Looking for total parts and tools list for suspension

you're talking about the ones in here, right?
P5250375_zps6e37e7df.jpg

got em, don't need 'em....discontinued I think, Spree sent em to me a few weeks ago for a couple of parts he needed
...PM an addy they'll go out today....no charge or pay shipping later if you want to
 
The sleeves are different depending on what SRB you use. If you use OEM bushings (the best IMHO) then you need those discontinued sleeves. I bought the last new set a few years ago. But if you are using aftermarket bushings they usually come with the new sleeves.
I have yet to find an aftermarket one worth a damn though. The Moogs are ok if you don't mind replacing them every 10k.
 
Don't forget you need to re-drill the forward stock washer to 1" to use those spacers. There is a set currently in my car and I couldn't be happier with them!
 
What a day. sadly i didnt get any pictures :( .. so everything is finally done. when we start putting the passange side together i had to stop and go rebuild my strut. the washer and nut pulled right through the strut mount. i was like what the hell. then it popped right off. so i had to track down a new one and get a spring compressor. finally got that all back together... so there were a couple set backs. one of which was the bushings for the control. im going to just wait till i get the sleeves and change them in a couple weeks.. so after it was all said and done. we put the car back on the ground. i start it up. i turn the wheels to the left then to the right and back again and then i heard a sick pop sound. almost like something snapped out of place. i felt it in the steering wheel as well

so we check under the car didnt notice anything right away by now it was darkish out. so i turned the wheels some more and nothing. i put it reverse just to move it. made it like 3 feet back and then lock up. the card wouldnt move any more. it did move forward. so i took a look at the wheels. the alignment is so off that it will need to be towed to a shop. with the steering wheel centered. the front left is jacked to the left and the passanger side is mostly straight. with the strearing wheel 90 to the right. the drivers side is straight and the passanger side is almost 45 degrees to the right.

so i guess i will see what happens after the alignment.
 
The spindle? How ....... WTF?

I have a couple at the shop I can let go for cheap but shipping is kinda expensive. If memory serves when I shipped a pair of rear ones to DLF they were like 70 or 80 bucks to ship. The fronts are lighter but still.

Take a pic so I know for sure that's the part you need.

For the tie rods just knock the outer tie rod ends out of the spindle and then loosen the lock nut and remove the outer tie rods from the inners. After that cut the band clamp off the inner boot and slide the boot off. Locate the locking pin and screw a drill bit into it (by hand) and pull out the pin then use your wrench and unscrew the inner tie rod.

Job done. :)

this part. the one thats grinded.. what is the actual name for it.
405878_585714991453663_193946957_n.jpg
 
That's the spindle. You shouldn't need to replace it if that's just some surface grinding
 
That's the spindle. You shouldn't need to replace it if that's just some surface grinding


You are very possibly correct. however I would still like to find a new one if possible. maybe one thats in better cosmetic shape as well. some of the grinding is just ugly. and would need to be treated as it has already started to show signs of rust.


I thought spindle was a generic name for it. I take it you cant buy these at vatozone. probably a dealer part or a junk yard part ?
 
Its the spindle. Dealer no longer sells them. Cant get them at any autoparts store. JY you can get them from any mark or T-bird or Cougar, they are all the same.

A little surface grinding is ok. Just pull it off, knock off the surface rust and dirt then spray with Rustoleum undercar black spraypaint and they will look better than new. sapper just did his in matching silver with his brake caliper mounts. looks good but when the car is on the ground you will never see it again.
 
sounds rough TO
-did you mark and match the camber bolt on reinstall? did you try to match the length of the outer tie rod ends?
----
re; spindle, if you replace that you may want to replace front hub bearing assemblies at same time, both sides...maybe do that later on with a 4 wheel hub swap to 4.5''
 
So i am sad to say for the first time ever since i have owned my car i saw it on top of a flat bed truck. I had it towed for the alignment and thats when the bad news started to roll in. One thing i did not know and no one pointed out any of the articles or i failed to pay attention to it is the fact that you need to center your steering wheel and dont friggen touch it at all.

Some how i have managed to f up the car pretty good. by the time the guy was "done" aligning the car the street wheel was 180 degrees upside down. I was also told that the tie rods were way off as well still. in addition to this i told them to go head and make it right. after about 2-3 hours i get a call saying they will need to keep the car over night as they are basically going to have to redo the entire tie rod job and there could be damage to the rack. I am not a happy camper right now.


in regards to marking things. I had my friend helping me and before i could remind him to mark the camber bolts they were already laying on the ground. so that was the first strike. second I am not 100 percent sure we came close in matching on the tie rods at ether section. so it was pretty much a charlie fox trot when it came to putting it back together. I take it as a valuable lesson learned and i am hoping to escape for less then 500 dollars. in damages. right now the extra work including the alignment im at about 280 dollars. i did get a short video of the car before it left. i tried to show just how jacked up the alignment was. ill share that after i get it uploaded on the tube.

what really bummed me out the most is i just wanted to get int he car and go for a drive today. it was a perfect dive day here in florida. i so cant wait to feel the way this car rides. all the old parts as stated before were stock. half the bushings did not exist anymore. or just shredded away and fell to the ground when touched.

[video=youtube;qHWLAQxL7DY]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qHWLAQxL7DY&hd=1[/video]
 
thanks for the reminder on centering the wheel TO, sorry it's turning out this way. Before you pay em for the alignment, make sure they test drive it. My local NTB kept trying to align mine to air ride parameters, they knew it had coils but didn't connect the dots
 
Its the spindle. Dealer no longer sells them. Cant get them at any autoparts store. JY you can get them from any mark or T-bird or Cougar, they are all the same.

