What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

Okay. Another (possibly stupid) question: I just replaced both the OSS and VSS on my 4R70W in the 'Bird. It didn't change anythng. It still won't go into 2nd without manually shifting it and the CEL is still on and OD OFF light is still blinking. Dammit! And it's still pulling the same code for output shaft speed sensor out of range. I don't get it. But it occurred to me that maybe it could be the 1-2 shift accumulator piston. Maybe? I don't think this transmission has ever been serviced. The pan looks like it's never been removed. So the piston upgrade was probably never done. I'm thinking that if I do that, it may fix, or at least help the problem. Because it only has a problem in 2nd gear. Once I manually shift into 2nd, and then into D, it shifts relatively fine after that. Except for the hard shifting into 2nd. I'm just grasping at straws here. I'm getting frustrated and I don't want to pay a stealership hundreds of dollars if I can figure it out myself. So far I've put $42 into the sensors to no avail. Any suggestions?
 
Painted my calipers red yesterday and changed my front brakes from the cheap-o semi-metallic pads my brother put on it when he owned the car to the Duralast Gold Cmax pads.
 
that interior conversion looks real good, jbelcourt. Doing mine made a huge difference. Did you paint or replace the headliner?
 
I found my cars secret compartment..



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Last winter did a number on that spot. I lost any and all motivation to work back there today after seeing that. Sometimes I wish I could pay somebody to work on my car so that I wouldn't have to see this type of stuff. At the same time it probably would've died many years ago if I didn't.

So it's going all back together with nothing but the wheels done. Defeated.
 
Okay. Another (possibly stupid) question: I just replaced both the OSS and VSS on my 4R70W in the 'Bird. It didn't change anythng. It still won't go into 2nd without manually shifting it and the CEL is still on and OD OFF light is still blinking. Dammit! And it's still pulling the same code for output shaft speed sensor out of range. I don't get it. But it occurred to me that maybe it could be the 1-2 shift accumulator piston. Maybe? I don't think this transmission has ever been serviced. The pan looks like it's never been removed. So the piston upgrade was probably never done. I'm thinking that if I do that, it may fix, or at least help the problem. Because it only has a problem in 2nd gear. Once I manually shift into 2nd, and then into D, it shifts relatively fine after that. Except for the hard shifting into 2nd. I'm just grasping at straws here. I'm getting frustrated and I don't want to pay a stealership hundreds of dollars if I can figure it out myself. So far I've put $42 into the sensors to no avail. Any suggestions?

what, specifically, is the code?
 
that interior conversion looks real good, jbelcourt. Doing mine made a huge difference. Did you paint or replace the headliner?

Thanks man, I appreciate it. 12 hour job (mostly just the painting of the dash and such) I pulled an entire interior from a U Pull and Pay but I realized at the end of pulling it that it had a sun roof and mine doesn't (damn!) so I didn't change the headliner. I decided to keep it saddle for the time being. Looks fine that way though.
 
today...changed the pulley on the belt tensioner, finally no more squeaky squeaky....then tried to get some tree sap/pine tar off the hood..major pita
 
I found my cars secret compartment..



DSCF9610_zps97cae3c5.jpg

DSCF9611_zpsdb2a0ef5.jpg

DSCF9612_zps200fb320.jpg


Last winter did a number on that spot. I lost any and all motivation to work back there today after seeing that. Sometimes I wish I could pay somebody to work on my car so that I wouldn't have to see this type of stuff. At the same time it probably would've died many years ago if I didn't.

So it's going all back together with nothing but the wheels done. Defeated.
Does the car have a sun roof? I found the bracket (rt side of pic) rotted away, but my rockers were ok.
 
SUN: Replaced clip on window motor that I forgot to put on, and re-did the other side. Changed the oil, and never had such a problem in 15 years on my 95. When the stealer changed some gaskets, OF adaptor, valve covers, and thermostat, they removed lots of stuff, and put it back a little different. At one time I didn't think I would be able to get the filter out. I used RA's window kit and it worked out good. Awhile ago I put the HEP dowels in, and it worked for 3-6 months. The dowels didn't blow up, just formed a dimple in them, that made the window when full up or down go thump-thump-thump, and not stop running. They work well now.
 
Does the car have a sun roof? I found the bracket (rt side of pic) rotted away, but my rockers were ok.

It does have a sunroof. I never noticed that hole in the wheel well before, just the rot on the rocker which wasn't all that noticeable last summer. Was clearing out what I thought was road debris and it was like an avalanche of rusty crusties. Now I have a huge hole for all of winters surprises to go. Whatever, I need a new car anyways.

