What did you do to your Mark VIII today?

I wonder why some cut out and some don't? Odd...

I just don't get it because mine had an old date of 10/92 on it and I thought sure it would be a good one; did Ford re-flash some EEC-IVs? Oh well, either I get another one, or a Quarterhorse.
 
I knew it. As soon as I said I figured out a trick to make my blend door work it would screw up again. This morning it was 58 degrees and I needed some heat so I put the climate control on 90. Waited...waited some more...still cold air. Dangit. Had to do the glove box trick again:( And it's been working so well for the last couple of weeks. Sprayed some more silicone lube on the little blue lever and hopefully that will loosen it up a bit. Maybe. We'll see. Other than that, besides all the other problems she's got, she's fine:rolleyes:
 
I knew it. As soon as I said I figured out a trick to make my blend door work it would screw up again. This morning it was 58 degrees and I needed some heat so I put the climate control on 90. Waited...waited some more...still cold air. Dangit. Had to do the glove box trick again:( And it's been working so well for the last couple of weeks. Sprayed some more silicone lube on the little blue lever and hopefully that will loosen it up a bit. Maybe. We'll see. Other than that, besides all the other problems she's got, she's fine:rolleyes:

When are you gonna get that thing down here so we can change that sucker out?
 
If you really feel like doing a blend door you are more than welcome to come do mine. Seems I never have time for my stuff anymore.

-Alan

PS: My passenger side door handle is broken too. If you are feeling generous ;)
 
If you really feel like doing a blend door you are more than welcome to come do mine. Seems I never have time for my stuff anymore.

-Alan

PS: My passenger side door handle is broken too. If you are feeling generous ;)

Bring it to Columbia. We can have that stuff done in a day...

Blend door, 2-3 hours.

door handle, 45 minutes or less.

Buy the blend door actuator, and bring it with you. I'm pretty sure I've got a black passenger handle too.
 
I have all the parts, its the time piece. I can't even seem to find time to get my block and rotating assembly to Atlanta so I can actually start putting my engine together.

-Alan
 
Havn't done much to my Mark today except for driving it.
God I love the thing even though it has it's flaws like bad transmission, cracked leather etc.
Also noticed something abit funny.
My Mark has gone 120k miles (passed 120k last week) and I found some old reciepts both from the US and Sweden.
12th of December 2004 it was serviced in the US and it had 113,047 miles on the odometer.
In 2008 (in sweden) it had 113,551 miles on the clock.
And now in 2012 it has 120,02x on it. And of those my father has done a couple of hundreds, I've done closer to 300.
Quite cool when you think of it. It's been a garage queen for almost all it's years in Sweden. The first gentleman who owned it (in sweden that is) died, another old man bought it from the widow just to be nice to her and then I bought it from him.
Too bad the car could be in better shape (interior wise). Poorly maintained leather and trashed head liner in the rear (I'm beliving alot of water got inside there and trashed it).

And on my trip an old gentleman came up to me while I was parked in a parking lot talking to a friend.
Apperently he had a Cadillac STS and was quite interested in the Lincoln :) That's why I love having odd cars, many people have lots of questions. Good way to meet people :)

Also I noticed the plastic interiors in american cars aren't the best for a subwoofer in the trunk. I'm gonna go crazy because of all the rattling!
 
I have been seriously thinking about that. But first I've got to get a new actuator. Can't afford it right now. As soon as I get one and can make some time on a weekend, I'll be there.:)

I've got the old one that came out of my 97...

It wasn't broken, I just decided to replace it with a reinforced one while I was replacing the heater core.

I had planned on keeping it "just in case" but whatever...
 
I have all the parts, its the time piece. I can't even seem to find time to get my block and rotating assembly to Atlanta so I can actually start putting my engine together.

-Alan

I see. I might be willing to drive to GA someday, but it would have to be worth my time. lol.

Seriously though, if you can get it to Columbia, we could have it done in a few hours. I've done 4 or 5 of them now. The last heater core/blend door actuator combo was finished in 4 hours. I had the blend door out in less than an hour, and then spent 2 hours fukking with the heater core hoses. :shifty:
Once we got the old core out, it was simple putting everything back together.
 
I've got the old one that came out of my 97...

It wasn't broken, I just decided to replace it with a reinforced one while I was replacing the heater core.

I had planned on keeping it "just in case" but whatever...

Aaahhhh! Cool. I'll check my schedule and PM you ASAP. I've never done one of these myself and don't really want to try to tackle it alone. I do appreciate the offer very much. I'll be in touch:)
 
I just need to know ahead of time so I can plan for that day. You can bring anything you have that needs to be done, and we'll see what all we can get to.
 
I just need to know ahead of time so I can plan for that day. You can bring anything you have that needs to be done, and we'll see what all we can get to.

Sounds good. I'll have to check to see if my wife has any weekends she's not on call and I'll get back with you as soon as possible.

Oh yeah! On a completely unrelated side note: Last Sunday when I was changing the rear brake pads on the Cobra I noticed something that totally blew my mind. I can't believe we've had this car a year and I had not noticed it. But I've never really gotten "under" the car except to change the oil. But get this: THE REAR SWAY BAR IS MISSING!!!!! I'm just about 99.999999% positive these cars had rear sway bars. And ours doesn't. WTF?!?!?!?! I wish I still had the phone number of the fella we bought the car from. But why the hell would anyone remove the sway bar? Thank God it still has the front one. The only reason I could think of would be that it was scraping the ground after the lowering springs were installed or something like that??? Now I've got to find a stinkin' sway bar for the Cobra on top of everything else I've got going on. Dammit I just want to shoot every vehicle we've got!!!!!
 
something arrive by ups today

my 4.10 came today, 126.49+ 14 shipping cant beat it
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2012-05-24215223.gif

trac loc should be a couple days $199.00:cool:
 
my 4.10 came today, 126.49+ 14 shipping cant beat it
trac loc should be a couple days $199.00:cool:

Sweet deal.



