Not likely as the XF takes it's suspension and mounting points from the XK.
Check that again. The XF is on the DEW98 platform.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_DEW98_platform
Not likely as the XF takes it's suspension and mounting points from the XK.
Check that again. The XF is on the DEW98 platform.
http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ford_DEW98_platform
The cruise control icon doesn't dim with the rest of the dash lights.
I knew I wasn't the only one.[/QUOTE
I agree! Just finished a 900 mile road trip with four hours of nighttime driving and that bright light was killing me I am going to try a trick my dad did on an old Ford Explorer he had - add a small square of light window tint directly over the icon on the clear plastic cover of the gauge cluster...
I knew I wasn't the only one.[/QUOTE
I agree! Just finished a 900 mile road trip with four hours of nighttime driving and that bright light was killing me I am going to try a trick my dad did on an old Ford Explorer he had - add a small square of light window tint directly over the icon on the clear plastic cover of the gauge cluster...
I would think that you could just connect that light to the rest of the cluster using a pair of relays. Use a switching relay we will call Relay 1 that switches from 87 to 87a to control whether the cruise light sees a solid 12V or a variable voltage level like the instrument cluster gets. This is not the same as a driving light relay that connects 30 to two separate 87 pins, this is a relay that connects 30 to 87 when there is no power to the control point on the relay and to 87a when there is power on the control point. We will also use a simple on/off 4 pin relay, called Relay 2 to control when the light comes on.
Connect Port 30 of Relay 1 to the cruise light on the cluster via Relay 2. Connect Port 87 to a switched 12V source so that the circuit will only have power when the key is on. Connect Port 87a to the power line that runs the instrument cluster lighting. Connect port 85 to a circuit that only has voltage when the headlights come on at night and ground Port 86. This will give you a solid 12V for daytime and a variable voltage for nighttime that lets you adjust the cruise light level along with the instrument light level.
The wire that comes off Port 30 of Relay 1 will feed Port 30 of Relay 2, which is a simple on/off relay. Port 87 of Relay 2 will connect to the cruise light. Port 85 will connect to the wire that powers the cruise light now, and Port 86 will go to ground.
Using this setup Relay 1 will ensure that the cruise light always has the correct voltage available to it, and Relay 2 will allow the light to come on when the cruise control is activated. This is more trouble but will look a lot better than a piece of tint stuck in the middle of your cluster.
Yea.... Google some more.
We will find salvation for our aftermarket needs within the T-Bird aftermarket.
http://www.thunderbirdconcepts.com/index.htm
Not perfect but it's there. I am very confident we will have resources for the LS for years to come. I am actually doing some research on the Jaguar XF to see if there are any common components since they use the same platform. I am seeing $$$$ floating over my head though. Also looking into the S-Type enthusiast arena. There are actually S-Type owners looking for LS components for their cars. That's a good sign.
Then wiki on....I don't use google for my info. I use wiki as I am also a contributor and editor for open source info libraries.
Their prices seem a bit steep. Over a grand for a Borla exhaust????
Then wiki on....
note to self...rethink using wiki as an info source
Help us out here man! If you have better or additional info, let us see it. I can only go by what I've seen in person and what I've gathered from talking to my cousin who worked at the Wixom plant. To be honest, I find it hard to believe Ford would abandon such a fine chassis.
Half way down the page... Chassis paragraph.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jaguar_XF
This info is not hard to find elsewhere either. Google is your friend.
3 complaints: (2000 V8)
1. rear roof saggs, not worried at present since it has to come out anyway for a sunroof repair kit installation
2. while on the highway, accelleration pulls the steering to the right, while easing off the gas lets it travel straight again with our compensation. It's a constant fight unless there is little or no acceleration (cruising).
3. crappy cup holders. Not sure who designed them, but they obviously only drank "small" coffees. Probably with cream and 3 sugars.
3 complaints: (2000 V8)
1. rear roof saggs, not worried at present since it has to come out anyway for a sunroof repair kit installation
2. while on the highway, accelleration pulls the steering to the right, while easing off the gas lets it travel straight again with our compensation. It's a constant fight unless there is little or no acceleration (cruising).
3. crappy cup holders. Not sure who designed them, but they obviously only drank "small" coffees. Probably with cream and 3 sugars.
#1: The headliner? Sounds like the glue has deteriorated.
#2: Either the right front tire is bad (causing radial pull) or possibly right side tires are under-inflated. Could also very well be worn suspension parts. NONE of my 4 LSes ever experienced this. Another possibility is the crown of the road. All roads have at least a slight angle to the right for drainage.
#3: Yup, that flip-over cup holder sucks! You can put a 2001/2002 console top on there which will give much better holders. Many of us have done that.
Here are my complaints about my 2006 LS.
Cassette Deck?
The funky double visors.
Wiper speed is too fast on low.
Steering effort seems backward. (I thought it should be heavier at speed.)
Passenger seat does not have the independent adjustment for the front and rear of the cushion.
No knee bolster like I had in my old Mustang.
Last but not least, No wing adjustment for the seat back.
Other than that, she is perfect!
You must have the base model (cassette player)
These are invaluable at times!
I missed the auto-wipers so much that I added a Rain Tracker
this is exactly what my car started doing, it go worse and worse, turns out the rear adjustable links were worn out and needed to be replaced2. while on the highway, accelleration pulls the steering to the right, while easing off the gas lets it travel straight again with our compensation. It's a constant fight unless there is little or no acceleration (cruising).
this was addressed already (twice actually), you just need a newer ls3. crappy cup holders. Not sure who designed them, but they obviously only drank "small" coffees. Probably with cream and 3 sugars.
this is exactly what my car started doing, it go worse and worse, turns out the rear adjustable links were worn out and needed to be replaced
7000. Had an engine built last summer.
gee i was thinking of selling my mark 8 and getting an LS (since its a 4 door and all) but after reading this thread I don't think so... i'm 6'2 and headroom is always an issue. if the drivers area is cramped, that's a deal breaker.
the other deal breaker is drive by wire throttle. which seems to be the norm now days
gee i was thinking of selling my mark 8 and getting an LS (since its a 4 door and all) but after reading this thread I don't think so... i'm 6'2 and headroom is always an issue. if the drivers area is cramped, that's a deal breaker.
the other deal breaker is drive by wire throttle. which seems to be the norm now days