K&N filter

K&N/Exhaust

Im Looking to replace my air intake should i replace the whole system Including the tubing and where can i get a good exhaust system but I dont want me car to sound like a beefy truck more like the infinty G-35
 
Last edited:
Im Looking to replace my air intake should i replace the whole system Including the tubing and where can i get a good exhaust system but I dont want me car to sound like a beefy truck more like the infinty G-35
 
kleetus said:
You have got to be kidding me! Please tell me you're joking and don't believe that these stupid a s s e d things do anything! Underdrive pulleys are the biggest joke since the chrome plated dipstick and repacking your muffler bearings! Unless your alternator is trying to power Manhattan Island, you have the steering wheel turned past the lock and wedged to one side, your water pump has no bearings left and is pumping pure tar through it, and your smog pump is plugged solid, these POS's will do nothing but make your wallet lighter!

I can not believe that this idiotic fad is still alive. My cousin was actually dumb enough to try these and in his own words, they did nothing for the 1/4 mile, nothing for autocross, but they did do one thing for the street: the battery discharged when you sat at a traffic light at night. The added bonus, you'd have to drive a half mile to get the idiot light to turn off. He subsequently took them back off, and ate $85.

Sorry... not trying to flame you, but damn... The theory is correct, it should take less power, but here in the real world, not that crap they post in the go-fast magazines, they do exactly dick.

If we're going to do dyno runs to check results, let's not forget this ugly turd...

Sorry dude, I posted that as a joke, and was certainly not serious about ANY gains from them.
Click to expand...



Hmm...so I suppose the 10-12 horsepower (dyno proven BTW) that we see on LS1s make them a turd? LOL...what a hoot. I'll run over to LS1.com and LS2.com and tell everyone we have a new expert on all underdrive pullies. Oh...and may as well head over the all the Mustang guys at the corral and see what they think too.

The ONLY issue with underdrive pullies on the LS1 is that they can cause false knock. Not 100% sure why that is. As for the battery discharging...he probably had an automatic and was running a boatload of aftermarket electronics...or had a short of some kind. Everyone I've ever known (more than one person) that had an auto and NO aftermarket electronics just experienced some light flicker if sitting at idle for too long in gear (not just a few seconds). But...no idiot light. If he had a manual...something was bad wrong with his charging system to begin with...that or his idle SUCKED.

Finally...yes...hydro-locking is when your engine ingests enough water to cause one of the cylinders to be filled...thus on the compression stroke...locking the cylinder (and damaging all kinds of things). This happened on quite a few Camaros and Firebirds that were running a ram air system that funneled air from behind the air dam. They would run through a really bad downpour or a deep enough puddle and the water would be forced up through the filter. The water was then sucked into the engine on the intake stroke...causing the hydro-lock.

I do see what you are saying about the intake stroke causing a lower pressure in the cylinder. Hydro-locking would be the same thing.

Again...let's get some facts here...back-to-back dyno runs or back-to-back track runs. We have enough newbs wondering what to do without the misinformation that's flying around.

-Pete
02 LSE
 
Pete02LSE said:
Hmm...so I suppose the 10-12 horsepower (dyno proven BTW) that we see on LS1s make them a turd? LOL...what a hoot. I'll run over to LS1.com and LS2.com and tell everyone we have a new expert on all underdrive pullies. Oh...and may as well head over the all the Mustang guys at the corral and see what they think too.

The ONLY issue with underdrive pullies on the LS1 is that they can cause false knock. Not 100% sure why that is. As for the battery discharging...he probably had an automatic and was running a boatload of aftermarket electronics...or had a short of some kind. Everyone I've ever known (more than one person) that had an auto and NO aftermarket electronics just experienced some light flicker if sitting at idle for too long (not just a few seconds). But...no idiot light. If he had a manual...something was bad wrong with his charging system to begin with...that or his idle SUCKED.

