Window Regulator Replacement. How-To w/ Pictures.

Great write up, I changed my passenger side door regulator today, but on the process I broke something that has to do with the door lock does anyone have a write up on Ls's door locks? door closes but lock is stiff and wont lock stays open all the time.
 
Guys I want to add something to this article from my experience. Be extra careful while putting the regulator that you dont pull on the cable from the door handle b/c theres a black plastic part that goes attached to the latch and if it comes loose your door wont close and your lock wont work. Just my 2 cents.
 
HyeLifeLS said:
The motor comes with the regulator.
Click to expand...

Not on gen 2.
I did mine about 2 months ago, and swapped my motor onto the new regulator.

My biggest problem was getting the regulator in the right place to completely open, or completely close the window.
Anyone out there who has that quick fix?
Its all good now, but its nice to see where I went wrong...took me 3 try's to get it adjusted correctly.
 
Im getting my LS back tonight. I know it needs the pass. side regulator, wanna have both of them replaced but I called an ebay seller and he told me the regulators he has and all ebay regulators wont work with the auto roll down feature. Is this correct?? If so, where can I buy the right ones and what price I'll be looking for??

Thanks V-8 :Beer
 
Unfortunately, Ill be using this write up soon. My driver side went on the way to work this morning, went to roll down the window at Dunkin Donunts drive thru, and it stopped like 3 inches from the top, then just dropped into the door.

After work, I rolled down the rest of my windows to even out the airflow and I hear the rear driver window fall into the door as well.

I took the rear door panel off when i got home and saw that the cable had gotten all twisted on the pully, I couldn't get it untangled and some plastic clips broke on the black piece that connects to the center of the window. I took out the whole regulator assembly and propped the window closed with some scrap wood I had layig around until I can get the regulator.

The driver front I havent even bothered with yet. I took the panel off and saw that it was much tighter than the rear and got really frustrated. I put some towels around the window inside the door so as not to rattle it around so much in the mean time, and put some clear plastic over the window, vandalism style. lol. I got a quote from the local dealership for about 240 for both regulators and 300 for install.

F THAT. I'll find the regulators online for cheaper and try my hand at installing them. After reading this the consensus seems that the front is easy. The rear feels tricky to me, but I could just be overcomplicating things. I hope I am. I hope I can do it myself.

-sigh-
 
Dude that sucks !! it happend to me once, I replaced both front motors n regulators 10 days ago and now they both roll down at the sametime, like if I press both buttons and leave my window half way up, the pass side window stops at the exact same height.

Bro, dont buy cheap parts, there I bought my regulators brand new at a ford dealer in TX, paid 91-95 each plus 20 bucks shipping. How cheaper can u get aftermarket parts for? Go OEM, its the best.

These is where I bought them, u can just go ahead and call Sam, he would shipp ur order quicker for ya.

www.bobutterfordparts.com
 
I got quoted 150 for the front, and 90 for the back... I guess I should go OEM... but then again, OEM is the stuff that broke in the first place. lol. Though the link you posted is much cheaper!

I'm just irritated right now, I probably will end up going OEM. I spent the evening creating a clear plastic "sleeve" to slip over my front window for when its raining... not cool. Then since I had the blue tape out to secure the plastic, I created intricate stripe designs down the side of the car to entertain myself briefly before being overcome by anger again.

-sigh- oh wells.

That's kind of cool about them stopping at the same time though... I often find myself tinkering with the window heights to make them even with the rears since they dont go all the way down... I thought it was just me!
 
E.M. said:
OEM is the stuff that broke in the first place. lol.

I'm just irritated right now, I probably will end up going OEM. I spent the evening creating a clear plastic "sleeve" to slip over my front window for when its raining... not cool. Then since I had the blue tape out to secure the plastic, I created intricate stripe designs down the side of the car to entertain myself briefly before being overcome by anger again.

-sigh- oh wells.

That's kind of cool about them stopping at the same time though... I often find myself tinkering with the window heights to make them even with the rears since they dont go all the way down... I thought it was just me!
Click to expand...

Right, but how old is ur car?? They lasted a while, if u go aftermarket they wont last as long.

Did u take a pic ??? maybe u inspire someone :cool:

I know, I do the same all the time, I look stupid while doing it trying to keep my eyes on the road while matching all windows height lol
 
hey guy thanks so much fo rthe very very detailed and indepth pictures
this will help alot thanks again jerry :)
 
Just finished the front in about an hour... which included running to home depot to get m6-1 nuts because the new regulator came with studs instead of threaded holes like the stock one did. All in all... it was not as hard as I'd thought it would be just by looking behind the door panel.

