My new project (Slow project thread). Definitely different.

Ok guys, this is where I'm at. My stepdad & I moved the car to it's temporary resting place. It will diminish the humidity from getting inside. I'm searching for a good welder to set up some square tubing for the bottom of the car where I will end up pulling it by. I'm going to try to save the original independent rear suspension because I want to do some sort of setup where the car remains on airbags. Yes, that back half is still on air. I'd love to park at a local show & slam it then pick it back up when I'm ready to leave. I think it will remain this way for the next couple months until January or February.

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UltimateSVT said:
Ok guys, this is where I'm at. My stepdad & I moved the car to it's temporary resting place. It will diminish the humidity from getting inside. I'm searching for a good welder to set up some square tubing for the bottom of the car where I will end up pulling it by. I'm going to try to save the original independent rear suspension because I want to do some sort of setup where the car remains on airbags. Yes, that back half is still on air. I'd love to park at a local show & slam it then pick it back up when I'm ready to leave. I think it will remain this way for the next couple months until January or February.

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Click to expand...

Kinda looks like it went through the side of your house.
 
How do the rear bearings need the axle stub? Not trying to argue. Does the stub hold the bearing together?
 
I could be wrong, but did not think that the shaft was 'needed' for any of that. The nut just holds the shaft in the hub securely. The bearing is pushed in flush to the face of the spindle with a snap ring to hold it from backing out. I don't see how the shafts have to be installed to keep it together. The shaft isn't actually securing anything... Now that I think about it, I guess all it would need to do is keep the hub from possibly pulling out of the bearing itself. Hmmmm...

I guess I would disassemble the halfshafts and just use the axle stubs at the spindles.
 
i forgot to tighten down the rear axle nuts when i changed my rear wheel bearings.
i thought the car was gonna slide off the road.

i know a guy who pulled the axles out of a taurus (exact same front wheel bearings), he rolled the car down the driveway and a wheel fell off.

the back of the axle stub, and the back of the wheel hub, compress the bearing together. without that tension, the bearing will fall apart. there is nothing else holding the bearing together.

that big bearing is just two conical seat bearings back to back.

you will need the axle stubs.

the c clip holds the bearing into the spindle, not the hub in the bearing.
 
you can always run a line to the compressor on the blue car or something like that....just an idea i could be wrong.
 
There isn't really a reason to remove the axles or the pumpkin unless you are just concerned about the weight
 
I wonder if I can do something simple. Something where I don't have to take anything apart from the rear subframe. I'd like to find a way to weld square tubing onto the rear subframe coming out straight forward. Example:

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Get a set of Firestone bags that fit for height and width. You can select the port size then put a tank and valve in the trailer..... Errrrr trunk.... Whatever you want to call it.
 
97MarkJA said:
Get a set of Firestone bags that fit for height and width. You can select the port size then put a tank and valve in the trailer..... Errrrr trunk.... Whatever you want to call it.
Click to expand...

Thanks dude. I wonder if there's some type of way to modify these bags. I mean, really just drill a hole on the beige plastic on each bag, install a valve & go from there. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get there. Gotta see how much Firestone bags cost.
 
Looks like you can get bags for around a 100 a piece with up to a 1/2" port. That would be plenty fast, you just have to have the volume to fill it.
 
This is mine & my father's camping/utility trailer. What you see below? That's kind' of what I had in mind for the bottom of the trailer project. Welding a couple bars to meet each other at the front so I can weld a hitch to it. Other than the light weight of the actual trailer I don't think that thing will every be super loaded at all. I would have it welded really well but this way I don't have to replace the Mark axle. Let me know what you guys think. Is it possible? I'd have to create a small frame beneath the car connected to the subframe at both points shown in the above post. I'd also create a "roll cage" style frame around the outer edge of the car that will also be welded to this frame. I can post some photoshopped pictures in a couple days to help visualizing my idea.


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Here's an update on my trailer project. All of this was done in the last 2 weeks.

She's finally road worthy!

Completely tilted the trailer on it's left side. I had a donor trailer which I would use the frame from however I already had a vision since I grabbed the donor trailer. I knew I would only use the front half of the trailer & nothing more. I recieved assistance from my stepfather & his cousin. He's a welder & does amazing work. Only problem with him is actually have him separate some time for you. It took me 4 months to finally have him come weld this frame for me, lol

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Took her out for a test ride right after I got her welded up.
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Plasti-dipped the half Mark flat black. She looks so much better.

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Dyed the seats black. Now waiting for the interior 1/4 panels.
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I especially love towing her around on Wednesdays! :)
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Tested the neon, it came with a fully working ballast! I was happier than an ant in a honeycomb.
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Next week I will finish all the electrical & get it registered. Can't wait.

NOTE: There's still more in store. Roof will indeed be chopped off, it will be a convertible with a vinyl top buttoned down to the body. She's still on air bags so I have to swap it to my Eibach lowered springs as well
 
I like it but why the seats?
Going to have air suspension in both the car and trailer so when you go to a show everything lowers?
 
chestnut101 said:
make a fiberglass topper, it will look better
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I just became a dad, fiberglass was the way to go but me budget has shifter to 99.5% to the baby & .5 to the trailer, lol I'm going with a vinyl top with buttons until I'm good and ready for fiberglass

Markviiiedrea said:
How does it tow?
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Tow's great. Backing up she tends to close to either sides rather quickly. Everyone who's towed something before can tell you, the shorter the trailer, the faster they turn. I'm used to towing boats, waverunners which give you a minimum of 12 ft of trailer. This is really short so I'm getting used to it.

slowmkviii said:
I like it but why the seats?
Going to have air suspension in both the car and trailer so when you go to a show everything lowers?
Click to expand...

I want something I can take to the beach, to the car shows, etc... & really enjoy. If it's just storage then I can guarantee you it will rot in my back yard. I also thought into making it a BBQ but again, it will rot in my back yard. I want something practical. Throw a cooler in the trunk & enjoy it year round.
 
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