What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

While on Power Tour my Power Steering pump started leaking bad. Been searching around for threads but haven't come across any good ones detailing how to R&R one. I've removed them when the engine is outside of the car but have yet to do one in the vehicle. Anyone have a good bookmarked threads on replacing them?
 
Lownslowlsc said:
When I bought the first set of 20 spokes I must've had the first tire place balance them a half dozen times till I finally gave up. A couple months later I took the front 2 to a local dealer that had a road force machine and had them balanced, same result. At that point I figured something was wrong with the wheels. Got 2 new tires installed at discount tire a year or two ago and...Yup, wobbles still there. Just learned to live with it. Figured I'd buy Kevins just to see what the deal was and they were great. Weights were on the inside/outside lips, I feel like that's where they need to be in order to balance these particular wheels properly.
Click to expand...

They said one wheel was out of balance but re-balanced both while keeping the weights inside. To early to tell if they're wobble free but it is better.
 
Went through hell and back trying to get my AC to work. Turned into trying to get my fan to work properly. Compressor switched in, wouldn't engage. Found out VCRM controls the AC clutch. Got another VCRM, fan still wouldn't work. Been talking to a bunch of the guys, getting wiring diagrams, testing for power with a multi-meter. Just absolutely could NOT figure this damn thing out. I HATE ELECTRICAL ISSUES!!!!!

Want to know what it ended up being?

The :q ECU! I bought a z2 off eBay months ago and have been running it. It was suggested to me to, just for S&G's, try swapping my old z3 ECU back in. Swapped it and and guess what? Boom! Fan turns right on. AL:KJFDSL:FJDSF:LJBUTTONSMASHSLDJF:LSDFJF

So so happy this is resolved. Now, hopefully, I'll go get the AC charged Saturday, the compressor will engage and cycle, and I'll FINALLY have ice cold AC!
 
jbelcourt said:
Went through hell and back trying to get my AC to work. Turned into trying to get my fan to work properly. Compressor switched in, wouldn't engage. Found out VCRM controls the AC clutch. Got another VCRM, fan still wouldn't work. Been talking to a bunch of the guys, getting wiring diagrams, testing for power with a multi-meter. Just absolutely could NOT figure this damn thing out. I HATE ELECTRICAL ISSUES!!!!!


Want to know what it ended up being?

The :q ECU! I bought a z2 off eBay months ago and have been running it. It was suggested to me to, just for S&G's, try swapping my old z3 ECU back in. Swapped it and and guess what? Boom! Fan turns right on. AL:KJFDSL:FJDSF:LJBUTTONSMASHSLDJF:LSDFJF

So so happy this is resolved. Now, hopefully, I'll go get the AC charged Saturday, the compressor will engage and cycle, and I'll FINALLY have ice cold AC!
Click to expand...

As big of a pita that whole troubleshooting process was I can tell your ecstatic that you were able to figure out the problem. Go get that thing charged up and enjoy. :)
 
It feels incredible to have that resolved.

Now, if my ac functions properly saturday, I'm going to feel on top of the world!
 
CE flaps.jpgCE flaps 2.jpgFound the time to put the splash guards on

CE flaps.jpg


CE flaps 2.jpg
 
To get the best torsional stability of carbon fiber (sticker) which orientation should I use?

14460104922_e260b9584e_b.jpg

or
14481635073_bfd801ef30_b.jpg


Just kidding. I looked at Silver, light grey, this grey, and a dark grey, and I think this one will be the best for the radio/shifter surround, ashtray cover, flat part of cup holder, sliver of flat piece in front of ashtray, the wood accents on the doors...I hope to stop there, and not do anything else, but the surround around the key is all jacked up, might see if it will survive externally in the headlight trim pieces on the bottom, the piece that holds the defrost button, the thin radio surround, etc.

Not as dark as I had wanted, I wanted it to be the same as the medium graphite(???) upper tier of dash and door panels.
14275484748_bf3bcefbbb_b.jpg

14275483268_548d90ee87_b.jpg

14275629597_150c156728_b.jpg

14275479798_e812ebca7c_b.jpg
 
Lownslowlsc said:
They said one wheel was out of balance but re-balanced both while keeping the weights inside. To early to tell if they're wobble free but it is better.
Click to expand...

I can officially say that any and all wobble is now gone.

This weekend I plan and messing with the rear coil placement to see if I can figure out why the passenger rear is .5" taller then the drivers side rear. Running out of projects.
 
