chris2523
93 Mark VIII
i've seen used kooks go for that, so nah.
and i would say for most, cobra manifolds are more than plenty.
and i would say for most, cobra manifolds are more than plenty.
New to me advice
- Thread starter OU812IC
- Start date
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
The exact reason I am asking. The common fitment is I found was 96-03 cobra. I was skeptical that just because the manifolds fit the headers will to. Could be an expensive mistake. I can do a lot of things and will try almost anything once, he'll that's how I got married. Making headers or cutting them up to fit and weld in is not my thing. I would rather have you tear the wire harnesses out of the car and cut it in half.
Unbelievable.... I am still waiting on the blower mounting bracket kit from Superchargers Online....grrrr anyone have any other place to get the stuff from? They have been "another week" for over a month. I ordered it early October... The 6 or 7th...
This weekend I am doing the gears and posi unit followed up with the fuel pump.
This weekend I am doing the gears and posi unit followed up with the fuel pump.
Look what I got today!!! Finally!
I am off Friday so the build shall begin...
Paxton 1500
Injectors
New Spark Plugs
Cobra Intake and IMRC delete
Cooling system head mod with crossover delete
410s and posi carrier
AEM 340LPH fuel pump
93 driveshaft
Heater door motor
What am I missing?
Should I start a new thread or keep adding to this one or one of my others where I was asking a bunch of questions?
Shouldn't take much more than a day right?.... LOL
Hoping to be done by the end of New Years weekend.
Thanks for all the help to get me this far!
Phase one complete!
The what a pain in the @ss. Original exhaust and everything else on a rust belt car.
Fuel pump wasn't too bad. I had to get a 97 pump assembly to get the offset pump height hump assembly.
Love the 410 gears and going sideways when I hammer the gas. From a roll it lays patches through first gear and well into second. I did put a 93 driveshaft in with the front yoke off my driveshaft to maintain the same overall length, new ujoints of course and they all move silky smooth.
I have an vibration at 60 mph and continues up to 80 where I let off. I can feather it a bit with the gas pedal. Slightly louder under a load while feathering the pedal.
The gear setup went perfect. New ford performance stuff including axle bearings in the housing. The only thing I can think of is the pinion torque was at the higher end at 25 inch pounds. If the driveshaft was out of balance it wouldn't change whether it was under a load or not right? If I kick it into neutral and rev the motor, nothing changes. In a parking lot no noise, going in circles and figure 8s.
About 3000RPM at 65...
Is there a chance that there is something in the trans? It shifts out really nice. I was going to do the Jmod but it shifts so nice that I I think I am going to hold off. Maybe after the blower goes in....
I really don't want to have to do this ever again!!! I did the whole job by myself in the garage at home on jack stands. I spent more time working on the gear setup than I did taking everything apart and putting it back together. 2 days, 12 pack of Beer, 2 cans of Monster, 2 packs of cigarettes, 2 smashed fingers.
The what a pain in the @ss. Original exhaust and everything else on a rust belt car.
Fuel pump wasn't too bad. I had to get a 97 pump assembly to get the offset pump height hump assembly.
Love the 410 gears and going sideways when I hammer the gas. From a roll it lays patches through first gear and well into second. I did put a 93 driveshaft in with the front yoke off my driveshaft to maintain the same overall length, new ujoints of course and they all move silky smooth.
I have an vibration at 60 mph and continues up to 80 where I let off. I can feather it a bit with the gas pedal. Slightly louder under a load while feathering the pedal.
The gear setup went perfect. New ford performance stuff including axle bearings in the housing. The only thing I can think of is the pinion torque was at the higher end at 25 inch pounds. If the driveshaft was out of balance it wouldn't change whether it was under a load or not right? If I kick it into neutral and rev the motor, nothing changes. In a parking lot no noise, going in circles and figure 8s.
About 3000RPM at 65...
Is there a chance that there is something in the trans? It shifts out really nice. I was going to do the Jmod but it shifts so nice that I I think I am going to hold off. Maybe after the blower goes in....
I really don't want to have to do this ever again!!! I did the whole job by myself in the garage at home on jack stands. I spent more time working on the gear setup than I did taking everything apart and putting it back together. 2 days, 12 pack of Beer, 2 cans of Monster, 2 packs of cigarettes, 2 smashed fingers.
slowmkviii
Dedicated LVC Member
Awesome that you got it going.
Didn't see in your post that you got the drive shaft balanced. My 93 shaft too a decent amount of weight.
If that doesn't fix it make sure tires are good and balanced. And after that you may need a new shaft.
Didn't see in your post that you got the drive shaft balanced. My 93 shaft too a decent amount of weight.
