What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

Rear trunk accessory tray came out as promised. I have an unused radio antenna lead behind the JBL amplifier. The lead from the actual antenna seems to go down in front of the wheel well along with what looks like the power leads for the ant. itself. Why the lead with no obvious use? Is it for cars w/o a CD changer- or no JBL system? Everything I have worked on so far seems intuitive - one of the things I have always liked about Ford products. Well, except for the balky memory seat function. That seems to be haunted by the ghost of Jac Nasser.
 
Over heated it...yay


(5 hours later)
installed new fan, it works...and by the way, Gen2 and Gen1 are the same fan
 
Installed my new front rotors and pads then took it for a test drive.
My new front sway bar collars rattle against the k-member. :(

It gave me a thought as to what my rear rattle was and checked the spacer between the rear bar and controll arms. When the car is on its suspension there is 1mm of wiggle room on the spacer. So I just added another shim on each side for the rear sway bar and am gonna go see if that cured the rear rattle.

To fix the front one I need to add the extra set of shims under the sway bar mount and cant do that on the car so I will have to live with the rattle for a while.
 
Set around while the insurance adjuster tried to beat my balls witha sledge hammer. Some dick backed into my VIII at the local diner. My ole lady parked away from everyone and yet this old :q:q:q:q backs right into the front end of my ride. He says I dont know what I was doing I seen your car there and I just didnt stop.
:mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad::mad:
 
got the new alt in Tux, and swapped batteries. Now to figure out why he keeps frying alts...any clues anyone??

gotta give a big thanks to chickie and hotties in chat on wednesday night - thanks!!!! After I put the charged battery in he raised right up...and up...and up....lol now does anyone know how to troubleshot the sensors.... lo
l
 
Alt problem

After 4 new altenators, I found 2 things that can cause them to fail. The positive battery clamp had a crack in it. HEAT is #2. I still like the engine beauty cover on my 95 mark. I trimmed about 2" off the front center, and drilled holes all accross the front, to allow more air to get by. I was changing my alt once a year, and it's been over 2 years and still working great.
 
I finally got the passenger side door handle installed on the '97 LSC. It was a PITA, but it only took me about an hour. Also fixed an annoying rattle in the door panel. Got the oil changed in the '97 too. I only went about 500 miles over my customary 3K mile interval. Not bad. Getting ready to wash both Marks in a few minutes. They're both filthy. Such is the consequence of living on a dirt road.
 
Washed 'em!

clean mark 4.jpg clean mark1.jpg clean mark 2.jpg clean mark 3.jpg

clean mark 4.jpg


clean mark1.jpg


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clean mark 3.jpg
 
Wellfinally found some time to rebuild all brake calipers and why I was at it, I painted them a nice bright red. this little project started on Saturnday at 12:00 stopped for the night at 7:00PM, found I blew a seal in left front caliper(one I just put in, Faulty) had to pull it back off and rebuild a second time.

on the left front caliper, the sliding hardware was seized into the bracket, played hell to remove it, cleaned out the bore and thankfully, I had planned on replacing all of the hardware from dust boots to pins, ETC.. I was prepared. Also on the passenger rear same thing. seized slide bolt. no fun.
Anyway I have a few pics of the started process, I will upload finished pics once I get her cleaned up again.

Oh and had the fun of replacing the power Booster as well...

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Make sure you clock those rear caliper pistons the right way ;-)

Sorry, What? Clock them? are you saying to make sure they are properly placed on the correct side so they infact squeeze the pads instead of open up? I didnt really think you could reverse them. :)
 
On the pad mating surface of the piston, there are 2 divots that need to be at the 6 and 12 to align with the nipples on the pad or it won't sit correctly

open up??? If you don't put the caliper on the correct side, the main problem you'll have is bleeding them, it would be impossible to bleed them out with the bleeder valve on the bottom...

There is several things that need to be done whn doing rear calipers...the piston must be rotated back into the bore because of the actuater screw, it's must be clocked properly when fully seated, did you rebuild the rear calipers or just the fronts?
 
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there seems to be plenty of Coolant inside cylinders 7 & 8, wonder why she keeps overheating....because this stuff is the Devil!!
9b3d4d91.jpg

if you have a "neglected" cooling system, I don't recommend using any chemical flusher addatives...I tried this bottle to help remove some rust residue from the crossover tube and overflow bottle...it did THAT fine, as well as washed out residue that was in the water pump (causing water pump to fail) as well as finished washing out residue in the head gasket (causing head gasket to completely fail)
 
Your rear sway bar links need to be replaced. See how they are bent? They will snap soon.
 
Hey Sapper, when we were discussing this yesterday do you remember what two cylinders I said you are prolly leaking at?
Das rite, I is teh man.


Sapperfire hates it when I work on his car cause I always call out the problem by just glancing at it.


"My headlights flash"
"Your alt is bad"
Verdict: Correct

"Whats making that noise?"
"Water pump going out"
*pump starts to spew coolant*
Verdict: Correct


"My exhaust sure is smoking"
"Yup, prolly a blown head gasket"
Verdict: Correct
 
On the pad mating surface of the piston, there are 2 divots that need to be at the 6 and 12 to align with the nipples on the pad or it won't sit correctly

open up??? If you don't put the caliper on the correct side, the main problem you'll have is bleeding them, it would be impossible to bleed them out with the bleeder valve on the bottom...

There is several things that need to be done whn doing rear calipers...the piston must be rotated back into the bore because of the actuater screw, it's must be clocked properly when fully seated, did you rebuild the rear calipers or just the fronts?

So far just the fronts.. I am tackling that job another day.. ok I am aware of the piston being screwed back into the bore, I just wasnt sure what he meant when he said clocked.. as far as correct side yep got that covered.. the caliper is labled LH/RH pretty easy to figure out.
Thanks
Bill
 

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