Oh...what are your thoughts on a smaller blower pulley for the 03+ Cobra or the Lightning? Are they turds too?

Finally...hydro-locking is when your engine ingests enough water to cause one of the cylinders to be filled...thus on the compression stroke...locking the cylinder (and damaging all kinds of things). This happened on quite a few Camaros and Firebirds that were running a ram air system that funneled air from behind the air dam. They would run through a really bad downpour or a deep enough puddle and the water would be forced up through the filter. The water was then sucked into the engine on the intake stroke...causing the hydro-lock.

I do see what you are saying about the intake stroke causing a lower pressure in the cylinder. Hydro-locking would be the same thing.

Again...let's get some facts here...back-to-back dyno runs or back-to-back track runs. We have enough newbs wondering what to do without the misinformation that's flying around.

-Pete
02 LSE
Click to expand...


:gr_hail: Pete02LSE :soapbox:
 
well I will set up my speed tracer this weekend. I will do a street dyno using it and post my results. Stock air box with off the shelf air filter and I will it with the stock air box with K&N.

before the install I will disconnect my battery so it clear the adaptive learning. I will drive it for one day Sarasota and back to Brandon about 130 miles round trip. They use the speed tracer the next day to record the difference if any.

I might buy the cone filter set from Kurtz unless an altertnative can be recommended. I am not sold on it yetas I am using a moded air box whihc I also have one of those sitting int he garage. So I might test the K&N with the moded air box. Then if I am feeling generous I will buy myself a present but I an stingy hateful fun hater so I probably will say no and go for thereapy. :wrench
 
BTW...I didn't mean to delete the part about the Cobra and Lightning pullies. I was trying to add this...but my 30 minutes expired. I wanted to claify the difference.

The blower pullies are not underdrive...however...those do exist. When discussing a blower...smaller pullies are actually overdrive pullies...thus causing the blower to act like a bigger one and provide more of a pressure increase.

-Pete
02 LSE
 
Pete02LSE said:
Hmm...so I suppose the 10-12 horsepower (dyno proven BTW) that we see on LS1s make them a turd? LOL...what a hoot. I'll run over to LS1.com and LS2.com and tell everyone we have a new expert on all underdrive pullies. Oh...and may as well head over the all the Mustang guys at the corral and see what they think too.

The ONLY issue with underdrive pullies on the LS1 is that they can cause false knock. Not 100% sure why that is. As for the battery discharging...he probably had an automatic and was running a boatload of aftermarket electronics...or had a short of some kind. Everyone I've ever known (more than one person) that had an auto and NO aftermarket electronics just experienced some light flicker if sitting at idle for too long in gear (not just a few seconds). But...no idiot light. If he had a manual...something was bad wrong with his charging system to begin with...that or his idle SUCKED.

Finally...yes...hydro-locking is when your engine ingests enough water to cause one of the cylinders to be filled...thus on the compression stroke...locking the cylinder (and damaging all kinds of things). This happened on quite a few Camaros and Firebirds that were running a ram air system that funneled air from behind the air dam. They would run through a really bad downpour or a deep enough puddle and the water would be forced up through the filter. The water was then sucked into the engine on the intake stroke...causing the hydro-lock.

I do see what you are saying about the intake stroke causing a lower pressure in the cylinder. Hydro-locking would be the same thing.

Again...let's get some facts here...back-to-back dyno runs or back-to-back track runs. We have enough newbs wondering what to do without the misinformation that's flying around.

-Pete
02 LSE
Click to expand...


First off let me say that I agree completely with some ACCURATE dyno results, not the s h i t they print in magazines... It's like reading the Summit catalog... so and so claims 20 HP with this mod... yeah, I bet they did, you'll never see it, or be able to duplicate it, but they did... Also the same crap they print about somebody's 91 gt that gets 12 sec 1/4 miles with just a cam, stock tires and pump gas. I really wish the editors would be a little more realistic in what they print. Onward...