The irs bracket is rusty but still very much intact, the bushing is damn near gone though. The passenger side rocker, irs bracket and bushing are in great shape. :confused:

Corrosion to the underbody and its parts will be the death of this car.
 
Lownslow - man, that sucks really bad. But! It can be salvaged, as I'm sure you know. Have you looked into fluid film at all? It may help slow the cancer on your subframe parts, but its obvious that that section of rot in the rocker will need to be cut out and patched. It's hauntingly familiar to how the rockers were on my partners '02 Montana, complete with giant crust pile. The perks of driving something like that though, is that a billion were made, and one can buy prefab rockers from the rock and rivet them on, which is what I did. This on the other hand, will take some ingenuity. I'm really sorry man, if you lived any closer I'd say bring it around, and I'd help you patch her up. Good luck, I hope someone can help you at least!
 
Lownslow - man, that sucks really bad. But! It can be salvaged, as I'm sure you know. Have you looked into fluid film at all? It may help slow the cancer on your subframe parts, but its obvious that that section of rot in the rocker will need to be cut out and patched. It's hauntingly familiar to how the rockers were on my partners '02 Montana, complete with giant crust pile. The perks of driving something like that though, is that a billion were made, and one can buy prefab rockers from the rock and rivet them on, which is what I did. This on the other hand, will take some ingenuity. I'm really sorry man, if you lived any closer I'd say bring it around, and I'd help you patch her up. Good luck, I hope someone can help you at least!

It's all good. For now i'm just going to fill the hole with expanding foam and throw a couple coats of black on it. That whole section is too far gone (To me), @ 160k i'm just going to ride it out.
 
Here's a tip. With spray foam cans after I use it, I clean the plastic tube, and blow air into the can. 6 months later still works. They are meant to be a one time use. I see that there's a new re-usable kind out.
 
what, specifically, is the code?

I can't remember exactly. I know it's a P070 something. It said that at 1mph the output shaft sensor didn't agree with the input sensor. I've replaced both sensors to no avail. I'm going to Auto Zone today to get the codes pulled again and get the actual code for it.

On a side note, washed and waxed the 'Bird and installed the Mark VIII painted 10-spokes yesterday. I think they look good, but the tires are too small. I went to a friend's garage to get some good used tires, but the only 16" tires he had were P225/50R16's. They're pretty wide, but way too low profile. I'll be ordering some P245/50R16 Falken directionals for it soon.

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For $12 it lets the other guy notice you. Most idiots are on their cell phones while they think their are driving. Must work, most new cars have LED DRL's. I have a full width strip on my PU, that are red brakelights, and I had an a** hole run into me. he was too busy texting. At the last min he noticed me and almost missed me. I don't think they look bad, but I like them mostly for safety. If they miss me once, it's worth the $12.
 
It does have a sunroof. I never noticed that hole in the wheel well before, just the rot on the rocker which wasn't all that noticeable last summer. Was clearing out what I thought was road debris and it was like an avalanche of rusty crusties. Now I have a huge hole for all of winters surprises to go. Whatever, I need a new car anyways.

The irs bracket is rusty but still very much intact, the bushing is damn near gone though. The passenger side rocker, irs bracket and bushing are in great shape. :confused:

Corrosion to the underbody and its parts will be the death of this car.

I found rust in my mark too with a sunroof im saving mine at 308k i put bondoglass on it for the winter till i cut it all out and replace it next summer ImageUploadedByTapatalk1414800254.916285.jpg

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I have rust in the same places. My mark is lacking a sunroof. With 116000 on the clock in gonna leave it alone to do its thing. Can't justify spending loads of cash to fix a 1996 when one of the 1996 only parts fails and then the car is non operable trying to find an obsolete part.
 
tires look small....and the car needs to be dropped some.

Boy that sits high. looks like a 13" wheel on the rear. Enough room for some 24"? Car looks good.

Yeah. I know. It looks really weird. I'm going to have to look at either lowering it or going with a much higher profile tire. Right now, it's got P225/50R16s. I want to go with 245/50s but I don't know if they will fill the fenderwells out enough. I'm going to try some 225/60s when my friend gets some more used tires in. I've always thought the MN12 T-Birds sat too high anyway. My mom's '97 30th Anniversary Cougar has the Mark VIII snowflakes with 225/60R16s and it still has a whole lot of inner fenderwell showing.
 

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