A little surface grinding is ok. Just pull it off, knock off the surface rust and dirt then spray with Rustoleum undercar black spraypaint and they will look better than new. sapper just did his in matching silver with his brake caliper mounts. looks good but when the car is on the ground you will never see it again.


Brand new here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-SPI...s=Model:Mark+VIII&hash=item5d2991ad24&vxp=mtr
 
So i am sad to say for the first time ever since i have owned my car i saw it on top of a flat bed truck. I had it towed for the alignment and thats when the bad news started to roll in. One thing i did not know and no one pointed out any of the articles or i failed to pay attention to it is the fact that you need to center your steering wheel and dont friggen touch it at all.

Some how i have managed to f up the car pretty good. by the time the guy was "done" aligning the car the street wheel was 180 degrees upside down. I was also told that the tie rods were way off as well still. in addition to this i told them to go head and make it right. after about 2-3 hours i get a call saying they will need to keep the car over night as they are basically going to have to redo the entire tie rod job and there could be damage to the rack. I am not a happy camper right now.


in regards to marking things. I had my friend helping me and before i could remind him to mark the camber bolts they were already laying on the ground. so that was the first strike. second I am not 100 percent sure we came close in matching on the tie rods at ether section. so it was pretty much a charlie fox trot when it came to putting it back together. I take it as a valuable lesson learned and i am hoping to escape for less then 500 dollars. in damages. right now the extra work including the alignment im at about 280 dollars. i did get a short video of the car before it left. i tried to show just how jacked up the alignment was. ill share that after i get it uploaded on the tube.

what really bummed me out the most is i just wanted to get int he car and go for a drive today. it was a perfect dive day here in florida. i so cant wait to feel the way this car rides. all the old parts as stated before were stock. half the bushings did not exist anymore. or just shredded away and fell to the ground when touched.


Uhh, that all just sounds like a horribly botched alignment job to me. You didn't do anything that would have 'damaged the rack' and as long as all the parts were there all they had to do was get it all 'aligned' as was their job.

You even had it towed for an alignment, I never bothered to do that. On my Cougar and my Mark I threw the parts in as close as I could get it and then drove it down for an alignment, 6 days after driving it to work and back since they were booked for appointments,
 
He could have damaged the rack if the inner tie rods had a pin and he didn't notice. Not saying he did but there is a chance.

I am worried about his clock-spring though. If the wheel was rotated too much the wires snap and you lose cruise and horn. :(
 
He could have damaged the rack if the inner tie rods had a pin and he didn't notice. Not saying he did but there is a chance.

I am worried about his clock-spring though. If the wheel was rotated too much the wires snap and you lose cruise and horn. :(

we did not see or notice any pins at all on the rods.
 
if he does replace anything, make sure you get the old part back as evidence of a damaged and replaced component. I've been burned that way before- being charged for work and parts never done
 
I got the car back today. im just so exhausted i didnt really car about how or why i just wanted to go for a drive and clean up. total cost was 269 dollars. I still think i came out a head in comparison to having a shop swap out all of the parts. I do have the alignment sheets i am not sure what spec they used but i was told its under warranty and i can bring it back with in 6 months and have it realigned. I asked if i gave them the specs to use if they could do it to that and they told me yes.

So in a few months when i get finished with the rest of the front end work. i will take it up there and give them the specs from tcca aggressive alignment spec and have them set it all to that. I am interested in redoing the rear but i cant seam to find any threads about it. i havnt decided if the search function is equal to or less then the previous search function. so if anyone has any idea of what bushings and or parts are needed for that. or any links that would be awesome.

ill take a snap shot of the before and after sheets of the alignment so you guys can get a good laugh
 
The rears don't seem to really wear out. In all the Marks I have had the only parts that were worn are the wheel bearings, sway end-links, shock and shock mout and the toe compensator. The control arm bushings were always good. There are no ball joints to worry about.
 
I am worried about his clock-spring though. If the wheel was rotated too much the wires snap and you lose cruise and horn. :(
How would he do this if the wheel was never diconected from the steering shaft.
Sounds to me like they had the new guy do it and he botched the job
Part of doing an alignment is making sure the wheel is straight.
 
I would be raising hell! My car is my car. If I pay for a service it must be done correctly. I agree with the comment above. May have been a rookie or an ol' timer that's ready to retire.

If i would of done my job correctly i would be in there bitching. but i didnt. so i dont really think i can. im gonna go over the paperwork tonight tho and see what is what. before i decided to flip the script or not. to be honest with ya im glad i made it out for less then 300 after all the f-ups i committed. i mean really not centering the steering wheel is a big one in its self. not marking any of the parts to even try an put it back to some resemblance of an alignment.... its 89.99 for a basic alignment that really means some minor adjustments here and there. that doesn't include doing it from scratch which is basically what they had to do.
if you think about the hourly rate they charge to work on cars and the fact that they put about 8 hours on it 269 dollars really wasnt to bad of a pocket burn.

grantedi might be over justifying it a bit. but like i said i wont know till i really go over the paper work

i will say this. i remember when i first put my springs and stuff on the car. i messages kev about his since they were for the most part identical set ups. i asked if his front end dragged over speed humps and other stuff and his reply was nope no issues. well after doing this job. i can understand why. my nose does not dip down so drastic anymore. i had no clue just how bad it was either. now i can roll over speed humps with out worries and even some of the most drastic driveways that i used to drag on are more friendly now too.
 

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