If that doesn't fix it make sure tires are good and balanced. And after that you may need a new shaft.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
sounds like the drive shaft could use a balance, or you might need some need u joints.
Once I get the the Super Charger in it is going to be a tire shreading beast! after all this stuff is done i think the big battle is going to be able to find a way to make it hook!
It acts just like a bad U Joint but I put new ones in and they are silky smooth. I have been in auto repair for almost 30 years. Done hundreds of U Joints but only a handful of Differential jobs. The last set of gears I did was in the 90's. I am sure it is not tires or wheel bearings.
I questioned the balance of the shaft big time and wished I would have had it balanced, no good reason other than lack of better planning. Then I thought about it for a few minutes and the tone of the vibration changes with load on the drivetrain JUST LIKE a bad U Joint. I know it is not a U Joint. The only thing that I can think of that acts JUST LIKE a U Joint is a pinion bearing.
I think tomorrow after work I am going to try and get the shaft out of the way enough to get to the pinion nut and back it off a tad and see what happens. If it gets quieter I am on to something. If not, I guess I am pulling the SOB a part again... GRRRR
It acts just like a bad U Joint but I put new ones in and they are silky smooth. I have been in auto repair for almost 30 years. Done hundreds of U Joints but only a handful of Differential jobs. The last set of gears I did was in the 90's. I am sure it is not tires or wheel bearings.
I questioned the balance of the shaft big time and wished I would have had it balanced, no good reason other than lack of better planning. Then I thought about it for a few minutes and the tone of the vibration changes with load on the drivetrain JUST LIKE a bad U Joint. I know it is not a U Joint. The only thing that I can think of that acts JUST LIKE a U Joint is a pinion bearing.
I think tomorrow after work I am going to try and get the shaft out of the way enough to get to the pinion nut and back it off a tad and see what happens. If it gets quieter I am on to something. If not, I guess I am pulling the SOB a part again... GRRRR
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
Before you mess with the pinion nut, unbolt the driveshaft at the pinion flange and clock it differently. Mark it with a paint stick before you start and try a different clock position. If it changes, find the clock position on the flange that gives the best results. You can then remark the flange before you pull the driveshaft and have it balanced.
I did end up backing the nut of 1/8". It got better. Went another 1/4 and went back to the way it was, shaking.
While doing this I noticed the clutches are not holding. I could shove my knee into one tire to hold it and push the other in the opposite direction, obviously the driveshaft spun too.
I pulled it. I had it on the bench in 45 minutes. I am getting good at this, well the bolts were all lubed up, had the tools out, and I knew what I was doing this time around. Dropped the gas tank bolts down to the the very bottom of the threads and slipped the drive shaft out over the top of the tank. The tank was half full.
Backlash is still .012. Now the pinion spins super loose, didnt measure but i know it is well under what it should have been. Carrier bearings and races look like I took them out of the box. The inner pinion race is gray, bearing looks like it has 100K. The outter by the yoke is kinda gray and bearing a little scored also but not as bad.
Drive shaft was a tad out of balance but he said not bad enough to cause any sever vibration. He did say that it is straight as an arrow. He touched up the balance and it is now perfect. The driveshaft guy told me too keep looking for the problem. He said maybe doing 100-120 I may have had a shake that would rattle the mirror and make noise but not 50-70.
Plan unless you guys have a better idea..
I ordered carbon fiber clutches.. M-4700-c
New inner amd outer bearing and races with sleeve
Get a different inch LB torque wrench, I don't trust the one I borrowed.
Tighten the backlash closer to the minimum spec.
Debating new gear set or go back to the 3.27. The way it is with the 410s ... from a idle/5 mph roll it burns tires through 1st gear and 3-5 seconds into 2nd before it moves. With the Paxton going in it is going to fry them. What do you think? Say screw it and put on DRs? It is a street car with no intended track use.
Sure is fun though I have to say! Not the tear it a part time..
While doing this I noticed the clutches are not holding. I could shove my knee into one tire to hold it and push the other in the opposite direction, obviously the driveshaft spun too.
I pulled it. I had it on the bench in 45 minutes. I am getting good at this, well the bolts were all lubed up, had the tools out, and I knew what I was doing this time around. Dropped the gas tank bolts down to the the very bottom of the threads and slipped the drive shaft out over the top of the tank. The tank was half full.
Backlash is still .012. Now the pinion spins super loose, didnt measure but i know it is well under what it should have been. Carrier bearings and races look like I took them out of the box. The inner pinion race is gray, bearing looks like it has 100K. The outter by the yoke is kinda gray and bearing a little scored also but not as bad.
