What did you do to your LS today?

It may (or may not) have been mentioned as a failsafe, but not as a failsafe mode? (There are lots of failsafe features, including all the fuses for example.)

There is the cooling system failsafe mode (each cylinder is deactivated every other time), and there is ETC failsafe. There are, of course, several limp modes as well.
 
Yes, am aware of the many different possible initiated failsafe methods. Was thinking strictly ignition failure. I'm sure it's a play on words. I'll reread (when time allows) as already mentioned.

In the meantime, pull my finger?
 
Today, I finished replacing my radiator. I started the project on Monday. It was a real PITA! I was going to have it done at a shop but they wanted nearly $500 just for labor. I pulled it from the top and without jacking it up.
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She is bled, fed, and I'm nearly dead. I got my radio on, I got my pretty red goggles on, and I'm ready to go to bed!

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... It was a real PITA! I was going to have it done at a shop but they wanted nearly $500 just for labor. I pulled it from the top and without jacking it up...

Just for reference, you can pull it from the bottom just by driving up on ramps. There is plenty of room to tilt the radiator in and out that way. It looked to me like it would be (much?) more difficult to pull it out the top because of the parts of the radiator that stick out and the refrigerant pipes that are in the way.
 
BigRigLS
Thanks for the tips. Do you think the lower shield that goes from the bottom of the bumper cover the rad housing would effect it much on these cars. I know on some cars it could. Mine was gone when I bought it and the dealership could or wouldn't tell me if there is a difference between the LS one and the LSE. I would like to get one. It is running a tad lower on the temp gauge than it had before but I never thought about putting a scanner on it to check before now.
 
It's my experience that if one or more coils are completely not doing their jobs, on a restart one could still end up with a P0316, aka "Eng misfire detected on startup", this would happen within the first 1,000 revolutions, where one or more coils misfire to the point of outside it's specified tolarance by 2 or more percent.



Hmmmm?!?! ... sure about that Frank?
If a tensioner is split in the middle and no longer providing the upwards tension failing to take up the chain slack, you take that for a heavy WOT at highway speed and suddenly fully get off the peddle, that's it! ... that's all she wrote, the exhaust cam slows down dramatically and with not enough tension out of the secondary chain, she's jumped a tooth or two instantly before you could finish saying "Zues's butthole".


I thought/understood, that only during fail safe mode is/are the fuel injectors cut off. A misfiring coil would continue to cause raw unburned fuel dumped into the either or CATs.

The CEL will likely stay on, but it should go back to normal mode. When I first got my LS, it only had noticeable problems with the slight uphill/~50mph lugging problem. If I jumped on it, before I'd feel misfires, it would flash the CEL, start running rough, and turn the CEL solid, which I can now safely assume was the PCM disabling the relevant injector. I don't remember what the CEL did in my case upon restart because I frequently cleared the light just for funsies (I knew what the problem was and didn't drive it much before fixing it).


As for the timing chain jumping, I don't think it ever has that much slack. The intake cam is constantly turning the exhaust cam. The exhaust cam has no power on its own. I would imagine the drag from the bearings slow the cam faster than normal deceleration of the engine. Obviously, there are plenty of documented failures in which the chain had enough slack to jump, but there are also plenty of people who just kept driving before fixing/bricking it. And obviously, I'm not saying ignore it. I'm just saying I haven't seen anyone have sudden jumping with no audible warning.
 
Agreed, there should be plenty of marbles in a canned box noises prior to the dreaded grenade moment.
 
derives from driving from shop to shop with the question, what is this noise and how much to fix?
 
nice repair, now if you haven't had to fix your traction control button yet for doing the same thing, go ahead and make the repair now BEFORE it breaks!

When I saw this the other day, I thought hummmm, I never knew the traction button could have that problem.

It broke today on me. LOL!
 
When I saw this the other day, I thought hummmm, I never knew the traction button could have that problem.

It broke today on me. LOL!

You have surprisingly high spirits.

I ended up preemptively going after this failure today and, just as expected, I accidentally took the whole center stack apart to take on other projects. It just looked so easy to pull the rest of the parts. I have the TC/AT switch, arm rest/cupholders, and HVAC controls out of the car with only 10 screws removed!
 
You have surprisingly high spirits.

I ended up preemptively going after this failure today and, just as expected, I accidentally took the whole center stack apart to take on other projects. It just looked so easy to pull the rest of the parts. I have the TC/AT switch, arm rest/cupholders, and HVAC controls out of the car with only 10 screws removed!

Only because it could be worst. Thanksgiving I was pulling out the driveway bags packed. Already checked the car out for a 4 hour trip. Backed out, put car in D5, and ETC Failure comes on beeping.

To the auto parts store I go. 1 1/2 hours later, after a garage repair I'm on the road trip. I was not pissed. You know why? Cause it could have happened 2 hours down the road. It's a LS.
 
Had the black 04 LSE over for a safety, will have slip after the holidays, needs left outer ball joint.
Noises in the rear Uppers do not prevent a safety but they are getting done, as well as the end link and toe adjust linkages.

03 LS needs rear Uppers and toe adjust linkages. I have a remaining used left side UCA so it's going into the 03.

04 is getting fresh belt and pulleys, oil & filter, fuel filter and cabin filter.


Time to order some parts ...


Put the coil covers back on the 04 LSE, detailed the engine bay some further. Clay-bared it last night, Need to return to doing some more cleaning on it. Winter wax and such, interior glass needs to be cleaned. Trunk is getting sprayed.
 
... lower shield that goes from the bottom of the bumper cover the rad housing would effect it much on these cars ...

It should be present, would naturally be best, any car is designed to move air in around the fins of the radiator, when there is a large gaping hole due to some plastic missing, one would think there is a disturbance in the air flow, as much would escape down below. If it's contained as designed, it would correctly force it directly through the fins thus providing optimum cool down.

