What did you do to your LS today?
- Thread starter RigsLS
- Start date
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
I rented a Charger that had that push button on it, touch the button the car starts. Hold the button a few seconds and the car starts. If I get one next year I'll probably see what needs to be done to stick a regular key in it so I can have accessory only power.
On every car I used with a push button: button without brake pedal=accessory, button with depressed brake pedal=starts.
1LoudLS
Dedicated LVC Member
the brake is the difference
press the button once (without standing on the brake) to turn on ACC
press the button twice (without standing on the brake) to turn on IGN/RUN
a third press will shut it back off
holding the brake down and pushing the button starts the car
the older chryslers like the jeep GC that used the older mercedes keys, you could actually remove the start/stop button, and stick the nub side of the key in to the hole and turn the manual ignition switch.
the new keyless-to-go systems do not have a manual overide, the emergency key that slides out of the fob will only work on the outside key cylinders to give access in and the glove box. there is no key slot for the ignition. if your are ever somewhere and the keys batteries die, you are supposed to use the key itself to press the start/stop button (older school short range transponder key chip exactly like the LS uses, still using the push to start system to start the car...)
chris2523
93 Mark VIII
the sonata i drove once was that way as well.
button, no brake, was accessory.
button, no brake, was accessory.
Blk04LS
Well-Known LVC Member
Same here, any work that involved the doors being open for extended periods resulted in a dead/to low to start, battery. Yet it tested "good" every time it was serviced. Replaced it anyway and the problem was solved.
Blk04LS
Well-Known LVC Member
Nice, would love to hear your opinions on it and perhaps a follow up on it in a couple months!
^This... at least according to the auction page linked in the post/quote above.
*From the Ebay Auction Page*
Deaconblue
Well-Known LVC Member
Granted it is pretty cool, but color me old school since I think using the key would be simpler and easier.
RigsLS
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Since last weekend ....
Cleaned up the front, deleted the block heater plug-in outlet, sprayed some black paint around before adding the freshly reconditioned bumper cover.
McLaren Grille installed, both front wheels on.
Covered some parts, primarily the DEEZA end links with some clear,
repositioned the grease nipples on the MOOG sway bar end links.
Brought all my lenses over to the shop for tinting.
1 set of front headlamps,
1 set of all red outers,
1 set of two-toned outers,
1 set of all red inners.
Sacrificed another all red outer for a mounting post for my two-tone outer.
Almost got it of the stands today but .... life got in the way again!
RigsLS
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Fn thing! Hole in my wallet is what it is. Thanks on the clean! 11mths on jack stands will do that to an LS, whole underside has been cleaned up and undercoated, lots of new suspension parts, all new R1 Concept rotors w/ Akebono Euro pads. Trunk lid corrosion cleaned up, LSE spoiler repaired, surround color matched, front bumper cover plate holes filled in, marker lights deleted, tow hook cover molded in, 2 sets of grilles, all repainted to perfect match.
Waiting on front and rear lens tinting, then time to kick her off the stand ... to the shop for front shock re&re, 4-wheel align. remove exhaust tips w/ a little rework on the back portion of the exhaust. Burn up a tank of old fuel, refill with fresh fuel w/ stabilizer and back into the garage she goes.
upcoming winter project: Interior mods, sunroof repair, top mount brake light mod, gauges and audio system.
after that: a bullet to the head!
timing chain w/ tensioners and transmission I'm sure also some point in time.
Waiting on front and rear lens tinting, then time to kick her off the stand ... to the shop for front shock re&re, 4-wheel align. remove exhaust tips w/ a little rework on the back portion of the exhaust. Burn up a tank of old fuel, refill with fresh fuel w/ stabilizer and back into the garage she goes.
upcoming winter project: Interior mods, sunroof repair, top mount brake light mod, gauges and audio system.
after that: a bullet to the head!
timing chain w/ tensioners and transmission I'm sure also some point in time.
MONTE 02 LS
Active LVC Member
October 3rd I had Sway bar bushings, End links and Inspection sticker done. Yesterday I installed the Spectre MAF adapter and K&N open air filter.
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
The clockspring may have been my easiest LS job ever. But there's something unsettling about holding that airbag/controlled explosive in your hands
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
I also had another issue solved with the clockspring, which I was blaming something else. I installed the PAC-SWI-RC interface with the new radio and I kept having trouble changing tracks through the steering wheel because it was usually unresponsive. If I held it, it fast forwarded fine*. Well, now it changes tracks immediately and starts fast forwarding sooner. Here I was blaming the interface because media and mute worked fine
So far so good
I also changed out the steering wheel button LEDs to orange. I'm really liking the direction the lights are going. So far I've converted the radio, AC, info, headlight switch, and dimmer wheel. One piece at a time (or a few). I also made the AC button blue. It's the little things
So far so good
I also changed out the steering wheel button LEDs to orange. I'm really liking the direction the lights are going. So far I've converted the radio, AC, info, headlight switch, and dimmer wheel. One piece at a time (or a few). I also made the AC button blue. It's the little things
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Fixed the broken center console lid. I did the thing where you drill out the center of the latch where the OEM used to use a plastic pin, then replace it with a metal pin, and it worked well. It opens and closes like new now. Damned hard drilling a straight line through plastic without a drill press though. Hand drilled by spinning the drill bit with my fingers until I had a pilot hole started, then was able to get it almost straight through. Drilled through the other side, and between the two I was able to get a hole straight enough to get the pin through. Anyone else wants to do it, find a drill press. After doing it without one, it would be worth the effort to find one. For a metal pin, I didn't have a nail like was used in the one guy's job so I used part of a double pronged curtain hook.
