That link goes to the homepage for some reason. This is the part I purchased:
But I am also concerned that it is seeping through the plug itself. Should I also replace this plug or just try to clean it out with electrical spray cleaner?
What did you do to your LS today?
- Thread starter RigsLS
- Start date
That link goes to the homepage for some reason. This is the part I purchased:
But I am also concerned that it is seeping through the plug itself. Should I also replace this plug or just try to clean it out with electrical spray cleaner?
RigsLS
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I doubt it's leaking directly from the plug itself, most likely you'll solve the problem by means of installing this new sensor. You'll be alright. Just clean up the cable connector that plugs into it. It most likely only appears to be leaking from the bottom of the connector as it's mounted upside down and gravity allows the PS fluid to drip down along it. See the rubber seal further up long the threaded portion of the sensor? Drip ... Drip ... Drip ... all along the bottom toward the connector.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
Actually, it probably is leaking through the inside of the pressure switch. (That seems to be the usual failure for them.) Anyway, the repair is the same. Replace the switch and clean up the harness connector.
It actually is leaking right through the plug itself. See the little gray piece at the end where I circled it? That piece moves about and pushes into the plug. That is where the fluid is coming through. There is none on the outside of the piece.
So you are saying I got the correct part and it just looks different from the factory switch? Sorry to be so dense. Just want to make sure before I go back and get under the car with my spine issues and sciatica. I'm still paying for doing the wheel hubs and pads on sunday.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
No, that's not what I am saying at all. I was just saying that you are correct in saying that the switch is leaking on the inside and the fluid is coming out of the connector. This is not an uncommon way for that part to fail.
There were two different pressure switches used. AFAIK, it is random as to which one you will have. What is that one screwed into? Is it in the middle of the high pressure hose? Is it on the rack? Is it on the pump? You may have to buy a new high pressure hose.
I will have to look. I want to say that it was connected to the hose. But above that round aluminum part that has the part number on it it is shaped like a nut. As if it will come out to in order to be changed. It isn't apart of the hose itself.
Additionally, my car was built on 06/21/2000. Right at the last part of the 00 year production. If that means anything.
Scratch the above.......I found on a JAG forum where an owner of a 2001 S TYPE R had this same issue: http://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...er-steering-fluid-leak-pressure-switch-93670/
He used this part to fix it. I'm hoping this is the correct part. But its listed as bing 2005-2014 model year FORD/LINCOLN/MERC vehicles: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-POW...ash=item541824507c:g:zIkAAOSwv0tVTnpm&vxp=mtr
Thoughts?
He used this part to fix it. I'm hoping this is the correct part. But its listed as bing 2005-2014 model year FORD/LINCOLN/MERC vehicles: http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-POW...ash=item541824507c:g:zIkAAOSwv0tVTnpm&vxp=mtr
Thoughts?
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
To begin with, Ford sold the hose with the pressure switch as an assembly. Now they are selling the hose and the pressure switch separately. I do not know if the size of the pressure switch fitting in the hose changed or not. I would assume that what worked on a 2001 S-Type, should work on a 2000 LS. If the electrical connector fits and it correctly screws onto the hose, you should be good. If that doesn't work out, the worst case would be to buy the new "service" hose and the new "service" pressure switch. Unfortunately, they want a lot for the new hose.
roncoinc
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Thats a great idea tnx !
I would also think to be careful to not put to much in and blow it out
That's how it failed in my wife's '06....... I replaced the sensor with no issues; other than access.....
Is this the same sensor you bought? Or can you provide a link or info to where I can get the part you did. Thanks, I just want to get this fixed and don't want to have to change the hose out completely. As I understand it, that requires partially removing the rack.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-OEM-POW...824507c:g:zIkAAOSwv0tVTnpm&vxp=mtr&rmvSB=true
Near as I can tell, the P/N is/was F3TZ-3N824-A.....
I called Parks Lincoln here in Tampa, FL and they do know which one it is. The guy I talked to said that he was familiar with this issue on the LS as they just had one come through a month or so ago with the same issue. He stated that the part number in the system, he feels like, is incorrect as they had to order a different part but couldn't recall what that part number was. This is so much ridiculousness for such a stupid little part. I'm going to get back under there with a little mirror to see if I can get the rest of the part#. He did mention the same part# you show as well. Isn't yours a GEN2?