10 to 15 hp huh? that's about 3 percent, on a 300 HP engine... what's the margin of error on the dyne? How about weather conditions? Is that actually enough to be seen on the resolution of most charts? 3% in real world, again, means nothing, unless you're making 600 HP or some serious numbers. You'd get more of a gain by skipping dinner, taking a dump, and taking that 40 pound CD case out of the back seat for your next launch! Next...

I recant my statement about the idiot light, you are correct, there is none on a 91gt. He was a stick, 750 idle, with the normal plus or minus 100 that Ford was noted for. Point being, with the stereo on (not at the may be structurally unsafe for your vehicle level), at night, A/C on, but not high, the lights dim out, fan slows down, and the volt gauge drops off the chart. You know that can't be good for other electronics in the car. It's been posted elsewhere that this isn't the best for the machine. So, for a street machine, you're gaining what, exaclty?

My thoughts on underdrive pulleys for a blower? I never said a word about the pulleys for the blower drive. As you pointed out, smaller means faster, and that generally means more boost. Besides, that's not an accessory.. It's a NECCEssity...

Go ahead and go to LS1.com and the like, tell them what you like. They can claim what they wish, but I can prove I still have money in my wallet. Mustang guys? Same diff... Most of my friends around here have had or still have a GT or LX of some form. I still have my 81 Capri with the 351 police interceptor in it. Pound for pound, dollar for dollar, with about $800 in the motor and some money for decent brakes, I still have the best bang for the buck. Sure I've been beat. But at what cost? Nitrous, blowers? sure... My second car's the LS, the other guys are riding around in Hondas... You tell me what makes more sense.

I will tell you this though, I've NEVER been beat by a punk in a GT with a set of cragar rims, two 15's in the hatch and a handfull of bolt ons...

I'm not trying to put anybody down (yeah, hard to beleive right?!?) But marketing, inexperience, and that unwillingness to look inexperienced, make folks do and try just about anything. With the North Hills Sports Car Club members, I was fortunate enough to learn from their mistakes. In autocrossing, the guys at the track and having to help bolt and unbolt the stupid things, the resounding statement was pulleys don't do a darn thing. Maybe we can agree to disagree, but I just can't see how spending 50 to 100 bucks on a roughly 3% improvement could possibly be worth while.
 
Well...I'm going to try and have our LSE dynoed on Friday, March 11th. Balanced Performance Motorsports is offering a 3 pull deal on a DynoJet for $59.98. That's just too good of a deal to pass up. If I can swing it...I'll get it dynoed on the 11th...then try and upgrade the exhaust x-pipe and higher flowing mufflers the following week...then try and dyno it again. So...we should have a good idea what the x and mufflers will do for it.
 
steve

cdixon said:
My question is this. I've had K&N filters in every vehicle I've owned from 5.0 Mustangs to 4.0 Ranger 4x4 and I've not been able to notice any difference in MPG or power. Has anyone who has it on an LS V8 been able to notice any difference? I always found it kinda a pain to clean and re-oil the filters so if I'm not going to notice any difference I'll just stick with the regular air filter and change it every other oil change. Thanks.
Click to expand...

There has to be an increase in HP due to the fact that you are getting more cfm's through your intake = more HP. I ordered and installed an 80mm mass air intake kitand K&N fillter from Lincoln Motorsports and it made my 98 MarkVIII LSC scream! Then I ordered a Superchips tuner that completly turned my big Cobra lose!! All of it was worth every penny. If you have a Lincoln, call Geno at Lincoln Motorsports and he can hook you up. Get ready to hold on!
 
K&N FILTERS

Use your head man, More air, more hp. You may not be able to feel it but it makes it easier for any engine to run by supplying more air to the fuel mixture. Install a cold air intake with a bigger mass air unit and then re-tune it with a computer chip. Now! you will feel the difference you were looking for. If you have a Lincoln call Geno at Lincoln Motorsports, he can hook you up.
 
i have always heard that bigger MAFs dont work well on these engines. Has that changed since that pcm can be reflashed now?
 
eL eS said:
i have always heard that bigger MAFs dont work well on these engines. Has that changed since that pcm can be reflashed now?
Click to expand...