I would think.
 
@R34SklnNsn,

:: Suggestion :: have a look in between the front shroud and all in between the cooler and radiator. Over the years, some of us have found the strangest of items down there, myself on my 01 V8 Sport when I took possession of it, found an old partial torn up plastic bag with lots of dried up dirt mucked in between the radiator and cooler, had to rinse it wet to loosen it up and gently poke and pull it out of there, gave the entire rad a rinse and cleaned as best I could. You may have some crap down there blocking the fins, worth a look, anything over 200 and it's getting to a zone where it shouldn't be. over 220 and you risk starting to pop hoses and old deteriorated plastic cooling system parts. Not good.

I was really surprised how much trash was in between the radiator, oil cooler, and condenser. There were leaves, dead bees, and parts of old trees. It may be my imagination but, the a/c seems to be working better. I guess the trick is to spray it out once in a while. I still can't see how that mess gets in between there...it's not like there is an air dam directing the airflow through there.
 
\I still can't see how that mess gets in between there...it's not like there is an air dam directing the airflow through there.

That's exactly why it stays there. I just talks one perfect gust to blow one leaf (out of a hundred "eaten" each day) into the crevice. The lack of airflow prevents it from getting sucked out. Leave it unchecked for a couple thousand miles and you find all those individual winners that had just the right conditions have grouped together. It almost sounds like conception. The same concept applies to belly button lint. Most people don't actively stick cotton strands in there.

Also, 70mph air and tight, high pressure zones can get weird.
 
Ha ha, that's funny. I was thinking about the sperm and egg analogy too.
 
Just for reference, you can pull it from the bottom just by driving up on ramps. There is plenty of room to tilt the radiator in and out that way. It looked to me like it would be (much?) more difficult to pull it out the top because of the parts of the radiator that stick out and the refrigerant pipes that are in the way.
I was looking at the refrigerant pipes for a while. When you disconnect the canister it will fold down out of the way. The other pipe on the driver's side can be pulled aside too. I lowered the condenser and that made it a lot easier.
 
If you turn it off and back on again, it should "forget" about the misfire and give you all your cylinders. If you had no previous CEL/rough running warnings, then I wouldn't think you would completely "lose" a coil.

You should also have plenty of audible warning from failing tensioners. Even though tensioners will just snap, it isn't that easy for the chain to actually jump.
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So if you suddenly had a problem, I would assume the car simply detected a strong misfire and cut fuel to that cylinder.

I turned it off and restart, still have a strong miss and a fluctuate in Idle more apparent after warm up.

I did receive my ELM 327 WIFI today, need to download software for Android tablet I bought for this very reason. I did try the EasyOBDII software with my window 10 laptop and having connecting issues. Also Motorcraft COP's and new plugs arrived as well.

I can hear audible coming from front top passengers side, I know for a fact I will do a tear down of the chains and tensioners before running much further or longer.

Now I need to go back where we talking about this in a past thread (software) I don't mind paying for a decent interface.
 
Vacuumed out the floor boards on the 03 LS V8, scrubbed and washed the Loyd mats, installed some clear vapor barrier plastics up in around the peddles, held in place with some of that strong red vapor barrier tape. On the left foot rest also, relay-ed Loyd Mats along with some newly purchased dedicated winter pant saver mats on top.

She should be good to not make a salt stain mess of her 03 this winter, plan to do the same to my 04 LSE winter car tomorrow.

Keep that darn salty slush crap from settling into the rugs near, around and below the peddles.
 
Ugh ... sprayed the 04's trunk well last night with a spray on bedliner product and this morning after some overnight rain, I found a bit of standing water directly to the left side of the battery. Up and around the right side seal of the trunk, on the underneath feels damp. Forgot it was a Lincoln LS, always something. (and yes Telco, I did close the trunk lid for the night!)

Also busted the most right window dash vent on my wife's 03, was trying to tack it back in place due to broken clips and my thumb pushed right trough the plastic louvers. Brittle stuff when it gets old. ordering two new ones, other side was/is glue'd and crap as well.

... Just maybe, if I'd stop mucking with these things, they either wouldn't break or I wouldn't even notice. Any goods movies on TV today?
 
Ugh ... sprayed the 04's trunk well last night with a spray on bedliner product and this morning after some overnight rain, I found a bit of standing water directly to the left side of the battery. Up and around the right side seal of the trunk, on the underneath feels damp. Forgot it was a Lincoln LS, always something. (and yes Telco, I did close the trunk lid for the night!)

Also busted the most right window dash vent on my wife's 03, was trying to tack it back in place due to broken clips and my thumb pushed right trough the plastic louvers. Brittle stuff when it gets old. ordering two new ones, other side was/is glue'd and crap as well.

... Just maybe, if I'd stop mucking with these things, they either wouldn't break or I wouldn't even notice. Any goods movies on TV today?

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Ugh ... sprayed the 04's trunk well last night with a spray on bedliner product and this morning after some overnight rain, I found a bit of standing water directly to the left side of the battery. Up and around the right side seal of the trunk, on the underneath feels damp. Forgot it was a Lincoln LS, always something. (and yes Telco, I did close the trunk lid for the night!)

Also busted the most right window dash vent on my wife's 03, was trying to tack it back in place due to broken clips and my thumb pushed right trough the plastic louvers. Brittle stuff when it gets old. ordering two new ones, other side was/is glue'd and crap as well.

... Just maybe, if I'd stop mucking with these things, they either wouldn't break or I wouldn't even notice. Any goods movies on TV today?

Been there done that. Trying to fix one thing, break two other plastic pieces, instead. Go to fix those 2 and 2 more break. Go watch the football game.
 

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