Hydraulic Fan Pump Bypass Belt Size 100"

[RigsLS]

... YOU have been reported to the moderator ...

LOL, that's funny .... No juice boxes for you!

I didn't start nothing, you came on board and ran with it, didn't need my help! .... Honestly you believe your own crap!

 

[roncoinc]

LOL, that's funny .... No juice boxes for you!

I didn't start nothing, you came on board and ran with it, didn't need my help! .... Honestly you believe your own crap!

I know you speak Nadian but,,,,, " I didn't start nothing " ???

No poutine for you !!

 

[C. Thomas]

I replaced my hydraulic fan with a Flex-A-Lite 180 electric fan a few months back and I looped the hydraulic lines to the fan pump. This worked good for awhile but my fan pump began to whine a little. I searched this site for info on belt sizes for people who want to remove the fan pump and run a shorter belt. Alot of people asked this question and a clear answer was never posted. So here it is...a 13/16" x 100 5/8" belt with 6 ribs will fit.

I did the old string around the pulley trick and I bought 4 belts ranging from 98-101" and the 101" fit with the belt tensioner guage reading dead center. The fan pump was a SOB to remove but 5hrs of hell and it is history.

I also bought a different idler pulley for the top idler. It is identacle to the lower idler pulley with the flange on the outside. I wanted the flange because I didnt know if the belt would try to come off or not. It appears to ride well on the pulley so the stock pulley without the flange will probly work fine.

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Is there a chance you could draw up a diagram of how you ran the belt?

 

[Broseph]

Is there a chance you could draw up a diagram of how you ran the belt?

Just take the hydrolic fan pulley out of the image (item 1) and run the belt over top of the idle pulley (item 2) to the generator/alternator (item 9).

You can replace the non-flanged idle pulley (item 2) with a flanged pulley (item 8) off a junk motor or search eBay. I did this to avoid the belt from slipping since both pulleys are smooth.

I’m sure you could find a ribbed pulley with the same dimensions, but I’m on 30k miles with no issues thus far.

 

[Kenny]

KidL, don't do this. It's been tried before, and it can really mess up the PCM. It expects good clean power from that particular fuse box, not the noise and voltage drop caused by a big fan motor. There's a reason the 2nd gen fan is not powered from that box. Just put an in-line fuse at the power stud behind the passenger wheel well.

Of course, you'll have to remove the hydraulic fan system to put the electric fan in. Why not go ahead and remove it now. Then you could get the actuator out and clean up the system. Perhaps that will be all it needs to repair it and you won't have to go electric anyway.

This stud you speak of, is it in the engine bay or behind the wheel well covers? I am wiring up two fans 25-30 amps max draw per fan at full blast through a controller. Prior to reading this thread (thank God the idiot was banned) I planned on splitting the fan controller power off into two separate power supplies with their own fuses. Now that I won't be doing this in the fuse box, when I locate this stud, can I follow through with my initial plan of splitting into two separate fuses still but connecting to only the stud? Or should I not allow them to touch? Only splitting them bc a 60 amp fuse is annoying, but I can get one if I must.

 

[joegr]

This stud you speak of, is it in the engine bay or behind the wheel well covers? I am wiring up two fans 25-30 amps max draw per fan at full blast through a controller. Prior to reading this thread (thank God the idiot was banned) I planned on splitting the fan controller power off into two separate power supplies with their own fuses. Now that I won't be doing this in the fuse box, when I locate this stud, can I follow through with my initial plan of splitting into two separate fuses still but connecting to only the stud? Or should I not allow them to touch? Only splitting them bc a 60 amp fuse is annoying, but I can get one if I must.

Behind the front passenger wheel cover. You can see the other end of the stud by pulling back the carpet in the cabin on the passenger side where it meets the firewall. Yes, you can then split the power and use a separate fuse for each fan, both attached to the firewall stud. I would think that would be better. That way you wouldn't lose both fans at once if there was a problem.

 

[Kenny]

Behind the front passenger wheel cover. You can see the other end of the stud by pulling back the carpet in the cabin on the passenger side where it meets the firewall. Yes, you can then split the power and use a separate fuse for each fan, both attached to the firewall stud. I would think that would be better. That way you wouldn't lose both fans at once if there was a problem.

I found it. Is there something I should buy to attach the wiring or just wrap it around and put the cap back on?

 

[joegr]

I found it. Is there something I should buy to attach the wiring or just wrap it around and put the cap back on?

I would use a large crimp on ring terminal. (You will need the correct crimp tool.) Remove the existing nut that holds the starter and alternator cables on, add the ring terminal, and then reinstall the nut. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal while you are working with this. Just wrapping the wire around it would possibly be a good way to start a fire!

 

[Kenny]

I would use a large crimp on ring terminal. (You will need the correct crimp tool.) Remove the existing nut that holds the starter and alternator cables on, add the ring terminal, and then reinstall the nut. Be sure to disconnect the negative battery terminal while you are working with this. Just wrapping the wire around it would possibly be a good way to start a fire!

Right on, will there be power when the vehicle is off? I have an ignition cable on the controller but wondering if it's necessary as I'm not sure where to tie it in.

 

[joegr]

Right on, will there be power when the vehicle is off? I have an ignition cable on the controller but wondering if it's necessary as I'm not sure where to tie it in.

That terminal is powered all the time.

 

[Kenny]

That terminal is powered all the time.

Okay, but since the controller has an ignition line, would it only receive power when turned on if I wire that in? If yes, is there a wire I can use a run tap crimp on for ignition?

 

[joegr]

Okay, but since the controller has an ignition line, would it only receive power when turned on if I wire that in? If yes, is there a wire I can use a run tap crimp on for ignition?

There are several circuits that are only powered when the key is in the run position. For the low current ignition sense wire from your controller, you could use the positive rail for the fuel injectors or for the COPs. Fuses for these are under the hood and identified in the owner's manual.

 

[Kenny]

There are several circuits that are only powered when the key is in the run position. For the low current ignition sense wire from your controller, you could use the positive rail for the fuel injectors or for the COPs. Fuses for these are under the hood and identified in the owner's manual.

So essentially I can tap into an existing fuse that only activates when the engine starts for the ignition line. Or am I thinking about this wrong.

 

[smegun]

possible to rebuild the alternator like I got it out but id like to put in a fresh regulator and stater contacts

 

[oddball]

possible to rebuild the alternator like I got it out but id like to put in a fresh regulator and stater contacts

Yup. I rebuilt mine a couple of times. Got parts from alternatorparts.com. Took some hunting to get the right parts. Note that this is for Gen1 v8, don't know about any of the others. Regulator was an F601HD. Note that the Ford slip ring tolerance stuff was designed by the devil.

 

[drag214]

This post helped me a lot with my conversion!