K&N filter

This might be the overlooked benefit, but the larger filter will be much more tolerant of dirt, over a longer time before it will need serviced. The engine will only draw as much air as it needs, so the big filter could be, say, 30% plugged and the car will still run great.
 
HaHAHAHA!! The beginning of the post was about a simple mods that could be bought.. and it spread like wildfire
 
So from what I'm readin, people should just buy a cone filter since the change out of the stock snorkel wouldn't/won't change anything in means of HP to suffice for the price? I want to know what Quik_LS thinks.. And Ghost....
 
LBK_LS said:
So from what I'm readin, people should just buy a cone filter since the change out of the stock snorkel wouldn't/won't change anything in means of HP to suffice for the price? I want to know what Quik_LS thinks.. And Ghost....

Ok...so I lied...my previous post wasn't my last.

Who cares what anyone thinks...why can't someone just show a dyno graph of the comparisons? I think that means wayyyy more than any ones opinion.
 
LBK_LS said:
So from what I'm readin, people should just buy a cone filter since the change out of the stock snorkel wouldn't/won't change anything in means of HP to suffice for the price?

My opinion the gains are in order:
- Changing to a less restrictive filter gets the biggest gains.
- Adding a venturi adds small gains under WOT at speed
- Adding a new smooth intake adds small gains under WOT at speed

there are also the intangibles - the 'sound' improvements and the 'looks' under the hood - neither matter as much to me as the performance but they are added benefits. It's the same logic I used on my exhaust - I did all the performance stuff - but added the quad chrome tips to 'look' good.

I did the whole intake - and would do it again. But Pete - that's just my opinion.
 
Quik LS said:
My opinion the gains are in order:
- Changing to a less restrictive filter gets the biggest gains.
- Adding a venturi adds small gains under WOT at speed
- Adding a new smooth intake adds small gains under WOT at speed

there are also the intangibles - the 'sound' improvements and the 'looks' under the hood - neither matter as much to me as the performance but they are added benefits. It's the same logic I used on my exhaust - I did all the performance stuff - but added the quad chrome tips to 'look' good.

I did the whole intake - and would do it again. But Pete - that's just my opinion.

Quik...I can completely respect ANYONEs opinion...especially someone that appears to have the knowledge that you do. However, I am a complete skeptic when it comes to mod/$. Something that just doesn't make sense...typically...doesn't offer the gains folks claim. I also like to beat the bushes to find the best mod out there for my money and not just take someones word for it. Show me some emperical evidence...and I'm sold.

I like to see either back to back dyno runs (which can still not show the whole picture) or back to back drag strip runs. Either of these will show a mods true capability.

No hard feelings...

-Pete
02 LSE
 
Pete02LSE said:
No hard feelings...
absolutely I understand.

changing the filter get 90%-ish of the gains. smoothing airflow and creating better suction are the small things we can do to improve upon a very limited aftermarket for these cars.

so your decision is:
"- how many rwhp gains are worth your money for things like the intake tube"
and that is a personal decision - but it will only be a few rwhp. That's why you have to factor in the 'look' and 'sound' elements as well - for some that adds $$ for others not. like i said - I added the quad chrome tips to my exhaust - but those cost 1/3 of the overall price - not a wise hp/$ decision ;)

my setup (the entire intake) added 13 rwhp (dyno). the hood scoop added another 3rwhp (dyno). I never did the filter only. So cutting the hood was as much look as function (though probably gives more hp running down the road in the air than on the dyno).

if you assume a 17% drivetrain loss - the intake was good for 15ish hp
 
kleetus said:
Scoops are making use of moving air, and the kinetic energy that it has as some speed... Hood scoops don't do a thing when you launch, because, well, nothing's moving yet. When you're screaming down the track at 100 +, that's a different story.

You are correct that at different elevations the atmospheric pressure changes, the higher you go up, the lower the pressure, and the worse your car, or you, will run. Gravity makes no difference on the air filter. I could hand you two 100 cubic foot CO2 tanks for a welder, one full and one empty, and I'll gauruntee that you can't tell me which is which without an accurate scale.

Cones have the advantage of more surface area, and the flow might look a little better because the air is coming in from all sides. I doubt you'd be able to see any difference just from that alone, again, go back to our previous disscussion about the restrictions and bends in the pipe.

Think about the obvious example: Does a vaccum sweeper run any better when you hold the nozzel straight up or down or any other direction, other than kinking the hose? Of course not. Same thing here. Our vaccum pumps have cylinders, not a centrifugal fan, but the result is the same.


Makes sense to me.
 
I read on the K&N website that air flow takes the least path of resistance any way so if the ID of the intake tube is greater than that of the throttle body the where does buying a smooth tube help. The ripples in the stock appear to be on the outer diameter of the throttle body so are they there for noise abatement only does this feature impede air flow.

So it breaks down to what warren said... Are you doing it for looks or for performance. Like quik ls with teh exhaust tips... he noted they added no benefit other than aesthetic.

So in ranking the mods bang for buck we have the CAI, SCT FLASH, Exhaust and Air Snorkel. In no particular order... so what say ye?
 
eL eS said:
So in ranking the mods bang for buck we have the CAI, SCT FLASH, Exhaust and Air Snorkel. In no particular order... so what say ye?

I can agree with that...the only thing I would caution is using the acronym CAI. Just adding a cone air filter is not the same as a CAI. CAI would require some sort of a heat sheild or a setup like Quik.

