My $400 LS Registry

Got exactly that.

Also got a lot more parts cleaner/degreaser so as I was waiting for the RH side to completely dry off, I figured I'd start moving stuff on the left side.

That's when I noticed the glob of RTV sticking out where you put the dab. These have been done before, I'm halfway considering not doing the drivers side. I was just doing them because a buddy gave me a free full set. All the rubber gaskets I pulled out of the passenger side seemed perfectly fine, not dry or rotted, not stiff, etc.

But even better news, I lost one of the bolts for the passenger side and CANNOT find it anywhere. I'm done working on it for the day. But I did get the cover on and all but one bolt in. (Just barely more than hand snugged, not actually torqued to spec until I find/get a new bolt. Assuming I'm gonna have to go to the junkyard tomorrow.

I also got the bolts for the coils and the coil covers. Those cover bolts are pretty damn small M5x12mm IIRC. I need to get some small washers for the coils though, the bolt head is damn tiny, I think a 5/16".
 
Better hope the lost bolt isn't somewhere in the engine...
 
joegr said:
Better hope the lost bolt isn't somewhere in the engine...
Click to expand...

I dropped one right down the timing cover and it snugged up against the chain. That wasn't fun. I needed a magnetic rod to pull it out. Could have been worse
 
No, I had each and every bolt in the cover when I pulled it off and over to my workbench. I triple checked that. But I moved the thing ten times before I realized the bolts come out. (With those retainer things, some of them seemed to not want to come out, I assumed they didnt come all the way out at first)

But if I can't find it, thats gonna make me overthink enough to take the damn thing back off and search in the engine. Im really praying I find it out near where I was cleaning it off with engine cleaner spray.
 
Boy the right light makes all the difference. Both my work light and the LED son my phone I was using is a flood beam, thought I saw every crevice when I looked 3-4 times last night. Took my big 4D LED Mag-Lite out there, focused the beam to a spot and found the bolt in 30 seconds. It had called down behind the headlight and when I tried to grab it it had fallen onto the washer fluid reservoir so I had to take the headlight off of course.

Oh well, everything is back together, all wires sprayed with cleaner and connected, all of the leaked out PS fluid is cleaned off now, K&N filter is clean, new plugs are gapped and installed.

Tomorrow I will grab some dielectric grease (I knew I forgot something on my last trip to AZ), and then Thursday make that trip to the junkyard, grab the coil covers and taillight and theoretically it should be done, just needing the new cats.

(Oil change and coolant flush as well)
 
Question about the coil covers. Any junkyard within reason (up to about an hour away from me) is useless. I call, they get short and pissy when I ask about a specific part or they have no idea what i'm talking about and tell me to just come out there and look. (Not driving an hour if I don't know for sure they had one!)

Are the coil covers the same for both sides? Im searching eBay (They're coming up used for $20ish, or brand new for about $30, and I don't even have to leave the house. The thing i'm seeing is, they don't list what side.
 
Yes, it's exactly the same one on both sides, and for both generations.
XW4Z-12025-AD

I see new on ebay from dealers for $19.99, but I don't think the shipping is free.
 
Been quiet for awhile, sorry. Busy couple of weeks.

I just logged on and read that thread from MISTERWHOLESALE or whatever. What the actual f*ck did I just try to read!?

Anyways, haven't done much on the LS, had shutdown for a week at work so I didn't get paid, and then this check coming up is my mortgage payment. I am going to order the coil covers finally though. I want to finish all the little "cheap" things I need to do like the taillight, coil covers, and clean up the undercarriage to find where the PS fluid is leaking. Problem is, its been 95+ degrees everyday, so im enjoying the ice cold AC inside, and working on some cooler radio projects that are a bit more fun to work on than the LS :)

Im ordering the covers now, found a used one for $20 shipped, or brand new ones for $23, ill probably go with two new ones. Still trying to track down a taillight for under $40.
 
Not sure if I mentioned, but I picked up bolts at my local hardware store, and they have extremely small heads, and I would have to add washers to them for them to work on the coils. (I bought them for the coils and coil covers)

Found a guy on eBay who sells them way cheaper than OEM ones (almost $4 each PLUS shipping!) with the washer on them, and a much bigger head (well, bigger, as in like the OEM's). Paid about $47 for both coil covers, and the pack of 8 bolts. Those should all be here by Saturday or Monday and then I can be "done" with the engine. I will also pick up some fresh oil and a filter and change that out. (Probably Mobil 1 or Castrol, full synth; whatever one AZ is having a sale on)

Just looked on eBay again, the cheapest taillight is $45 and has a chip at the bottom. Nice! Should've jumped on the ones I saw for $40 apparently.
 
