What did you do to your LS today?

[2002_lincolnLS]

I am not sure but I think you may have made glue by this point...

I am also going to guess that almost no one cares at this point.

 

[LS4me]

....... If I remember correctly, that's how Ford got into trouble with the Firestone rollover debacle. Running 28 psi to soften the ride. ........

And how the Corvair got a bad rep. Owners didn't believe the low pressure on the placard (the pressure that should be used) so they added pressure. That caused the car to be extremely unstable leading to roll-overs.

Tire size really doesn't matter for the sake of pressure. Tyre pressure is just a volume-metric measurement. It's like what weighs more, a pound of lead or a pound of feathers?

 

[RigsLS]

Anyways ... about my new car cover! :shifty:

What did you guys do to your LS'es today?

 

[Robot]

And how the Corvair got a bad rep. Owners didn't believe the low pressure on the placard (the pressure that should be used) so they added pressure. That caused the car to be extremely unstable leading to roll-overs.

Tire size really doesn't matter for the sake of pressure. Tyre pressure is just a volume-metric measurement. It's like what weighs more, a pound of lead or a pound of feathers?

Two different situations. One on a high center of gravity vehicle and one was a very light vehicle with an engine toward the rear. My father had a supercharged corvair that could do wheelies. There was no problem with control. The problem with the Explorer and low tire pressures was the tire would keep hanging on beyond the rollover point. Ask the drivers in London that operate the double decker buses. The tires have to let go at some point. Those rollovers might have happened with any tire that size and at that low pressure. Do you remember what the ultimate solution was?

 

[RigsLS]

^ Yo, Robert, what did you think of my car cover? (pic pending of course) LOL.

 

[Robot]

^ Yo, Robert, what did you think of my car cover? (pic pending of course) LOL.

I have a car cover for my car. It needed to be washed so I took it to the coin laundry to use the big triple machine. Wouldn't ya know it, someone used a bunch of that cheap powdered soap before me and it didn't rinse out all the way and now I have a cover full of powder that I can't use until I wash it again. Come to think of it, it might have been cocaine. Anyway, I'll wait to see the pics of yours.

 

[Zr0]

And how the Corvair got a bad rep. Owners didn't believe the low pressure on the placard (the pressure that should be used) so they added pressure. That caused the car to be extremely unstable leading to roll-overs.

Tire size really doesn't matter for the sake of pressure. Tyre pressure is just a volume-metric measurement. It's like what weighs more, a pound of lead or a pound of feathers?

My first car was a Corvair. Whether you over inflated or under inflated the tires didn't do *too* much. Hitting a corner too aggressively and lifting off the throttle however...

 

[hite337]

I like car covers......

 

[Robot]

My first car was a Corvair. Whether you over inflated or under inflated the tires didn't do *too* much. Hitting a corner too aggressively and lifting off the throttle however...

They looked like they might have handled like a 1960s F1 car with too much weight. I'll have to ask pops and see if he remembers.

 

[Zr0]

They looked like they might have handled like a 1960s F1 car with too much weight. I'll have to ask pops and see if he remembers.

Yeah I doubt they handled anywhere near that good...wouldn't know never drove an F1, old or otherwise <shrugs>

I like car covers......

So do I...I also like heatshields :shifty:

 

[hite337]

So do I...I also like heatshields :shifty:

They are coming back soon. When things calm down after the holidays Hite Performance will be back in business.

 

[Zr0]

They are coming back soon. When things calm down after the holidays Hite Performance will be back in business.

Awesome, I'm really glad to hear that! Do we have to take a number or will it be a free for all

 

[hite337]

It'll be a free-for-all but not free for all....lol.

