Looking for total parts and tools list for suspension

No one (or very few, to be technically correct) replace just the ball joints because of the cost benefit ratio. A good ball joint is 35 + shipping (Or tax. Or tax & shipping). It's much easier to r&r it if you take the arm off the car. 15 more dollars gets you the entire arm. Since you probably had the arm off to begin with for the ball joint replacement, why even bother? A new arm will get you the new bushings for the frame end too.
 
Hey look! A squirrel!
 
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Tomorrow is going to be the day. I am very excited to swap out these parts and have a fully functional and new front end. Two last questions. if anyone is still reading this thread by now.

Will I need to goto vatozone and rent a tie rod wrench. I have not seen mention of that. I would think so but i dont wanna let them hold my 50 bucks if I dont have too.
Is it worth picking up the moog camber bolts to swap out while in that part of the car. its an extra 42 bucks since they are like 21 dollars each at advance.
 
i've never used a tie rod wrench.. what is that?

and no. the mark has enough adjustability as it is. unless your eccentric washers are broke, you are fine.
 
chris2523 said:
i've never used a tie rod wrench.. what is that?
.
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tierodendremovaltool_zps4bef6bb1.jpg

it was handy r/r mine..free rent from Advance A (bought then returned=free?)
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Trippen Out said:
Tomorrow is going to be the day. I am very excited to swap out these parts and have a fully functional and new front end.
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yea, me too the big day to finish my front end!!!
:joke
eh, scratch that, maybe one day it will roll again
....gonna sand sheet rock then paint at the gf's basement instead!
Trippen Out said:
Is it worth picking up the moog camber bolts to swap out while in that part of the car. its an extra 42 bucks since they are like 21 dollars each at advance
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B/C I didn't know what I was doing, I damaged one of the washers removing it. Alan Lobird was kind enough to send me one for free. I'd reuse it if it's not mangled...imo
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TO, you asked for pics when it looked like I'd be done before you...so I'll ask you for pics, mine will get done at some point...
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are you redoing brakes/rotors?
 
Trippen Out said:
Tomorrow is going to be the day. I am very excited to swap out these parts and have a fully functional and new front end. Two last questions. if anyone is still reading this thread by now.

Will I need to goto vatozone and rent a tie rod wrench. I have not seen mention of that. I would think so but i dont wanna let them hold my 50 bucks if I dont have too.
Is it worth picking up the moog camber bolts to swap out while in that part of the car. its an extra 42 bucks since they are like 21 dollars each at advance.
Click to expand...

No need for the Moog adjusters, you have plenty adjustment with the factory ones and they never wear out.

I have tie rod sockets and tools but on a Mark you can use a large cresent wrench without a problem. Just make sure to remove the tiny set pins on the inner tie rods or you will destroy the racks threads when you unscrew them.
 
LaserSVT said:
No need for the Moog adjusters, you have plenty adjustment with the factory ones and they never wear out.

I have tie rod sockets and tools but on a Mark you can use a large cresent wrench without a problem. Just make sure to remove the tiny set pins on the inner tie rods or you will destroy the racks threads when you unscrew them.
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fair enough. I think i might have one laying around. thanks for the advice on the pins. in regards to the adjuster. im hoping mine are in descent shape everything is pretty much shot. i do believe they are all still stock parts
 
LaserSVT said:
Just make sure to remove the tiny set pins on the inner tie rods or you will destroy the racks threads when you unscrew them.
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when I removed mine I looked for the pins but they weren't there, I've read that sometimes they are, sometimes they're not..I found an inner tie rod end how to on LoD when I did mine awhile back, I'll see if I can dig it up
 
From the factory they have pins. They are high wear items due to the cars weight so odds are if there are no pins then someone threw parts store cheapos in the car. Moogs, Motorcraft, Raybestos and AC Delco (premium) will have a pin or an allen screw. Duralast, Master Pro, Rare parts, OE, Ultrapower and AC Delco (Advantage) all do not have set pins or screws and only last a year or so.
 
ohh. that thing. yeah i just use a crescent wrench like Laser. and make sure to remove those pins.
i forgot to and tore up the threads on one. but there was also a giant hole in the rack so i wasn't worried about it.
 
anyone have a link to a total walk through for all this stuff. or do i just have to attack it a piece at a time. ? the only thing i could really fine was an upper control arm r/r on lod
 
So i am pretty pissed at my self. there is a part that connects to the upper contrl arm and runs down to the hub. i have no clue what its called and i didnt order it for the replacement. i grinded it down so my wheels wouldnt rub thinking no big deal im gonna replace it when i do the upper and lowers. thinking thatit was the lower. well i guess i was wrong.. so what part is it becuase i need to replace it along with the uppers and lower control arms and all the bushings imdoing todya
 
The spindle? How ....... WTF?