I cleaned up the floor mats I picked up yesterday. Still not sure why I picked them up.

Also soaked my new windshield since we havn't gotten any rain since it was installed. It's leak free now :D
 
Sweet deal.



I cleaned up the floor mats I picked up yesterday. Still not sure why I picked them up.

Also soaked my new windshield since we havn't gotten any rain since it was installed. It's leak free now :D

call me thick headed, but again i have to ask someone, the american air conversion, same as strutmasters, the actual strut itself, you can replace the innards with other stuff? in your case sensatracks inside. ive heard all kinds of stories from thunderbird sc is a direct bolt in to adaptors are needed, i know the rear suspensions are the same, or rather springs and shocks will fit. im already putting in cobra billsteins in the back ive heard tokico blues will fit in the front directly, but if i can put the sensatracs in the strut shell ill be happy changing the spring with eibachs when theyre out.tell me thats what yer doon huckleberry!:D
by the way, i quoted the wrong quote,sorry too many pain killers
 
Mine has been chillin in the garage for three days straight. Might go another two or three days without being moved. No, wait, it will have to come out tomorrow and drive about a 1/2 mile to get a trunk load of Mountain Dews.
 
Went with my Tuesday Night Meet crew up to USF Car Meets on campus, loads of cars, good times. The Mark was in the show just so I could park with my group and some older guys and even younger kids took some pics, I heard one kid say, "look dude a mark viii", the other kid, "those have the cobra engine right?". They took cell phone pics of the engine... I didn't correct them, I figured it was close enough.

I couldn't get pics of the show, my phone was dying, but the cruise up was fun. You can barely make out the front car: Just officially met the guy in the G37 in white, Nicole's Lancer in black, Bethany's Genesis in grey, Axle's is300 in black, and my (out of place) Mark VIII.
533085_10150845513526295_1882451675_n.jpg
 
call me thick headed, but again i have to ask someone, the american air conversion, same as strutmasters, the actual strut itself, you can replace the innards with other stuff? in your case sensatracks inside. ive heard all kinds of stories from thunderbird sc is a direct bolt in to adaptors are needed, i know the rear suspensions are the same, or rather springs and shocks will fit. im already putting in cobra billsteins in the back ive heard tokico blues will fit in the front directly, but if i can put the sensatracs in the strut shell ill be happy changing the spring with eibachs when theyre out.tell me thats what yer doon huckleberry!:D
by the way, i quoted the wrong quote,sorry too many pain killers

As far as I know yes. The conv kits are pretty much tbird parts. You can switch out the shock in the front struts akaik, that's what i'm going to do. The sensa's aren't a "perf "shock/strut(wtf you wanna call it). It's just better then what came on my 1.5" kit, which was the cheapest front shocks monroe makes(monromatic-?-)

You'd have to search for 97 t-bird struts to see whats available.

The rears you'll need a spring, top mounting perch and isolators. Search rear shocks and you'll come up with perf options.
 
Attempted to sensor lower my front suspension to match the rear. I drilled two new holes and moved the sensor brackets up about 1/4" and then moved the sensor mount up as high as it would go in the slot in the bracket. Unfortunately, it didn't lower it a bit:confused: I don't get it. I was expecting at least a half inch or more of lowering but it didn't move down at all. It's still too high in the front. And yes, the air ride switch was off during the adjustment process. I switched it back on when I was finished and it made no difference at all. I turned it on and off several times to no avail. Then I just gave up and drove it home from my parents' house. And it's still no lower than before. I guess she just doesn't want to be lowered:mad:
 
Attempted to sensor lower my front suspension to match the rear. I drilled two new holes and moved the sensor brackets up about 1/4" and then moved the sensor mount up as high as it would go in the slot in the bracket. Unfortunately, it didn't lower it a bit:confused: I don't get it. I was expecting at least a half inch or more of lowering but it didn't move down at all. It's still too high in the front. And yes, the air ride switch was off during the adjustment process. I switched it back on when I was finished and it made no difference at all. I turned it on and off several times to no avail. Then I just gave up and drove it home from my parents' house. And it's still no lower than before. I guess she just doesn't want to be lowered:mad:

Aren't your front air shocks Arnott's?
 
Attempted to sensor lower my front suspension to match the rear. I drilled two new holes and moved the sensor brackets up about 1/4" and then moved the sensor mount up as high as it would go in the slot in the bracket. Unfortunately, it didn't lower it a bit:confused

i did the same thing with my brackets, i also saw a very slight change in height. dunno whats up, haven't messed with it since.
 
Seems like I have read somewhere that the Arnott's don't sensor lower like the OEM air shocks will. I can't say for certain but I remember reading it somewhere a while back. I didn't drill at all but only raised mine almost as high as they would go and it dropped the front right where I like it to be. I still have a little space left to raise them up but I don't think it would amount to much. If I were to drill, I'm certain that the front would drop down pretty low.

Does anyone on here have Arnott's in the front and a Ray's Switch? Just wonder if they will go as low as the OEM's do...
 

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