Running warm, tried to burp

Sapperfire said:
I suppose you trading busted Trac Locs for suspension parts that you couldn't afford is OK.
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dude, have you fried your freekin memory with dope? YOU APPROACHED ME offering susp parts, I had NO INTEREST in your used junk! You came to me wanting a deal- then offered your 'like new' (recently welded) susp parts. WTF is wrong w/ you?
The only thing I can't afford is dealing with crooks like you and Ed Lezon (well, I can't afford a BMW 7 series either
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-re the trac-loc you asked for, ship it back to me and I'll get you a refund, just as quickly as you sent my parts (@ 4 weeks)....
 
96_Lincoln_LSC said:
thought I was the only one...
Bless Barsleak copper. Sofar that is the best invention to me.. have to wait to pull motor and replace head gaskets. yea I know if im pulling a motor why replace gaskets, because a junk motor you never know what your gonna get.
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I just tried K&W Block seal after using Blue Devil mechanic edition the first time. The Blue Devil ALMOST sealed it. Over time the leak became gradually worse. I ended up with back pressure into the cooling system that was very slight at first but eventually the reservoir was overfilling all the time and on top of that I had to release the pressure or leave the cap almost loose to avoid coolant being forced into the cylinder(s) whenever it sat for an extended period of time.

This time I tried the Block Seal and followed the directions to the letter. I did BETTER than the directions by flushing every speck of coolant out. It did NOTHING. If anything the problem may no have progressed even worse. Still no overheating but the temp gets up to the top of the R and then I have to shut the A/C off. If I drove it far enough I would end up driving with the heat on in the summer and even then eventually I think it might go over the top. 25 miles back and forth to work is pretty uneventful though. Why not put miles on this engine? It saves miles on my other Mark. If the coolant loss becomes to great though, I'm going to waste too much money on coolant.

I think the end is near...
 
96_Lincoln_LSC said:
thought I was the only one...
Bless Barsleak copper. Sofar that is the best invention to me.. have to wait to pull motor and replace head gaskets. yea I know if im pulling a motor why replace gaskets, because a junk motor you never know what your gonna get.
Click to expand...

Just remember that both the heads and the block might be warped. It would be a lot of work to replace the gaskets and then find out they don't seal anyway. Mine was overheated badly by the previous owner.
 
96_Lincoln_LSC said:
thought I was the only one...
Bless Barsleak copper. Sofar that is the best invention to me.. have to wait to pull motor and replace head gaskets. yea I know if im pulling a motor why replace gaskets, because a junk motor you never know what your gonna get.
Click to expand...
I never had much faith in head gasket in a can.
Your not alone I'm 99.9% sure I also have a head gasket issue.
A high mile b head engine is not a option.
 
J?? lol
All the symptoms of a leaking gasket, it has them all.
Pretty sure its getting parked or striped, or both.
Still kicking the can on what approach to take.
I will park it and think about it.
Its only saving grace is its a FL car and I live in the rust belt.
 
back to this task; after work today, jacked it up
P8210614.JPG
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removed the tstat (then ran of time)
P8210619.jpg
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I LOVE SPRING CLAMPS!
after work tomorrow I'll get some regular hose clamps and put it back together
there's just one o-ring to replace right?the orange felpro on the bottom of the tstat?
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the one in there looked just like the new RT1085, so I dunno if putting a new oem tstat in will change anything

P8210614.JPG


P8210619.jpg
 
dumb question #519:
can I put my old and new tstats in a pot of hot water, bring it to a boil and compare when/if they open? i.e. maybe my old tstat is not the problem?
 
thanks C
-my dad, who used to work on moonshiner's cars outside Charlotte NC back in the 40's- 50's, suggested this, so I kinda knew it wasn't too dumb of a question :p
 
both tstats work the same under heated-boiling water; they both open fully well before boiling (212?) although I think the new part closes more quickly so I'll put in in anyways- cant' hurt
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what next to resolve the running too warm? flush radi I guess..I'm not 100% sure my fan switches speeds like it should
 
How old is the radiator? I have a brand new one that was supposed to go in the 93. I got it super cheap from Elliott. I obviously won't need it. Not sure about the shipping but you can have it for what I paid.
 
thx MG8
about 4 years ago and 50k miles ago I paid a mech who I later found out was crooked to replace it; ($450!!) so it's at least 50k, maybe 185k. Not sure he replaced it
- It wasn't leaking, it was doing the same thing it is now; getting up to and staying above 'M" to 'O' but never overheating. I may go ahead an r/r the radi...pm me a number, zip 30102
 
got it back together and running today, so far it seems like it's cooler than before,b ut definitely still running warmer than my white one....on this brown car I've had P1537 for a long time, so the pass side imrc is stuck open
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would having those imrc valves on bank one open affect engine temp?
 
