joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes.
There are actually at least three or four different ETC failsafe modes. They range from you can hardly tell any difference all the way to the engine runs at idle only (no throttle response at all).
Out of ideas, can't fix ETC Failsafe.. Please help.
- Thread starter lincoln_zero
- Start date
Yes.
There are actually at least three or four different ETC failsafe modes. They range from you can hardly tell any difference all the way to the engine runs at idle only (no throttle response at all).
LADYLINC
New LVC Member
c
LADYLINC
New LVC Member
LADYLINC
New LVC Member
2003 LS V8 125K miles. Had the ETC Failure issue - tried the coils/plugs/EGR valve/throttle position sensor - no help still ETC - car ran fine but in Limp Mode as was detecting a condition that indicated car was unsafe to drive. Good mechanic replaced the ABS control module issue cleared runs like new. Cost was no fun. Part $558 from ford/remove & replace $63/reprogram ETC-ABS $105 but it ended my frustration and wife is happy again. Don't know if your model is similar enough that this may apply - but throwing out there because I "Been there Done That" with the total what do I try next situation.
Good Luck
Good Luck
LADYLINC
New LVC Member
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Who would've thought the ABS Module would put a car into Failsafe but you're proof it happened ...I just wonder with so many sensors and different situations that each individual LS can have we would have to keep in mind what Joegr said
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Yes, that’s one of the etc failsafes. The abs provides vehicle speed info, and the etc needs that for full operation. I don’t know why there was any mystery on that ones. The ford specific codes would point straight at that one.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
So did you hook up a code reader to the LS when it was going into Failsafe?
lincoln_zero
Dedicated LVC Member
Ok, so explain this then: My FIRST LS (The 2002, sold it years ago) would throw an ABS light when it was -5 Celsius out and ABS would not work ONLY in cold conditions. Yet despite this, never got a code on my Xcal, nor did any of my mechanics report a code to me and they have the $10,000 snap-on scanners. What gives? I ignored it and just manually pumped the breaks when it was that cold out.
Also, this current LS of mine (04) randomly shoots a "Low break fluid" if I take a corner hard. SUPER SELDOM, like maybe had it 3 times in the year I've owned it. But I've scanned this car a million times and with mechanics scanners and haven't gotten any codes related to ABS.
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04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
LZ... You may find this interesting:
3000 RPM Rev Limiter, Mysterious Issues | 2003 Lincoln LS | 3.9 | Dewitz Diagnostic Solutions | Automotive Training and Diagnostics
3000 RPM Rev Limiter, Mysterious Issues | 2003 Lincoln LS | 3.9 | Dewitz Diagnostic Solutions | Automotive Training and Diagnostics
lincoln_zero
Dedicated LVC Member
"What I think was happening is the coil would only fail under very high load and when it would fail, the voltage spike was always big enough to knock the PCM down."
So potentially my $30 coils are not quality enough for the Tune, considering the ETC Failsafe only happened once I put the tune on it. And when I rev up, the coil is sending high voltage through my system, tripping the PCM.
Thing is brother, I dont have the equipment to test the coils, and I have to keep paying mechanics for their labour. But yes, I did buy the $30 Standard instead of the $60 Standard coils. I mean, heck, I used to buy $8 ebay coils on my FIRST LS (2002) and that had a tune. I guess standard coils are less than $8 value but overcharged =p
Ok so heres where I'm at then. My fuel mileage has gone down recently (it is winter now, but its down by a full Liter /100kms).
I cant afford to pay FoMoCo $1500 CAD for coils.
I read on here that few members bought the Accel Mustang coils. They are a solid price on Amazon. Just have to reverse the terminal +/- on the plug.
https://www.amazon.ca/ACCEL-140032-8-Super-Coil-Kit/dp/B001O0BJUK
Any thoughts or feedback on these? My mechanic says Accel are amazing, he loves those plugs. But I'd appreciate feedback from the LVC community.
AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
There is a saying that goes like this....." Sometimes you just gotta let the big Dogs eat" ...Buy them and try them ....Sometimes life is a gamble and you have to roll the dice...
lincoln_zero
Dedicated LVC Member
I lost the draw on the Standard coils, thats for sure.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
Some Mustang guys hate them, but I'm at 35 or 40,000 miles on them over the last 5.5 years. Only issues have been from broken connectors from the pin swap and a misfire when the wiper arm gasket failed and poured water on the uncovered coils
lincoln_zero
Dedicated LVC Member
Mustang guys hate them - I'm assuming that means they are getting a bad batch and have misfires (according to one oft he amazon comments). Sound like quality control problems.
for the gasket, I plan on doing a dremel mod to allow the tops to pop through but keep a tight seal around the block.
lincoln_zero
Dedicated LVC Member
So I'm not trying to be cheap or anything, but these ones have better reviews than the Accel and cost significantly less. They're Bravex.
https://www.amazon.ca/Bravex-Igniti...ang+ignition+coils&qid=1576266635&sr=8-6&th=1
Ad Says:
Will these work?
https://www.amazon.ca/Bravex-Igniti...ang+ignition+coils&qid=1576266635&sr=8-6&th=1
Ad Says:
- Professional Racing Coil, OE level durability. 2 Years Warranty !
