What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

Don't think I'll trade right now. Your right pulling them apart is much more work. I spray a professional grade UV clear on them, to keep them looking nice for years. The oldest pair I have done is 4 years old and counting and still look new.
 
thaywood said:
Well, I've bled my brakes on the '95 twice since repairing the brake line and the pedal is still mushy :mad: Dammit.
Click to expand...

How are you bleeding it? Is that line splice weeping ANY fluid? Even the tiniest bit of fluid coming OUT will allow air IN since an oxygen molecule is smaller than a brake fluid molecule

Does that line splice have 2 brass fittings inside of it? Those are NEEDED for a seal to be made by each end of the double flared ends of the cut
 
Sapperfire said:
How are you bleeding it? Is that line splice weeping ANY fluid? Even the tiniest bit of fluid coming OUT will allow air IN since an oxygen molecule is smaller than a brake fluid molecule
Click to expand...

I'm bleeding RR-LR-RF-LF. Longest line to shortest line. The line splice is not leaking any fluid that I can detect.

Sapperfire said:
Does that line splice have 2 brass fittings inside of it? Those are NEEDED for a seal to be made by each end of the double flared ends of the cut
Click to expand...

Yes, the splice has the fittings inside. It probably just has more air in it that I was expecting. I'll just do it again this weekend until it's right.
 
Are you using the master cylinder (pump brake pedal and hold) method, a vacuum bleeder (mighty vac or other) or gravity?
 
FR and RL are on one circuit from the master cylinder,
RR and FL are on another circuit. so you still have one front and one rear brake in the event you blow a brake line out.

and also a few things related to master cylinder design and function that don't relate to brake bleeding.
 
chris2523 said:
FR and RL are on one circuit from the master cylinder,
RR and FL are on another circuit. so you still have one front and one rear brake in the event you blow a brake line out.

and also a few things related to master cylinder design and function that don't relate to brake bleeding.
Click to expand...

That's good to know for when one of my rear lines blow...



Note to self: Get rear lines replaced.
 
Went to take it out Easter Sunday after not using it for a month. Battery died so I bought an interstate mega tron plus. Then yesterday hit the junkyard and found 3 98s. One had a new alternator. Picked it up and will return later this week. 2 of the cars had motorcraft air springs and 1 had a spring kit. Also going to take the steering columns and drivers seat tracks.
 
chargerxr said:
Rich, don't forget to take the rear abs sensors.
Click to expand...

Thanks!! I should take them all. They were using one of the 98s as a yard car. It only had 80000 miles. I saw it out for general public to pick it apart. I remember the guys doing donuts in it really beating it. They finally blew it up. Sad. It has octis but someone took the caps
 
I finally replaced my stock air ride system with Eibach springs and KYB struts from American Air. Love 'em!!
 
STRUT NAZI.JPG

STRUT NAZI.JPG
 
Thaywood, That brake line that you replaced, was it between the master and the ABS pump or was it after the ABS pump? You know where I am going with this right? If it was between the Master and the ABS pump you might be into having the ABS bled out so you can get rid of the air on that side of the system.

Guys, chime in on this please as I am not sure if I am correct with this.
 
LSC HUNTER said:
Thaywood, That brake line that you replaced, was it between the master and the ABS pump or was it after the ABS pump? You know where I am going with this right? If it was between the Master and the ABS pump you might be into having the ABS bled out so you can get rid of the air on that side of the system.

Guys, chime in on this please as I am not sure if I am correct with this.
Click to expand...
----
well, I was gonna suggest slamming brakes while driving on a gravel road to activate/bleed the ABS..
 
......Needs to use a Pressure Bleeder....

Meanwhile in FaLalala Land...
IMG_20140424_131100524.jpg



And these babies showed up, for my Front Cornering lamps and Reverse lamps..
$65 for the 2 sets

IMG_20140424_180741675.jpg



IMG_20140424_181530668.jpg
 
Sapperfire said:
......Needs to use a Pressure Bleeder....

Meanwhile in FaLalala Land...



And these babies showed up, for my Front Cornering lamps and Reverse lamps..
$65 for the 2 sets
Click to expand...

I have similar ones in my daily car's fog lights. They were not as good as I would hoped, curious to how yours do. Amazon?
 
I bought some of the Cree LED for my reverse as well, but I bought mine off eBay and I think it was Samsung brand. I think it was $32 for two.

Mine are bright as all hell on reverse. I was going to buy some for my corners too, but I don't think the guy I bought them from is selling them anymore on eBay.
 
$65 for some led bulbs? Wow, those better be the brightest most crisp leds ever made.
 
LSC HUNTER said:
Thaywood, That brake line that you replaced, was it between the master and the ABS pump or was it after the ABS pump? You know where I am going with this right? If it was between the Master and the ABS pump you might be into having the ABS bled out so you can get rid of the air on that side of the system.

Guys, chime in on this please as I am not sure if I am correct with this.
Click to expand...

dnsherrill said:
----
well, I was gonna suggest slamming brakes while driving on a gravel road to activate/bleed the ABS..
Click to expand...

chris2523 said:
that's how i did it. (actually the cobra brakes could pull it off whenever)
and replaced the ABS pump entirely.
Click to expand...

I'll try that this weekend when I bleed them again. Thanks!!
 
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