Longtube Headers anyone?

When would you buy headers?

  • Now

    Votes: 13 18.3%

  • within 1 year

    Votes: 37 52.1%

  • within 2 years

    Votes: 14 19.7%

  • 3 or more years out

    Votes: 7 9.9%
  • Total voters
    71
03? j/k I knew there were two diff. set ups, just wasn't sure on years. If you guys have ideas for exhaust options throw those in too. I figure nice stainless straight pipe, cross over section, tail pipe mufflers, mid mufflers if you want. These guys do lots of mustang systems including the most recent models. I like to use people familiar with our engines. High quality, good price. Thats what we're looking for right? Before I get ahead of myself, would everyone like the rest of the exhaust as optional parts too? Seems like at the very least a nice straight pipe system would really make things easier for us to start with.
 
stainless headers with jet hot coating. not really interested in the rest of the exhaust. going with genos set up. i like the way it sounds.
 
I'm still not sure how I feel about steel headers.... they better be thick, and will have to be ceramic coated... hmmmmmm
 
Aside from the coating helping to keep heat in the header I don't see much use in it over stainless steel. Even if it turns blue you can't see the headers once there installed in a Mark anyway. Oh and my coated headers also have rusted. Even with a warranty I ain't gonna be taking them back out to get redone.

I still think the stainless would be cheaper than coated in the long run.
 
I'm just nervous about steel due to the fact that my car has potential to be driven in the winter....
 
Stainless is a little heavier and often more brittle depending on grade. The quality of the welds and fillers used is actually more important regarding cracking. Coating SS is nice but also more expensive. I'd love SS ceramic coated headers, but I don't have $800+ to spend on headers. I could potentially have a full header to tailpipe system for the same price. A 16 ga steel ceramic coated (in/out) long tube header will last longer than most of us will have our Marks. I'm really not that concerned with a little surface rust a few years down the road on a motor that I won't ever really see the headers anyhow. I want performance, quality, and a good price. Thats what I have here. I just need to know who else wants these. We have until August to gather the funds. At least 20 people, maybe up to 25. The more the better. After the first run, they are willing to do smaller batches for people who want to purchase down the road. Although, if we don't have the first 20+, we'll never get this started. Just to catch everyone up; 16ga steel, polished ceramic coated in/out(guarenteed for 3 years), 1 5/8 dia., full length (4 into 1), all stock connnectors in place(egr,ect), perfect fit.
 
if they are going to be around 500 to 600 dollars im game. ill start setting the money aside this month.
 
If you guys want to make this happen, I need to know who is interested in this set up and also who is interested but would like a different set up. Hopefully the majority will like this one. Lets keep this moving forward.:cool:
 
I'm in for longtubes that will last and cost under $500. I don't care if they are coated or stainless or painted black or whatever, as long as they won't rust out on me.
 
So out of 30 people now only 3 want to do this? Ugghhh. :( Maybe they just forgot where the post is?:shifty: :confused:
 
I was talking to other people yesterday that have Kooks headers and they have yet to install them. Headers on an old OHV engine where an easier thing to do but on a Mark with that tight engine compartment :(

As I said I want to but I wont until I do my engine swap and it still looks like a nightmare to get the manifolds off the heads of my engine that is on a stand :shifty:
0403081431a.jpg
 
I just noticed that your box is in the spare tire well:D Don't have to worry about it rollin' around during the corner carving. Bet that thing hits pretty low huh?
 
Speed Demon said:
I just noticed that your box is in the spare tire well:D Don't have to worry about it rollin' around during the corner carving. Bet that thing hits pretty low huh?
Click to expand...
When it hits on some old school Bass music you think you just got a flat cause the floor is vibrating so hard :eek:

It's a sealed JL13W7 1.5 with a 1000watt amp driving it but I think I'm gonna throw a 2500watt at it and see what it will do :p

kustomizingkid said:
I removed both factory manifolds with the engine in the car...
Click to expand...

Your a better man then me I gotta say. Just looking at the ones on my engine stand make me not even want to try to do it in my car :(
 
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