Should i move my post to this forum???
- Thread starter lastonestandin
- Start date
lastonestandin
LVC Member
Guys, i just got into a long convo with another ecm retailer that i met off of ebay, which for side note info is selling the ecm programmed for around 350....but anyhow, when we got into talking, he emphasized that its extremely important with these cars to have a good charge/strong-decent battery. Well during all this work on my car, it has been sitting and the battery died some time ago, and my mechanic basically has been jumping the car every time he needs to turn it over....the retailer i have been speaking to told me that there has been plenty of cases with these cars where people have replaced numerous parts on them only to find out it was a weak battery or alternator...he stressed to me that before i even go getting a new ecm, that i definitely should get a decent, if not new battery in the car...guys is this possible a problem causing/contributing to the fail safe mode code?!??!
lastonestandin
LVC Member
Joejr, I dont think i would want to go through installing a complete new engine harness on the car, i definitely would rather get rid of it first....thats just alot of work for this car that i havent even been able to drive yet..
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
It (that you have a bad battery) certainly would have been good to know to give better advice. BTW, a bad battery is also a good way to kill the alternator.
Yes, the whole electrical system has to be good. The battery, the alternator, good ground connections everywhere (ever check those ignition RFI capacitors on the manifold?), and clean power connections. This may not be the cause of your problem(s), but it could be.
Also, note that the "ecm programmed" will still require a dealer or good scan tool to marry the PCM to the PATS and keys before your car will ever even attempt to start.
Yes, the whole electrical system has to be good. The battery, the alternator, good ground connections everywhere (ever check those ignition RFI capacitors on the manifold?), and clean power connections. This may not be the cause of your problem(s), but it could be.
Also, note that the "ecm programmed" will still require a dealer or good scan tool to marry the PCM to the PATS and keys before your car will ever even attempt to start.
lastonestandin
LVC Member
My mistake Joejr...i took it for granted.....well do you think i SHOULD REPLACE the battery first and foremost? Or at this point it doesn't matter???....
And i also understand that even if the ecm is delivered programmed, it STILL needs to be programmed for the keys and PATS...that i get because the car comes with PATS
lastonestandin
LVC Member
i understand what your saying joejr, but im tryin to do the best i can with what i can do....i currently cant drive the car due to not having a license
So i gave it to a mechanic that i feel it most capable to work on the car given not being able to drive it to find a actual Lincoln specialist....his ability is great, but yes i dont think he finds it appealing to want to FULLY scope out the wiring of the car, etc etc....kinda why i came onto this site...bottom line i really appreciate all the help you and everyone else has given me so far, i just possibly may need a little bit more help...
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Ehhhh... why do you have a car if you don't have a license. Yes, the battery needs to be good, particularly on the LS because it is very sensitive to poor power. The dealer sells the correct vented battery, and the dealer sells them for a competitive price. It's best to replace the battery and alternator together when one fails hard, because they are symbiotic; when one fails, it kills the other, and can set up a fail cycle where the alternator dies trying to charge the bad battery, and the new battery fails because the failed alternator isn't charging it.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
honestly, there are so many variables right now now, no body can possibly tell you what is wrong with it with out a lot of testing. and before ANY testing can even be started, the battery must be fully charged and in good condition.
if the mechanic has to keep jumping the car because the battery is dead, then that battery has probably already been damaged and is no good (luckily, there is also a test for that)
IMHO, there is about a 3% chance you will be able to fix the car if you keep going at it like this.
if the mechanic has to keep jumping the car because the battery is dead, then that battery has probably already been damaged and is no good (luckily, there is also a test for that)
IMHO, there is about a 3% chance you will be able to fix the car if you keep going at it like this.
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
With all due respect, the 'Motorcraft' label parts aren't magic. What we're dealing with is easily-found cheap parts that cause problems, as opposed to also easily-found quality parts.
Sixty thousand miles ago I started a significant effort to go land-speed racing with my '02 LS Sport. I installed an NX Pro nitrous oxide 'spray' system and along with an ancillary methanol delivery set-up, I set the record in E/F CC---and the record still stands.
