.....I've had three regulators fail now........
What brand are you using??? I would go with a different manufacturer!! Three failures is a bit ridiculous, IMHO!
.....I've had three regulators fail now........
What brand are you using??? I would go with a different manufacturer!! Three failures is a bit ridiculous, IMHO!
... I had the doors open for about an hour. When I was done the car wouldn't start. ...
They weren't the same window. Driver rear, then driver front, then passenger front. So far as I know the two driver sides were the factory ones, the passenger front had been replaced once before from the debris in the door.
Spoke too soon. I think I just didn't drive it long enough for the system to register the issue because it comes on about 5-10 minutes after starting the car. Down the rabbit hole I go...You can also see, some members including myself, were able to correct the 3-2 issue by means of fixing the brittle wires on that connector but others have had to replace the clock spring. LSFrank, mentioned it went away went he reposition the steering wheel, which further tells me he will not be able to fix this at the connector below the drivers seat.
(relax, I'm going after the airbag first)
Why? Have you ever been in an accident where an airbag would have saved your bacon? Don't wear a seat belt? Fix the engine problem before it turns into an even bigger problem!!!!!
I have been in three serious car totalling accidents setting off air bags, just walked right away with a few glass scratches and a little sore the next day every time, so to me, they are doing their job... when it comes to potentially life SAVING items (which could be yours or worse somebody elses) I think I will try to keep them functional.
The biggest issue is reduced fuel economy
The biggest issue is the rich fuel/air mix burning the cats out. Luckily, all it will require is either a new O2 sensor or a little wiring work, most likely a new O2 sensor. You can verify this by swapping the left and the right front sensors. If the problem follows you need a new sensor, if it doesn't you need to find the open in the wiring.
...I only checked the H+ wire with the ignition off before. It's supposed to be always hot, but apparently isn't. ...
Says who? My wiring diagrams show it as "hot in start or run." Also, I think that the sensor may need to be plugged in for the PCM to turn the ground on, on the negative heater wire.
As it turns out, the wiring is fine. I only checked the H+ wire with the ignition off before. It's supposed to be always hot, but apparently isn't. With the ignition on, it gives 12v. The PCM, on the other hand, is sending the same voltage; ground with ignition off, positive with ignition on. This is done measuring the harness with the sensor unplugged, so I'm not just reading voltage across the heater element. O2 plug to PCM pin has perfect continuity. I think it's time to just take the car to the dealer/work. If I need a PCM, I'll need it to be flashed for PATS.
Really not finish today took more than a month testing this system before sharing it and so far so good.
Auto Remote Passive Keyless Entry PKE Car + Button Start Smart System
http://r.ebay.com/OeTBLO
View attachment 828470103
Really not finish today took more than a month testing this system before sharing it and so far so good.
Auto Remote Passive Keyless Entry PKE Car + Button Start Smart System
http://r.ebay.com/OeTBLO
View attachment 828470103
I promise that tomorrow I'll give more detail they advance that will not have to touch control except to remote start. Greetings:BeerNice...Writeup please!!!
Really not finish today took more than a month testing this system before sharing it and so far so good.
Auto Remote Passive Keyless Entry PKE Car + Button Start Smart System
http://r.ebay.com/OeTBLO
Very cool!