Sway bar bushings

Hey 02V8Sport,
I am going through the same problem as most people that owns a LS. I have a 2000 LS V8 Sports. My front Suspension is making noise and I found out it is the bushings. The dealer want to charge me an arm and a leg. They don't even sell the bushing by itself. My question to you is?

Was the task of replacing the bushing easy?
What is the part number and specs I should order?
(A link to ebay or manuf. link would be great)
Any additional advise?
 
Anyone know the diameter of the rear swaybar? I'm thinking about doing both.
 
Racey Stuff

Note to all those doing sway bars and/or bushings!!!
Please see my post in regard to race parts in this regular forum and my post in my ongoing 'Land Speed LS' thread.

I NEED YOUR HELP. THANKS!!!
KS
 
So my initial quick measurement places the rear bar at 3/4" or 19mm. I believe that is what i'll order.
 
Bringing up this old thread, as I have the "clunking" issue that a lot of guys describe. I have to say, the "molded" bushings are about the dumbest thing I've seen on these cars, next to the pressurized fluid recovery tank. I have a plasma cutter so will be cutting the brackets off my '04 this weekend and replacing with the 30mm ES bushings, thanks for the great writeup and saving me some headaches.
 
First off I would like to thank 02V8Sport for his write up on how to do this. Without his initial write up I may not even attempted this. I took his info and just thought that I would add to it to try and help make it even easier, the following is what I went through changing the bushings out in my wifes 02 LS Sport.

Bushings needed (again this is for 00-02 Sport)
http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=Lincoln_LS_Front_Sway_Bar_Bushings#

OR

http://www.energysuspensionparts.com/proddetail.asp?prod=9.5171

Tools Needed:
1. Jack and Jack Stands
2. Impact and proper socket size (mine was 3/4) or lug wrench
3. Penetrating Oil ( I used Kano Kroil, I think it's the best you can get)
4. 1/4" drive socket wrench
5. 3/8" drive socket wrench
6. 5/16" socket
7. 7/32" socket
8. 10mm socket
9. 13mm socket or ratcheting box end (I used the box end)
10. 15mm socket or ratcheting box end (I used the box end)
11. 18mm socket or ratcheting box end (again I used the box end)
12. Channel Locks or Crescent wrench
13. Lots and lots of patience, or beer

First thing you are going to need to do is jack up the car and make it safe and stable.

DSC01050.jpg


Then you need to remove your wheels.

DSC01051.jpg


Once your wheels are off liberally apply your penetrating oil. Then allow it to sit for a minute or two.

DSC01052.jpg
DSC01055.jpg


Next I loosened the upper control arm 18MM nut

DSC01058.jpg


I then removed the pinion arm 18MM for better access to the strut bolt and nut (I ended up using the box end with the channel locks as a hold back to stop the whole thing from turning)

DSC01062.jpg


Then I removed the endlinks 15MM

DSC01054.jpg


I then removed the lower strut bolt and nut (nut is 21MM bolt head is 19MM)
(didn't get a picture sorry)

Then I removed all the splash shields, the large piece under the car and the smaller piece in each wheel well. There are 2 different size bolt heads 5/16 and 7/32

The small black ones are 7/32

DSC01066.jpg


The silver ones are 5/16

DSC01068.jpg


Now you can start removing your sway bar bracket bolts 13MM

DSC01067.jpg


I got the driver side off with out any issue, I used the ratcheting end wrench for the lower and I used a long extension with a universal in the end (3/8 drive) the get the top one. Had to go in through the engine bay. The passenger side however was a little more difficult. I had to remove what I assume was the DCCV. All I know is that without removing the bolts and pushing it out of the way there was no way to get to the top bolt (sorry I couldn't get a photo). There are 2 10MM bolts that were very difficult for me to get to one on the front side and one on the top, to remove. I used my 1/4 inch drive for those. Again for the sway bushings I used the box end for the lower and the long extended socket wrench through the engine bay for the top.

I just pushed the bar up a bit and took the old brackets and bushings out, they (the bushings) were totally shot.

DSC01069.jpg

DSC01070.jpg


Apply the grease that you are given with the busings (I know ES has it not sure about other brands). Replace the brackets and bushings, and just reverse the above procedures. Took me around 4 hours or so to complete everything.
 
Last edited:
Awesome write-up and pics! I'm going to be helping disfunktional with this in about 12 hours and I will be doing mine in a month or two.
 
Nice addition to the write up. That's what this forum needs more of. Good stuff!

Good luck to you, falecf4 and disfunktional
 
Yeah, wow awesome timing on the write up! I hope me and Cody can get this done in a reasonable amount of time.
 
Damn it if only I would of seen this about a month ago. Very good write up.
 
Except... he doesn't explain how big of a PITA the DCCV is when removing/installing that bushing. And I'm also very curious as to why he had to do anything with the control arm or strut mounts?

Its really not a fun job and I'd recommend to anyone thats about to tackle this. Ratcheting wrenches! 13mm most importantly.
 
diskfunktional said:
Except... he doesn't explain how big of a PITA the DCCV is when removing/installing that bushing. And I'm also very curious as to why he had to do anything with the control arm or strut mounts?

Its really not a fun job and I'd recommend to anyone thats about to tackle this. Ratcheting wrenches! 13mm most importantly.
Click to expand...

+ infinity

A second hand helps also when trying to line up a socket with a bolt you can't even see!
 
diskfunktional said:
Except... he doesn't explain how big of a PITA the DCCV is when removing/installing that bushing. And I'm also very curious as to why he had to do anything with the control arm or strut mounts?

Its really not a fun job and I'd recommend to anyone thats about to tackle this. Ratcheting wrenches! 13mm most importantly.
Click to expand...

I'm not really sure about the control arm or strut bolt either. I did them because that is what the precious write up had in it. I'm pretty sure that you can get away without removing or loosening them. The DCCV was the biggest pita about the whole job!! +1 on the ratcheting wrenches, I don't think that the socket wrench was even able to get into the space where the sway bracket bolts are, except the upper ones, since they had a very long extension on them.
 
When i did mine I left that most difficult DCCV bolt off. Not struggling with that one again. lol.
 
Lol same here. Before I put the covers back on though I did put loctite on the one remaining bolt holding the DCCV in.

Heres a picture of one installed.

IMG_20110426_193930-1.jpg
 
If I remember right it took about 4.5hrs with a trip to the parts store because I couldn't find my 10mm short socket. And it was a desperate attempt to find some ratcheting sockets haha. Not to bad of a job but my hands are still cut up. The gratitude of a silent suspension though. Priceless :)
 
If you are going to drop the end links, might as well put new bushings in those too. Anyone have any ideas what sizes they would be?
 
Fantastic, thanks for all this work ... makes it easier for others.

I have to change mine out and now feel confident I can do it on my own.

little side note here:
(from Energy Suspension)


Color

Energy Suspension makes parts in 2 colors. Red and Black.

How are these two colors different?

The only difference between the red and black parts is that most Black Energy
Suspension parts are Graphite Impregnated. This serves to help self lubricate
the bushings. The Red parts do not have this characteristic.

Aside from the actual color and the lack of being Graphite Impregnated
- the red parts are essentially the same as the black.



I thought that the RED parts were harder and more performance oriented?

This is a common misconception. The red parts have the same durometer (hardness) as
the Black parts and differ only in their actual appearance (color) and the fact that
they're NOT graphite impregnated like the Black parts.




Why do people buy the red parts when they're not Graphite Impregnated like the Black parts?

In the end this is really because some people simplylike the color Red more than Black.
 
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