Waiting for the rear regulator to show up at the door and then on to that one!
 
Thanks for the step by step, pretty easy job. Hardest, or most annoying, part was removing the old regulator itself.

Took me almost 2 hours(1 hr of real work)... had to keep covering up the car and waiting for breaks in the rain but shes all put back together. I did however bust one of the plastic clips so I have to replace that now, but no big deal.

Side note: my nuts for the regulator were 10mm, not 11mm
 
I get to replace my first rear regulator today. Did anyone ever do a handy write up on the rears? Or, do I get to be the guy to do it?
 
Couple of tips:
The green plug that plugs underneath/into the power window switches on the door. It's kinda tough to release. An easier alternative is to push upwards on the entire window switch console to release it from the door panel, then twist it downwards through its opening to remove it from the door panel/allow you to move the actual door panel out of the way.
Another tip: I couldnt remove the large metal plate from the door without first also loosnening the 4-5 black nuts that hold the regulator on. the upper ends of the regulator sort of stick up inside the doors sheetmetal preventing me from removing the large metal plate. Loosening the regulator nuts allowed me more freedom/wiggle room.
 
Well. We're waiting!!!

rainjacks said:
I get to replace my first rear regulator today. Did anyone ever do a handy write up on the rears? Or, do I get to be the guy to do it?
Click to expand...

rainjacks, it's been forever. When you going to "be the guy"???

I pulled RR my door apart and here are some pics.
Mine is a gen 2 and I used a flat 12" prybar with masking tape over it to pop the 9 very tough clips loose without breaking them. No chance using the putty knife like on my beemer.

LSdoor4.gif


The screws are the two at the base of the door, two behind the pull handle and one on the front edge and one on the rear edge.
LSdoorpanelcliplocations-1.jpg


...and the corresponding clips on the door panel. I used a red line under the clips and a red v under the screws but when the image is compressed, they are very fine. Source photos on PB are good sized. Location in image properties.

LSdoorpanelcliplocations.jpg


Oblique shot shows the clips better.

LSdoor3.gif


Most aggressive ones I've encountered. Door panel pulls straight out, not out and up like a Beemer.

HTH
 
Rainjacks,

wondering if you were going to upload your pictures for us to view - good for someone like me who isn't mechanically inclined
 
I replaced it, I had to reuse my old motor, for some reason my original had a 8 pin connector and the replacement had only 2, that took an additional hour to configure, I saved myself $300 though.
 
Just used the original post in this thread when replacing my front driver's side regulator today. Piece of cake! took 30-45 minutes.

I got the regulator off of ebay for $59 shipped.
 
I just took mine old regulator off. Hardest part was getting the regulator out because one of my cable was wrapped behind the wiring for the speaker and motor. Upon inspection the only thing wrong were the plastic clips and the regulator and motor are fine. Anyone just replace the clips? They're $20 on ebay.
 
I'll be doing this today. I also bought the part $59 shipped on eBay. Ordered tuesday, arriving today.

Hopefully I will encounter no problems. When I took the door panels off earlier it wasn't much of a problem. I had to get the window back up because I was at a toll coming home from DC and the window just fell into the door. had to drive 3 hours home with the window down. Thankfully no rain!

I know the metal piece that the regulator is bolted into is a betch to get out, but otherwise I don't forsee any issues.
 
I got the regulator in fine. It's a bit of an odd job, but it takes no more than an hour and a half or so. When I got the part in from the eBay store, the plastic pieces that hold the clamp onto the regulator were broken on one side. the piece still fit, and it seemed secure once it clamped to the window. I only needed it fixed for a state inspection so until then it will do. hopefully that company will send me another one that is not partially defective
 
I am *hopefully* buying a 01 LS on monday, the seller stated the drivers window does not roll down (common problem, yes) but the seller stated it was just the clip that broke. Is there any way to tell if it is the clip, regulator, or the motor to see what the issue truly is? Thank you
 
Is there an easy way to tell if its just a clip or the whole regulator that's bad?

The LS I am hopefully buying on Monday has a bad drivers window, the seller states its just the clip but I need to replace the whole motor for that one clip which contradicts what I've read in this thread.
 
JackRabbitStorm said:
Is there an easy way to tell if its just a clip or the whole regulator that's bad?

The LS I am hopefully buying on Monday has a bad drivers window, the seller states its just the clip but I need to replace the whole motor for that one clip which contradicts what I've read in this thread.
Click to expand...
might as well get the whole thing at autozone or o reillys. they have a lifetime warranty and will replace them.. i had three already replaced from autozone..
 
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