What did you do to your LS today?
- Thread starter RigsLS
- Start date
Will do Sir! By the way, I am playing with the tire pressures. I have to run them high because I am at the min wheel width for the tire size. Running 40 psi cold now however, Max for the tire is 51 psi cold. I usually try to run equal pressure on all 4 but depending on how it feels, near the limit, I might want to change that. I might want to lower the pressure in the rear relative to the front. Even though I have the original dampers, I don't get any hope in the rear and I don't want to introduce any. Like I said before, these tires are lighter than the old ones so I have to deal with that issue also. By the way, I had to re-torque my wheel nuts. They said they use these torque sticks that make sure the torque stops at 80 ft-lbs. I believed them. Just on a hunch I checked just a bit ago. Haha! They were torqued to over 150. Next time, I'll just tell them to tighten them just enough to roll it and then torque them myself.
2002_lincolnLS
Custom User Title
Torque sticks are real, I have used them and good ones are both accurate and expensive. I used Snap on ones. Cheap ones I can not say for sure. However It's possible they have cheap ones, they are damaged from some guy sitting there running them for 20 minutes on each lug, or he grabbed the wrong one, and last they didn't actually use them.
Also BFGoodrich G force tires are incredible, I can't understand why you wouldn't let a proven quality tire on your car due to it being french, but you seemed to be fine buying a fly by night Chinese company tire that many recommend not buying.
It's your money and I could care less what you do or what happens to your car, but just strange reasoning is all. I know my BF Goodrich tires where a lot more than a few extra bucks over triangles so if you could have had them for the same or a little more that would have been a better route.
As to the LS suspension, its better than a lot, but there are so many more better set ups, I would argue that a P1 has one of the best if not the best suspension on the road. I know that it's hard to compare but you open that door when you claim the ls to be the best on the road not in it's class....
Anyways good luck with triangles for tire, I am not sure if the Chinese execs had a bad translator but maybe they should be called rounds.
They must have had bad ones. To finish the argument you tried to start, I wasn't comparing the LS to a P1. I was actually not comparing it at all. I was referring to my ability to use what I have to get the better of cars that are a lot more expensive. I think I referred to Porsche and BMW. Also, I drive people around town that own some of the exotic cars and they all are surprised at the handling, braking, acceleration, and general road manners of the LS. Admittedly, it could be my driving technique. Most times I have 3 or 4 passengers in the car and I still get the complements.
Before you totally trash Triangle Tires, wait until I critique them in the rain. I have them set at 48psi front 45psi rear and I just came off of the freeway at about 110mph put in some heavy braking to make the stoplight and got the AdvanceTrac light to come on under acceleration. They stuck like glue with very little if any sidewall flex. Triangle has been around for a while and are into a lot of research dealing with rubber compounds. If you remember what people were saying about Japanese products back in the day and look at them now.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triangle_Group
Oh, yes I do love my LS. I think it has one of the best suspensions of a sedan out on the road. Mine is about to hit 81K miles, has all original suspension components including shocks, and she still rides as tight as a drum. I'm sure that has a lot to do with me dodging pot holes and taking it easy on the speed bumps. The funny thing is, I get riders all the time saying how comfortable it is in the back seat. I've never ridden back there. I guess ill have to try it.
If the A/T came on there was slippage. The initial howling is an "issue" with the tread design; it will only get worse as the tyres wear. IMHO, your pressure is waaaaaaay too high. Factory recommends 30psi; I run 32.5 up front and 31.5 in the rears. Don't know what's wrong with the French tires, but I am thoroughly enjoying my Pilot Sport A/S 3's. I've also had good service from my Bridgestone's........
NEVER skimp on tires, brakes, shoes, pillows and mattresses. Those have the potential to affect one's health.
jjcool00
Dedicated LVC Member
Don't forget condoms....
There was slippage because I was going around a turn at high speed and putting a lot of power down on a not perfectly smooth surface that was slightly off camber. Just for verification, maybe we can get Kumba corroborate as I'm sure he is familiar with the exit. The exit was off of I 275 North Gandy exit going to the west in the outside lane. I have never hit that turn that fast. I approached at over 110mph. There is a hump mid corner because you have to cross over the crown of the road. Even though the AdvanceTrac light came on, I didn't notice any stability issues. I didn't have to correct at all. The high tire pressures are necessary because 1 like snappy turn in and 2 I have the minimum wheel width for the tire and I don't want any sidewall roll. When you have a different tire specification than factory, that sticker info in the door jamb goes out the window anyway unless you want your LS to ride like a Towncar. I just changed the pressure again anyway to 47f 43r. I will try that and see how it works. When I get out of the car and push on the top of the door, the only movement I get is from the sidewalk of the tires so, that's how I balance the turn in characteristics and cornering feel.
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
triangle has not been around for a while. i have never heard of them. and since 1976? 1976 lol. the Goodrich Corporation is from the 1880s in Akron Ohio. Goodyear from 1898, also in Akron.
they have "been around a while".
47 psi is obscene. 51 psi is the absolute max for that tire, and only when seating the bead.
i suspect soon you will be seeing how well that tight suspension reacts to a blowout at speed.
they have "been around a while".
