What did you do to your LS today?

Isn't it almost impossible to steal the LS with the PATS? Surely someone did not want an LS so badly, they flat-bedded the thing out of there?
 
Define almost... With the right scan tool, you can program in a new set of keys in a little over ten minutes. Of course, you'd have to get those cut correctly or rip out the key lock in the car.
It seems more likely that they would have towed it off. We had a "tow company" here convicted of stealing cars and auctioning them off a while back.
 
flat bed or tow.
no column lock right?
so just mash the gear selector in drive and roll it away.
people stole tons of Escalades that way.
they'd roll em down the street into an alley and strip them.
 
...no column lock right?...

No steering wheel lock, but the gearshift does lock in park with the key out. Of course, if you know what to do and don't care about doing damage, it is easy to defeat. It's a shame it was a gen I. With a gen II, at least they would have to some effort to get the electronic parking brake released.
 
Hi!

Some engine bay cleaning.

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Got mine back from getting a brand new 0 mile engine (thanks again BigRig LS) put in it last week, I have been driving it back and forth to work putting some break in miles on her. Today I went and washed her up and went for a country drive and took a few pics. I Couldn't resist having a bit of fun while I had the back road to myself.

Here is what the engine sounded like before the swap. 165k miles and #4 Cylinder had a bad valve with 70 pounds of compression along with broken timing secondary chain tensioner and jumped timing.
https://youtu.be/W8BMYsGIHRY

And here is the New motor I got for $1080 American. I got it from a shop in Canada who bought it at an auction from a school Lincoln had donated it to.
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Now the pics from today
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uo_0huYd-lM

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thats one way to break it in

HAHAHAHA I'm sure it didn't hurt it any :D. Already has 504 miles on it and this is the only time I have gotten stupid with it, up till now its been just Cruising to work and a short road trip. I have been Making sure not to ride and a set rpm for long periods and no wide open throttle starts. That video was a little over half throttle just enough to get it to drop into 1rst gear got them spinning and let off the brakes and shifted through third before letting off. Oil is getting changed this weekend for some fresh engine break in oil for the next 1k miles then switching to Redline synthetic. Not really worried about the tires either as I can get 245/45/zr17 95w tires here locally for about 80 a piece. The fierce instinct 245/45 zr17 95w's on there now still have plenty of tread too.

I am just happy to have it back and running like new for less than half of what I was quoted to do a valve job on the old 165K mile engine.
 
Nice, did you do a 'before' burnout? The old engine almost sounded like a mild cam at idle, probably good for some spectacular sounds before it really let loose.
 
thats one way to break it in

I'll never forget my factory tour.... They put gas in the LS and drove it off the assembly line right onto a dyno. The driver proceeded to floor the loud pedal for something like a minute or two after which he drove it into the "departure" line.....

On a green engine?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
 
sure why not?
"break it in the way you intended to drive it" i hear many times.
and also, "slow break ins make for slow SHOs"
that car is probably still out cruising to and from the beauty shop and grocery store for some little old lady.
 
sure why not?
"break it in the way you intended to drive it" i hear many times.
and also, "slow break ins make for slow SHOs"
that car is probably still out cruising to and from the beauty shop and grocery store for some little old lady.

"That car"?????? They did it to ALL of them!!!!!
 
oh sweet. so clearly its a non issue as the overwhelming majority of LS's still have the original engine in them.
 
I finished up the rear rotors, flush, and braided brake hoses. I had to modify the crappy cube tool from Harbor Freight so the prongs had more space between them. I hit a speedbump in the form of a frozen caliper slide. Probably related to the warped rotor. Tomorrow I'll finish with the front hoses and flush.
 
Nice, did you do a 'before' burnout? The old engine almost sounded like a mild cam at idle, probably good for some spectacular sounds before it really let loose.

I did a few small burnouts, Nothing like the video above, before the old engine went belly up. After it went belly up in January I babied that thing until April 17th when I dropped it off for the swap.

And yes with the timing off the way it was it had a very lopey idle like a true muscle car and sounded like I had a custom camshaft made for it. If you could ignore the rattle/knock of the secondary chain slapping against the valve cover. So depending on your definition of "Spectacular sounds" it may well have.

Told my mechanic to get pics of the damage when he tears it apart I will post them up here. He is scavenging the old engine for useable parts such as alternator, water pump, power steering pump ETC... so I will have spares in the future.
 
LOL if that is the case my little half @$$ attempt at "being cool" surely didn't hurt it any.
 
I finished up the rear rotors, flush, and braided brake hoses. I had to modify the crappy cube tool from Harbor Freight so the prongs had more space between them. I hit a speedbump in the form of a frozen caliper slide. Probably related to the warped rotor. Tomorrow I'll finish with the front hoses and flush.

Yeah, most people don't realize that caliper hardware are wear items and should be replaced every time the brake pads are replaced. They might make it through two sets of pads, but then they might not. I replace all hardware every time I do a brake job, and can't remember the last time I had to deal with bad slides unless the car came with them when I bought it.
 
I actually saw you post the same idea in a brake thread so.ewhere, which is why I thankfully already had replacement slide pins (and matching caliper bslide bolts). If it wasn't for that, it would have taken a couple more days just to get the pins. I had to get the boots in the store though, barely. Rushed over to auto zone, close to closing, called them on the way to check the stock, and walked up. All 3/employees were at the locked door, waiting for me. You may think "how sweet" but in reality, I got there 8 minutes BEFORE closing, and they already locked up. Whatever, got what I needed.
 
Yeah, most people don't realize that caliper hardware are wear items and should be replaced every time the brake pads are replaced.

I have definitely noticed with most of the ford cars that I have owned, the biggest issue is the rubber boots tend to get ripped and thats when it all starts to go bad... after the last frozen pin on a ranger, I have always started replacing the boots every time and re lubing the pins, since that, haven't had a frozen pin in a good long while.


so at a bare minimum, replace the boots every single time, even if they are not starting to split...
 
so at a bare minimum, replace the boots every single time, even if they are not starting to split...

I'm not sure why I didn't order the boots at the same time. It worked out and, being a pack of 4, I went back and replaced the finished side's boots too, with another glop of grease.

Telco, do you go as far as replacing the regular bolts too? Or just sliding pins/pin bolts.

I finished the front hoses tonight. I have to say I'm not impressed... yet. I just rocked it back and forth in the driveway, so I'll hold judgement for a road test. It felt different, but I've been driving the Taurus for so long I don't remember what the LS used to feel like. Regardless, I'll consider it a pricey brake fluid flush in the least. My Taurus had a caliper lock up once because the brake hose clogged up, so I'll take it as cheap insurance. We'll see.
 
Telco, do you go as far as replacing the regular bolts too? Or just sliding pins/pin bolts.

Just the caliper slides, unless the bolts are showing signs of wear. I also don't turn rotors, I put on new rotors with new pads. Used to get them turned, but nobody does them worth a damn anymore and I usually wound up replacing rotors after a few months anyway due to warpage.

I do bed brakes in when new too, 2-3 stops almost to a complete stop from 20MPH, 30MPH, 40MPH and 50MPH. I generally don't have any problems with brakes after a job doing this.
 

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