Wow, these things are way smaller than I thought they would be (Dont know why I assumed they were so big)

My mailman came yesterday and I was waiting for him to get out of the truck to bring the package up (He gets pissy if I meet him out there. Not a friendly guy, so I let him do his thing) and he stopped at the mailbox, dropped some mail off and left. I was like wtf, it was out for delivery! I went out there, and it was actually in there. (I ended up buying the used one and a new one, to save a few bucks. The used one is spotless, won't look out of place or anything)

The new one came yesterday, used today. I ended up leaving work today and was going to grab some dielectric grease on my way home for the coils, but totally forgot. Decided just now to go out there, grab the covers and see how small the bolts I bought at the hardware store were, and what size washers I should grab when I go out. Turns out, the bolt heads are small, but plenty big enough to secure these covers down. Then I remembered, I have the coil bolts with corresponding washers coming in the mail but they won't be here until Monday, so no point in rushing out to get the grease if I can't use it yet.

Gonna go out tomorrow though and get some oil, new oil filter, and change that. (5W20, synthetic of course)

Couple of questions. This seems to be highly debated on EVERY forum i'm on. Do I use ATF or PS fluid in the power steering pump? Im gonna grab a couple quarts tomorrow and try to track this heavy leak down and fix that. That'll really help resale value, or one less problem for me if I decide to keep it and drive it myself :) (Considering trading my Explorer in, I need to crack down on my debt and get it paid off. That thing has a hefty payment because of my ass-credit. Would be nice to not have a car payment, AND have a nice ass car.

So what fluid do I use for the power steering, and are there any common issues/leaks in these power steering systems? I've never touched a power steering system, so this is gonna be a learning experience.

Just ordered a replacement taillight for the passenger side. A member on here PM'ed me offering me one, though I would've loved the money to go to his pocket vs. some random eBay'er, it was just financially smarter for me to order one. He was about an hour away, and wanted $40, which is what I picked one up on eBay for. (Well, like $37)
 
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Mercon V only in the power steering reservoir. Your owner's manual even says so. I'm not sure why there would be debate on it.
 
The LS tail light business is definitely a lucrative one for sure.

pull yard heist, two for $19.95, list on eBay for 40+ per side. Easy paper.
 
joegr said:
Mercon V only in the power steering reservoir. Your owner's manual even says so. I'm not sure why there would be debate on it.
Click to expand...

This may be the only forum that there's not a debate on then. (At least for every car I've ever owned) ATF is is

BigRigLS said:
The LS tail light business is definitely a lucrative one for sure.
pull yard heist, two for $19.95, list on eBay for 40+ per side. Easy paper.
Click to expand...

You aren't kidding! Problem with that get rich quick scheme is that all the yards around me also wanted $40 PER. That's why I opted for eBay stuff conveniently shipped to my door.
 
U-Pull-It yards, not auto recyclers.
 
Might be a dumb question, but whats a recycle yard? All the places "near" me are you-pull-its. Theres one that gets the part for you though, they don't let you out in the yard. Is that a recycler? (Funny thing is, they have just about identical prices to the self serve yards) I was looking for a power black leather interior for my Explorer, they had one and wanted the same price as this other shop that had the stuff, but they would pull it and have it up front for me. Was gonna go with them until they realized their inventory was wrong and they didn't have that vehicle anymore.


---------------------------

LS Update:
Heading out to AutoZone now to grab some oil, Mercon V and a bunch more cans of degreaser to clean the undercarriage of all the caked on power steering fluid.
 
yeah that definition is about spot on.

Auto recyclers (at least around here) pick up accident-ed newer model cars at actions or donation jobs from insurances.
Wait until the right blow Joe comes along and sell them a part somewhat discounted compared to OEM dealer invoices.

As apposed to a U-Pull-It yard which takes in any car for around 250-400 and allowes the public to wander it's lot (waiver signed) with tool bags in tow.
Provides wheel barrows and carts to haul your heist to the check out counter where a predetermined price listing gets you out the door quickly as all parts no matter brand/model/color is equal in cost.


I called a local Auto recycler about a rear LCA .... Ching ching $$$$ 175 best price. (yeah you can keep that one)
I visited a Pull-yard and spotted some nice fresh looking LCA's and walked out the door with only the one for $29.95

CDN prices

That's the diff.

Same place I keep on grabbing lenses from when I see them
headlight set = 29.95 /pair
tail lamp set = 19.95 /pair

They clean up real nice with a little effort. Like new OEM replacements, easy flip.

I've got a bit of an advantage as one near me posts their inventory online in real time of vehicle arrivals.
 
Gotcha, thats the way to go then. The one I mentioned though had a normal yard, and (from what I priced out - very average pricing), they just didn't let you go in the yard. Not sure if we even have the recycle yards around here, but hey, to each their own, if you want to pay that much lol.

