New Sound System!!

bearsfan39 said:
lol sorry, i've always wondered if those are any good
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clairon's pro audio is pretty good, dont really care for the regular product line, also i always recommend headunits without any moving parts (flip outs or tilting DD's) as sooner or later they all seem to have problems with either the motors wearing out or one of the brackets breaking or getting misaligned!
 
I don't absolutely need to put new wiring in, but i would prefer to cause i want higher quality. i got 12 gauge wiring and i'm sure that the stock wire is much smaller than that. I want it to sound great cause i don't have the money to afford Dynamat just yet.

And so, my car just got out of the shop today. New engine and everything. was extremely excited.
Drove about two miles away from the shop...and...the alternator failed. well. it was working. just not very well. so the battery just kept on draining and draining and it just stopped accelerating and basically turned off completely! So i had to put a new alternator and a new battery in. Woo!
I would have waited on the alternator but with a new sound system with three amps going in i figure it'd just be a safer bet to do it right. so...sorry about the delay, but pictures will all be up tomorrow!!!
 
You should have gone with a HO Alt whilst you were in there.

I'll be putting my stuff in hopefully soon as well.

subdw.jpg
 
+1 was going to mention a high output alt as well.

Nice stuff there andy. Whats the specs on that amp?

edit: nm, I searched it out. Looks about the same ratings as mine. Is your sub vc config dual 2 ohm?
 
Yes. I will be putting around 1000 to it. I have plans for a crazy box lol.
 
are you still trying to decide on which sub to get? pull the damn trigger Pete, PULL IT!
 
and 12awg is definitely over kill unless you close to the 500W-1000W point, 18awg is good past 50, and 16awg is good well past 100W

but if you already got it, then rock it, i did use 12awg, but only because i had much more 12awg then 16awg sitting around (and all the 16awg went into my buddies caddy)

and let me tell you, the door boots are ALMOST to small for 12awg, it can be done but it takes a while, get a car antenna that is thin and flexible and has a small ball on the end, some good electrical tape and some WD-40 and go to town!
 
1LoudLS said:
are you still trying to decide on which sub to get? pull the damn trigger Pete, PULL IT!
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I'm pretty much decided on a DC lvl4. Just gotta get rid of the current sub/kenwood amp. My brother should be buying it soon.
 
lol. I'm going to be using a directed d2400. Puts out 1200w rms @1ohm. the lvl4 can handle 1000w rms. lvl4xl can take 1500 rms. I can only imagine what the lvl6 can handle.
 
pektel said:
I'm pretty much decided on a DC lvl4.
I'm going to be using a directed d2400. Puts out 1200w rms @1ohm.
the lvl4 can handle 1000w rms.
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1000<1200

tisk tisk, you better watch it on the top end of the volume knob
 
You think I should get the xl? I spoke to DC audio (thorshammer on caraudio iirc), and he told me the lvl 4 is underrated, and will handle the 1200 no problem. Remember, I don't have an upgraded alt, so I doubt it will be an actual 1200w (I don't know what voltage directed tests their amps at).
 
The level 4 will not even break a sweat on 1.2k. Underground woofer companies underrate their stuff immensely. This is for warranty avoidance and also to bring higher power level handling drivers down to a wider range of customers that feel they can own something the pros are also using. Just with less power.


And yes the chances your sub will see all of that 1200 is rare. And on the off occasion, it will be short lived.

Pektel, what kind of power are you running at the moment? Do you have anything besides the yellowtop?
 
yea i dont really think that you will have a problem with it, i was just giving you some sh!t.lol. however i dont think you will have a problem getting 1200 out of the amp, thats it rated RMS so it should have no problem hitting that consistently, and the ALT wont matter since it will be pulling all of its power from straight from the battery (which will not be short on current at all) its the battery getting charged (or lack there of) that the alt will be needed for. if anything that car will just not produce enough power to keep the battery fully charged (which then will affect the power output of the amp)

but while the battery is charged, it should have no problem sending as many amps as the amplifier will accept, that combined with a very short (less resistance) thick (even less resistance) power wire
 
Can't wait to see the install pictures. Once you have in done. We should get together. I can cut and make you some beauty boards for the trunk. Make it a nice clean install look.
 
1LoudLS said:
yea i dont really think that you will have a problem with it, i was just giving you some sh!t.lol. however i dont think you will have a problem getting 1200 out of the amp, thats it rated RMS so it should have no problem hitting that consistently, and the ALT wont matter since it will be pulling all of its power from straight from the battery (which will not be short on current at all) its the battery getting charged (or lack there of) that the alt will be needed for. if anything that car will just not produce enough power to keep the battery fully charged (which then will affect the power output of the amp)

but while the battery is charged, it should have no problem sending as many amps as the amplifier will accept, that combined with a very short (less resistance) thick (even less resistance) power wire
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You must realize unless he is driving around blaring test tones, that an amps RMS is not constantly achieved during music. Some "notes" will require more power than others.
 
I noticed that you have the Metra double din kit. How well does it match? Debating whither or not to buy the DVD bezel. My Metra kit isn't installed yet, but it looks like the color is slightly off.
 
If ya'll want ideas for a killer sound system, I'll take pics of mine and post. All four of my doors are going to have 4 speakers each (2 6.5" and 2 3" horns), 16 total. 4 8" in the rear deck and 3 12" subs. I'm getting sponsored by powerbass so everything in the car will be powerbass. I removed all the factory thermostat speaker wiring and ran 2 runs of 14 gauge for the doors, center consol and rear deck (12 pairs) and 8 gauge for the subs and obviusly 1/0 for power and ground. I'm glassing the front doors as we speak, so I'll take pictures of the process. This is my second time overhauling the system, before it just to be component sets in each door. I'll tell you now, it's very hard to get high spl out of a trunk setup, while still having storage space and back seats functional.

I'd be interested to see how the op's build is coming along. To get your sound to pound loud and clear, it requires $, and lots of it.
 
djrudebwoy said:
I'll tell you now, it's very hard to get high spl out of a trunk setup, while still having storage space and back seats functional.

.
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Especially when you load up the rear shelf with 8" subs.
 
Andrizzle said:
that an amps RMS is not constantly achieved during music.

Some "notes" will require more power than others.
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and a lot of today's music has a lot of longer bass beats that have been boosted and distorted in the studio(some lil john for example has a lot of almost constant high level bass), and with the recover time in between notes, the amp will have no problem hitting the 1200W mark that it says it will, of course it not going to be outputting 1200W 100% of the time, but it will output 1200W some of the time, whit his choice in subs, it shouldn't be a problem, however somebody reading this with lesser equipment might not be able to over power the sub by 20% and get away with it for very long, and i just want to make sure that it has at least been said, when you are over powering your equipment, you need to need to do so with at least some caution
 
hey guys. the system is almost done. It was a LOT more complicated than we had envisioned. but it turns out the double din receiver we put in looked like sh*t so i just took it out today. So I went out and bought another one. a Kenwood KVT514. It's a single din with a flipout monitor. All you single din guys out there happy?
Now i just have to find another kit cause it obviously won't fit.
But to answer a couple questions, Yes, the metra kit was great. It fit in perfectly and the finish was basically the same as the factory.
And Rollin, I think my LS is gonna start crying if i put it next to yours. The headlights will literally start leaking and i'll be forced to spend more making it look comparable.
 
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