joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The 2nd gen pump seems to last longer than the 1st gen one.
New LS owner here, with long cranking issues.
- Thread starter RyLS
- Start date
Welp, I'm kind of embarrassed now, which is why it has taken me this long to write this.
Today, as I was starting the LS up, a horrible high pitch noise came from what I thought was the power steering pump. I still drove it to work and back like that, so I can't say she's a quitter! But anyways, I decided to pull into a shop right next door by my place and thank f*ck I did. It appears that my steering rack has decided to go bye bye world and literally coated the underside of the car in fluid. And there goes an embarrassingly large amount of Benjamins on the credit card to fix it. They said I'll get it back tomorrow, fingers crossed. And I now owe American Express more than what I'm worth atm
I think it was Jay Z who said "If you having car problems I feel bad for ya, son. I got 99 problems and a Linc is one" (kidding, lol)
Today, as I was starting the LS up, a horrible high pitch noise came from what I thought was the power steering pump. I still drove it to work and back like that, so I can't say she's a quitter! But anyways, I decided to pull into a shop right next door by my place and thank f*ck I did. It appears that my steering rack has decided to go bye bye world and literally coated the underside of the car in fluid. And there goes an embarrassingly large amount of Benjamins on the credit card to fix it. They said I'll get it back tomorrow, fingers crossed. And I now owe American Express more than what I'm worth atm
I think it was Jay Z who said "If you having car problems I feel bad for ya, son. I got 99 problems and a Linc is one" (kidding, lol)
It was actually cheaper than I expected, lol. Maybe the dudes took some pity on me?
Anyways, guys said that I'm gonna need rotors and pads for all 4 corners soon as well, so I was hoping, that, since it's a Ford, there would be some cheap compatible option. But then again, this is a Jag underneath, not my ol' Mazda.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
You sure it was the rack... and not just an o-ring? I would have them show you exactly where the leak is. The o-rings on the rack where the hoses go into are known to fail with age.
I'll have them show me the old parts tomorrow, but anyways. It's already a done deal, so this would just be a valuable learning experience if it was an o-ring.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
If still made for the LS... the Bosch "quiet cast" rotors hold up pretty well. Stay away from the cheap auto parts store stuff.
For pads... Raybestos or Wagner would be a good choice for quick repair. Akebono pads are the schitt... especially when used with OEM Ford rotors.
For pads... Raybestos or Wagner would be a good choice for quick repair. Akebono pads are the schitt... especially when used with OEM Ford rotors.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Pagid rotors are excellent too... but pricey. They are OEM for some European car manufacturers.
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
I updated mine to power stop drilled and slotted from rock Auto for 230$, installed myself and saved a ton. Even cheaper options if you get regular rotors. Mines a second gen so yours may vary but it shouldn't be too outrageously different.
The Power Stop kit would run me $290... how well does it do compared to stock brakes?
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
Significantly better, but the stock ones were pretty trashed when I bought the car so I have no frame of reference for the stock ones in good working condition.
I was considering an upgrade but I dont want it to be too sensitive, if you know what I mean
SultanGris
Dedicated LVC Member
Stock ones are plenty good enough if they're cheaper, I just went with the drilled and slotted because I drive pretty hard and I was hoping they would help cool them a little better cuz my stock ones got pretty hot and dirty on my rims. Likely weren't the stock pads though because it had 166 k on it when I got it
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Which power stop rotors? They make several versions. The drilled and slotted aren't worth the money on a daily driver vehicle... plus they wear the pads faster.
If you were to go to Rock Auto for parts... stay away from their "economy" listings. There are many good rotors in their "daily driver" listings.
Coated rotors are good for areas of the country where rust can be an issue.
The "performance" rotors are overkill for daily use.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
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milehighmikey
Dedicated LVC Member
Just to note, 323,500 on my stock fuel pumps! I should not post this, because I did cops and plugs on my wrx Wednesday and was thinking about how long it has been MIL free. Then the next day, yesterday, I turned a corner and the engine died. P0340, cam position sensor. Problem was solid. Found oil in the sealed connector, cleaned it out, car started and ran fine. Had my S-I-L order me an oem sensor just in case, as I was headed on a 95 mile drive, and when I turned into his street, it died again, same as before! I had taken my tools that I used to perform the repair, and my S-I-L bravely stuck his hand down into a 200+ degree fire pit of heat, right against the wastegate actuator and the kid got it changed in 5 minutes! It took me ahalf hour to thread in the hold down bolt for that sensor 4 hour earlier! But yeah, 323,500 on stock pumps.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
So you are one of the rare few on this forum... that have over 300k on their LS. Awesome!
By the time I get there... there won't be much of my LS left, (salt belt vehicle).
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Engine got too warm huh?
Hopefully you shut the key off when you were alerted by the message center on the other side of the dash.
Did the engine lock up? Will it still turn over? How is the engine coolant level in the degas (overflow) bottle?
The shady Fla dealer probably rolled back the odometer. I realize age is a factor on parts wear... but No Way should a car with that milage have this many problems all at once... unless it was severely neglected.
$5k ?!?! Is the extra $1500 just for the steering rack work?
Hopefully you shut the key off when you were alerted by the message center on the other side of the dash.
Did the engine lock up? Will it still turn over? How is the engine coolant level in the degas (overflow) bottle?
The shady Fla dealer probably rolled back the odometer. I realize age is a factor on parts wear... but No Way should a car with that milage have this many problems all at once... unless it was severely neglected.
$5k ?!?! Is the extra $1500 just for the steering rack work?
Between fees and repairs, it totals 5k.
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Then it is most likely age of parts... and you bought a ticking time bomb.
Does the engine still turn over when you hit the key?
Does the engine still turn over when you hit the key?
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
CarFax isn't always accurate. Especially if the vehicle crosses State lines (or Country Borders).
It's been a number of years since I used this... but it's accurate. Last I knew it was like $6.50 (a decade ago).
Probably more now.
vehiclehistory.bja.ojp.gov
It's been a number of years since I used this... but it's accurate. Last I knew it was like $6.50 (a decade ago).
Probably more now.
Home | VehicleHistory
The National Motor Vehicle Title Information System is designed to protect consumers from fraud and unsafe vehicles and to keep stolen vehicles from being resold.
vehiclehistory.bja.ojp.gov
she still fires up. I shut her down as soon as I noticed it, it never went into limp mode. Had to start her back up to move to an intersection and a dumb attempt to drive it home that resulted in me moving a couple feet down the road before I noticed the needle slowly going up, and to get her into the driveway