence that he is right with no actual evidence to back it up. There seems to be no point in attempting debate.
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And BR......what a waste of time you are! But having been slimed,I must retort.
IF you cut power by means of a switch to the AC clutch I guarantee it cannot come on until you want, UNLESS maybe lightning strikes it! LOL! don-ohio :)^)

BigRigLS said:
Remember not so long ago he boasted about his A/C interrupt switch? Now attempting suggestions of running a high current fan fed from the seat heater circuit.

You guys gotta stop feeding this ill advised troll.
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don-ohio said:
... HOWEVER,the good news is the under-hood fusebox probably has a few blank terminals meant for fuses that CAN be used. ...
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KidL, don't do this. It's been tried before, and it can really mess up the PCM. It expects good clean power from that particular fuse box, not the noise and voltage drop caused by a big fan motor. There's a reason the 2nd gen fan is not powered from that box. Just put an in-line fuse at the power stud behind the passenger wheel well.

Of course, you'll have to remove the hydraulic fan system to put the electric fan in. Why not go ahead and remove it now. Then you could get the actuator out and clean up the system. Perhaps that will be all it needs to repair it and you won't have to go electric anyway.
 
joegr said:
KidL,

Of course, you'll have to remove the hydraulic fan system to put the electric fan in. Why not go ahead and remove it now. Then you could get the actuator out and clean up the system. Perhaps that will be all it needs to repair it and you won't have to go electric anyway.
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I'm thinking it's my problem all along... I'm gonna see if a mech friend can get it out next week... if not.. I'll just remove the while pump at that point
 
So NOW you tell him how to do it. Why couldn't you have said that a while back. That box runs all kinds of motors,and I doubt that fan motor will hurt one bit. But if you want to run a wire all the way from the rear,instead of right besides the fan,that's your choice,KidL.
Myself,I'd FOLLOW directions on the fan,which will probably have you wire it near where I said to. don-ohio :)^)


joegr said:
KidL, don't do this. It's been tried before, and it can really mess up the PCM. It expects good clean power from that particular fuse box, not the noise and voltage drop caused by a big fan motor. There's a reason the 2nd gen fan is not powered from that box. Just put an in-line fuse at the power stud behind the passenger wheel well.

Of course, you'll have to remove the hydraulic fan system to put the electric fan in. Why not go ahead and remove it now. Then you could get the actuator out and clean up the system. Perhaps that will be all it needs to repair it and you won't have to go electric anyway.
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don-ohio said:
So NOW you tell him how to do it. Why couldn't you have said that a while back. That box runs all kinds of motors,and I doubt that fan motor will hurt one bit. But if you want to run a wire all the way from the rear,instead of right besides the fan,that's your choice,KidL.
Myself,I'd FOLLOW directions on the fan,which will probably have you wire it near where I said to. don-ohio :)^)
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I told him where to wire it to before. The power stud is behind the front passenger wheel well. Last time I checked, that was under the hood, not in the rear of the car. Thank goodness we have you to set us straight. I'll let you take this one too...
 
Well,Joe,you didn't say front or REAR,either,until now. But I stand corrected. That may be better. don-ohio :)^)
 
don-ohio said:
Well,Joe,you didn't say front or REAR,either,until now. But I stand corrected. That may be better. don-ohio :)^)
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If you knew anything about what you are trying to give advice on, you would know that there is a power stud in the wheel well of only the front passenger tire. However, knowledge is overrated, so do carry on.
 
I know plenty about powering accessories. I do NOT have all knowing abilities,therefore I give good advice,such as: Follow the manufacturer's instructions...and.... there are places to hook up the wiring at the under hood fuse box. it seems you know better place. So?
You give a lot of good advice. I give a lot of good advice. You know the LS better than I.True...never would I deny that. You don't have my years of experience living on the cheap.....you could not deny that. We're different.
If KidL wanted(or could afford to) to spend 500 bucks fixing his LS so he could just get to work, YOUR advice is spot on. If KidL wants to get to work so he can make some money to fix it right? I got you beat,Joe. don-ohio :)^)
 
just goes to show you (again), an old school mech on a new school car is receipt for disaster...
 
1LoudLS said:
just goes to show you (again), an old school mech on a new school car is receipt for disaster...
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What a bunch of Malarkey! LOL! I've kept my LSes running fine now for many thousands.Have you? How many De-gas bottles,plastiques,etc. have you went thru Loud. Young whipper-snapper! Ha! don-ohio :)^)
 
don-ohio said:
If KidL wants to get to work so he can make some money to fix it right? I got you beat,Joe. don-ohio :)^)
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except for the part where you are recommending stupid things that could cause him a lot more problems down the road...

example:

don-ohio said:
Tie into the power supply for the seats,KidL.
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there you go with all of your electrical knowledge telling a guy to tap into a circuit that cant provide enough current, luckily instead of starting a fire, a fuse should just blow, however when the fuses blows, his motor is going to start overheating again, and instead of making it to work, he doesn't... again... how does that help him out?




just because you're the king of rigging sh!t up, doesn't mean that other people need help fukcing their cars up more than they already are...

people come on to forums to learn the right ways to fix problems, anybody can sit at home and just do what every their dumb friend tells them to do, you dont need to go on line to get help on how to do it wrong.
 
I explained that I was mistaken when I researched the amperage. Anyone who CAN'T admit a mistake is someone who shouldn't give advice,because we ALL make mistakes. Apparently you think you don't.... LOL! don-ohio :)^)
 
don-ohio said:
What a bunch of Malarkey! LOL! I've kept my LSes running fine now for many thousands.Have you? How many De-gas bottles,plastiques,etc. have you went thru Loud. Young whipper-snapper! Ha! don-ohio :)^)
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wow, congratulations, many thousands of miles, that is very comforting... I'm pretty sure that has more to do with ford building a good car than it does with your ability to rig up something cool.

but since you asked, the last three Lincolns were probably put through were over 250k (would have been a lot more if one hadn't been totaled out... definitely would have been a lot more if I didn't drive the old trusty rusty chevy to work and back, allowing me to keep the miles on the LS under 10k a year (probably only 5k-6k this year)


well my car started to overheat one day, I spend a few hundred buck and fixed it over a week, been rocking it solid ever since... the difference, I'm not a broke ass that needs to rig everything, I knew full well when buying a luxury car that originally cost over 40k that it will need maintenance, and those parts will probably cost more than parts for a cheaper car would. so what, sh!t breaks and I fix it the right way with quality parts as to not to continue to have problems that go on and on. if ever I found my self unable to pay what it cost to fix my car properly, I would just get rid of it and get something I could... actually, I would probably let it sit in the garage until I could, since I don"t need to rely on it every day and the DD is a extremely reliable car that has super cheap parts when ever something does fail on it...
 
don-ohio said:
I explained that I was mistaken when I researched the amperage. Anyone who CAN'T admit a mistake is someone who shouldn't give advice,because we ALL make mistakes. Apparently you think you don't.... LOL! don-ohio :)^)
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the difference is, when I tell some one the way to do something, there isnt a line of 10 people hopping on after me telling me how bad of an ideal that is.


you on the other hand...
 
Ignorance is bliss,Loud....you've proved it time and time again.LOL!
BTW.....my lil brother bought his wife a Ford Freestar van today with 95K on it. First thing he'll do is change oil(5W-30 not 5W-20), THEN he'll unpressurize the cooling system to avoid unnecessary blow-ups. don-ohio :)^)
 
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