What did you do to your LS today?

Kid_Lyrics said:
dealing with the speakers, are there wires involved such as stripping /cutting/crimping or are they just like the regular electrical connectors on the car?
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The factory speakers connect to a harness. You can order harness adapters to make new speakers a simple plug and play install.
 
I've recently completed my lighting work. I installed two headlight housings from eBay that were in better condition than mine, clearer/less haze. I went with a NAPA Safety Lite set of Hi/Lo bulbs that give off a yellow tint. Something different, I figured. Also, installed two JDM Star LEDs to upgrage my fog lights. That part is an H10 bulb, by the way, not the H11 that comes up on many search engines as the stock replacement size. My fogs are now bright white. There are two bright LED chips, one on each side, lining up vertically after the bulb twists in. So there is no frontal glare. There are bulbs you can buy that have side and front projectors, but i read a review of them producing too much glare. And I've adjusted them up, using the screw/spring adjustment on the side of the housing (as learned here). Before, they pointed way too low to be useful.

Having now removed and replaced two halogen headlight housings in my Gen II, I wonder if they suffer the same issue as the Gen I, in that the lens can't be separated from the housing other than to heat it up and then cut through the seal? I tried to take one of mine apart and couldn't make much progress, though everything else on the housing seems very functional. I did not heat it up in the oven first or put a heat gun on it. I removed the bulbs and let mine soak upside down with soapy water, then rinsed that out several times, then air dried. It would be nice if the lens came off, but I don't feel like cutting through a seal that stiff is a good idea, regardless of the fact that these get condensation in them. It seems like it would be difficult to recreate that bond.

At any rate, this finally completes a long wanted wish to update the rest of the front of my car. I painted the grille black with Krylon paint recently. I like black better than the ambivalent grey it had.
 
good ole clockspring. tomorrow is complete cooling system plastic part replacement, radiatior flush and last but not least, oil change.
 
Talked to a man about a price for fixing a small crack in my 04 LSE front bumper cover, (bought it like that) +delete plate holes and repaint. Including de-badge the rear trunk lid +polish. (can't get the very old dealer sticker off, have tried already.)


Taking her to the Casino tonight, gonna throw money around like a baller and do the Valet parking ... just to be like the cool kids! :p
 
Kid_Lyrics said:
And bought these in replacement of the other set I had
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Start soaking those seven Cross vehicle support bolts (item#1 qty7) with penetrating fluid now ...


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for when you go to replace your degas bottle ... they like to snap clean off.

... Don't take my word for it though! You can choose to find out the hard way also of course.

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Put all new cop coils on my 03 lincoln ls v8 Saturday and still getting p2106 so not sure what to do next and I have code p1744 anyone have any ideas please let me know
 
Crodgers03 said:
Put all new cop coils on my 03 lincoln ls v8 Saturday and still getting p2106 so not sure what to do next and I have code p1744 anyone have any ideas please let me know
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Did you use new Motorcraft coils? ("OE Identical" and other such nonsense does not count.)
Did you replace the spark plugs at exact same time?
Did you set the plug gaps to 1.0mm? (Even if the box said they were, often some of them are wrong.)

P1744 sounds like either your transmission solenoids are starting to fail, or your PCM has been damaged by running with bad coils for too long.
 
don-ohio said:
In my Ford manual for 04 LS POWER STEERING says on section 211-00- page 40, use MERCON or ATF, so I would say Mobil I synthetic ATF would be top-notch. Might be different for the Gen I ? don-ohio :)^)
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It's not different for the 1st gen. When Ford stopped making Mercon, they put out a TSB saying to switch to Mercon V. The 1st gen LS was specifically covered. Anyway, I doubt that Mobil 1 ATF is a problem, but I am certain that Mercon V is good.
 
Know who you are talking to Joe! Don't waste your time!
 
BigRigLS said:
GEN 1 Sport only, using the OEM brackets and obtaining the Jaguar Rein #XR819697 30mm bushings from FCparts
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Thanks for this tip. I ordered a couple of these today for my 2001 Getrag Sport. I pulled the sway bar over the weekend. Bushings didn't really LOOK bad. Be interesting to compare to these Jag ones when I get em. It was difficult to get the sway bar out but I was able to do it without dropping any control arms or shocks etc. Course the engine is already out of the car so that made it a little easier! Dont know HOW I'll be able to get to that top bushing bracket bolt on the passenger side when there's an engine in the way. I had to pull three hoses off the control valve just to find the bolt. Going to inspect to see if there's a way to get the control valve unbolted and moved out of the way for next time. I have another LS that needs a bushing job. Actually I have 2 other LSes now, but I may not do this job on both cause I still covet the engine in one of em for my MTX car. Such fun!
 