 

[Robot]

Sorry guys, tires again[emoji45]

Lowered pressure to 40psi cold and then 36psi cold. Hated it. The problem I'm having is at that low pressure, the turn in is great but, under braking it wants to lift up the inside rear because the chassis is so stiff. When the sidewall deflects, there's enough movement in roll when I do a snap turn it unloads the inside rear under heavy braking. My old tires I could lift the front inside under acceleration. These tires grip very well. They feel like pencil erasers. They are at 36psi cold right now and I am gonna inflate them up to the equivalent of 50psi when I get to the air pump. Also they are louder at lower pressure and require more correction. When I get to the pump and my gauge reads something like 39-40 , I'll put them up to 49-50 in front and maybe 46 in the rear. Thunderstorms are expected on Monday so, it won't be long before a good wet weather test. BTW, these have a thick solid center rib and I'm thinking the claimed quiet ride comes from that. I also think they must have changed the compound on these because compared to the Goodyear GT and BFG G-Force Comp 2s I looked at, there is no way these aren't stickier than those.

 

[2002_lincolnLS]

if they are somehow better than a g force in the grip department, expect them to be toast in a bout 3 months

 

[Robot]

if they are somehow better than a g force in the grip department, expect them to be toast in a bout 3 months

I really don't push my tires that hard because with my suspension setup, I don't have to. I hope you're wrong about the life of these tires. Someone did say they had no grip. It turns out, they may be too grippy. I might have to change my driving style a bit. I do not like sliding tires but, I've been accustomed to getting some slippage on the rougher surfaces and I've yet to get that so far on these. If you say they will last me 3 months, that's like 2 years to me. The take offs were installed 13,000 miles before I got the car and lasted to over 80,000 miles.

 

[izzy]

Couple things today......

1. New coils and plugs.
2. Hooked up the amp and 2 12s
3. Added aux cable for playing music since Bluetooth sounds like caca

1LoudLS.........The fuse is 12 inches on the positive cable from the battery under the spare cover. :Beer

Here are pics for proof of today's activities:

 

[izzy]

Here are the old plugs and some coils. There is only seven plugs because I replaced the one that was giving misfire codes a few weeks ago.

A mix of originals and replacements:


Apparently I had one original from the factory still:

 

[Robot]

Today, I went back to the tire shop and had my fronts rebalanced. I noticed some shaking of the wheel at high speed so I was looking around and found a sticky weight was missing. Turns out they hadn't been balanced correctly. The tire guy fixed the problem by spinning it faster and adding hammer weights to the inside of the wheel. Huge difference! I am taking it back Monday and having the same done to the rears.

Also joined the car wash club at Bay Breeze Car Wash.

Bled right rear brake caliper.

 

[1LoudLS]

1LoudLS.........The fuse is 12 inches on the positive cable from the battery under the spare cover. :Beer

:wrench:invasion::dancefool:dj::dancefool:invasion::wrench

thats great, thank you, that makes it much safer...



one thing I would at least try out would be to turn the sub box around and have it face the rear of the car and see how it sounds. a lot of the time when the subs face forward, you can get conflicting sound waves that will cancel a lot of themselves out. then again, sometimes they don't...

having the subs face the back usually keeps all the sound waves aligned and will produce a much louder and deeper sound. usually if the subs face the front, you want them to be as far toward the back of the car with as little space behind them as possible.

 

[FDR]

Got a lovely chip in the windshield from a golf ball sized rock kicked up by one of the ugliest, dirtiest trucks I've ever seen. I'm pretty sure it was carrying the rocks it was raining like hellfire behind it.

I was on my way to work and when I got there I asked who they use for glass repair. Apparently, that company won't repair cracks in the driver's line of sight. It's directly in front of my forehead, unfortunately. I'll try Safelite and my insurance on Monday and see how it compares to a DIY kit. Any tips?

 

[Robot]

:wrench:invasion::dancefool:dj::dancefool:invasion::wrench

thats great, thank you, that makes it much safer...



one thing I would at least try out would be to turn the sub box around and have it face the rear of the car and see how it sounds. a lot of the time when the subs face forward, you can get conflicting sound waves that will cancel a lot of themselves out. then again, sometimes they don't...

having the subs face the back usually keeps all the sound waves aligned and will produce a much louder and deeper sound. usually if the subs face the front, you want them to be as far toward the back of the car with as little space behind them as possible.

