Supercharged Ls V8

As far as I know, Aluminum heads have been around for a while, my uncle has them on his 67 camaro. Stop hatin on Honda, you can't just bolt turbo/sc's on them and run them out the door, they have to be tuned also, usually for diff driving conditions. You should research things before you talk down upon them, recently there have been civics dropping into the 7 second range, I think I saw an article about a 6 second civic.
 
Justin00LS said:
Quick,
I would love to see that old video of your s/c car that was posted on roughly the 5th page of this. The link is no good anymore.

And thank you for keeping the dream of supercharging alive!
Click to expand...


here is a new clip from today - http://www.senkofamily.com/lincolnls/images/vid.avi

sorry for the quality - we have a digital camera - but when it takes video it does not record any low tones - so all the sound is very 'tinny' (which is funny because the car is so loud)
 
Quik LS said:
here is a new clip from today - http://www.senkofamily.com/lincolnls/images/vid.avi

sorry for the quality - we have a digital camera - but when it takes video it does not record any low tones - so all the sound is very 'tinny' (which is funny because the car is so loud)
Click to expand...
OK here is a question from the uninformed. How long will that elbow last with that much flex?
 
it's pretty common on 'low-boost' applications (5-7PSI). High boost has to use 100% pipe, bead coupled or welded.
 
Is that tube/rubber boot/whatever it is, supposed to get sucked in like that on decel and blow up when the throttle is applied? What the heck is it?

Nice vid, BTW. Very cool project :D
 
yep - that is what George was taking about in the post above.

the silicon elbow connects to pieces of aluminum tubing - so in the gap between the tubing the vacuum or boost can be seen.

At idle our engines run about 18-20hg of vacuum (-9.8 psi) - so you see the elbow suck in - since the supercharger is not spinning enough to make boost and the intake bypass valve is open. When I brought the rpms up - the vacuum drops, the bypass valve closes and the boost from the supercharger builds - causing the elbow to bloat.

all normal - but can be used only on a low boost setup.
 
Since the bypass is open the flattening of the elbow doesn't affect offboost performance any does it?
 
you got it - since the by-pass is open there is very little draw coming from the supercharger side - just enough to suck in the elbows. This only occurs while I'm under heavy vacuum - at low rpms or idle - where the intake demands are minimal.
 
nice Quik, very nice... that is a cool sound to hear looking at a LS.
 
Just wondering how long before we might get some dyno pulls on this thing so we can see some numbers. It would be exciting to see what you are putting down and what we can expect when this kit becomes avaiable. I know you are still tuning so I figure it will still be a while.
 
well - 'should' be soon...

I went for my inspection 'emissions' test last saturday - failed.
- no codes - good thing
- out of the 12 sensors they test - I had three in 'not ready' status - EVAP, CATALYST, EGR SYS

so I failed because you are only allowed two in 'not ready'. Since I do not have an EGR - we blocked it at the PCM layer - so I will always fail that one - the other two are more complicated....

We do not know if I failed because of not enough drive cycles or if the tune is blocking it.... I don't think I messed with the EVAP or the Catalyst - so I should be able to pass this.....!!!!!

Torrie sent me a new tune this morning - thinks maybe he blocked more than the EGR - I uploaded it and will drive this week normally back and forth to work.... hopefully that meet the drive cycle requirements - then I'll test next weekend.

The place I found was awesome - car guys - clean shop - overlooked some 'things'....

After I pass emissions - then dyno - promise.
 
Catalyst Monitor on a Ford will not run until all other monitors are complete, so if your EGR monitor doesn't run, unless you change the conditions for catalyst, it won't run either...

The best way to make an EVAP run is to start it cold and let it idle for 15 minutes. Its looking for a >6hour cold soak, a startup with low fuel slosh.

If you havn't completed a full drive cycle, you should have had P1000, if you had no DTCs I'd say you have a glitch in your tune as a P1000 won't clear unless all monitors have run...
 
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Quik LS said:
Thanks guys -
- no tire burns from me - I just put some Goodyear F1 GS-D3 on it - seem nice. They would dyno my car since the BG RE750s were past the wear bars.....

yikes - thatr's my 4th set of tire and 3rd set of brake in 42,000 miles.....
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Lou, I also had the RE750's on and I switched back to the stock size 235X50X17. You may have a bigger rim but Firestone makes the Wide Oval tire in 235X50X17 & 245X45X17 at a much cheaper price than the RE's, even though it is basically the same tire. The way you go thru tires you may want to give them a shot next time....Thats if you liked the RE's.......Just FYI!
 
Quik LS said:
well - 'should' be soon...

I went for my inspection 'emissions' test last saturday - failed.
- no codes - good thing
- out of the 12 sensors they test - I had three in 'not ready' status - EVAP, CATALYST, EGR SYS

so I failed because you are only allowed two in 'not ready'. Since I do not have an EGR - we blocked it at the PCM layer - so I will always fail that one - the other two are more complicated....

We do not know if I failed because of not enough drive cycles or if the tune is blocking it.... I don't think I messed with the EVAP or the Catalyst - so I should be able to pass this.....!!!!!

Torrie sent me a new tune this morning - thinks maybe he blocked more than the EGR - I uploaded it and will drive this week normally back and forth to work.... hopefully that meet the drive cycle requirements - then I'll test next weekend.

The place I found was awesome - car guys - clean shop - overlooked some 'things'....

After I pass emissions - then dyno - promise.
Click to expand...

Hey quick, I was wondering what kind of tranny are u using? Have u romped on it yet or are u still being cautious? My ls is giving me heck, it has this noise like a knock which I learned today is the torque converter and it is also burning or leaking oil. I had the valve covers done but I think the shop did em wrong or something. need to pull the coils and look inside. So anyways im wondering if that tranny swap you mentioned on the mustang is worth it? I figure knowing my luck im going to replace the SOB and it will do it again about 5k miles later. What would I need just the stang torque converter and tranny or some other stuff? Im planning to do the sc project soon when I got more money. I won a m90 off ebay and sent the check but he never replied nor cashed the check. So I figure it would be in my best interest if I have to pull it anyways to get something good to do it with. I was wondering on your project since u have to pass emmisions would it be hard to put the stock parts on it if you still have em and bring it back to stock and do the emissons then bring it back to sc if it didnt work out? My 240 was like that but I didnt get to take it to emmisions because the motor blew. Thanks, Mike
 
well - I believe the rear diff will be the next weak point - so that is where I will be focused next. I have been driving fairly hard - normal - on it - everything holding up fine.

The trannie is next - after the diff.
 
TTTTTAAAAAA DDDDDDDDAAAAAA!!!!!!

all legal like. I passed with only two sensors in 'not ready' status - EGR and EVAP.


I do not have an EGR - so we block it on the PCM - and that way it fails. The EVAP is the last sensor to show a ready status - so I am told it will always fail if another sensor does



now on to performance tuning - and then dyno....


I just got my new LiveWire from Torrie yesterday..... good timing,

DSCF2338.jpg
 
Im really hoping that this thing does make it to a kit that others can buy. Its a pretty amazing job and I know I could never fab something like that on a car like this. Quik its kinda scary how much you know lol.
 
What about replacement cams? I haven't heard anyone say anything about this. Can it be done? I know there are not any "pre-ground" cam and it would be a custom grind but can it be done and can the rest of the engine take a hopped up cam?
 
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