Thanks for the info.,Joe! Just like I supposed,Mobil I is okay. Mercon V is recommended because no more Mercon. The thing is,Joe,when a person mixes the Mercon that's IN the system with the Mercon V we're adding, it seems not to be very compatible.BUT adding the Mobil I ATF to Mercon is very compatible.
So should a person try to flush all the old Mercon out before they put in Mercon V? The book seems to say they are not supposed to be mixed. don-ohio :)^)
 
Let's see...........what did I do to my 03 LS V8 today? Drove it the 220 miles back from Indy with my Unpressurized system, running great as usual.
don-ohio :)^)
 
don-ohio said:
... The thing is,Joe,when a person mixes the Mercon that's IN the system with the Mercon V we're adding, it seems not to be very compatible.BUT adding the Mobil I ATF to Mercon is very compatible.
So should a person try to flush all the old Mercon out before they put in Mercon V? The book seems to say they are not supposed to be mixed. don-ohio :)^)
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Good to know. I guess this is another failure of Ford's engineers. They certainly believe and claim that it is compatible and will cause no problems. I guess I just got really lucky in the case of my Ranger's power steering. Maybe you could start a thread explaining all the other things that your years of schooling and experience have revealed to you that everyone else is doing wrong?
 
BigRigLS said:
... Still need to get an exhaust tone video clip done up.
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DeviLSh said:
this
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Hey Devin, I've been dragging my tail on this one. I have little to non of an excuse, it's all about time management and a 'never-ending-to-do' list when I come back home from my 5 day runs.

Anyhow, I've PM'ed you a link for a raw driving video which will end up as a portion in the final edit but for now wanted to share it with you.
When I get my other bits completed and the final edited video put together I'll present it as a whole and upload it to youTube.

link PM'ed
 
They sound great!!!!

no sh!tty music behind them this time!!! Let the video "speak" for itself!!
 
I have never really liked the factory Sport steering wheel. The leather covering is in near perfect shape, but the rim diameter is a bit too small and the factory leather is a bit too slick for my taste. Short of replacing the factory LS Sport steering wheel with say the FRPP #FR500 Mustang steering wheel with the embossed running stallion, I order a WheelSkin single color black leather wrap in the AXX size. I have installed these on four other cars in the past so the installation was straight forward and fairly easy. The results are a much improved feel and better grip.

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G-RELL said:
... no sh!tty music behind them this time!!! ...
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Haha ... I'll doctor it up just a tad. You know me.




Last night I took notice of this on the 04 LSE ... Hahaha ... the fun I tell ya, it just never stops!
Remember last week I said not to put the tools away just yet, if it's not OK it's not the end just yet!

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No worries, imma loosen the degas bottle cap, that'll fix it!
Nahhh! OEM parts from a salvage yard should last another 100k mi, I'm sure of it.
attachment.gif


:: Hello Fordparts.com!?!? [Open Wallet]



ps: Soul, I did not sample this automotive fluid but I bet it's sweet! :p

20160329_125517.jpg
 
Deaconblue said:
I have never really liked the factory Sport steering wheel. The leather covering is in near perfect shape, but the rim diameter is a bit too small and the factory leather is a bit too slick for my taste. Short of replacing the factory LS Sport steering wheel with say the FRPP #FR500 Mustang steering wheel with the embossed running stallion, I order a WheelSkin single color black leather wrap in the AXX size. I have installed these on four other cars in the past so the installation was straight forward and fairly easy. The results are a much improved feel and better grip.
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Pretty nice for a cover. I don't think I'd buy one for fun at $70 shipped, but definitely an option if my wheel starts getting worn out. I wonder how close their Charcoal matches my [probably] faded cahrcoal interior
 
BigRigLS said:
link PM'ed
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I don't know if you meant to send those links to me (though FDR is pretty far from G-Rell), but color me impressed. It seems to be on the bassy side like the Mina setup for S-type Rs. I like that.

... So what was that setup again? My... friend... wants to know.

Edit: StR/Mina for reference. Hard pulls start at 1:30

[video=youtube;CNYUkEk43S4]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CNYUkEk43S4[/video]
 
and here I though I was the only one getting PMs with sounds so good they have to be NSFW!
 
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