Yes, this was for the '06. The racks are different....
roncoinc
Well-Known LVC Member
Yestday,, took a 500 mile trip in my LS.
i really do love this car
i really do love this car
Deaconblue
Well-Known LVC Member
Back In September I pulled the passenger side rocker panel cover off. I had to take care of a small spot of aluminum corrosion on the bottom of the front fender. I used Moeller zinc chromate primer on the bare aluminum - I picked it up at my local West Marine store. I then primed, painted and clear coated the area. I order the paint and clear coat kit off eBay. I cleaned up the light surface rust on rocker panel and use POR15 to seal up those area. I then undercoated the whole rocker panel, edges pinch seams and back side as well. I have been very busy with work this Fall so the driver's side rocker panel will have to wait until Spring.
In October, after having a couple fail soft mode start up conditions, I down loaded the codes, did some research and decided it was time to replace the spark plugs and COP coils. I had already bought the Autolite Iridium XP spark plugs and replacement coils, they had been sitting on a shelf in the garage for a several of months. With only 43K miles on them the original factory parts did not look all that bad. The only one that had an issue was the driver's side rear. The plug and boot showed signs of water intrusion at one time. The O-ring from the oil filler neck tube must be starting to weep/leak - there as some oil under the coil cover panel, but it was not down in the spark plug well yet. I gapped the new plugs at 0.038". I cleaned up the coil cover panels and gaskets and used some clear RTV silicone to seal them up along the front, top and rear edges. The engine now starts up quicker and idles noticeably smoother. There seems to be a little extra zip in the acceleration as well.
Now its November and the mileage on the last few tank fulls seemed a bit low - maybe I was enjoying the improved engine performance a bit too much? Well, it was time to put the winter wheels/snow tires on the car this weekend, so I decided it would be a good time to replace the rear brake rotors and pads as well. Those parts had also been sitting on the shelf in the garage for a while as well. I found the reason for the lower MPG's - there was a frozen caliper slider pin on the passenger rear. I was able to knock the slider pin out of the caliper mounting bracket. It wasn't too bad, so I cleaned it up with a wire wheel. I was also able to clean out the bore of the caliper mounting bracket with the drill press and a couple bits, without enlarging the bore ID. The problem was caused by a damaged rubber bellows boot. Luckily I never throw anything away and found a match from another Ford rear caliper rebuild kit that I had in the spare brake parts drawer. I cleaned up the other slider pins, re-lubricated them with dielectric grease and all is now well. I used a pair of AutoZone Duralast Gold brake rotors (higher carbon content and fully corrosion coated) along with a set of Porterfield R4-S pads to match the pads in the front that I used with the Jaguar 320mm front brake upgrade.
The "disc brake caliper pad & piston wind back tool kit" that I got off eBay sure made the job quick and easy, both to turn the piston down into the caliper and to get the slots in the piston aligned with the knobs on the pad backing plate.
Now I know my the Michelin X-ice Xi3 winter tires are low rolling resistance tires and my Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 summer tires are not, but fixing that frozen rear brake caliper with the dragging pad sure made a night and day difference in how the car rolls. Hopefully the MPG will improve as well.
The only thing left before the weather really gets cold/bad/ugly will be a new HD 750 CCA group 66 battery.
In October, after having a couple fail soft mode start up conditions, I down loaded the codes, did some research and decided it was time to replace the spark plugs and COP coils. I had already bought the Autolite Iridium XP spark plugs and replacement coils, they had been sitting on a shelf in the garage for a several of months. With only 43K miles on them the original factory parts did not look all that bad. The only one that had an issue was the driver's side rear. The plug and boot showed signs of water intrusion at one time. The O-ring from the oil filler neck tube must be starting to weep/leak - there as some oil under the coil cover panel, but it was not down in the spark plug well yet. I gapped the new plugs at 0.038". I cleaned up the coil cover panels and gaskets and used some clear RTV silicone to seal them up along the front, top and rear edges. The engine now starts up quicker and idles noticeably smoother. There seems to be a little extra zip in the acceleration as well.