Many dedicated sub amps have a phase adjustment that will do this for you. It's usually one of those little knobs you have to adjust with a screwdriver. You might also find it on multichannel amps that can be bridged to mono. Oh, and many amps just have a switch that goes from 0 deg or 180 deg. You'll most likely find that in car audio as most installations have forward or rear firing drivers relative to the listening area. There are some exceptions of course.

 

[hite337]

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Wires....at least zip tie them together or something. Not trashing your install, I'm sure it sounds great, but having wires everywhere looks like crap. It looks like you spent 20 minutes on the install. Just my 2 cents. Spend a few minutes and clean it up a bit.

 

[1LoudLS]

Many dedicated sub amps have a phase adjustment that will do this for you. It's usually one of those little knobs you have to adjust with a screwdriver. You might also find it on multichannel amps that can be bridged to mono. Oh, and many amps just have a switch that goes from 0 deg or 180 deg. You'll most likely find that in car audio as most installations have forward or rear firing drivers relative to the listening area. There are some exceptions of course.

thats not the problem and thats not what that setting is for...

the phase that is adjustable with that kind of setting is in relation to the other speakers, ie: if the subs are mounted backwards in the box to show off their super sweet magnets, you don't want the sound waves to be opposite of all of your other speakers and then canceling their sound out.

I'm talking about some of the sound waves that leave the speaker cone and go directly toward your head, then there are other sound waves that bounce off of other sh!t like the braces in the trunk, then bounce back and reflect off of the rear of the trunk that are now heading in the same direction as the original sound waves, depending on the distance the secondary set of waves have to travel, they could be out of phase of the primary sound waves and cancel them out...

with that in mind, if you throw the original sound wave off by (doesn't really matter but) lets say 180*, the secondary set of sound waves will still be delayed by the same amount of time so the end result will be the same no matter what you set the phase to. settings can't fix this, only placement and distances can. even a great DSP with time alignment can only correct speakers from interfering with each other, not with speakers interfering with themselves.




if that doesn't make sense, think of a muffler without any fiber stuffing or anything like that inside of it, it uses different chambers and different angles of metal inside to reflect sound in different ways so that the waves cancel (at least some of) themselves out without interfering too much with the flow of gases.

 

[Robot]

thats not the problem and thats not what that setting is for...

the phase that is adjustable with that kind of setting is in relation to the other speakers, ie: if the subs are mounted backwards in the box to show off their super sweet magnets, you don't want the sound waves to be opposite of all of your other speakers and then canceling their sound out.

I'm talking about some of the sound waves that leave the speaker cone and go directly toward your head, then there are other sound waves that bounce off of other sh!t like the braces in the trunk, then bounce back and reflect off of the rear of the trunk that are now heading in the same direction as the original sound waves, depending on the distance the secondary set of waves have to travel, they could be out of phase of the primary sound waves and cancel them out...

with that in mind, if you throw the original sound wave off by (doesn't really matter but) lets say 180*, the secondary set of sound waves will still be delayed by the same amount of time so the end result will be the same no matter what you set the phase to. settings can't fix this, only placement and distances can. even a great DSP with time alignment can only correct speakers from interfering with each other, not with speakers interfering with themselves.




if that doesn't make sense, think of a muffler without any fiber stuffing or anything like that inside of it, it uses different chambers and different angles of metal inside to reflect sound in different ways so that the waves cancel (at least some of) themselves out without interfering too much with the flow of gases.

If that's the case, you are referring to the sound waves bouncing right back toward the source. Sorry I misunderstood that. What you need to do is adjust the angle of the drivers in such a way that whatever the waves reflect off of doesn't send it back directly to the source. That's the same concept as the stealth fighter with all the weird angles only with a sub box, you'd only have to ramp it up so when the reflection returns it would bypass the original source. That's why most of the ready made boxes have an angle already.