I have a couple at the shop I can let go for cheap but shipping is kinda expensive. If memory serves when I shipped a pair of rear ones to DLF they were like 70 or 80 bucks to ship. The fronts are lighter but still.

Take a pic so I know for sure that's the part you need.

For the tie rods just knock the outer tie rod ends out of the spindle and then loosen the lock nut and remove the outer tie rods from the inners. After that cut the band clamp off the inner boot and slide the boot off. Locate the locking pin and screw a drill bit into it (by hand) and pull out the pin then use your wrench and unscrew the inner tie rod.

Job done. :)
 
Trippen Out said:
So i am pretty pissed at my self. there is a part that connects to the upper contrl arm and runs down to the hub. i have no clue what its called and i didnt order it for the replacement. i grinded it down so my wheels wouldnt rub thinking no big deal im gonna replace it when i do the upper and lowers. thinking thatit was the lower. well i guess i was wrong.. so what part is it becuase i need to replace it along with the uppers and lower control arms and all the bushings imdoing todya
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what he said, don't replace the spindle unless it's cracked or something....a couple suggestions- before removing outer tie rod ends, figure how to reinstall new one in the same place so alignment will be close after replacing...count the revolutions upon removal or measure point to point on existing; get some white welders paint pen and mark the camber washer in relation to the subframe and reinstall at same place with new LCA
 
Trippen Out said:
So i am pretty pissed at my self. there is a part that connects to the upper contrl arm and runs down to the hub. i have no clue what its called and i didnt order it for the replacement. i grinded it down so my wheels wouldnt rub thinking no big deal im gonna replace it when i do the upper and lowers. thinking thatit was the lower. well i guess i was wrong.. so what part is it becuase i need to replace it along with the uppers and lower control arms and all the bushings imdoing todya
Click to expand...
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what he said, don't replace the spindle unless it's cracked or something....a couple suggestions- before removing outer tie rod ends, figure how to reinstall new one in the same place so alignment will be close after replacing...count the revolutions upon removal or measure point to point on existing; get some white welders paint pen and mark the camber washer in relation to the subframe and reinstall at same place with new LCA
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Mike's lower BJ how to might help
http://www.lincolnvscadillac.com/tech/lincoln-mark-viii/ball-joints/
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also I used a pickle fork (ball joint remover, arbor press?) to remove the sway bar end link from the spindle- it's tapered; somebody told me to wail on it real hard to remove it...I tried that for way too long, didn't work, then pushed it out eventually with the press
-----be careful hanging your calipers, use wire, if it falls your brake lines may get trashed
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my $.02
 
yea we aready took out one of the tie rods. there was no pin in it. everything looks factory on this car which does not surprise me at all. we are still working on the drier side. getting the 30mm bolt out... just went and got a giant breaker bar.. as for the spindle arm. yes. somewhere i have pictures where i grinded it. i want to replace it new but im not in a hurry. i can always do it later i guess..
 
correction. i just went out and monkey fkd the bolt with 400 lbs of ass and it cracked loose. back to work. sadly its to hot and im to much wanting to get this over to take pictures. so ill probably just snap one of the parts that have been removed so ya can see how bad they are
 
here's some pics of mine as it sits, maybe it'll help?
btw, I'm not r/r forward SRB's but i do have new sleeves for them; free if somebody needs em
UCA and inner and outer tie rod ends already replaced
P5250371_zps8cc3e7bf.jpg

P5250373_zpsb0deb8cc.jpg

P5250374_zps90bfff09.jpg

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looking at it now after sitting for a month, I'm like, "what goes where again?" lol
 
yea we are all good. the only bitch we are having is the bushing in the top picture on the far left looks like some string hanging by it.. those.. i got new ones and i thought the sleeves were two peice but i guess they get destroyed removing them and you need ot make new ones or something
 
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