Drive shaft was a tad out of balance but he said not bad enough to cause any sever vibration. He did say that it is straight as an arrow. He touched up the balance and it is now perfect. The driveshaft guy told me too keep looking for the problem. He said maybe doing 100-120 I may have had a shake that would rattle the mirror and make noise but not 50-70.
Plan unless you guys have a better idea..
I ordered carbon fiber clutches.. M-4700-c
New inner amd outer bearing and races with sleeve
Get a different inch LB torque wrench, I don't trust the one I borrowed.
Tighten the backlash closer to the minimum spec.
Debating new gear set or go back to the 3.27. The way it is with the 410s ... from a idle/5 mph roll it burns tires through 1st gear and 3-5 seconds into 2nd before it moves. With the Paxton going in it is going to fry them. What do you think? Say screw it and put on DRs? It is a street car with no intended track use.
Sure is fun though I have to say! Not the tear it a part time..
A few minutes of sanity before the inlaws and outlaws get here.
Against my better judgement I proceeded to put it back together without the new clutches and gears. New pinion bearings and different torque wrenches.
Since these are used gears and new bearing s I went to the tight side since last time I was a little on the loose side. Pinion 25inchlbs and back lash was .008.
It is a bit better than before but still vibrates. I took it on a 40 mile run and it seemed to get a little better.
Have you guys ever gotten a bad carrier, out of round or anything?
Debating a new carrier but I am having a tough time swallowing the price. I found a new 31 spline cobra for $200 locally. Not really thrilled about buying new axles though. I guess I have to get 2001-03 Cobras.
What do you think about a spool of some type? My basic research seems to land me at $500 or more regardless of I want to go new parts carrier wise.
The next swing I take is going to have new gears. I have a feeling there is something up with them.
Until I guess this sorted out I am going to start on the intake and SC swap tomorrow.
Thank you in advance for the suggestions.
Merry Christmas!! Sorry not a PC happy holiday guy.
Against my better judgement I proceeded to put it back together without the new clutches and gears. New pinion bearings and different torque wrenches.
Since these are used gears and new bearing s I went to the tight side since last time I was a little on the loose side. Pinion 25inchlbs and back lash was .008.
It is a bit better than before but still vibrates. I took it on a 40 mile run and it seemed to get a little better.
Have you guys ever gotten a bad carrier, out of round or anything?
Debating a new carrier but I am having a tough time swallowing the price. I found a new 31 spline cobra for $200 locally. Not really thrilled about buying new axles though. I guess I have to get 2001-03 Cobras.
What do you think about a spool of some type? My basic research seems to land me at $500 or more regardless of I want to go new parts carrier wise.
The next swing I take is going to have new gears. I have a feeling there is something up with them.
Until I guess this sorted out I am going to start on the intake and SC swap tomorrow.
Thank you in advance for the suggestions.
Merry Christmas!! Sorry not a PC happy holiday guy.
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
That's the way I've always set them up... new bearings should be on the tight side of the specs and used ones on the loose side since new bearings will wear in and end up slightly looser than the initial install.
Today was a hell of a day.. Then again I do not recall reading that this was going to be easy.
Got the air tubes removed and capped. I would say it is nickel and diming me but it is more like quarter. I have to pull the pump out of the wheel well still.
Valve covers and Spark Plugs are done. Have to get a new ignition coil. One of them were broken. How I did not have a miss is beyond me. The passenger side was leaking really bad. The spark plug socket was soaked in oil. Heads were pretty clean.
Intake, IMRC, motor and module off. Man were those things nasty! For the life of me I cannot understand why you would leave these **** collectors in....Well, the module is a real mother to get out so that may be a good reason.
AC lines figured out and mounting plate mocked up. I have to reclock the blower a little, it seems like it was set for a aftercooler. I am going to hold off on puting an aftercooler on. The previous owner helicoiled some of the mounting holes and I have to redo them.
Gutted the cooling system, hoses and lines speaking. That wasn't too bad. I got lucky with the crossover tube, it basically came right out. Received some of the On3 Performance stuff Tuesday but they forgot the cooling head mod stuff and sent me a dual sensor kit instead of a single. I should have the missing items early next week. The rear freeze plug came out pretty easy. I forgot to order the lower hose for a SN95 and did that this afternoon, my local napa didn't have it. In fact the Milwaukee nor the Chicago warehouse had it!
Anybody need any parts or should I ask of this stuff is worth anything?
Is the intake worth anything or should I just take it to the recycler and get $.30/LB for it? LOL
Thanks again for the help!
Got the air tubes removed and capped. I would say it is nickel and diming me but it is more like quarter. I have to pull the pump out of the wheel well still.
