Timing Chain Teardown Time

It has been a while, the cold weather has been discouraging me from getting after the LS. I have replaced the valves I believe were dinged (no visible bends, but put new ones in) and have began the long process of putting back together. After talking to a different machine shop he basically talked me into doing the valve job myself, so hopefully I did a well enough job. I got a gasket/seal kit that has all of the stuff for the whole engine, so fresh seals for everything! Hopefully spring weather stays around this time!!

Head is back on, intake and exhaust are back on, next up put the new chains, guides and tensioners on!!

One thing I am going to have to deal with later is this fuel line that I cut, any advice would be appreciated, I am kind of thinking a male/male splice might work but will likely try to find a new hose. Problem was I couldn’t get it off the first time around which is why I just cut it like a fool...

926CDA2B-9817-420B-A69F-29D826358A6C.jpeg
90CEEAF8-1DD7-443D-8BAA-BE8859A60618.jpeg
D6F6BF8E-12DF-4D44-B715-A1415E345B64.jpeg
 
NYC LS8 said:
Now all you gotta do is remember where everything goes without having extra bolts when you're done :D
Click to expand...
Very tough even with lots of photos. Next car repair I do I put the bolt back into where it comes out. Buy a cup cake baking pan , the kind with 12 cups or more so I can put alike bolts into seperate cups. The magnetic pans are very very helpful . Harbor freight has'em. Tip, buy nuts new you can't find. I go to a fastner place called Fastenall and there one in your state too
 
The engine side of that hose uses standard fuel disconnect tools. I'd hope the other side, past the disc thing, does as well. You can find them for a few bucks at any auto parts store. I'd got to a junk yard and try to find a replacement, but V8 engines tend to get pulled (with all their bits) pretty quickly.
The problem with a splice is that's a high pressure hose, and the hose isn't very flexible. It'll be very tough to get a good reliable seal.

When you say you did a "valve job", do you mean you just lapped the valves? If so, and you got a good even pattern on the seats, then things should be OK.
 
I agree that remembering where things go and which bolts go where is going to be a doosey, I so far am having a fairly easy go if it as I wised up a bit about halfway through the teardown and started leaving bolts where they go or boxing/bagging them and labeling them but like I said that was only about halfway through once I realized I was never going to be able to tell the bolts apart.

I appreciate the tip on the fuel line removal tool I will look into one once time comes to repair that bad boy.

Yes my "valve job" was a bit lacking I'm sure, as all I did was pull the old valves replace with new ones using lapping compound and the hand lapping tool to get a good seat on them and then new valve seals.

Here's to breathing life into my LS again, I've always really like my car and want to have her back on the road.
 
TrowaBarton said:
I agree that remembering where things go and which bolts go where is going to be a doosey, I so far am having a fairly easy go if it as I wised up a bit about halfway through the teardown and started leaving bolts where they go or boxing/bagging them and labeling them but like I said that was only about halfway through once I realized I was never going to be able to tell the bolts apart.

I appreciate the tip on the fuel line removal tool I will look into one once time comes to repair that bad boy.

Yes my "valve job" was a bit lacking I'm sure, as all I did was pull the old valves replace with new ones using lapping compound and the hand lapping tool to get a good seat on them and then new valve seals.

Here's to breathing life into my LS again, I've always really like my car and want to have her back on the road.
Click to expand...
I am impresses you took a chance to hand lap new valve. Are you a lady enthusast?? I always take the heads for a whole 9 yards valved job , magna flux, valve guides replaced as needed,( Blanchard grind the head surfaces for a flat head), lap in all valves and or replace burned exhaust. A valve job like this will restore lost horsepower.Give better take off, improve idle. Only downside was worn rings , and they have improved since 1980, will at times not handle the restored compression. Since 1980 newer blocks do wear good. Not a problem anymore
 
Hey good to see your car making progress! You get a couple notches in your belt for getting this accomplished. I was wondering how that was going.
 
this true gen 2 head works on gen 1 with gen 1 sprockets chains on cams ?


sport has silent chain at least on my 2002
 
I did the primary chains in 2010 by just following the service manual. Nothing particularly special or challenging other than the usual - cramped, stuck bolts, etc etc.
I'd be surprised if heads are truly interchangable. Similar, sure. But to the point of swapping? I really doubt it. You'd need both on a bench to start comparing.
 
I am looking at taking a chance , buying a 130k mile Ls , driver chain has come off due to the upper tensioner failure . Owner has cam covers off , and I can see the primary chain off the sprocket.
I am going to go look it over more closely soon , but the price is right, for me anyway , and the car is in fantastic condition in and out .
I am trying to find parts for this job , and of course some are discontinued through ford , driver side tensioner .
Where can a per
 
The first thing you should do is pull the drivers side head off and inspect the pistons.

It is well known that when a tensioner or secondary chain fails... that the pistons and valves make contact with each other... causing further damage.

If you pull the head and see unusual semi circular indentations in the pistons... walk away.

Also... a machine shop can inspect the valves in the head... to see if they are bent. The first thing they typically do is pull a vacuum on each valve to see if they are sealing.

If the valves are leaking during the vacuum test... then they will do further inspection to see if the valves are bent.

If they are... walk away.
 
I am aware of the interference engine , and possible damage . I have another good head , just need to find a source for the parts I mentioned . Thank you for your insite, and concern .
 
So no one knows where to get parts for these cars , or are you boarding them for yourselves ?
Thank you
 
Besides the head, the impact can actually break the piston. One of my classic cars had a valve stick, piston hit it, and the oil ring land over the wrist pin broke off. I didn't even think about it, fixed the head, went on my way. For a brief time. Ended up having to sleeve the cylinder.
Moral of the story - plan on pulling the engine and doing a full inspection.

Engine parts are extremely rare. Sometimes you can use Jag stuff, but the interchange guidance is hit and miss. Best chance is getting something from the junkyard.

No one is hoarding parts. You couldn't buy engine internals when the car was new either.
 
It looks like the only part you mentioned is the timing chain tensioner. As of a few years ago several shops still sold the later revision timing chain. Looks like Christopher's Foreign Parts still does their kits and tool rentals. Took a 4 word google search.
 
oddball said:
It looks like the only part you mentioned is the timing chain tensioner. As of a few years ago several shops still sold the later revision timing chain. Looks like Christopher's Foreign Parts still does their kits and tool rentals. Took a 4 word google search.
Click to expand...
I need the driver side upper tensioner , and secondary chain .
I did see the vendor you mentioned and will check further .
Ford still sells everything for the right side .
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 226 (members: 0, guests: 226)
Back
Top