As part of the upgrade I put in a set of Accel coils originally intended for the base 4.6 litre engine in a Mustang. I also used the Mustang-intended spark plug boots since they are designed in such a way as to seal the plug wells.
They are still working just fine, and all eight of the Accels were selling for something less than $300.
Just a FYI
KS
Sixty thousand miles ago I started a significant effort to go land-speed racing with my '02 LS Sport. I installed an NX Pro nitrous oxide 'spray' system and along with an ancillary methanol delivery set-up, I set the record in E/F CC---and the record still stands.
As part of the upgrade I put in a set of Accel coils originally intended for the base 4.6 litre engine in a Mustang. I also used the Mustang-intended spark plug boots since they are designed in such a way as to seal the plug wells.
They are still working just fine, and all eight of the Accels were selling for something less than $300.
Just a FYI
KS
Don't forget to reverse the wires on the plugs...
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
The Motorcraft label simply means that the part at least meets the required specs for the car. A lot of the parts store brands are absolute crap. A lot of the parts store brands are just good enough to last their 30 minute warranty.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
while OEM may not always be the best preforming part for a specific application, OEM parts are usually designed to last a very long time. they also must meet strict QC that a lot of aftermarket parts just don't have to.
not to mention, that OEM parts were what the car was actually designed around.
not to mention, that OEM parts were what the car was actually designed around.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
I got them for $180 two years ago on Amazon. I've seen them as low as 150, currently 203 at Accel's Amazon store. Getting them for less than half the price of MC also made it much easier to justify the cost of Iridium plugs. But reversing the pins was a PITA until the 8th one, because I broke the first 7. I made a post about it somewhere
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Vent connection?I went for a stronger battery with NAPA 850 cranking amps in my 04 LS. don-ohio^)
lastonestandin
LVC Member
Purchased the vehicle for once i received my license back, which is next month. Understand the systematic fails....purchased a new battery sunday and had it placed in.
lastonestandin
LVC Member
UPDATE: So before getting the computer replaced, i followed advice, replace battery to have fully powered system. Battery was replaced yesterday, AND just to CHECK THE ECM one last time, had my mechanic place it back in. Well yesterday once we started up the car, 0 codes showed up, car started fine, idle perfect, went into reverse w/o any issue first try, AND NO FAIL-SAFE MODE DISPLAYED etc etc. Basically the car was working great and we thought it was amazing that this simply fixed the last code(p2106)...sooo we thought. Today, my mechanic went to tighten up some final loose ends to secure the ecm/battery and stuff like that...well when he started the car up today and went to move the car into reverse, the code/check engine light arrived back annd the car quickly entered into FAIL-SAFE MODE...sooo briefly day of happiness...oh well...gone....so since no solid offers have come through on the car, possible need to make the choice to replace ecm or just drive as it is...meaning that once the car is in operating temperature and works stable, wiiith check engine light. Thoughts?
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
this would probably not last long... I'd be surprised if the problem doesn't get worse and worse...
lastonestandin
LVC Member
understood...well this sucks...kinda liked this car, but i guess i have to decide if i want to put another 500+ into the car....thanks anyhow guys....if i decide to sell it, if any of you want to purchase the aftermarket staggered wheels for OEM wheels plus cash on top, LMK....
lastonestandin
LVC Member
Run the codes again. don-ohio
My mechanic did, same 2 previous codes. P2106 and also P1000 came back up.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You've got to leave the battery connected and stop clearing the codes. You need the monitors to complete if you want to get any meaningful diagnostics. Also, it's not just the codes. There is freeze frame data associated with the last code stored. Is he reading that and troubleshooting from it? Is he graphing any of the hundreds of OBDII readable sensors on this car? Is he looking at the non-engine codes? Has he connected an in-flight recorder to capture what happens when the car stalls? Has he done any scoping?
This stuff really isn't magic. It just requires equipment, knowledge, and a willingness to be methodical.