Turbocharged Lincoln LS Build Thread...Pics and Vids Inside...
- Thread starter ILLS
- Start date
so is all the exhaust coming out of the passenger side pipe or did you split it kinda like 2 to one, in turbo, out turbo into 2 again? sound confusing but wait I don't even know y I asked that ITS A TURBOCHARGED LS!!!
who cares its awsome...
who cares its awsome...
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
It was a joke. That's what the smiley's are for.
Trust me, there are other uses for smiley's besides jokes. This guy probably meant it in a joke so that is fine.
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
so is all the exhaust coming out of the passenger side pipe or did you split it kinda like 2 to one, in turbo, out turbo into 2 again? sound confusing but wait I don't even know y I asked that ITS A TURBOCHARGED LS!!!
Just as you said. I split the exhaust after the turbo so that both exhaust pipes coming out the back are operational. Looks better and much better flow out of the turbo which means less spool time. Thanks for the compliments.
NYC LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
I've been around forums like this for a long time, I know very well the uses for them. Nothing wrong with a little ball breaking in jest.:shifty:
NYC LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
Now hurry up and get that thing down the 1320
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Now hurry up and get that thing down the 1320
That's not going to happen anytime soon. Winter is setting in and with all the really cold days I am sure the track is closed. The car doesn't hook for crap anyways, even while running just 2.5 psi so the LSD and DR's are necessary.
NYC LS8
Dedicated LVC Member
I know, I know. Put a turbo on Mother Nature and speed it up
daves2000ls
Dedicated LVC Member
Just joking man, no disrespect.
Sn8kbordin
Well-Known LVC Member
What's a WG spring and WHY is it smaller?
chicken
SHEOOOOOOOOT
waste gate, and its to change the psi that the gate opens at
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Like chicken said, it regulates the amount of boost. A "smaller" WG spring isn't physically smaller (in this case) but it does compress easier, which allows less boost to be made before the WG opens and starts regulating max pressure by allowing exhaust gasses to bypass the turbo thus slowing it down and producing less boost. The WG valve cycles like this all the time at whatever given pressure that the spring is rated for which keeps boost at a constant once the turbo is spooled.
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
Bottom-end strength
Thanks for clearing that up. Here in Detroit, I have my choice of crank cores for $75 each. I had some degree of concern regarding a cast crank, but a long-time friend has been running an FE engine with a 6-71 for more than 10 years on the street and has made several hundred WOT drag passes with a 390 cast crank. Since he told me that, and I discovered the girdle-type main bearing arrangement of the V-8, I decided not to worry about it. The only alternative is a billet anyway, unless the 5.0 litre English engine uses a forging.
You're more cautious than I am, but I'm extremely glad to be following you!
KenS from Ben's Place
Thanks for clearing that up. Here in Detroit, I have my choice of crank cores for $75 each. I had some degree of concern regarding a cast crank, but a long-time friend has been running an FE engine with a 6-71 for more than 10 years on the street and has made several hundred WOT drag passes with a 390 cast crank. Since he told me that, and I discovered the girdle-type main bearing arrangement of the V-8, I decided not to worry about it. The only alternative is a billet anyway, unless the 5.0 litre English engine uses a forging.
You're more cautious than I am, but I'm extremely glad to be following you!
KenS from Ben's Place
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
I just took a look at my email archive. Oliver racing quoted me at $2,744 for a custom billet crank for the LS and $250 per billet connecting rod. That was back in Jan 2005.
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Thanks.
Not with a remote turbo setup. Front mounted turbo's usually connect to the exhaust manifold, or just barely off of it. Just different approaches to the same result.
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
As I said above, I'm exploring the options for strengthening the bottom end of the V-8. I expect to use aluminum rods designed for a small-block 'chibbie'. They're available with a 2 inch diameter big end---turn the LS crank slightly undersize---and in an infinite variety of lengths. Custom pistons are also readily available, so the placement and diameter of the gudgeon pin is no problem.
