What did you do to your LS today?

So I've got two LSes which I call the 'Monitor' and the 'Merrimac' in a nod toward the ease of getting replacement parts.:confused:

The Merrimac is the Grey one and the one currently running around here in California. I recently repaired the auto tranny and then pulled the degas and tightened up on the hose connections (put on screw-down type) as the factory originals were allowing a slight leak. I have decided to purchase the genuine Ford replacement bottle as the Dorman bottles have caused my numerous problems.

So what I want to do next is eliminate the severe clunking and after much research and consultation, I have determined that the source is the sway bar bushings. THere is a thread on here about replacing them which I found extremely helpful. My plan is to purchase the correct diameter bushings for the non-sport Merrimac from energysuspensionparts and dive on in. I think I have the tools and ability to do what sounds like a challenging job.

I do have a question however - one of my consultants (LS friend) says the bushings don't really work and I'd be better off with a new bar from Ford. Since thos are many more $$$s than the bushings and I'm already spending about $178 on a degas bottle I am not really able to afford the bar unless its absolutely necessary. So, can anyone comment on the bushings durability etc? They dont have to last a lifetime, just maybe 1/2 as long as the originals would do.

Thanks. George
 
Make sure that it is really the bushings and not the end links. I suggest that you just go ahead and replace the end links first (only $30 for both). You may find that this is all you need to do. (Looking and listening on my 04, I was sure it was the bushings, but it turned out to be the end links.)
 
joegr said:
Make sure that it is really the bushings and not the end links. I suggest that you just go ahead and replace the end links first (only $30 for both). You may find that this is all you need to do. (Looking and listening on my 04, I was sure it was the bushings, but it turned out to be the end links.)
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I will see if I can determine that. And will check to see if energy also supplies the end links.
 
some people dont like the energy bushings because they are too narrow, I have not had a problem with mine in the five years or so that they were changed out.
 
Swaybar was sliding side to side on the too narrow ES bushings.
 
GEN 1 Sport only, using the OEM brackets and obtaining the Jaguar Rein #XR819697 30mm bushings from FCparts
 
BigRigLS said:
GEN 1 Sport only, using the OEM brackets and obtaining the Jaguar Rein #XR819697 30mm bushings from FCparts
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Yeah, one of mine is a sport model, the other non-sport.

I'm doing the non-sport bushings first. I understand the proper diameter is about 27mm. But who sources these besides energy suspension and what is FCparts?
 
You don't have to JUST do anything other then not put too narrow of a bushing on it in the first place.
However, granted ... a remedy to resolve your issue is warranted and well noted of course. +1 fix



EDIT - - - -

To my surprise, last night I was on TascaParts and noted they had several diameter bushings for the rear sway bar, who's not to say those may fit the front ?

here have a look: http://www.tascaparts.com/auto-part...ension-cat/stabilizer-bar-and-components-scat

note #2 bushing available in both Performance and Standard. Not sure if it comes with a split, how else you get it on the bar?



Wouldn't that be interesting if those would fit properly on the front sway bar?

I do not know if they would or not. Possibly wishful thinking on my part.
 
BigRigLS said:
You don't have to JUST do anything other then not put too narrow of a bushing on it in the first place.
However, granted ... a remedy to resolve your issue is warranted and well noted of course. +1 fix
Click to expand...

The well lubricated narrower poly bushings and new link ends made a noticeable sharpening of the response from the steering input and reduced the lean somewhat as well, but that is to be expected compared to roached OEM rubber bushing and most likely warn OEM link ends. The new parts are allowing the sway bar to properly do its job.

BTW, I have use this split collar trick before on a couple other cars that had upgraded sway bars without the welded-on washers/flanges that limit side to side motion. It works every time. Based on the shape/curvature of the sway bar or other clearance issues, you may have to position the split collars on either the inside or outside of the mount bushings. Which every way fits will work, just remember that you have to do it the same way on both sides to properly restrain the side to side movement of the sway bar.
 
What did I do to my LS today? Hmmmmm..... Just thinking outside the box.

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Deaconblue said:
The new parts are allowing the sway bar to properly do its job.
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Deacon - just to add to this. I have not come across it yet here in LVC, has anyone attempted to make an existing (or custom) Adjustable endlink for the front bar? I have used adjustable end-links on my last three cars and it allows the link/bar to do its job even better by getting rid of any pre-load on the bar at a desired setup (whether it be lower than stock, corner balanced, etc). If you found the right one and hardware to make it work on the LS it might be a nice serviceable alternative to the Moogs. Even though they do the job and are cheap - they do not adjust. For most daily-driver's, anything beyond the Moog setup is not needed. But If I ever go to Stance coilovers, I have though about "upgrading" my links.


Example: Adj. Endlink
 
DeviLSh said:
Deacon - just to add to this. I have not come across it yet here in LVC, has anyone attempted to make an existing (or custom) Adjustable endlink for the front bar? I have used adjustable end-links on my last three cars and it allows the link/bar to do its job even better by getting rid of any pre-load on the bar at a desired setup (whether it be lower than stock, corner balanced, etc). If you found the right one and hardware to make it work on the LS it might be a nice serviceable alternative to the Moogs. Even though they do the job and are cheap - they do not adjust. For most daily-driver's, anything beyond the Moog setup is not needed. But If I ever go to Stance coilovers, I have though about "upgrading" my links.


Example: Adj. Endlink
Click to expand...

Something like these may work, if they are within the correct length range to replace the factory or Moog links;

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-9-8170r?seid=srese1&gclid=CNuSu5-CsssCFUQ9gQodgnMDkQ
 
Got her inspected after a two year inspection overlapse.
Gave my baby Ellisana Her first bath today : )
Realized My Aluminum coolant line has a hairline crack in it.
Had it explode twice : ).. yay right?

12799352_10153468393868017_6687506243548031926_n.jpg


12832396_10153468396938017_5364838880094536371_n.jpg
 
BigRigLS said:
Does this mean you got it running right and manage to keep the CEL off prior to inspection?




Fun hey? Stay with the program, keep fixing!
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Yea, but then the damn hairline crack made my coolant explode while i was driving...
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
Yea, but then the damn hairline crack made my coolant explode while i was driving...
Click to expand...

Yes yes, this is also normal, something always breaks, even when you think it won't or just fixed one thing or while fixing something else.

I always have a running repair list apart from the mod list.




Today, not even five minutes after leaving the pull yard.

glassdown.jpg



On the bright side, today's U-Pull-it plundering:

1) Good condition RR LCA
2) Both fresh looking Rear UCA's
3) Left and Right rear Calipers
4) 1st GEN tails, 2 Inner and 1 outer


Almost pulled fresh looking rear Sport shocks and springs but the left LCA had one through-bolt w/ nut that proved too much for me without a torch.

glassdown.jpg
 
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