47 psi is obscene. 51 psi is the absolute max for that tire, and only when seating the bead.
i suspect soon you will be seeing how well that tight suspension reacts to a blowout at speed.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
110? I hope you didn't take the exit that fast on the first run through it. I like to walk up to the higher speeds on tires I've not had before, taking said exit at the correct speed, then 20-30MPH faster, then again. First time out, you might have discovered that the tire's breaking speed was 90MPH, and there you are going 110MPH sideways off the side of the exit. There was a time that I'd just go balls to the wall right off the bat on new tires, until this one time when I learned that not all tires stick the same. 
I'll also add that having too narrow a rim will induce sidewall flex into a tire that otherwise wouldn't have it, because it's forcing the sidewalls to ride at an angle. This will also bend the tire in and out as you drive, so sidewall flex will get worse over time faster than if the correct width tire/rim combo is used. Even though a range is allowed I like to keep them as close to the center of the allowed range as possible. Towards the end of the tire's life span, you may actually be able to turn the wheel a quarter turn and back at speed without affecting the direction the car is traveling. Once again, this is something I discovered the hard way. The sidewall flexing was so bad on this Tahoe I used to have that I could no longer dodge road debris. I'd turn the wheel to miss the dead skunk, run through the dead skunk anyway, turn the wheel back and head for the car wash. The same vehicle would set up an oscillation over 90MPH where the front right would go up, then the front left, then the rear left, then the rear right, round and round. The faster I'd go, the harder the oscillation would become. Never could figure this out until I had a dyno done on it. Dang tire treads were wobbling back and forth at speed. But, when I jacked up the back and rotated the tire by hand with a piece of chalk held against the tire, the chalk line stayed true to the tread indicating that the tire tread was wobbling because of the sidewall and not a bent axle shaft or a warped wheel. Changed the tires immediately after to a narrower tire of the same height, and the problem disappeared.
That noise isn't going to get any better either.
So far as it being a Chinese tire, I won't ding you on it because everyone must make their own choices. Personally though, I wouldn't buy from a people who have no problem putting plastic in domestically consumed baby formula. If they'll kill their own kids for a buck, will they really care about the quality of an exported tire?
I'll also add that having too narrow a rim will induce sidewall flex into a tire that otherwise wouldn't have it, because it's forcing the sidewalls to ride at an angle. This will also bend the tire in and out as you drive, so sidewall flex will get worse over time faster than if the correct width tire/rim combo is used. Even though a range is allowed I like to keep them as close to the center of the allowed range as possible. Towards the end of the tire's life span, you may actually be able to turn the wheel a quarter turn and back at speed without affecting the direction the car is traveling. Once again, this is something I discovered the hard way. The sidewall flexing was so bad on this Tahoe I used to have that I could no longer dodge road debris. I'd turn the wheel to miss the dead skunk, run through the dead skunk anyway, turn the wheel back and head for the car wash. The same vehicle would set up an oscillation over 90MPH where the front right would go up, then the front left, then the rear left, then the rear right, round and round. The faster I'd go, the harder the oscillation would become. Never could figure this out until I had a dyno done on it. Dang tire treads were wobbling back and forth at speed. But, when I jacked up the back and rotated the tire by hand with a piece of chalk held against the tire, the chalk line stayed true to the tread indicating that the tire tread was wobbling because of the sidewall and not a bent axle shaft or a warped wheel. Changed the tires immediately after to a narrower tire of the same height, and the problem disappeared.
That noise isn't going to get any better either.
So far as it being a Chinese tire, I won't ding you on it because everyone must make their own choices. Personally though, I wouldn't buy from a people who have no problem putting plastic in domestically consumed baby formula. If they'll kill their own kids for a buck, will they really care about the quality of an exported tire?
I have taken that exit many times before at that speed but, just never followed through the light at the end. I usually get caught by the light. Last night I was bedding in the brakes and got a real sense of the kind of traction they will provide. The max cold inflation pressure is 51psi. The rim width is within the specification of the tire. The sidewalls do not angle in at all. Remember, the stock rubber is 235/50/17 and these are 245/45/17 so, there's actually less sidewall and slightly lower profile. There is only 5mm more width on each side of the wheel. They are also reinforced due to the rim protector. The noise is actually starting to subside and they are quieter than the ones I took off. The suggested rim size is 8" and at the pressure I'm running now, handling is very crisp. No squirm at all and no squeal making sharp turns in the parking lot. The contact patch is very even across the tread. Traction is only A and not AA like the BFG G-Force but, I don't think I need any higher rating than that with this car. The Michelins had a traction A rating and they weren't half as sticky as these. I just have to wait for the rain to come to make final judgment. I've run through some sprinkler runoff and there is no comparison in grip. I will report back if there are any anomalies.110? I hope you didn't take the exit that fast on the first run through it. I like to walk up to the higher speeds on tires I've not had before, taking said exit at the correct speed, then 20-30MPH faster, then again. First time out, you might have discovered that the tire's breaking speed was 90MPH, and there you are going 110MPH sideways off the side of the exit. There was a time that I'd just go balls to the wall right off the bat on new tires, until this one time when I learned that not all tires stick the same.