Also discovered that the pin that holds the door hinge together doesn't have any sort of retainer, because in addition to fixing the latch I also had to put the main hinge back together.
Also changed the oil, which I do once every 6 months on this car since it gets synth.
Finally, been having a problem where the degas has been boiling. Found that I've had white powder around the rad hoses. Tightened them down and rebled the system. I like the screw clamps, but they do need to be retightened after a few heat cycles and I realized I never did that after I redid my cooling system last year. Seems to be OK now.
Also discovered that the pin that holds the door hinge together doesn't have any sort of retainer, because in addition to fixing the latch I also had to put the main hinge back together.
Also changed the oil, which I do once every 6 months on this car since it gets synth.
Finally, been having a problem where the degas has been boiling. Found that I've had white powder around the rad hoses. Tightened them down and rebled the system. I like the screw clamps, but they do need to be retightened after a few heat cycles and I realized I never did that after I redid my cooling system last year. Seems to be OK now.
Blk04LS
Well-Known LVC Member
Right on, it's been around 2yrs since I fixed my latch and when I took it apart for the pic it still felt solid so it seems a permanent fix. Hopefully you won't have to deal with it again 
And that's great about your cooling problems, a no cost easy fix is always the best kind! :Beer
And that's great about your cooling problems, a no cost easy fix is always the best kind! :Beer
FDR
Dedicated LVC Member
To drill on an angle, I drill a shallow pilotnhole perpendicular to the surface. Then I a start drilling with the larger bit perpendicular to get a larger shallow pilot hole, then just turn the drill to the angle you need
RigsLS
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Over the weekend I had the pleasures of first hand trying out them ninja cup holders on an 00 sitting in the local u-pull-it yard.
YEAH, glad I don't own those in my LS, it was rather goofy.
Scored two backup lamps that are in much better shape then the two sets I had already, for some reason the inside silver outer edge was not deteriorated on these like mine are.
(pics to follow, LS4ME!!!!)
Also snapped of an emblem in good shape, after undoing all the nuts on the rear surround, wasn't going to purchase yet another rear plate surround.
front emblem on the grille was in rough shape, I left it for other scavengers.
I hope to clean up and repaint some (several) emblems like member Manoli did. Still want to end up with a black star with gun metal backfill.
YEAH, glad I don't own those in my LS, it was rather goofy.
Scored two backup lamps that are in much better shape then the two sets I had already, for some reason the inside silver outer edge was not deteriorated on these like mine are.
(pics to follow, LS4ME!!!!)
Also snapped of an emblem in good shape, after undoing all the nuts on the rear surround, wasn't going to purchase yet another rear plate surround.
front emblem on the grille was in rough shape, I left it for other scavengers.
I hope to clean up and repaint some (several) emblems like member Manoli did. Still want to end up with a black star with gun metal backfill.
Telco
Dedicated LVC Member
Right on, it's been around 2yrs since I fixed my latch and when I took it apart for the pic it still felt solid so it seems a permanent fix. Hopefully you won't have to deal with it again
Hope not. I will say this about the fix though, that lid has never felt so solid as it does now. That pin should have been metal from the factory. I would even go so far as to say that replacing this molded plastic pin with a metal pin should be done as a pre-emptive project. For anyone who wants to see a detailed procedure, Rancho50 did a very nice, detailed how-to.
Needs to go straight in though. I was amazed at how soft and pliant the plastic was for this latch. The razor blade trimmed it was too easily, took almost no pressure at all. The proper plastic should have offered SOME resistance to the razor blade. It wasn't even a sharp one, it's one I've been using the last few months to trim stuff in the garage and is just about ready for replacement. Good tip on how to start a hole on an angle though, I will remember it. Starting a hole at an angle is always a major PITA.
That back hinge pin seems to creep to the driver's side with everyone (maybe). I have pushed/pulled mine back into alignment twice in 4 years.
I also now have a drill press and will attempt the latch repair soon. I guess I need a caliper so I can measure the pin (nail) and drill bit. It does make me nervous as to how I will align up the latch and drill bit to align the hole right. More tools and creating some sort of jig may be needed. So much set up, but so much that could go wrong otherwise. I also want to drill all teh way through like Ranchero showed. Wish me luck.
Well, it finally happened. I lost the upper radiator hose assy. The plastic cracked right down the middle and dumped the coolant then went to reduced power mode. I didn't get far before engine shut down. I filled it with 2.5 gallons of distilled water. Made it within 2 miles before the water ran out again and it went in to limp home mode again. The engine shutdown 1/8 mile from the house so I put in another 1.5 gal of water and sped to the house. I ordered the part from the local Ford dealer yesterday and getting ready to pick it up now. $73 and change. Should be an easy job and I might pick up the lower Assyrian next week before I spend money on that expensive coolant again. I suspect that would be the next part to go.
joegr
Dedicated LVC Member
You can't say you didn't have fair warning.
Even with failsafe cooling, I wouldn't want the engine to hit shutdown temp, ever.
Well with these new cars , the failsafe cooling keeps the engine from being damaged . I know that from driving trucks for over 10 years . That's one thing Ford did correctly it was a little bit of an overkill . Remember most of the cooling is done by the oil anyway .