What did you do to your LS today?
- Thread starter RigsLS
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1LoudLS
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1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
are you sure that your battery is not starting to reach the end of its life? extreme cold will weaken a battery, and will push a weak battery over the edge.
which is the exact reason the AC does come on when its that cold...
Which you USUALLY don't need,but you DO need heat(it's cooling the air first,drying it,and THEN thru the heater). So I'm gonna put myself in control of when I want it manually off or leave the toggle on and it will return to normal mode. don-ohio
^)My car does that(light goeth out),but I believe the AC clutch is still engaged when in defrost mode. don-ohio
^)
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
hitting auto or defrost will turn allow the AC to run as needed (since AC it pretty critical to the defrost process) but hitting the AC button to turn it off will keep it from turning back on
Yeah I thought so too, but I have had this car for 7 years. It's always done that. The battery has been replaced twice in that time. To this day it still does it. But it only does this not starting crap when it gets to 0°F or below. At 4° it works fine without putting a space heater in it.
There is a confusion in terms. There's "defrost" and then there's "defog". The a/c is essential to the "defogging" processes regardless of temperature.
Check out FMVSS 103 for the details on this.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
"What do you mean 'you people'?". I'm part of that collective "you" and I'll have you know I am a very humid person and I usually DO need to defog my windows when it's cold enough to use the heat. I could have 4 other people in the car and have all the windows clear except for mine. It kinda sucks
But I do get steamy in the winter
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
There's more to it than just defogging the glass. If you didn't run the compressor all winter long, the compressor isn't circulating oil through the system. All the oil pools at the bottom of the system and the seals dry out. After a couple of winters, the seals develop cracks and you start losing Freon. This is why older cars always had leaks within a couple of years, but cars built today may go 10 years or more before you have any leaks.
It's a minor point, but if you run recirculated air(yes,there's a button for that too,LOL!)you'll really need to dehumidify more.
If you're running normal outside ventilation and the humidity is low,or it's really cold out there you can disable the AC clutch on defrost and the windshields stays clear USUALLY. THAT'S why I will run a switch interrupting the AC clutch on my cars. Don't let the car operate you.......YOU operate the car. don-ohio^)
P.S.: Yes,Frank....I realize you are STEAMED up! LOL!
If you're running normal outside ventilation and the humidity is low,or it's really cold out there you can disable the AC clutch on defrost and the windshields stays clear USUALLY. THAT'S why I will run a switch interrupting the AC clutch on my cars. Don't let the car operate you.......YOU operate the car. don-ohio
^)P.S.: Yes,Frank....I realize you are STEAMED up! LOL!
"What do you mean 'you people'?". I'm part of that collective "you" and I'll have you know I am a very humid person and I usually DO need to defog my windows when it's cold enough to use the heat. I could have 4 other people in the car and have all the windows clear except for mine. It kinda sucks
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1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
If you're running normal outside ventilation and the humidity is low,or it's really cold out there you can disable the AC clutch on defrost and the windshields stays clear USUALLY. THAT'S why I will run a switch interrupting the AC clutch on my cars. Don't let the car operate you.......YOU operate the car. don-ohio
right out of the owners manual...
"In all modes, the air conditioning will only function if the outside temperature is about 2° C (35° F) or higher. "
if I wanted a car where I had to control everything on it, I would have just bough a Foxbody, I bough a Lincoln because of all its convinces... I'm perfectly fine with letting the car do its own thing while allowing me to sit in comfort.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
On this, I agree with you. The problem with letting the car make these decisions is the car invariably makes the WRONG decision.
EBK
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Bought the 2002 Lincoln LS I saw for sale. Gave it to my mom. So far she loves it. 115,889 miles on it. Got it for $3400 cash
Telco
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RigsLS
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don-ohio wrote: THAT'S why I will run a switch interrupting the AC clutch on my cars.
... and on the Lincoln LS, we'll have to take your word for it that the already provided designated AC switch on the DATC was not good enough so you wired something identical into it. Makes total sense to me!
... and on the Lincoln LS, we'll have to take your word for it that the already provided designated AC switch on the DATC was not good enough so you wired something identical into it. Makes total sense to me!
RigsLS
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Over the last couple of weeks, took delivery of two sets of Rear Toe Adjust linkages,
one set is OEM for the wife's 03 LS, other set is the non-passive steering JAG aftermarket sourced from the UK for my 04 LSE.
Although a bitter cold and dirty job,
last night got the new OEM Upper Control Arms and Passive Steer Toe Adjust linkages in the 03 LS.
Picked up some special order Coil Cover hold down bolts and a brand new OEM vented battery for the 04 LSE.
Two new Battery tenders for the 01 and 04, darn things keep on running flat too often, too cold and not enough driving.
New battery is going in the 04 soon as I get the emissions to pass, driving it a bit to get the last EVAP and CA to go into a ready state, not changing the battery while in progress, would only end up in restarting process over again. Plan is to hard wire the Battery tender hook up connections to the battery as a permanent solution.
Checked on the price of a brand new A/C Compressor at the dealers ... for fun of course ... $1000CDN, my price = 900$ LOL ... yeah OK! I'll take free shipping to Georgia from Tasca and drive down to pick it up myself instead. Duty free in my carry on luggage, no receipts. Ha! May look at rebuilding it or a used one from a scrapper, may still just replace seal for now along with a new clutch. We'll have to see ...
Got two new O2 upstream sensors going into my beater Maxima next Monday. Gotta get emmisions to pass on that one also.
Following Monday thereafter doing the rear UCA, Toe adjust and sway bar end linkages on the 04 LSE. Hopefully exhaust week thereafter.
Fun, Fun, fun ...
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Working on it. Closing on my house took more of my available cash than I expected. May be stuck for another month or two.
Problem with that is the user input to the DATC is not a direct control. Instead you tell it what you want it to do, then it decides if it will do it according to its programming. If its programming says no, then you don't get what you want. It may set the lights so you think you are getting it, but that doesn't mean you are. I would have to wonder if Don't setup sets a code though, although that could easily be overcome by switching the input to a ground source through a resistor matching the resistance through the AC clutch instead of a simple open. Or, through a resistor dropped voltage source, depending upon whether the DATC sends voltage to the AC or grounds the input.