What did you do to your LS today?

I drove my LS around car shopping. I've actually been test-driving cars on and off for the past couple of weeks. It usually takes me a long time to buy a car, and I haven't decided on what I really want.

The LS has behaved flawlessly since I started my search. Maybe it's afraid of being replaced. If you're having problems with your LS, taking it out to test drive other cars might be the solution.
 
So I got the headlights with the clear turns today. Pulled them apart. The seller had them listed as 2002 so I was just going to cut them open. But I was in luck. They are actually 2000 with grey sealant. WOOHOO! So I got the clear turns out. Now I'll just wait to install them in my housings.

Will be ordering my angel eyes soon. I know they are 125mm. But I don't think they will fit on the low beam side of the bezel. The ones I'm looking at are solid rings. I would rather not have to cut them. Suggestions?

Also, since I didn't have to cut these housings up, can anyone use them? There were also HIDs in them. The bulbs are bluefish in color. No ballasts though. Not sure what temp they are either. The wires are included as well with turn signal bulbs and high beams. You can have them for what I paid for them. $120 which includes shipping.

There are scratches on the lens covers. Not deep. I'm sure they could be buffed out. Otherwise they are super clear with no oxidation. The drivers side does have two clips/attachment pieces missing/broken off (where my pinkie and pointer finger are at). I bought them that way. It wasn't me. LOL Anyway, here are some pics.

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New window regulator....

Got the windshield company to seal the hole they didn't properly fill...

Now I just have to get the driver window trim squared away and all will be quiet again.
 
I got my LS a week ago and always pictured having a Pearl White LS with gloss black wheels. Only had it a week and it looks better than I imagined! Really wanted yellow calipers to pop out behind the black wheels but went with a more classic and subtle silver. Its not a Ferrari and I'm not 20 anymore, so silver will do fine! Love this site you guys have here!PassWheelsCloseP.jpgDriverRearQuarterP.jpgCountryCoverCarpaint.jpg

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:wrench:invasion::dancefool:dj::dancefool:invasion::wrench

thats great, thank you, that makes it much safer...



one thing I would at least try out would be to turn the sub box around and have it face the rear of the car and see how it sounds. a lot of the time when the subs face forward, you can get conflicting sound waves that will cancel a lot of themselves out. then again, sometimes they don't...

having the subs face the back usually keeps all the sound waves aligned and will produce a much louder and deeper sound. usually if the subs face the front, you want them to be as far toward the back of the car with as little space behind them as possible.

Hey, 1loud, question for you......
So I'm getting dimming with my bass. I know I need a compactor. I'm thinking 2farads. I know the rule of thumb is 1 farad per 1000watts. The amp I'm using is 1000watts but figure that 2 farad would be good. My speakers are 1400 watts so I was also thinking about getting a higher watt amp later. Thoughts?
 
Hey, 1loud, question for you......
So I'm getting dimming with my bass. I know I need a compactor. I'm thinking 2farads. I know the rule of thumb is 1 farad per 1000watts. The amp I'm using is 1000watts but figure that 2 farad would be good. My speakers are 1400 watts so I was also thinking about getting a higher watt amp later. Thoughts?

well a cap will help a tiny bit, but the main root of the problem is that your alternator does not output enough power to drive the car and drive that amp fully. having a good battery makes a big difference. but no matter what, you not going to be able to make enough power though.

getting a more powerful amp will make this problem worse, and the worse this problem is, the more likely you are to burn up the alternator.
 
well a cap will help a tiny bit, but the main root of the problem is that your alternator does not output enough power to drive the car and drive that amp fully. having a good battery makes a big difference. but no matter what, you not going to be able to make enough power though.

getting a more powerful amp will make this problem worse, and the worse this problem is, the more likely you are to burn up the alternator.

Son of a mother effer....

I hate that it dims like that. I am also not keen on the alternator going either. Back to: :Bang
 
Got new LSE spoiler off ebay. Now i just have to wait till it warms up this year to have it painted and put it on. I would hate to put it on in cold weather to have it not adhere and fly off.
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Looks so like mine when I got it, silver LS, black spoiler.