- Compatible to: 3L3E12A366CA,3L3Z12029BA, DG511, FD508, E508, 5C1584, C1541
- Top grade Silicone magnetic steel, German copper wire and high temperature epoxy.
- Manufactured in facility TS16949 quality control system certified
- Maximum Fuel Mileage & Throttle Response.
Will these work?
04_Sport_LS
Dedicated LVC Member
Possibly. The coils you bought were the "T series" coils... and they have been made in China for a few years now. I forget the more expensive series name... but I believe they are made in the U.S. still... and are of higher quality.
The Accel coils will work... but as you noted, you have to change the polarity of the connector. Also... IIRC... the boot is angled and will not line up properly without some tweaking. At least one member built custom brackets to make them work.
However... considering your other issues... I would first do a full inspection of your wiring harnesses, to make sure there is no other damage.
Also... I would try to locate all of your grounding points for the harnesses... and make sure there is no corrosion or breaks. This would include where the coils mount to the heads. And even at the PCM.
Bad grounds can cause all kinds of issues... and I could see voltage backfeeding to the PCM if something isn't grounded properly.
You also mentioned in your original thread... that the TPS had been replaced. If an inferior part was installed... or the part was not installed properly... it might be going "out of range" or have a bad spot in it.
Electrical gremlins are a beotch... and can be very hard to diagnose.
Something else to consider...
While you may have gotten away with cheap coils on your Gen 1... the Gen 2 engine is a slightly different animal... with more moving parts, and more things to monitor and actuate... putting more load on the PCM to control.
Personally... I wouldn't buy any auto parts from Ebay. Most of the parts are suspect and inferior... unless you are buying "New Old Stock" OEM parts.
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Dan Swenson
Active LVC Member
I’m having a similar issue on my 04 V8. I bought the car from a coworker, the car sat for two years due to him not being able to figure out why it was only running on 4 cylinders. I came to the conclusion after testing that it was not getting spark pulse on the 4 dead cylinders. I bought a new pcm, and then went to the dealer and had them flash the computer. Drove it home was running good. Drove it for a couple days and kept getting etc failsafe. Read lots of threads and decided to put some new coils on it since the once’s the previous owner bought were amazon coils I bought a set of ngk coils and motorcraft platinum plugs. Ran fine for a couple days, etc failsafe again! Now when mine goes into etc failsafe it will start misfiring on multiple cylinders. The cylinders are the same per event, but once I clear the codes and restart it it could be other cylinders, usually 4 at a time. Mind you also, that cold start is usually fine, but once it reaches operating temp is when it acts up. I checked the coil connectors once it begins misfiring and the light seems as if it’s getting voltage surges on the misfiring cylinders. The only dtc I get is P2107. Sometimes I’ll get a stuck lean or stuck rich code randomly. I also noticed my service park brake light has started coming on. Also, when I give it throttle it begins to clears up until letting off. I need some help also. Did you find the issue with yours yet? Does it sound like the pcm is getting voltage spikes? Could it really be that picky to need motorcraft coils?! Also, where are the grounds that I should check?
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AmsterDutch
Dedicated LVC Member
Have you did a compression test?
lincoln_zero
Dedicated LVC Member
Nope.
Mine had a custom tune. I pulled the tune and so far no fail safe.
A certain mechanic I've been to suspects it's the throttle body on my LS. But to be honest, this car has exhausted me to even bother trying to figure it out.
For you, I recommend you try sea foaming your engine. I prefer the air can (not the liquid one). You'll need a buddy to hold it at 2500 rpm or whatever the can says.
Clean your throttle body. See if that helps.
Dan Swenson
Active LVC Member
Gotcha. My throttle body is brand new. I think I may try motorcraft coils and if that doesn’t fix it, I’m done lol
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You should have done that the other way around. Motorcraft coils and NGK plugs. Did you verify that the gaps on all the plugs were at 1.0mm? Every set that I have bought had at least two that were wrong.
Dan Swenson
Active LVC Member
I know I know. I was trying to be cheap and I think I’m regretting it. Gaps are good. I double checked it. Ran good for two days after i adjusted them and them acting up. You think motorcraft coils are really that more superior? I mean if they are, I’ll buy them. What ngk plugs should I get?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The Visteon coils were good back when you could get them. The last Motorcraft coils that I put in have several years and well over 100K miles on them (same applies to the Visteons in my other LS). NGK BKR5EGP were the plugs that came from the factory in my 2006, and are what I am still using. I think there is a grade or two higher that you can go if you really want to.