I'll also add that having too narrow a rim will induce sidewall flex into a tire that otherwise wouldn't have it, because it's forcing the sidewalls to ride at an angle. This will also bend the tire in and out as you drive, so sidewall flex will get worse over time faster than if the correct width tire/rim combo is used. Even though a range is allowed I like to keep them as close to the center of the allowed range as possible. Towards the end of the tire's life span, you may actually be able to turn the wheel a quarter turn and back at speed without affecting the direction the car is traveling. Once again, this is something I discovered the hard way. The sidewall flexing was so bad on this Tahoe I used to have that I could no longer dodge road debris. I'd turn the wheel to miss the dead skunk, run through the dead skunk anyway, turn the wheel back and head for the car wash. The same vehicle would set up an oscillation over 90MPH where the front right would go up, then the front left, then the rear left, then the rear right, round and round. The faster I'd go, the harder the oscillation would become. Never could figure this out until I had a dyno done on it. Dang tire treads were wobbling back and forth at speed. But, when I jacked up the back and rotated the tire by hand with a piece of chalk held against the tire, the chalk line stayed true to the tread indicating that the tire tread was wobbling because of the sidewall and not a bent axle shaft or a warped wheel. Changed the tires immediately after to a narrower tire of the same height, and the problem disappeared.
That noise isn't going to get any better either.
So far as it being a Chinese tire, I won't ding you on it because everyone must make their own choices. Personally though, I wouldn't buy from a people who have no problem putting plastic in domestically consumed baby formula. If they'll kill their own kids for a buck, will they really care about the quality of an exported tire?
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Cool.
On the exit at speed, I meant on the new tires. When on unfamiliar tires I still do the stepping on familiar exits. It's the tires that are questionable, not your familiarity with the exit or skills with the car. I even retest tire brands I've used before, because the manufacturer may change compounds but not the name of the tire which may make the tire handle speed differently and not always for the better. Some tires will be changed for the better, others will try to cheap out the product and trade on their reputation.
On the exit at speed, I meant on the new tires. When on unfamiliar tires I still do the stepping on familiar exits. It's the tires that are questionable, not your familiarity with the exit or skills with the car. I even retest tire brands I've used before, because the manufacturer may change compounds but not the name of the tire which may make the tire handle speed differently and not always for the better. Some tires will be changed for the better, others will try to cheap out the product and trade on their reputation.
It's one of those long exits with a very slight bend. 110mph isn't even approaching the limit of the car. We're talking lift off the throttle and by the time you get to the end the speed is manageable. I'm not crazy.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Heh heh heh... think you're still missing it. The car is familiar, THE TIRES ARE NOT. You don't want to be in a situation where you're taking a corner at 110MPH that you've taken at 110MPH every day for the last 5 years, just to find out that the NEW TIRES can only take it at 80MPH.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Meanwhile back at the ranch, just ordered a new solenoid pack for my 2003 LS. Hoping to get those crappy shifts fixed before something bigger breaks. When I added the Lucas, I let some of the old fluid out to make room and the old fluid looked pretty fresh and clean. Will get a flush and do a filter change too. 313.58 delivered, from FDMotorParts.com.
RigsLS
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2002_lincolnLS
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yes never skimp on sammiches
also robot, you don't need to convince me that your tires are good, I don't care, you seem to be selling them really hard. Usually really good things don't need a hard drive marketing scheme, but like I said, your money, your car, your accident.
I never said the LS was bad as far as handling, just not near the best on the road...
Who said anything about taking a corner at 110mph?Heh heh heh... think you're still missing it. The car is familiar, THE TIRES ARE NOT. You don't want to be in a situation where you're taking a corner at 110MPH that you've taken at 110MPH every day for the last 5 years, just to find out that the NEW TIRES can only take it at 80MPH.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
That was the speed on approach! I'm not nuts! That particular exit is very long. There is a light at the end if you intend to turn left. I can't see the status of the light as I approach it so, the only indication I have is what the traffic in front of me is doing. Taking the turn, I was going much slower. Once I determined I could make the light safely, I accelerated again from about 70mph.
That was the speed on approach! I'm not nuts! That particular exit is very long. There is a light at the end if you intend to turn left. I can't see the status of the light as I approach it so, the only indication I have is what the traffic in front of me is doing. Taking the turn, I was going much slower. Once I determined I could make the light safely, I accelerated again from about 70mph.
Today I changed tire pressure to 40 psi all the way around. Someone before said they were running 30-32psi and I think that's what it says on the door jamb for the factory tires. If I remember correctly, that's how Ford got into trouble with the Firestone rollover debacle. Running 28 psi to soften the ride. I really don't like soft riding cars so I put higher pressures in the tires. When I push on the side of my car the suspension doesn't move and only the tire sidewall flexes. To me that seems incredible but if no one believes me, I will put a video on YouTube to show it. Also, there is barely any movement when I push down on the trunk seal. This is with a car with all original parts and over 80000 miles.
Even still, I intend on getting new suspension components after the end of the year before it gets hot again.
Even still, I intend on getting new suspension components after the end of the year before it gets hot again.