two 96 marks, the white one and the brown one, car a) and car b):----
car a) recent radi, recent MC t-stat, burped.....temp needle stays around the 'A' on the gauge
car b) : radi is allegedly around 50k miles and 6 years old, recent MC t-stat, recent prestone flush, burped, under same conditions this car's temp needle stays around 'M' and often up to 'O'...i say allegedly b/c I paid someone to do the job, i did not do it myself; I may pull it out and find it's oem 1996 :mad: (they robbed me on some other work paid not performed)
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both heater core hoses warm to the same temp shortly after starting engine on both cars
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any ideas why car b) runs closer to overheating?
 
Because b) has a blown head gasket?:eek: Just kidding! I doubt if that's the case.

I think the radiator is suspect. Even if it has been replaced, I thought I had read that there are some junk replacement radiators out there.

There is something I find strange. I would still think the temp would be on "A" for awhile once the thermostat opened, even with a partially clogged radiator. I would expect to see the climb under load or in stop and go traffic. This would also be true if the fan wasn't coming on when it should.

But you seem to be saying that the temp is always higher than "A". That suggests that the thermostat is not opening at the same temp. Like maybe one t-stat is a 188 and the other is...the wrong Motorcraft thermostat. RT-1085 is right, RT-1144 is wrong.
 
burping car b) (parked-no load) it takes a long time for the tstat to open; I've been told the fan doesn't come on until around 230-240deg?
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yea, once I'm driving, it gets up to and stays at or above "M" @200deg? the entire drive...car a) basically NEVER goes north of the 'A'...it's only got about 6kmiles on the new radi
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i check the auction site several times/week looking for an all aluminum radi...hate plastic tanks
 
burping car b) (parked-no load) it takes a long time for the tstat to open; I've been told the fan doesn't come on until around 230-240deg?
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yea, once I'm driving, it gets up to and stays at or above "M" @200deg? the entire drive...car a) basically NEVER goes north of the 'A'...it's only got about 6kmiles on the new radi
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i check the auction site several times/week looking for an all aluminum radi...hate plastic tanks
 
Fan comes on right away if the A/C is on Max. I'm not sure on other A/C settings. Are you 100% sure it has the right thermostat? Just because it's Motorcraft doesn't automatically make it right.

You know what? Hook this bitch up to live data and watch the coolant temp. If it doesn't level off around 190, at least for awhile, then the thermostat isn't opening at the right temp.
 
it's an RT1085, I compared the new one to the 'old' one prior to installing, in a pot of hot-boiling water...it opens, they both opened, it's installed correctly; I knew before putting the tstat in that prolly wasn't the problem...i tried live data awhile back but my xcal2 needs XP software, i only have 7 on my pc
 
I would think hanging around the "M or A" would be good and cool! I wouldn't worry about it. Your still in the middle to lower half of the "NORMAL" zone.
 
dnsherrill said:
it's an RT1085, I compared the new one to the 'old' one prior to installing, in a pot of hot-boiling water...it opens, they both opened, it's installed correctly; I knew before putting the tstat in that prolly wasn't the problem...i tried live data awhile back but my xcal2 needs XP software, i only have 7 on my pc
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As I am a network Engineer for a hospital, I work with both OS's.. in win 7 you can install and run software in compatibility mode making the software think its running in XP mode.. this will allow you to run this software on your win 7 enviroment.. find the shortcut it made on your desktop, see what file it opens.. locate same file in explorer, then right click and choose properties. under that will be a compatibility tab. choose XP Service pack 3 compatibility mode and then apply. next time you click the short cut it should work just fine.

Goes for any people who need to run xp software on your win vista/Win7 Win8 pc's
 
sprocket said:
You know what? Hook this bitch up to live data and watch the coolant temp. If it doesn't level off around 190, at least for awhile, then the thermostat isn't opening at the right temp.
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Bingo. The stock gauges are both inconsistent from car to car and provide little useful information. Read the temp that the ECT is seeing.


dnsherrill said:
...i tried live data awhile back but my xcal2 needs XP software, i only have 7 on my pc
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Both of my XCal2's cooperate with my Win7 laptop without a hiccup. Regardless, there's no need to even attach the XCal2 to your PC in this instance.
 
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