We've never been able to push the car outside of what the stock MAF and PCM can handle - yet.
 
I remember way back in the early days at llsoc someone was trying to design and larger MAF but it went over like a lead ballon.
 
I think the plumbing analogy made the most sense of all. If you've ever used a ball valve to shut off a water supply under pressure (as opposed to a "gate" valve), one can hear the turbulence in the pipe, regardless of flow diameter.
Now, if someone could help me get more "oomph" out of the 3.8 in my '93 Continental...
 
I just re-read the thread...back to the original question. My old 580 Case backhoe ('70 model) had an oilbath-type filter and it was a royal pain to service. The later models (580B,C,D,E,K,L) as well other related equipment went to paper filters simply because the technology/manufacturing processes had improved to the point where they did the job just as good or better. If you've ever noticed the dusty conditions construction and agricultural engines (gas and diesel) operate, the filters have got to be able to do the job without suffocatiing the engine. Of course, pre-cleaners are almost mandatory on these units, especially in agricultural use.
I'm still just a country-boy at heart. I'll take a "cathead" biscuit with some cured ham over a McMuffin any day of the week!
 
never heard of cathead biscuits but my grandma makes the best buttermilk biscuits with tomato gravy and potato gravy or you can just butter and jelly em'. She bakes em in a good ol cast iron skillet.
 
Stir up some molasses with some butter and "sop" 'em or poke a hole in 'em and pour in the molasses. Goooooood! Also, try some pear preserves when they come straight out of the oven, or bake 'em with a touch of cheese!
 
eL eS said:
never heard of cathead biscuits but my grandma makes the best buttermilk biscuits with tomato gravy and potato gravy or you can just butter and jelly em'. She bakes em in a good ol cast iron skillet.
Click to expand...


Mmmmmmm.. Biscuits :wave
 
Thats one way to calm a heated debate.

Bring out the food. :yourock:
 
kleetus said:
I tend to agree with the "clown"... I put a K&N on my 97 merq and noticed zero difference. I think a lot has to do with the amount of restriction on the head end side of the airbox. Mustangs were noted for this with that goofy air bladder thing that lived in the fender well. You took that out and put the K&N in, then the car ran better. In my 97 merq, I screwed up and didn't get the airbox back together right, and ended up leaking air around the two halves of the box. It cost me a MAF, but once I replace that, I cut a 4x6 hole in the bottom of the box, THEN it ran better, and at that point it didn't matter what filter was in it, K&N, Fram whatever.

You're probably wondering how I screwed up the airbox... sounds simple but I'm sure you noticed that once you open the damn thing, it's next to impossible to get it closed, and sealed without taking it out of the car. In my 97, it was snapped on the one side, but one of the little fingers in the corner of the box missed the receiving clip, and it allowed the top to separate a little so it would suck air across the top of the filter and not though it. I noticed more sound from WOT, so I knew something was up. It was winter, so I checked it out a day later and found salt and stuff sucked though the top of the filter and splattered against the MAF. Instant toasted MAF. It ran for a couple years like this, then it got so bad it would barely run. I did some research and answered all the questions that came up. Replaced the MAF, and it ran like new, at 120k miles. All the while the poor performance (but great mileage) was caused by the MAF which was out of cal for 3 years...

Moral of the story: Make sure that those stupid clips line up, even if you have to do it 3 or 4 times... I miss the old ones with the metal clips on all 4 sides, you knew it was sealed.
Click to expand...

Right on Kleetus, Good history to know. Haven't seen you on the site for a while. Yinz been ta Pixburg? lol, Lincolnlov
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Members online

No members online now.
Total: 102 (members: 0, guests: 102)
Back
Top