Running warm, tried to burp

admitedly, I need to re-edumacate myself more on using data capture on the handheld...my XCAL2 has a custom (shelf script, actually) tune for that car's pcm, tune is installed,
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with car running and handheld plugged into OBD2, I scroll down to the category DATA CAPTURE then select SETUP and get the msg: NO FILES LOADED...i tried to install appropriate files previously and hit a dead end, granted that was trying to setup LiveLink through win7 laptop...try try again, maybe also call the guy who put the tune on there, make sure it's Firmware 1.10?
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btw, 3 days on the 0w-30 now, much less clack noise upon cold startup, none later in the day...thx for the tip RC
 
I tired doing this several months ago then gave up, this time it worked
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installed LiveLink 6.5, then used this page to get it set up, coolant temp is under environmental when choosing parameters (options) to graph-
 
hooked up my X2 to car B) and drove it tonight to get digital temp readings; as expected, the rough equivalencies are
O=210-215ish
R= 195-205ish
M=190
A=180
my car got over 180 pretty quick, stayed around 195-205 and shot up to about 210-212
turned the eatc heater on to about 90 deg and coolant temp dropped to around 195;
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continued driving (cruising) under steady light load (50 mph 1500 rpms) and the car stayed around 195-205; it never went down to 185 with a new 185 tstat;
slowed to a stop, pulled into the garage and temp shot up to around 210-215, with a brief glimpse of 220. parked and let it idle at 500 rpms, temp went down slowly to around 195, shut off
outside air temp 68 deg
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I'm confident it's burped, i paid someone to replace the radiator around 50k and 6 years ago; recent prestone flush;
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to get it to stay about 10 deg cooler should i look at water pump? radi?
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today i drove car A) 110 miles, mostly highway, a good chunk of it interstate stop/go traffic jam... it never rose above 180-185ish
 
That sounds somewhat similar to my car. Yesterday in stop and go traffic it got up between the R and O, but it comes back down once out of stop and go. My fan comes on at the right time and the water pump is new as is the thermostat. I'm thinking radiator in my case. It was about 70 degrees here yesterday. I have a 180 Stant t-stat.
 
racecougar said:
What temp is the fan coming on at?
Click to expand...
in car B) ? (car B is the brown mark, the one running warm/ hot)
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I'll try to check again, but I think it's coming on somewhere over 195 (which occurs while driving, not parked) fan comes on with heat or a/c, as designed
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on Car A I was wrong, it stays in A on the the temp needle gauge, which coresponds to a digital reading of 190-195 deg...not 180, drove it this morning 55 highway miles and it got up to and stayed at 195, then when i stoped driving it went down, whereas car B goes UP in temp after i stop driving
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Operating temps in "Car A" sound perfectly fine to me. Operating temps in "Car B" also sound fine, until idling while stationary. Hence the fan question. What are the fan settings in the tune file? Or is the car running a stock tune?
 
the fan on car B) is running at 195-not sure when it comes on though; being a 96, it is supposed to be vari sped fan? I've yet to distinguish low vs high speeds; I've thought about swapping VRCMs (I have two extra 96s)
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only car A has the tune installed, my tuner dude (Aaron at TruDynoSports in Conover, NC) indicated he dropped the factory fan on temp setting down some from stock, which he said was really high...as in...>220?
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car B had the tune previously, but the temp (needle) fluctuation was as bad or worse than it is now
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is it posible the radi on car B has a slight breech, which allows air in without leaking coolant? that's what the orig radi on car A was doing at the overflow nipple (I broke and tried to mend it)
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I have another, unlocked and empty xcal2 on the way back to me, which I may use to Dyno tune car B locally
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having said all that; the two analog temp gauges are definitely not in synch, on car A 195 is A on the needle, on car B 195 is M to M+
 
Which is exactly why you can't rely on the factory gauge to provide you with any particularly useful information. Throwing all of this car A and car B stuff into these posts is only confusing the issue. It sounds like car A is fine. Let's stick to car B here. It's running at 195-205 while driving (which is totally fine), but at stationary idle, temps are varying from 195 to 220? While the fan is running at full speed?
 
yea, when first starting, coolant temp climbs pretty quickly, up and over 190, got over 210, then stabilized between 195-205; when I stopped it climbed over 210 and briefly flashed 220 before going down very slowly. This was around town driving, maybe 7 miles total, and I got on it pretty good
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radiator fan FINALLY came on 215 +/-.
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fwiw, I checked the other car (car A) ...fan came on at 194 deg
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when should the fan come on? how can I make it come on sooner?
 
does this sound like a ECT sensor or switch malfunction? I'm getting my temp resding from the PCM, so is that sensor related?
 
Earlier you said the fan came on at 195. :confused: It sounds like there isn't a problem. If you want to see lower coolant temps at a stationary idle, you'll need to change the fan settings in the tune file. And no, it sounds like the ECT sensor is performing as it should.
 
racecougar said:
Earlier you said the fan came on at 195. :confused: It sounds like there isn't a problem. If you want to see lower coolant temps at a stationary idle, you'll need to change the fan settings in the tune file. And no, it sounds like the ECT sensor is performing as it should.
Click to expand...

i was incorrectly guesstimating re; fan on at 195, assuming both needle gauges corresponded analog to digital...the fan definitely does not come until 215F according to the X2 data logger
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the car doesn't have a tune on it. I have one tune, currently it's on the car that's not running up to 215; tune works on both cars as both PCM box codes are the same
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when car stops moving, coolant temp spikes >215 then goes down b/c the fan is not on when I'm driving...no movement and temp goes up, fan comes on, temp goes down
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it may be time to start swaping parts to see what's not working
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factory PCM setting for FAN ON could =215?
 
