My $400 LS Registry

My drivers side door handle feels funky too. Like you have to really yank it to open the door, whereas the other handles work with just a normal pull, if that makes sense? Not really sure how to describe this one, but it bugs me. Works fine, but bugs me.
 
I would figure out what the problem is before the "really having to yank on it" turns it into a much worse problem. I would pull it apart and check all of the linkage.
 
I don't know what sort of system the LS uses but if it's the tried and true cable system Ford was fond of then that typically means the cable is stretched out and pretty soon that handle is going to stop opening the door at all.
 
Yeah, thats what I was assuming. The other doors open effortlessly, like halfway through the pull of the handle. The driver door has to be pulled all the way, and with a bit of force. Not bad or hard, more of an annoyance, but I could definitely see how the cable or linkages could snap.

Is a cable replacement gonna be ridiculously hard? Both handles do the same thing as far as I remember.

I just popped the seat filters off, the passenger side looked pretty clean, but the drivers side was filthy. Blowing 80 PSI through it with my compressor, and I could barely feel any airflow behind it. Just gave them both a good wash in the sink, and they look clean and white now. Should make the heated/cooled seats work much better.
 
So I sprayed some white lithium grease into the door handle, and in the latch. Door is working nearly perfect now, no more hard yanks to open it.
 
you should play the lottery.

of the four ford's Ive had with 6 disc indash players, all four of them had broke before any of them hit 100k.

I guess ill play the lottery too. My disc changer worked in my 2000 before I swapped out to after market double din.
 
I guess ill play the lottery too. My disc changer worked in my 2000 before I swapped out to after market double din.

When i bought my 04 the cd changer was bad.
tried the ebay deal guy selling NOS units,,went through TWO !
sent em back,still no cd changer.
 
When i bought my 04 the cd changer was bad.
tried the ebay deal guy selling NOS units,,went through TWO !
sent em back,still no cd changer.

I had mine replaced under warranty while the car was still fairly new. The replacement failed just after the factory warranty ended. I fixed it after that and it worked till sometime after I removed it. Sadly, it had failed again by the time you got it.
 
I guess ill play the lottery too. My disc changer worked in my 2000 before I swapped out to after market double din.

I know... Never had a problem in the 4 LSes we've had. The one in our remaining '06 still works like a charm...
 
both of my LS's CD players failed, both the one in my dads ranger and his F150 had failed. I think the only one my family's that hasn't failed is the wife's escape.
 
I ordered my plugs, got a hell of a deal on RockAuto, i'm about to order the coils today. Found a set of all 3 replacement, bolt on cats for about $250 shipped. Won't be able to order those right now, gonna be on shut-down at work for a week, unpaid of course.

But I will be scrubbing this thing from top to bottom on the inside, getting it looking new again. Tons of pictures to follow when I do.
 
word of warning, if you go with non OEM cats, there is an extremely high chance of the CEL coming/straying on. there have been a lot of guys that tried different brands and very few worked (well enough for the light to stay off)
 
That's a bummer, but oh well. I'm not paying the insane price for OEM cats. Thanks for the heads up though. Any idea why?/what code it throws?
 
The downstream O2 sensors only do one thing and that's tattle on you when your catalytic converters are no longer scrubbing the legal minimum of pollutants from the exhaust gases. I imagine they are calibrated to such a degree that only the strictest catalytic converters scrub enough out to keep them happy.

Of course the solution there would be to buy dummy downstream O2 sensors and calibrate them until the CEL goes off. If you have to pass emissions however that probably won't work.
 
No emissions or inspections here in Michigan.

I spent the last hour or so out cleaning the interior. Was gonna start tackling the VCG but just lost interest in wrenching today, lol.

She cleans up really nice. Gonna shampoo the front carpet today or tomorrow still but just a decent detail did it wonders.
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Drove her around the block too, the looks when people hear an ungodly loud vehicle coming and then see this nice, clean Lincoln LS is hilarious.

Plugged in my OBD2 adapter for my iPad and pulled the codes. I had to buy the $9 2003 Ford pack of course, but oh well.
N7rCctm.jpg

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Seems like most/all of those codes are related to the cats being off. (And no O2's currently) This was the pic before I bought the pack. I think one or two of those "??" codes were from when I set the alarm off and it disabled the ignition or whatever when the battery was really low.
 
Some more pics:

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Just lubed up all the door handles/latches, the trunk and gas cap door latches, and both the trunklid and driver door keyhole. All mechanisms working flawlessly. Both keyholes were a bit stiff and resistant to turn, but work great now. Just learned you can roll the windows down and up with the key hole as well.
 
Working on these valve cover gaskets boy these are fun to get off.

Got the passenger side off, done for the night not even touching the drivers side yet that one looks like it'll be even harder to get to.
 
If all else fails use a stick of dynamite. It usually takes care of all problems quickly. :p
 
Working on these valve cover gaskets boy these are fun to get off.

Got the passenger side off, done for the night not even touching the drivers side yet that one looks like it'll be even harder to get to.

Getting the dipstick back in is probably the worst part of the driver's side.
 
Getting the dipstick back in is probably the worst part of the driver's side.

Plus there's all kinds of crud in the spot you stick the tube back into, pushing dirt and sand into the oil and probably mucking up the dipstick seal... I've cut the flange so it doesn't have to be removed now, just unhooked from the bolt and pushed aside
 
Have to clean all that off before you start. That you can't see or feel any of it makes it difficult to know if you have succeeded.
 
I'm about to go finish it now. Feeling lazy today not wanting to do much but watch tv. Gloomy and rainy outside, but I found a write up with pictures saying that you have to use the RTV stuff along the top and bottom, is that true? If it is I'll have to run to Autozone and pick some up.
 
... you have to use the RTV stuff along the top and bottom, is that true? If it is I'll have to run to Autozone and pick some up.

No. Don't do that. It won't help and it will just make next time really difficult. At the front on each, there are two spots where the timing covers meet the cylinder heads. You need to put a drop of "RTV stuff" on each of those spots (engine side only).

http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x31007.htm~gen~ref.htm
http://deneau.info/ls/s6x~us~en~file=s6x31008.htm~gen~ref.htm
 
Any preferred RTV? Never used the stuff before and if I remember correctly there's quite a few different kinds.
 
You want the high-temperature, oil resistant variety. Something like Permatex Ultra Black.
 

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