So, I got the oil, dielectric grease, ATF fluid, etc. I got home and wanted to get the coils on, coil covers on and fire it up to see what I was working with before giving it a $50 synthetic oil change. (It was running rough as sh*t on those old coils my buddy gave me. I was 95% sure it was just the coils not making contact, or being bad, but it ran which is what I wanted to know back then)

I unlocked it, the battery barely unlocked the doors, so I knew I wasn't going to be starting it. Grabbed my HUGE marine battery from my cooler build, hooked the jumper cables up to it, waited about 5-10 minutes and she fired right up. Started so good, unlike before how it kind of choked while starting because it wasnt running on all 8.

Idles smooth as glass, and even smoothly revved up to the 3k limiter.

I let it idle for a good 10 minutes or so, everything was good. No smoke, no overheating, no funky smells (aside from the huge amounts of raw gas). I took it around the block twice, and on my way back up my street, it started to overheat. No biggie, I coasted and idled it back into my garage. One thing I noticed though, was the fan wasn't on. I know it works because I heard it working one of the first few times I had started it. I hooked my battery charger up, (10a smart charger) and let it charge for around 20 minutes, fired it up again and the fan was going for sure. (I turned the AC on this time which should make the fan come on, and it did). Idling - it wouldn't overheat. It only started climbing (even with AC on) when I held the throttle around 2-3k RPMs)

Gonna go to work and tomorrow go out and check coolant level, hoses, etc.


----------------------------
Power steering update:

Filled the reservoir up to MAX with Mercon-V, could hear the pump instantly start whining as if there was air in it. Turned the wheel lock-to-lock 8 or 9 times, whine was gone, and im not seeing fluid leak. Drove it probably I would guess at least a mile maybe a bit less through my neighborhood doing laps, and the steering was great. No wobbles, fighting, jerking, etc. SO smooth.

-------------------------
God this car has so much power. Im used to driving my 4.0 SLOW AS CAN BE Explorer, which is like a brick on wheels. This LS felt so nice.

Im strongly considering trading my Explorer back in, and driving the LS for awhile. No car payment, ill keep PLPD on it, and be saving a huge chunk of money every month, enough to aggressively pay off some debt im taking care of. I really really like this car!
 
Did I mention how much I love Fords plastic parts on an engine?
 
I don't mind the cooling system overhaul, but st that point I'm just about positive I'll be keeping the car as my DD and getting rid of my Explorer.
 
Working alot of Sundays coming up, so the $500 will be a kick in the bucket. Really anxious to get this car on the road now.

Just for sh*ts and giggles, once I get cats on, the cooling system overhauled, what do you think my next issue will be? :D

Im gonna go ahead and say engine and drivetrain should be sound, but it'll be suspension components.
 
Just went out in the garage and messed with the LS. Brought a jug of distilled water out there with me.

Popped the engine cover off and opened up the cap over the tstat. Couldn't see any fluid. Started pouring, had probably 1/3rd of the jug in there then I massaged the upper rad hose which felt nearly empty. Long story short I got about 80% of the gallon of water in the system.

Started it up, turned the defrost on, put it at 90 degrees, (yesterday I noticed I didn't have heat when I turned it to 90 in attempt to slow the overheating down as I coasted into my driveway) and it was cold. (Engine was just started though)

Within I'd say 60 seconds I had heat. Hot heat. I turned the bleeder valve open and some air came out but then I had a steady stream of fluid.

I am still not set on saying I don't need the cooling system overhaul but I do think my overheating issue was the lack of coolant. I'm looking at all the "visible" cooling hoses and components and I'm not seeing any dried up coolant or any signs of leaks. It looks as if this stuff has been replaced, hoses are a nice deep black instead of lighter black, plastic all looks dark black as well.

I don't want to drive this thing around everyday, someone's eventually gonna call the cops so I'll wait to take it around the block for a couple of days.

Oh, next issue? Already there. DCCV(?) Drivers side AC blows ice cold, passenger side isn't nearly as cold.
 
Coolant isn't consumed. It leaked out somewhere. Read some of the threads on here. Many of the posters start out saying they are certain there are no leaks...

In your case, it sounds more likely to be low refrigerant.
 
Yeah, I'm definitely not saying there isn't an issue somewhere. There has to be, but I'm just curious and anxious to get it out on the road again and see what happens. Maybe PO did a half-assed coolant change and didn't replace enough, maybe they drained some out for another purpose, I don't know. Doubt it, but there are some oddballs out there.

As for the AC, I think you're right. Read a few threads where members were reporting the same thing, and now that I mention it, the drivers side was COLD, but nowhere close to how cold it should be.

I remember when I first started the car when it was only running on 6 or 7 cylinders, and I turned the AC on, both sides were pretty cold, but there was definitely a difference between the driver and pass side.

I appreciate all your help so far. Wouldn't be as far as I am without you guys. (Or maybe I would have it running but I'd be running around in circles trying to figure these other issues out lol)

I feel like I have homework, thinking about how tedious it's gonna be to find and get all of those cooling system parts together in one place.

Any recommended sites to order from?
 
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