That said...here's my $.02...in bang for the buck order

1) Higher flow air filter
2) x-pipe & better flowing mufflers (at least for the 00-02s)
3) Nitrous (obviously no more than a 50 shot)
4) SCT Flasher
 
If it were me, I'd swich #3 and #4 on Peter's list, but keep the order of #1 and #2.. I don't think that Torrie has the flasher configured to handle NOS (just yet) but then again.. NOS isn't for everyone...
 
LBK_LS said:
If it were me, I'd swich #3 and #4 on Peter's list, but keep the order of #1 and #2.. I don't think that Torrie has the flasher configured to handle NOS (just yet) but then again.. NOS isn't for everyone...

Yeah...I originally had the 3 and 4 reversed too...but...for bang for the buck...you can't beat nitrous. My problem with it...is that it's not a permenant solution. You run out of the gas and your power is gone. Like you said...it's not for everyone.

Another reason...not everyone is going to know how to change parameters using the SCT flasher either. It's sorta like LS1 Edit it's easy to screw something up.

Will the stock fuel system really not handle a 50 shot?

-Pete
02 LSE
 
I hear :nos: is :q on the engine and if used frequently would make have to rebuild the engine. Is that true?
 
I ran a 100 shot for a year.

IMHO - NOS is not a practial everyday option - it's only good when you want to test the 1/4 mile times - you do not scoot to work in the morning using NOS!
 
Pete02LSE said:
Pardon my ignorance but...are you saying that atmospheric pressure is the driving force instead of the motor drawing air in? If so...how can you explain something like hydro-locking? Did the water force it's way into the motor or was it drawn in?

Yes - That is exactly what I'm saying.

I'm not sure what you mean by hydro locking, getting water in the motor and having the engine lock up? The moving air caries the water, and if it happens to be in the intake or any where else, it will go where the air pushes it. Same way dust moves... Water is obviously heavier, and will displace the air, when the force of the moving air is not great enough to keep the water moving, it stops. When the valve opens, the water falls in, and it's all down hill from there.
 
So it looks like we finally got this under control... Cool...

Anybody want to discuss the gains from underdrive pulleys?

Yes... I am kidding! :joke
 
Quik LS said:
I ran a 100 shot for a year.

IMHO - NOS is not a practial everyday option - it's only good when you want to test the 1/4 mile times - you do not scoot to work in the morning using NOS!


Yeah... i would hope no one is out there burning that stuff on the street but I know better. I am curios what would be considered excessive use.
 
kleetus said:
So it looks like we finally got this under control... Cool...

Anybody want to discuss the gains from underdrive pulleys?

Yes... I am kidding! :joke


I have heard of them being used in the contour at contour.org by some users there. Not familiar with what it does exactally. Without implying for the usage of the LS what is the gain from this mechanical mod.
 
Underdrive pulleys deliver more horse power by freeing up power lost to parasitic drag caused by driving external accessories. The amount you will realize depends on your car and the accessories you are driving, a car with alternator, water pump, power steering, A/C and a smog pump will see a larger HP gain then a car with alternator and water pump only. Dollar for dollar underdrive pulleys are one of the best value for HP gain on the market.
 
LBK_LS said:
Underdrive pulleys deliver more horse power by freeing up power lost to parasitic drag caused by driving external accessories. The amount you will realize depends on your car and the accessories you are driving, a car with alternator, water pump, power steering, A/C and a smog pump will see a larger HP gain then a car with alternator and water pump only. Dollar for dollar underdrive pulleys are one of the best value for HP gain on the market.

You have got to be kidding me! Please tell me you're joking and don't believe that these stupid a s s e d things do anything! Underdrive pulleys are the biggest joke since the chrome plated dipstick and repacking your muffler bearings! Unless your alternator is trying to power Manhattan Island, you have the steering wheel turned past the lock and wedged to one side, your water pump has no bearings left and is pumping pure tar through it, and your smog pump is plugged solid, these POS's will do nothing but make your wallet lighter!

I can not believe that this idiotic fad is still alive. My cousin was actually dumb enough to try these and in his own words, they did nothing for the 1/4 mile, nothing for autocross, but they did do one thing for the street: the battery discharged when you sat at a traffic light at night. The added bonus, you'd have to drive a half mile to get the idiot light to turn off. He subsequently took them back off, and ate $85.

Sorry... not trying to flame you, but damn... The theory is correct, it should take less power, but here in the real world, not that crap they post in the go-fast magazines, they do exactly dick.

If we're going to do dyno runs to check results, let's not forget this ugly turd...

Sorry dude, I posted that as a joke, and was certainly not serious about ANY gains from them.
 
WOW!!! Tell us how you really feel and try to let it all out, don't hold back.
:bow:

I was laughing so hard people from other offices wanted to see what I was looking at.

:yourock:
 
MikeB said:
WOW!!! Tell us how you really feel and try to let it all out, don't hold back.
:bow:

I was laughing so hard people from other offices wanted to see what I was looking at.

:yourock:


Oh.. in that case... Eh-hem...

:soapbox:
 
Quik LS said:


Read all three pages.... And I agree... maybe 5hp. Can you feel it or see it conclusively on a dyno? Nope.

The one I liked the best was the people using underdrive pulleys, but then changing out some of the other pulleys to make the alternator work right. Yeah, that's a good plan, add HP, then take it away, and empty your wallet.
 

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