Nice wheels also. (same)
 
The wind deflectors are useful since I live in FL. Thunderstorm capital of the world. The LS likes to roll water over the A pillars onto the windows and I don't like driving with my windows up. So this way I can keep them cracked even in the rain.
I'm with you on this one Izzy. I love driving in the rain and this is one of the faults of the LS.
 
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'n rodents, keep away from my electrical and insulation.

LS traps: 4 ~ Mice: 0

No bait, just several traps along the walls and at inside of tires.
Couple sticky pads also but zero success with those, just DEATH SLAM trap success.
 
I'm with you on this one Izzy. I love driving in the rain and this is one of the faults of the LS.

I've had wind/rain guards on almost all my vehicles.

Definitely a fault on the LS. Just a lil bit deeper on the rain channels. Geesh.
 
Those are some sharp look rims on your LS.

They're Mach M7 rims, available on Carid. There's also a 5- and a 10-spoke version, with either silver if ish, black, or black with machined edges.

I've had wind/rain guards on almost all my vehicles.

Definitely a fault on the LS. Just a lil bit deeper on the rain channels. Geesh.

Gotta improve aerodynamics and eek out those MPGs!
 
They're Mach M7 rims, available on Carid. There's also a 5- and a 10-spoke version, with either silver if ish, black, or black with machined edges.



Gotta improve aerodynamics and eek out those MPGs!

I would rather a 4 cylinder engine than a waterfall coming over the a pillars into my car.
 
Hey All! I havent been around for awhile, but I'm back for More LS Punishment/Enjoyment LOL

It wasnt today, It was last saturday but i finally installed Some Motorcraft COPS to replace a few that failed, had the cops for a few months lol.
Pulling out the old cops it was funny, how the Chinese ones the PO installed said OEM all over them, yet clearly said made in china.
Had cylinder #2 cop fail shortly after installing new Motorcrafts on the 5678 side only to swap it out for one of the cheapys i pulled from the 5678 side of the engine. All good for now.

Finally started driving it again, it had been almost a year since i had driven it last.
I was dreading swapping the cops but it is so easy that i laughed when it took a total of 10mins to do the whole one side. (yes the hard-er driver side)
I need to drive the LS, since i got put on a jobsite i had to drive about an hour to, it gets so much better mileage than my F150, even at current gas prices its a godsend.

Also Installed a AGM Battery (group 65) From fleet farm. Since the car sat so long and only got fired up to be moved, that it killed the other battery.

Also Installed a Schumacher Battery Tender Pigtail to the battery, so I dont lose another battery when i plan to park the car this summer, when i ride my Motorcycle.

Also I was Having issues with the Battery Cable Bolts, had to cobble one last winter after one broke, i went to Menards and grabbed two bolts with Allen Heads and two poly lock nuts and had the cables super tight again in a few Minutes, no more worries about that.


Now to fix - The rear disc brake Pads that went fail hard after sitting so long.
- Accessory Belt lost a rib when i replaced the Alternator last winter.

Is there a cheap tool available to retract the rear caliper pistons? I saw the Ford Rotunda Tool is anywhere from $75 - $125, thats ridiculous. I don't really want to even fork out $45 for the Harbor Freight Set. Any Cheaper options? or Maybe Homemade solutions.
 
Is there a cheap tool available to retract the rear caliper pistons? I saw the Ford Rotunda Tool is anywhere from $75 - $125, thats ridiculous. I don't really want to even fork out $45 for the Harbor Freight Set. Any Cheaper options? or Maybe Homemade solutions.

well I've used a POS cube tool that cost about $12 and shattered the first time using it and gave me a wacked cut on my hand, and I've watched somebody tear the pistons boot using a set of channel locks.


http://www.amazon.com/XtremepowerUS...F8&qid=1422418553&sr=8-25&keywords=brake+tool

this looks identical to the cheaper kit that harbor freight used to sell.
 
V8GUY, I bought mine from The O'. It's made of brass and it fits a 1/2" ratchet. It was about $13 and a little bit of a pita to use but, is a lot easier if the bleeders are opened up when you are doing it. Tip: wear gloves.
 
^You might not be using it correctly.

Yes, I used that once. It worked, but it was awful. After that, I got the correct $20 tool, and every time (I have two LSes) after that it has been quick and easy to do.
 
Robot, what are them gloves? what brand? me like!
 

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