Rear drivers side spring broke at the last half coil. It's been like that for some time from the looks of it. No noises and it rides fine so idk.... Considering getting the spare sport coils cut.

Looked at my drivers side rocker and found that the rust has gotten considerbly worse over the last winter. Red hides rust pretty well which is good.
 
I like the carbon fiber look. The wood veneer on my doors and radio plate and the piece that surrounds the shifter is worn out, urethane is all yellowed. I dropped the radio surround in gasoline and wah la---veneer and underlying adhesive came off like a mush! So would like to remove it from the door pieces also. But then I was thinking of redoing the veneer. I like your approach ...where do I get the carbon fiber stuff? Cool!
 
I like the carbon fiber look. The wood veneer on my doors and radio plate and the piece that surrounds the shifter is worn out, urethane is all yellowed. I dropped the radio surround in gasoline and wah la---veneer and underlying adhesive came off like a mush! So would like to remove it from the door pieces also. But then I was thinking of redoing the veneer. I like your approach ...where do I get the carbon fiber stuff? Cool!
 
For about the past three weeks I have been having my temperature guage indicate overheating. It will rise to right above the the normal range, and I think this is happening while at a standstill and idling and then when I start driving it will drop back rather quickly to mid range (9 o'clock). This would seem to indicate that perhaps the fan (or fans?) are not coming on when needed. Pardon my ignorance but is there a temp sensor that triggers a cooling fan? I have coolant "topped up" so I don't think it is low. Thermostat sticking ?? Today I am working on my 91 BMW 850i which is a diagnostic nightmare! Two of everything...troubleshooting involves swapping parts from one side of the car to the other! Brilliant German over engineering but not practical or reliable...but when it is running right you know it! Thanks in advance. I love my Linc, 233k mi and still going strong!
 
Yes there is a coolant temperature sensor that is located on the crossover pipe that triggers the fan. You can replace it if you suspect it's slow to react. The needle climing to the bottom of the R is low speed conditions is normal for a gen 1. That's the fan ON point
 
94 intake mod.jpgI did the mod for my 94 intake, got rid of WW idiot light,10 amp fuse jumper,tossed on a new idler, and changed the oil and filter. Don't you just love changing the oil filter on a gen 1?

94 intake mod.jpg
 
On my 94 the tach froze at 900 rpm's. Took it all apart, cleaned all the connectors, and it works once again. After all together, no signals. Take it apart again, and remembered, dirt in Hazard switch. Cleaned it, and all works now. Just had same thing on another car. I just forgot to remember. When I was removing the dash, I noticed it hits the hazard button, and it maybe loosened up some of the crap in there.
 
Detailed my dads Aura this past weekend. Makes me glad I don't have a black interior.


Edit- Keypad light is working again. I'll blame it on the rain.
 
Sapperfire said:
Same as changing the filter on a Gen2.. That's why I'm getting an FRPP filter relocation kit
Click to expand...

I've been doing oil changes on my 95 for 15 years. When I did my first 98 I was so happy that it was much easier. I just did the 94 and it was easier than the 95. The 95 has a stiff rubber hose that you have to pry the filter by,94's hose is different. Bottom line, their all a pain, but we do it because we love them.
 
I didn't think I would be able to get it on the first attempt, and I was right. The dash piece has so many convex and concave and complex curves that I need to change my strategy.

In hindsight I would go with darker grey, and I also would get the newer design stuff with the air channels in the adhesive side. I am not sure how well it will hold up to the 150+ degree interior temps. I places all the pieces in the car after wrapping them for a few hours and only one place lifted, it wouldn't if it was mounted and the other pieces attached. It was only a 145 inside the car, as it was half shaded.

WARNING this is UGLY but I like the color contrast. I think I need to start at the bend between the shifter hole and the upright, and don't try to cut out the holes until I have adhered the rest of it.
14478551346_9517d9c318_b.jpg

14501962995_0139496989_b.jpg

14478554206_ba712540b1_b.jpg

14315068718_c5f1d831ca_b.jpg
 
I agree that it's ugly so why install it? No shame in hitting the abort button. But if you like it then that's what counts :)
 
You got real close on the first try. I would try to go darker, and match the top part of the dash. Normally doing new stuff, proto-type work, the 3rd try comes out right. Get it the way you want it, and enjoy the rewards, and knowledge.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 167 (members: 0, guests: 167)
Back
Top