Now its November and the mileage on the last few tank fulls seemed a bit low - maybe I was enjoying the improved engine performance a bit too much? Well, it was time to put the winter wheels/snow tires on the car this weekend, so I decided it would be a good time to replace the rear brake rotors and pads as well. Those parts had also been sitting on the shelf in the garage for a while as well. I found the reason for the lower MPG's - there was a frozen caliper slider pin on the passenger rear. I was able to knock the slider pin out of the caliper mounting bracket. It wasn't too bad, so I cleaned it up with a wire wheel. I was also able to clean out the bore of the caliper mounting bracket with the drill press and a couple bits, without enlarging the bore ID. The problem was caused by a damaged rubber bellows boot. Luckily I never throw anything away and found a match from another Ford rear caliper rebuild kit that I had in the spare brake parts drawer. I cleaned up the other slider pins, re-lubricated them with dielectric grease and all is now well. I used a pair of AutoZone Duralast Gold brake rotors (higher carbon content and fully corrosion coated) along with a set of Porterfield R4-S pads to match the pads in the front that I used with the Jaguar 320mm front brake upgrade.
The "disc brake caliper pad & piston wind back tool kit" that I got off eBay sure made the job quick and easy, both to turn the piston down into the caliper and to get the slots in the piston aligned with the knobs on the pad backing plate.
Now I know my the Michelin X-ice Xi3 winter tires are low rolling resistance tires and my Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 summer tires are not, but fixing that frozen rear brake caliper with the dragging pad sure made a night and day difference in how the car rolls. Hopefully the MPG will improve as well.
The only thing left before the weather really gets cold/bad/ugly will be a new HD 750 CCA group 66 battery.
RigsLS
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Pulled the summer wheels off the little lady's 03 V8 LS, mounted the dedicated winters, got one season old winter tires on plasti-dip'ed thunderbird rims, all in all a good deal, they look great on the car.
Didn't like how it sounded when she got lifted on the jack, think it gave way a little on the drivers side front.
Managed to carefully get some small stands under the front, doing the oil change now ... putting Mobil 1 5W20 with some Synthetic Lucas in it . (always my favorite snake oil in a bottle additive)
Gutting some aftermarket rear back up camera out of the console also. (???)
Need to order rear toe adjust end linkages and right side UCA
~ Fun fun fun
Didn't like how it sounded when she got lifted on the jack, think it gave way a little on the drivers side front.
Managed to carefully get some small stands under the front, doing the oil change now ... putting Mobil 1 5W20 with some Synthetic Lucas in it . (always my favorite snake oil in a bottle additive)
Gutting some aftermarket rear back up camera out of the console also. (???)
Need to order rear toe adjust end linkages and right side UCA
~ Fun fun fun
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
dont the TB wheels stick out a bit far? I know my Mark wheels did when I put its winter tires on after I sold it.
G-RELL
FULLY DIPPED LS
Gave Way?!?!?! the metal under the liftpoint???!
RigsLS
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No actually they sit inwards a bit compared to the fenders. I was looking at this while comparing to mine in the garage, were as mine sit close to flush with the top of the fenders, these Thunderbird wheels sit more inwards, hiding under the fender wells.
But you know, now that I think about it, it came with Thunderbird center caps, doesn't mean the actual wheels are same, I'll have to ask M4rk someday.
RigsLS
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Yeah, at the front drivers side, right at the lift point, started to lift there with my low profile jack and she made some noises, started to sink in so I dropped it immediately.
Ended up compromising and lifting the front by the oil pan ... Hahaha no! I did not, I lifted the front more inwards on the frame with a large piece of wood to spread the weight, then quickly put one of my smaller sets of stands in under at the front lower control arms. You gotta do what you gotta do to get it done, this 03 has seen a few Canadian winters too many. She's a bit soft at the jack points.
Now you know why my 01 got rubberized undercoated and kept in the garage during the winters.
RigsLS
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GENERAL QUESTION:
On the second GEN, 03 LS, the lid on the armrest console, why is there two separate levers? The smaller one to the left opens the lid but the large lever on the right doesn't seem to do anything? What gives? What is it purpose? Maybe something broke on this one but it doesn't seem to release anything.
I also have to get the little tray out on that same console, would one remove the lid with those little torq screws and after that there would be some further hardware to loosen to get the bucket tray to lift out?
???
On the second GEN, 03 LS, the lid on the armrest console, why is there two separate levers? The smaller one to the left opens the lid but the large lever on the right doesn't seem to do anything? What gives? What is it purpose? Maybe something broke on this one but it doesn't seem to release anything.
I also have to get the little tray out on that same console, would one remove the lid with those little torq screws and after that there would be some further hardware to loosen to get the bucket tray to lift out?
???
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
The other lever is so that you can slide the lid forward and use it as an arm rest.