Valve covers and Spark Plugs are done. Have to get a new ignition coil. One of them were broken. How I did not have a miss is beyond me. The passenger side was leaking really bad. The spark plug socket was soaked in oil. Heads were pretty clean.
Intake, IMRC, motor and module off. Man were those things nasty! For the life of me I cannot understand why you would leave these **** collectors in....Well, the module is a real mother to get out so that may be a good reason.
AC lines figured out and mounting plate mocked up. I have to reclock the blower a little, it seems like it was set for a aftercooler. I am going to hold off on puting an aftercooler on. The previous owner helicoiled some of the mounting holes and I have to redo them.
Gutted the cooling system, hoses and lines speaking. That wasn't too bad. I got lucky with the crossover tube, it basically came right out. Received some of the On3 Performance stuff Tuesday but they forgot the cooling head mod stuff and sent me a dual sensor kit instead of a single. I should have the missing items early next week. The rear freeze plug came out pretty easy. I forgot to order the lower hose for a SN95 and did that this afternoon, my local napa didn't have it. In fact the Milwaukee nor the Chicago warehouse had it!
Anybody need any parts or should I ask of this stuff is worth anything?
Is the intake worth anything or should I just take it to the recycler and get $.30/LB for it? LOL
Thanks again for the help!
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
which two housings?
The out/exit/impeller side I will call it and the main body. I have to turn it from the 6 o'clock to the 9 o'clock.
I started to clean off the rtv. Then read up a little and no one talked about rtv. A Paxton instruction document in particular mentioned it was clean with no "seal" or sealer.
I started to clean off the rtv. Then read up a little and no one talked about rtv. A Paxton instruction document in particular mentioned it was clean with no "seal" or sealer.
Lownslowlsc
Dedicated LVC Member
I don't think I've said it yet, but great progress thread! Can't wait to see the finished product.
Svets96
Dedicated LVC Member
Very nice car indeed. Great work on performance upgrades too! Good to hear it will be a summer cruiser.
Going to subscribe to this thread.
Keep on the updates
Going to subscribe to this thread.
Keep on the updates
WTF are the letters of the day.
Got the fitting the oil pan and the air pump pulled from the left fender well.
Mocked up the sc and bracket.
Slip the radiator fan up from underneath. Then we have a problem
Any ideas? All the reading I have done prior I didn't notice the problem.
All ears.
Got the fitting the oil pan and the air pump pulled from the left fender well.
Mocked up the sc and bracket.
Slip the radiator fan up from underneath. Then we have a problem
Any ideas? All the reading I have done prior I didn't notice the problem.
All ears.
driller
Dedicated LVC Member
You can modify the radiator mount and gain almost an inch.
You can trim the shroud and gain more room as well.
If that's not enough, you might be able to use a low profile carb hat.
These are all from memory of what I've seen in the past.
You can trim the shroud and gain more room as well.
If that's not enough, you might be able to use a low profile carb hat.
These are all from memory of what I've seen in the past.
I think it is time for a beer....
I pulled the upper mounts for the radiator and gained a 1/2" or so. It then hot the head of the bolt for the condenser, I pulled that bolt and gained about 3/16".
I have another elbow that is significantly smaller than the ass sucker I have in the pic.
At this point I have enough for the elbow but it will rub on the radiator fins.
I pulled the upper mounts for the radiator and gained a 1/2" or so. It then hot the head of the bolt for the condenser, I pulled that bolt and gained about 3/16".
I have another elbow that is significantly smaller than the ass sucker I have in the pic.
At this point I have enough for the elbow but it will rub on the radiator fins.
I spent sometime searching and it sounds like there is a possibility to put it a smaller radiator under the header panel. One of the options looks like a cobra radiator 2003-4. The ones I can find are either plastic or used aluminum, some new aluminum.
Either case there are no current pictures, none of the leads I could find had pics. Everything had broken links.
Any details I can get would be appreciated.
Thanks again for all the help.
Either case there are no current pictures, none of the leads I could find had pics. Everything had broken links.
Any details I can get would be appreciated.
Thanks again for all the help.
I did some more measuring and I think this will fit very easily. The only thing is that it has a radiator cap. With it being tucked under the header I don't think I will ever be able to access it. Then again I really don't need it. I an sure I can delete the over flow bottle tube on the radiator and put in the recurculating fitting to go back to the degas bottle. It is a little narrowner and shorter but it is a two row and all aluminim. It is a little on the thick side, 3" What do you think?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Northern-20...ash=item58d0229300:g:Cc0AAOSwAYtWLht2&vxp=mtr
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Northern-20...ash=item58d0229300:g:Cc0AAOSwAYtWLht2&vxp=mtr