KenS from Ben's Place
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Do you intend to stay stock bore on your engine or plan to hog it out a little?
cammerfe
Dedicated LVC Member
cylinder overbore
I believe there is so little wear in the bores that honing may be all that's necessary. If that's true, I'll have pistons made to fit that finished size. Taking unnecessary cylinder wall may make the engine slightly larger, but it's my belief that the right way to build a supercharged engine or a 'sprayed' engine is to make the mechanical bits of the engine as strong as humanly possible and with mild cam timing etc. That way, the engine is amenable to daily driving without fussiness, and with enough boost and/or spray get all the power you want. I'll readily give up a few cubic inches for stronger cylinder walls. By the way, have you noticed that the water jackets extend only about an-inch-and-a-fraction from the deck? Everything below that is solid. 'Hardblok' from the factory!
KenS from Ben's Place
I believe there is so little wear in the bores that honing may be all that's necessary. If that's true, I'll have pistons made to fit that finished size. Taking unnecessary cylinder wall may make the engine slightly larger, but it's my belief that the right way to build a supercharged engine or a 'sprayed' engine is to make the mechanical bits of the engine as strong as humanly possible and with mild cam timing etc. That way, the engine is amenable to daily driving without fussiness, and with enough boost and/or spray get all the power you want. I'll readily give up a few cubic inches for stronger cylinder walls. By the way, have you noticed that the water jackets extend only about an-inch-and-a-fraction from the deck? Everything below that is solid. 'Hardblok' from the factory!
KenS from Ben's Place
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
I stayed stock bore stock stroke on my built 4.6 V8 for my other vehicle also. Same concept, if I want more power I will throw more boost at it.
Jayce 1971
Active LVC Member
Is the T-04 water and oil cooled? Saw the nice braided hose in the pics. With the amount of plumbing you have (exhaust to the back, boost to the front) I'm surprised you don't have considerable lag. Guessing the that the cooling benefits and denser air charge of not having the turbo mounted directly to the manifold must compensate..... maybe some people enjoy the warm glow of an underhood turbo after a spirited drive...lol. May your engine run trouble free and never knock...Nice fab work.
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Just oil cooled, as most aftermarket turbo's are. Usually only OEM turbo systems are water cooled.
The problem with people thinking remote turbo's are laggy is because you size a turbo for a remote system differently than a front mounted system. Remote mounting is new enough that people do not get that concept and run the wrong turbo and get lag. When sized properly a remote will spool very quickly. I can be cruising and tap the throttle and already hear the turbo spooling. The needle on the boost gauge reflects that responsiveness also. Having a longer exhaust pipe for the gasses to travel in before hitting the turbine, and having a longer intake tube would lead most people to believe that there would be allot of lag. But when you factor in the sheer amount of airmass that the engine is moving, that additional "space" in the tubing that needs to "fill up with air" becomes very small. Remote turbo's are fairly new to the performance scene. Until more people have real world, firsthand experience with them people will continue to have inaccurate information on them. Just the way things work in this industry. The same can be said with the newer systems coming online that have twin turbo's feeding into a roots supercharger. 99% of people do not understand how that works and will automatically call it crap. However, they usually change their tune when you toss them a dyno sheet showing 1,000+ horsepower made from a combo like that.
Jayce 1971
Active LVC Member
I'm glad to see someone taking the time to develop this. Having owned 3 factory turbo vehicles,(2 saab 900's, 1 dodge daytona), I know how much of a joy it can be to drive. You are correct that I have absolutely no knowledge of remote turbo setups, and it's nice to learn some new things through your thread. The applications of this turbo setup seems pretty much unlimited, assuming the bottom end of the block can handle the added power. Hope she runs well for you. Keep us posted on your progress...(after the snow passes).
ILLS
Dedicated LVC Member
Sn8kbordin
Well-Known LVC Member
No kidding. We had about 5"-6" last night locally. Aaaaah winter.
So driving thru and on the snow is not a problem for your Turbo LS setup?
(My LS is lowered so sometimes I gotta punch, WILL get stuck when do it slowly, thru 1' or higher snowbank to get out of my alley after they plow the main street)