Yes, the factory fan settings are in that ballpark. This is why it's always recommended that the fan settings in the tune file be corrected when going to a thermostat with a lower than factory opening temperature. Without changing the tune, your 180* tstat will only lower coolant temps when you're at speed.

If you want to swap anything, swap the tune file.
 
someone on LoD suggested it could be a bad ECT sensor?
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I seem to remember this car having this same problem for a loooong time.. Including when it had the tune on it, and before and after i paid someone $400 to r/r radiator 6 years ago. Never geting out of NORMAL, just tip-toeing around the upper limits
 
The data you're reading is coming from the ECT sensor, which correlates with what your gauge is telling you, too.

Over this "looooong time", what temp was the fan coming on at? What coolant temps were you seeing? And no, "O" isn't a temperature.

You can't expect coolant temps to drop without providing airflow across the radiator.
 
racecougar said:
Over this "looooong time", what temp was the fan coming on at? .
Click to expand...
don't know
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I just started measuring digital temps 2 days ago, last night was the first time identifying FAN ON temp. Previously I just watched the needle approach the top of NORMAL
When the X2 got up to 215 deg last night (while burping) two other events occured: fan came on and coolant began boiling violently out of the funnel. This is oem FAN ON spec design?
My tune creator says he made the fan on temp at 198, so I may try swapping the tune tonight. Pull FP and fan fuses prior to installing the tune?
 
dnsherrill said:
When the X2 got up to 215 deg last night (while burping) two other events occured: fan came on and coolant began boiling violently out of the funnel. This is oem FAN ON spec design?
Click to expand...
Again, yes. Of course the coolant will boil when the system is open. Pressure increases the boiling point.


dnsherrill said:
Pull FP and an fuses prior to installing the tune?
Click to expand...
There is no need to do so.
 
There's no micro bubbles in the coolant, right? In the DA the funnel would fill but there were also tiny bubbles in the coolant. This is because there was a small head gasket breach. With the system sealed the coolant flow would be limited at lower speeds due to the back pressure. At higher speeds I believe the water pump was able to overcome the back pressure and the temp would come down. As the breach became worse it became harder to get the temp down, eventually nearly impossible. Now it's someone else's problem.

It's pretty unlikely you have a head gasket leak but a very slight leak could give the symptoms you describe. A hydrocarbon test should rule that out, although with a very small leak it might not fail the test. Mine passed the test after using Blue Devil but I still think I had some microbubbles. Eventually the bubbles got worse and it again failed the test.
If you can rule out a head gasket leak, I don't know what else is left other than the radiator.

BTW my temp gauge hardly moved the last two days in stop and go traffic, even though several days ago it did. Outside temp is about the same. Go figure.
 
Maybe microbubles isn't even the best description because as mine got worse it was slightly foamy. I looked like someone had squeezed a little dish soap in there.
 
:slam The coolant temps stay between 195-205 while the vehicle is in motion, and only go up while stationary until the fan kicks on. There isn't a problem here. If you want to decrease coolant temps while stationary, lower the fan settings in the tune.

I'm out.
 
racecougar said:
:slam The coolant temps stay between 195-205 while the vehicle is in motion, and only go up while stationary until the fan kicks on.
Click to expand...
no
that's on car A) my normal patient- it stays at 198 for highway cruising, fan starts at 194, barely ever breaks 200 while driving.......with tune installed for 198 FAN ON
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my SICK patient is car B)....which, when idling, goes up to 215, while driving stays around 205-215...FAN ON at 215...could be ECT sensor, could be VCRM- i.e. variable speed fan only comes on at 100% power, not 50%

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no foamy coolant in funnel or in x-over tube, no coolant loss
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tonight I'll get an IR handheld thermometer to confirm the 215 as read by the PCM
 
dnsherrill said:
----my SICK patient is car B)....which, when idling, goes up to 215, while driving stays around 205-215...
Click to expand...
What? :confused: Your story changes more often than a thief.


dnsherrill said:
continued driving (cruising) under steady light load (50 mph 1500 rpms) and the car stayed around 195-205; it never went down to 185 with a new 185 tstat;
slowed to a stop, pulled into the garage and temp shot up to around 210-215, with a brief glimpse of 220. parked and let it idle at 500 rpms, temp went down slowly to around 195, shut off
Click to expand...
racecougar said:
Let's stick to car B here. It's running at 195-205 while driving (which is totally fine), but at stationary idle, temps are varying from 195 to 220? While the fan is running at full speed?
Click to expand...
dnsherrill said:
yea, when first starting, coolant temp climbs pretty quickly, up and over 190, got over 210, then stabilized between 195-205; when I stopped it climbed over 210 and briefly flashed 220 before going down very slowly. This was around town driving, maybe 7 miles total, and I got on it pretty good
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Click to expand...

Once again, "Car A" sounds fine. Let's leave it out of this, as it's just adding to the confusion.

So now the car is seeing 205-215* while at speed (above 45 MPH)? And it's reaching 215* while stationary, at which point the fan kicks on and drops the temp? The car has a RT1085 tstat in it? Are you running UD pulleys?
 
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