What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

- ordered my o2 sensors (4) and i ordered my hid kit from DLF and autolite764 spark plug.
- my windows are getting 20% tint all around
- alarm installed this weekend
- looking to order gorilla wheel locks (ASAP)


@snappfire- where can i get the parts for the jmod and a trans cooler(20,000btus or higher)
 
Here's what I found in my transmission pan today.
tranny plug.jpg
177K miles and the pan has never been down.:eek:
And here are the new tires.
tire.jpgnew tires.jpg

tranny plug.jpg


tire.jpg


new tires.jpg
 
The thing you found is the trans tube plug, just means nobodys dropped the pan before, or they didnt know what it was and left it.

I know what it is.:) That's why I posted a picture and said that the pan had never been down until now. I've seen many, many, many of these.

Interesting. What was the fluid like?

Amazingly, the fluid was red. No brownish tint at all. And it stunk just like Mercon V. What I think is that the tranny may have been flushed at some time or another, but the filter was never changed. I could tell when I broke the first bolt loose that the pan had never been touched.
 
Yup, you are right. My bad.

Cute signature. :rolleyes:

lol..im glad that you like my sig. You guys make me laugh. I used oem srbings on dlf and kk's recomendation as well. I'm having problems with the wheel still hopping, but i think that i should have got new crush sleeves.
 
thats one hell of a hill i was coasting down cuz that was at 75~ish for 2 hours


sooo...you like the sct better than sniper? What is your actual mileage by hand for a tank of gas?
 
Doesnt mean its never been down,ive dropped lots of pans on rebuilt trans and the plug was still there.

I've worked on enough of these trannies to know if the pan has been down. This one had never been touched. I could tell by the way the bolts felt when I broke them lose. And why would you leave that plug in the pan when you put it back together?
 
Have you completely removed the bolt from the UCA ball joint? If so then just hose it down with some PB Blaster and let it sit over night.
If you cant get the strut to LCA bolt out then you just ain't trying. That bolt can be a little stubborn on northern cars but its not a bolt that ever completely seizes in place and is always pretty easy to remove. I can push mine out with my pinkie.
 
If you cant get the strut to LCA bolt out then you just ain't trying. That bolt can be a little stubborn on northern cars but its not a bolt that ever completely seizes in place and is always pretty easy to remove. I can push mine out with my pinkie.

Sorry, but that's just not true. I've had to cut more than one out on northeast cars. The bolt will rust solid to the LCA bushing sleeve.

When you replace it, I'd suggest spraying the new bolt with WD-40 before you install it.
 
Sorry, but that's just not true. I've had to cut more than one out on northeast cars. The bolt will rust solid to the LCA bushing sleeve.

When you replace it, I'd suggest spraying the new bolt with WD-40 before you install it.
Don't be sorry, I can take it when I am wrong! :lol: :beer:

Man I am so glad I don't have to deal with that crap! I have only worked on a dozen or so Mark VIIIs but none were rust belt cars. A couple had some rust issues but that bolt never gave me a hint of a problem. Then again I haven't seen a rusted out EVAP tray in person either. :lol:
 
I'd take a pic of my evap tray if it wasn't so embarrassing. topher you might invest in a handheld torch if your replacing everything. I pb blastered everything and let it sit overnight but still had to take a torch to my uca.
 
I don't want to torch to much the UCA is only a year old, and for some odd reason I cant get the bolt out of the UCA. I don't dare beat the bolt out of the LCA to much more it's starting to mushroom a little.
I also soaked everything with PB Blaster so hopefully tomorrow bright and early I can get something done
 
SPRAY IT WITH PB BLASTER AND LET IT SIT OVER NIGHT!

Also, go to the parts store and get a new bolt if that one is mushrooming out.


Gawd I am glad we dont have winter here. :lol:
 
sat in my ride a gripped the sterring wheel real tight and went VROOM VROOM CHUGGA CHUGGA VROOM VROOM! Had my eyes closed and just complete a 10.8 1/4 mile.
 
sooo...you like the sct better than sniper? What is your actual mileage by hand for a tank of gas?

dunno i aint done the math or a full tank yet so we will see. but yes i like the sct tune better, it doesn't slam through the gears at light throttle, like sniper did, it shifted the same wot or idling through the gears and usually it would wind out 2nd gear then chunk into od under light throttle, and good luck getting any help from them, i still cant get any of their shyt to load onto the new laptop, and getting a response from anyone over there is next to impossible unless you post about a fukkin mustang
 
I went out to the car, sat in the drivers seat and thought(while making soft slow motions across the das with my hand) it wont be long baby and we'll be vroom vroomen!....

:steering :burnout: :L
 
Went outside. Looked at mine. Set out some tools. Started to die in the heat. Went back inside. It can wait a little longer to get pulled apart. :lol:
 
took mine to get my daily pack of smokes.. You ask why i don't get mutiple packs at a time, well, i have to have an excuse to drive my car atleast 1 time a day.
 
Replaced my rear neon with one I bought last week, now it glows! Anyone know how to make the rear speaker grills not rattle from the bass? I put new Alpine speakers in and the grilles rattle if the bass is even a little heavy. I have them off right now.
 
Replaced my rear neon with one I bought last week, now it glows! Anyone know how to make the rear speaker grills not rattle from the bass? I put new Alpine speakers in and the grilles rattle if the bass is even a little heavy. I have them off right now.

bend back the metal tabs from the plastic backing and remove the grill itself, i put some felt tape on the plastic between it and the grill and just put the grill back together
 

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